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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    The rule of thumb with oil is to choose the narrowest viscosity range that meets your needs. The bigger the spread between the first and second number (ie. 5 vs. 30) the more additives the oil requires to keep that difference. Over time, the additives break down and the actual range diminishes. By this reasoning, 10W30 protects better than 5W30 over the relevant operating temperature range.

    Since 5W30 flows slighlty better at cold temperatures, it should protect better in colder climates. Also, it should work better with newer engines since the tolerances are tighter.

    Ken
  • I own a 97 outback limited which makes the same whistling noise you describe. I have not been able to figure it out yet, either. it's frustrating because it means that I HAVE to keep my radio turned up while driving, lest I lose my mind from the sound.
  • lspivalspiva Posts: 49
    IdahoDoug,
    There is no hard feelings. Thanks a lot for your advice. I just change the oil (last Monday) so there is no reason to check the oil level so soon again. I will try again in a few weeks by following your strategy.
    Leo
  • schizaschiza Posts: 31
    I noticed a strong gasoline smell this morning in the cabin. I opened the hood and it was coming from the engine bay. The smell has gone away. I've smelled gasoline from time to time before, but though it was coming from another car. I'm taking it in for service. has anyone else experienced this?
  • Leo,

    I hope this doesn't sound too harsh, but you still seem to be missing my point. Here is my point: Check the oil level after the first time the car is run when you've changed the oil. That way you know EXACTLY how much oil is in the engine before putting miles on it.

    As to the whistle. Open your hoods and look for a small box in the right rear of the engine bay labeled "FWD". Open it and put a fuse in the slot you see. Start the car and you're now operating in front wheel drive only. Go drive the car and see if the whistle is there. Since the rear differential is not getting any power, if the noise goes away, then it is either the rear drive shaft (unlikely), the rear diff (very likely) or a rear axle CV joint (somewhat less likely). If you're in a slippery area, take care as you do not have as much traction as normal and remove the fuse as soon as you've finished this test.

    IdahoDoug
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    looks like the Outback is popping her front crank seal, in good old fashioned Phase I style. Oil leaking arounf the front end, I don't see anything around the heads themselves but, feh, it is dark out. Drips coming from the front. SO we're headed for service tomorrow. We're still inside warranty on this one so I hope it qualifies as a "powertrain" issue.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I hope the front seal is covered. Did you change the belts recently? If you're going to get the front seal replaced, you might as well get a fresh t-belt in there.

    Ken
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    covered.
    Yea the belts are new :( I'll go ahead and get a t belt I suppose, the car has about 50k on it.
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    I haven't gotten tires for the GT yet, the leak is now critical (I was going to take care of it tomorrow and/or thursday). BUT Kirsten has a rehearsal and concert in Lancaster freakin' PA tomorrow, has to leave by 12:30pm. Ugh. The OB is out of the question, as that seal could strand her out there. The only solution I have time to execute is to get the auto-x Azenis I have mounted and balanced on the RS rims while we take the OB to the service dept. Then pick up the rims and bolt em onto the GT and hope it doesn't rain to hard tomorrow night. :( Stupid waiting till the last minute on this tire issue.
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    there's no question the crank and cam seals are part of the engine covered under the 5/60k powertrain warranty.

    and it's mileage and age; phaseII engines will do it also. they say the seal material has improved... feh.

    -Colin
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    I'll know how to deeal with Gruff Gus the service writer now.
  • Hi IdahoDoug, I never knew the Subaru can be set to run FWD only. I read the manual and did not find any thing about it. Would that save more gas for long trip if you set to FWD only?

    Luk
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,710
    I think that's to be used only in emergency situations, such as if you need to be towed, but a rollback tow vehicle is not available.

    Bob
  • No I don't think it will save any MPG as you're still obviously carrying the weight. There's some evidence that applying torque to all wheels actually saves gas by changing the shape of the contact patch. This also provides superior stability at speed. I categorically do NOT recommend a vehicle be driven this way other than for a brief test. I have done it myself for 170 miles and would do it again, but there are too many variables for this to be something I'd recommed to anyone. It's a great troubleshooting tool, however.

    IdahoDoug
  • lspivalspiva Posts: 49
    I got your point about oil level check. As soon as I changed oil I took car for a 30 miles freeway ride and then checked oil level the next morning. I now sure that the oil level is at appropriate level. The only thing that still confuses me is that one side of the oil dipstick has more oil on it than another and then on one side were oil level is lower the oil level is not shown as a horizontal line but more like "V" shape. So for now I set the lower point of "V" to full and will continue monitor the oil level every 2 weeks. Thanks for your advise and comments. Leo
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    That's right -- seals are covered under 5/60. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you, but at least Kirsten has alternative means of transportation. What are you going to do after you drop off the OB at the dealer?

    While the front cover and t-belt is off, how about the water pump? It's probably a little early, but it might make sense with a new t-belt in there.

    Ken
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Leo,

    Getting the uneven oil levels on both sides of the dipstick is fairly common with our Subaru engines. I always use the lower of the two readings as well.

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Been there, done that. The crank/cam seal on my wife's OB was replaced under warranty at 50-something. Replaced the timing belt as well and didn't have to pay for the labor on it. :-)

    -Dennis
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    Actually Ken, the KDWs that are on the RS rims will get her there fine it looks like. So I already did the swap this morning (and I have to say, as much as I like the stock GT rims, That extra .5" on the RS rims really looks great on the car, fills out the wells a bit more, and results in a proportionally nicer look).

    We're taking the OB in about a half hour, then she leaves for PA and I am car-less until late tonight.

    Then I gotta get tires. Still paralysed by the M+S / Summer indecision. Especially sice I haven't read exactly the most glowing reviews of any of the "summer" tires I can afford (712, ES100). May have to spring a little more cash and get those Proxxes or...aw hell, too many choices!! :)
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    Juice, I know you had this issue on the Mazda...outside axle boot is cracked on the 1994 Turbo Legacy. Has been for quite a while, 6-12 months. I'm about to get a new clutch and throwout bearing, and am wondering if I should just take care of this while I'm at it. Given how long it's been cracked, should I just let the thing fail completely (no signs of any damage at all right now) before I have it repaired? I think they quoted me somewhere in the $200's to repair the boot, and it's what, $500-700 for repairing the whole setup once it fails? What should I do? The grease gunked up my ABS sensor on that corner, too. I am very hesitant to replace it because I think it's over $200 as well. And if a dealer ever tells you your ABS doesn't work when the ABS light is on, tell them "BS". I had a panic stop situation in the rain a few weeks ago, and I'll guarantee you my ABS worked perfectly and allowed me to steer where I wanted to go. Everthing clunked just like it was supposed to, and the ABS light was blazing away.

    Jim
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,930
    If the Cv joint is not showing signs of distress I would replace the boot, why would you spend $700 to $800 when you don't have to.

    Cheers Pat.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    why spend $200+ if it may be close to failing since the boot has been broken for perhaps up to a year or more? Follow me?

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    the joint will fail without a good boot given enough time. you should've paid the $200 last year because if you do it now it's better than never but the joint could easily be ready to seize now...

    -Colin
  • I've got a 2001 S with 18,000 miles had a burning smell coming from my engine and exhaust. The engine never overheats, but the smell is always there. It seems particularly strong when going uphill, but I have also smelled it as soon as I turn on the engine. I've gone through a few tanks of gas (different brands), changed the oil & filter, flushed and changed the coolant, and checked teh Transmission fluid (it's OK). I've made an appointment to bring it in to my dealer, but anybody have an idea what might be causing it? Thanks, Happy New Year.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    As a vested interest in the well being of Jimmy's legacy... I'd say put the $200 into the boot now and then just add on $150 when you sell it to me :)

    hee hee

    Happy New Year.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    I didn't do it when the dealership told me about it because I was pissed at them. They had attempted to cheat me out of a few hundred dollars and I caught them at it. So, I didn't want to believe the price they were quoting me, and even had my doubts as to the validity of the supposed repair needed. I found the damaged boot myself about 4-6 months later. No question I should have done it asap.

    Jim
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    Loosh: I've had Dunlop SP Sport 5000s in the OEM size on the Forester for almost a week now. The Pilot Sport A/S were great in the slushy snow/ice but I took them offmore to save the wheels from exposure to abuse during the winter. I don't think the Dunlops are high performance enough for you but the Michelins might be, even though they cost about double the price of the Dunlops.

    Ed
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I just had mine flipped cause they were mounted backward. They handle much better now. :)

    -mike
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    paisan: These are fine so far but the difference b/n these and the 17" Michelins is night and day. The car feels 6" taller and a lot bouncier (is that a word?). That setup really transformed the Forester into a surprising good handler. On the plus side steering effort is lighter and noise is 'way down, quieter even than the old Geolandars.

    Ed
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