"No Start" Problems

mr_whiskers

OK, here is my issue.... :mad: I went out to my car one morning a week ago and as I turned the key I heard what I could swear was a crack sound when I turned the key. Then no power what so ever! I checked every fuse and all looked good. So I went in and made a call to the dealer and they told me it was prob a deap battery? So I went out and took the battery out and had it tested. the test came up as a good battery! When home confussed and called Mistubishi back and they said it had to be the battery. So I went back and just bought a new battery, even though the test showed my old one was still good? So to my surprise the new battery worked and the car started!! I was happy. Now it has been exactly 1 week and guess what the same thing just happened to me today! Went out to clean the car, I had power went inside came back out not an hour later and no power what so ever. I again I could swear I heard a crackling sound when I turned the key. I tried to jump the battery just to give me power to put my top up before dark but I can not even jump - no response - no power - all fuses are good? PLEASE HELP!! Do you think I have a short somewhere? :confuse: Thanks....

Mr_Shiftright

When you say "no power" does that include the headlights not working.

IF the headlights aren't working, then you have bad battery cables and the crack you heard was the arcing of the spark across the bad terminals.

If the headlights ARE working, then the battery and cables are not your problem.

From what you say, it really sounds like you have bad battery cables or connections or a bad GROUND cable, where the black cable from the battery attaches to the frame of the car.

hopeitlasts

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with 124,000 miles. I have not had many problems with it. Recently, and with no indication, my car would not start - it sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't. I have been doing some research - originally, I asked the mechanic to replace the crank sensor however, he said he was 100% sure that the car would not start if he did that. I had another mechanic look at it and now I'm really confused. One mechanic says it needs a new computer and a crank sensor, the second mechanic said that although the computer is not working it may not need to be replaced but it could be a connections somewhere and does not think I need a crank sensor but a harness wire. I don' t know which one is right. At this time I have paid for 3 tows and the car is at my home looking so sad - I really like my car and don't want to get rid of it. Should I have someone replace the cranks sensor even though the mechanic says he is 100% sure it won't start after that? or have the computer replaced (a check engine light never came on)?

Mr_Shiftright

First thing is to take it to a shop that doesn't guess with your checkbook but actually knows how to do methodical diagnosis. This isn't a Saturn V rocket, this is a '96 Jeep. Someone should know how to go from A to B to C and figure out your problem. Does it have spark? Has someone put a noid light on the injectors to test for pulse? What's the fuel pressure like?
If neither mechanic answers these questions, you are in the WRONG shop. Whenever I hear "let's replace the computer", that's a good sign to run like hell.

hopeitlasts

Thanks for your response-I was told by one mechanic that there he was not receiving anything from the fuel pressure and that Jeeps are known for needing the fuel pump replaced. I will take your advice - I just was not sure if I should take it to the dealer or go with one of these guys since the both said the dealer would probably try and replace the computer. It is hard finding a honest mechanic but I'll keep looking and make sure they can answer the questions you sent.

Mr_Shiftright

Fuel pump is probably right...or...if I recall correctly...your Jeep as a ribbon type filter right in the gas tank that also gets clogged up.

hopeitlasts

I'm new to this website but want you to know that you have been very helpful-I never knew this type of info was out there. Thanks again - I still am not sure if I will take it to the dealer or an ASE? mechanic but I will definitely look like I know what I am talking about with your advice:)

Mr_Shiftright

Well great. Come join us anytime, hopefully with a fixed car!

MrShiftright
Host

guera

Hey Guys, I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am, 4cylinder, 3 speed, Automatic. I am having problems getting my car started. I jumped off my boyfriends car with booster cables and after that my car won't start at all. I put in a new starter, battery, and neutral safety switch. I can't figure out what else it can be. I have lights and everything. When I put a screwdriver to the to posts on the starter, it wants to start but doesn't. I need help. I can't be without my car. Can someone help me please???????????? :confuse:

Thanks everyone in advance: Guera of Memphis

Mr_Shiftright

Not clear what you are saying here:

Are you saying:

When I turn the key nothing happens, no starter cranking. Car used to start fine before I umped it.

OR

When I turn the key nothing happens, no starter cranking. Car failed to start even before I umped it.

OR

When I turn the key the starter cranks but the engine won't fire

OR

The starter won't turn with the key but will turn when I bypass the starter relay with a screwdriver and still won't start

OR

I'm by-passing the relay and the starter cranks but the engine wont' start AND I've got the key turned on.

(car won't start with key off even if you bypass the starter relay and crank the engine).

teecee

I have an 89 rs with vats system. Battery went dead and now it wont start. It is giving a vats code. I have checked all the obvious things so please dont tell me its the key or broken wires. Theres no security light on. I've tried everything other than
dragging it to a dealership, god forbid, thats like handing someone a blank check. Any help would be greatly apperciated. By the way I did charge the battery and now it wont even crank.

earl3

Hi all Im back, Had filter and strainer changed also plugs, wires. Bought fuel pressure gauge and seems ok except a bit high pressure. Manual says 47lbs at crank I have55 and 48 while running. Cold and damp here today in Michigan and no start while cranking. Put pressure gauge on and no pressure so I get under car and tap on fuel filter and fuel pump harness connections and bottom of tank no change in pressure but after cranking again it starts and good pressure.Mechanic said regulator might be going bad but would allow to start.Im thinking a bad connection as the only way to get it to start is to tap on stated areas. I learnrd about expansion and contraction in the vinyl siding business and wonder if these connections are moving due to temp change, Alength of siding can expand an inch or so in warm weather and contract the same when cold. My next step is to unplug harness near tank to check fuel pump for voltage and ground and clean terminals. I was considering replacing temp actuated sensors but no codes ever show up.I know with this 2000 Alero a lot of electrical probs show up such as windows not closing and all sorts of lights coming on and off. these sensors are very sensitive such as trac, tire pressure, service light, etc. I have never had as much trouble with a car as trouble started around 40.000 mi. with wheel bearings. stalls on highway, turns out that was sock in tank was very small and only Alero had that type. I have lost faith in this car as it has left me stranded too many times and you can tell Im frustrated. When good mechanics cant help you what is a back yard dude like me to do as I have very limited funds. If I had it towed everytime it failed I would be broke. At this point I think I have traced it down after many hours of checking and I wonder if Im on the right trail. I have much respect for the modern mechanic as some of these cars are not stable and intermittant. Please give me some feedback as this car is causing way to much stress and I never know if I can make an appointment. Another post said he went out in the we hours to start his car so it would run in the AM, well I do the same and if that wont make you neurotic than what will. Thanks to all for your imput I think i'll replate my 88 lasabre, only time it died in 140.000 was when starter silonoid went out. I start it once a year to clear out the mice and snakes that make nests in it, HA!!

earl3

PS engine is 3400 v-6

rbair

I installed new starter and battery. still won't ingage when key turned. all accessories work but starter doesn't engage or crank? Could it be neutral switch?
If so how do I check.

rbair

Wipers don't work in intermittant but work fine in low and high settings. any troubleshooting hints woud be appreciated.

4camry96

140,000 Miles, 4 cylinders, 96 camry. I am in a very bad situation because my car has been sitting in the mechanic shop who has not been able to determine what is the problem for 3 days now (I spent 8 hours at the shop yesterday.)
At first, the car missed a lot during low speed acceleration. To save money, my mechanic replaced the distributor with a one from a junkyard for $140. It worked great for almost two weeks and the fuel consumption had significantly decreased. I was very happy until during the third week my car didn't start. I tried to press the gas right after starting to keep the rpm high, and it worked, Nevertheless, several days later it didn't start again and has been like that since then. The engine turns over and stops. The battery is brand new, all the spark plugs and wires have been replaced, timing and distributor has been checked, fuel pump pressure has been checked, ingniter card replaced, starter and all the fuses have been checked, engine oil sensor replaced with a brand new one, major tune up complete. About a year ago timing belt was replaced and it was checked again during this problem to make sure it is not skipping. About 3 years ago the radiator, water pump, and rotor + cap, have been changed. You name it, it has been done. I have taken care of this car better than some people take care of their own children,and yet this is what I get. I am going nuts because being a student I don't have the time and the money to continue this vicious cycle. I know that my mechanic is a good person and is not trying to lie to me. What I don't know is whether he is competent enough or whether the problem is indeed very complex. Now he is going to tow the car to a nearby gas station to hook up to a computer and find out what is going on.
Please help if you can.
Emil

87firebirdtech

Hi , I was reading your post about the no start problem. I to have an 87 firebird that is showing the exact same signs as your, but mine will turnover and try to crank. My son and I have already replaced the plugs, cap and rotor, plug wires, pickup coil in the distributor, fuel pressure regulator, new coil, and new ECM under the dash. I was told by another mechanic that if this didn't work, that changing the fuel injectors would probably take care of the problem. This is last resort for us, seeing how we now have to deal with the high cost if injectors. I'm hoping that somebody else has had this problem and knows another fix that hasn't been explored yet.

87firebirdtech

Have him check the MAP, MAS, sensors really good, and the ECM. A co-worker of mine had a similar problem with his chrysler and found a bad MAF sensor that was intermintently opening and an internally shorted ECM. The ECM checked good on the diags but had a bad input that kept the car from starting.

guera

What I was trying to say is this: When I turn the key nothing at all would happen. No sound of any kind, but when I use a screwdriver at the starter it wants to start but won't. It tries to but won't turn over.

Thanks for asking but I finally have it fixed. It was the Ignition switch. I appreciate the concern. Anyone who has a problem similar to the one I tried to explain. Try the Ignition first.

Thanks again
Guera

hopeitlasts

Just wanted to say that I found out the only thing wrong with my Jeep was it needed a new crank shaft sensor. I really learned alot in this forum and knew what to ask the mechanic to check for. So I didn't have to use mechanic 1, who wanted to replace the computer or mechanic 2, who was 100% that it would not start by simply replacing the crank shaft sensor. I found a good mechanic who thinks I might know what I am talking about by the questions I asked. Thanks much.

4camry96

Wow, is this a coincidence or what! My car was finally fixed a few hours ago. Thank god for the computer that indeed identified the same problem as you described - the cranking sensor (a magnet.) Nevertheless, this does not mean that most start up problems are caused by this sensor. I would strongly recommend a full computer check up before the mechanic replaces any parts (it's worth the $50.) If my mechanic wasn't so close and honest, I would certainly be broke by now after having my car worked on for three days. I learned that the distributor and the cranking sensor are directly related and one part can damage the other. I think that my previous damaged distributor had damaged the sensor. My mechanic was able to get me the sensor from the dealer by his low price - $97. However, the distributor can cost as much as $500-600 and it is a really good idea to buy it from a junkyard for about 100 bucks.

earl3

I have posted before with the Alero no start, anyway an old mechanic had similar problem and after chaging pumps and relays it turned out to be a bad ground or voltage drop. Has anyone had experience with checking the wiring and where and how would I begin. The reason I think its electrical is that if I thump the tank with or wiggle the fuel pump harnrss it will start up. The tank was out a few months ago to put a new sock on and I wonder if they pinched a wire or something. It is a 2000 with v-6 with 61.000 miles. It runs great when it starts. It seems to not want to start on cold, damp days. How do I check this out? Thanks

Kirstie_H

Got a pal with a late 90's Toyota 4Runner, automatic, suddenly the key won't turn to start it. He sprayed graphite yesterday, and nada. Opinions?

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

Mr_Shiftright

steering lock malfunction I would guess. Have him try to violently jiggle the steering wheel with both hands and try again. Might have to drill in there...gulp!

nforgang

i have a 1989 wrangler with the 4 cylinder, im having a problem starting it like its not getting fuel, i changed the pump and filters, the only way it will start is if i prime it by bumping the key. Any suggestions

zenoah

When am turning the switch to ignite the engine (esteem GL 1.6) the starter wont turn and I can clearly hear the solenoid movement. (The starter is new and properly connected )

But the big problem is, I dont have 1/2 time a clear 12v to properly activate the solenoid. Some time he start some time he not.

When I put the tester on the solenoid wire (when connected) during am starting, the voltage drop to 6 -8 v. If he's not connected I have 12v from wire. So what make the voltage drop ??If I jump it whit 12v right from battery he start each time. The starter is good but 12v suck.

If am using 12v from key switch to solenoid, the starter work great but I can start the engine when am on drive or reverse so this is not the solution and the cpu dont realy like it (many error message).

So the problem must be between the key switch and starter. I tried to follow the wire from the switch through the dash but its to crazy

So if u have any idea guy's, ill take all suggestion.

ladythor1199

We have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Jeep wouldn't start at all, all the gauges would "bounce" but would not keep connection. Checked the battery, big crack found. Replaced battery, attempted to start and now it will turn, but will not start. All lights work, no dimming. A "humming" sound comes from the glove box after attempting a key start. We can hear it try twice then quit. I can't get the gauges to tell me if the voltage is at proper amounts or not. Our gas and malfuction indicator light stays on, we are certain there is gas and we can't get the car to start so the malfuction light will reset itself since we replaced the battery. Obviously something else is wrong. Where do I even begin? I don't want to tow it to the dealership if all I have to do is replace a fuse or "flip a switch". Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!
Tulsa

ron3520

I have a 1995 Jeep GC Limited 4.0 6 cyl. Sometimes it will crank and fire up and die. When this happens, and there is no rhyme or reason to it's regularity, it must time-out from anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours before it will fire up and run. I read that there is a no-start feature built into the security system but I can't see what would trigger this event. It could happen again a day after or it might take a month to repeat. I have been living with this for a couple of years. I would like to sell it but couldn't do that to anyone. Can anyone help?

Ron

nissan2

I have a question regarding initial starting of this vehicle. I'd like to find out if anyone else has a problem with this.

When car is warm it starts right away, when cold it takes a while to start.

shill

I have a Fiero (21 years old, 46,000 miles, no previous problems) that has been in storage for the last 10 years. It was bought new in 1984 and was retired to the garage after driving the same car for 11 years became old. Recently I wanted to get the thing running again - might as well drive it sometimes, it isn't worth anything to sell. The items replaced include: fuel hoses, vacuum hoses, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, alternator and air conditioning drive belts. The gas tank was also drained and filled with new, the oil changed, and the coolant changed. The thing was running great - well, as good as iron duke ever did, so I decided to take it out on the real roads. After about a half hour of driving, I went to turn right and the car stalled, right in the middle of the turn - I figured I just wasn't smooth enough with the archaic clutch. I continued to try and start it, but it ran incredibly rough - no matter how far down the gas pedal was pushed, it wouldn't spin past 2,000 rpm and it always dropped down to 500 before dying. After trying to start the aged econobox for 10 minutes, I finally gave it up and called a tow truck. The Fiero is now back in the garage, where it will not run for more than 10 seconds. The fuel pump is confirmed to be working and the rest of the causes almost all relate to parts that have been replaced. Could the timing chain have slipped? Would a plugged catalytic converter stop a car from running entirely?

Any input is appreciated, thank you for your help!

earl3

Hi, I had a fiero same year 4 cyl. I let it sit for about a year and I never did get it going again. I had about 88.000 on it and checked compression and it was way low . As it ran all right when I parked it I didnt think it was that tired but it was, maybe rings were seized up or valves worn out. A compression check would tell you a lot at this point. I liked the car until I had both ball joints break going down the road. Never had a car do that but obviously this is very hazardous to ones health. I had to warn you in case you get it going to have those ball joints inspected cause they werent a strong point on them, I guess Im lucky to be around to tell this story. The body looked great when I sold it and i warned the guy as he was going to fix it up for his kid. Good luck and let us know whats up with it.

ron3520

It could very well be the converter. To test the converter you need to put a vacuum gage on one of the vacuum lines that attach to the intake manifold and start the engine and speed it up to around 2500 rpm. On a normal engine the vacuum should be around 19" of vacuum at idle and when you open the throttle the vacuum should drop momentarily and then increase to a steady number in the teens. If the converter is plugged the vacuum will drop when the engine is run at an rpm above idle until the engine dies because the exhaust can't get out of the combustion chamber. Give it a try even if you have to buy a cheap vacuum gage.

Ron

shill

earl3,

The compression check was done, as you suggested.(Fortunately?) the compression on all four cylinders is right where it should be. It's incredible that both ball joints would break at the same time...and you'd live to tell the story! As soon as it's up and running again, I'll get a check done on them - thank you for warning me.

Ron,

I don't think the converter is the problem (or it is severely clogged). I cannot even get the engine to stay on long enough to get a measurement.

I'm beginning to think it is fuel-related. It seems like once the key is returned to the "run" position, gas is no longer getting there. Currently investigating the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay, ECM (possibly fried?), and their wire harnesses. There was a little bit of a burning smell after it had been running for a while.

Thank you both for your suggestions!

ca770

My 2003 Suzuki Aerio has only 7000 miles, two weeks ago the engine developed a new problem - CHOKING on the first start in the morning. The RPM runs extremely low around 200-300, it feels that there is not enough fuel going into the engine. After choking for 5-10 seconds everything becomes normal. Last Sunday, the engine finally stalled (the "check engine" light did not come on) but started right away on the second attempt. I just got my car back today after 4 days in the dealership. They told me they cannot duplicate the problem, therefore, there is no problem with the car. They said the engine started normally each time and all of the readings were normal. However, they suggested me to use medium grade gas instead of premium. I did turn the ignition to the on position without turning it over for about 10 seconds before I started it, but it still choked. The ground effect (long plastic piece) on the passenger side was pulled off in order to do a little bit of body work. In stead of using the factory plastic screw a person in the body shop drilled an inch long metal screw in the rear passenger side near the bottom of the car in order to secure the ground effect piece. I asked a few people if there is a chance that he pouched a hole in the gas tank or the pressure line. What is wrong with the car? Thanks :sick:

solya

I have a 1990 Jeep/V6 and it seems to not want to start now and agian for no reason, it sounds like it wants to turn over but it won't, and usually a day or so latter it will start-any clue to cause of this, I was thinking maybe vapor lock as it seems to occur in warm weather but I am not sure how long that would last, and if it is how do I stop it? help!

earl3

You stated it wants to turn over but wont? I would take battery cales off and clean them to start and make sure they are tight, and how old is battery? let us know what happens

Kirstie_H

And if it sounds like it is just about to turn over but won't, spark plugs may be your answer. I had the same problem with my riding lawnmower this week - it wouldn't start. Changed the battery because it had been sitting awhile and seemed drained. Then it kept sounding like it was just about to catch, but wouldn't. Changed the spark plug and presto! Started in 2 seconds.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

carnewb

Hello, I bought a 1996 Caravan about a year ago and its been running pretty well ever since, nothing wrong with it except I had to change the steering pump a few months ago. Anyway, I drove the car yesterday without incident and It was running fine. This morning, the car turns on like normal but after about 30 seconds the car turns off and will not turn back on, no sounds or anything. All I see is that the oil light comes on when I turn the key. What people are telling me is that this might not be the oil at all and that I could have seriously damaged my car. In my haste this morning I left for work and didnt check the oil to confirm, but I remember changing the oil not too long ago. Wouldn't the car even try to turn on if it was just the oil? Its not the battery...Any ideas?

Kirstie_H

The oil light might just be coming on automatically - sometimes the lights come on when you turn the key, before the vehicle starts. You do need to check the oil, as it's always a good idea.

It could be the alternator. I had a car just flat-out die on me one day after running fine, and yup, that's what it was. If it's a '96 and the alternator hasn't been replaced, that'd be my first guess. (I'm not an expert)

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

bluzmon

I just worked on a friends Saturn (what a piece) she had spark, she had about a forth tank of fuel but it sounded like it was starving for fuel. After qualifying the fuel pressure and spark it seemed it must have moisture in the tank.

Then after I put some inhibitor in the gas and got it running it wouldn't start without a jump. So I've boiled it down to the starter silinoid, or the bushings in the starter motor.

By the way, I'm new here, I'm Bluzmon

bluzmon

The idiot lights come on before you start the car to check the the system. If they don't go off in within a few minutes of starting then I would check what ever it says is wrong.

If the battery is good and you know this, then the car would start to run only on the juice from the battery. If you had your lights on it would drain and start to chug. It wouldn't have enough amperage to power the ignition and fuel injection if it has it, and all the other things the secondary ignition system does on most cars made after 1980.

With the car running, if you can get it to start you could put a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter on the battery and check the voltage.

If it turns over at all then you need to check the voltage draw at the battery and the starter.

Kirstie_H

Welcome to the Forums, bluzmon, and thank you for posting a complete and thoughtful response! It sounds like you have some automotive expertise, at least way more than I do. Thanks for sharing, and we sure look forward to reading more from you.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

carnewb

Thanks for the replies everyone, Im pretty much an automotive newbie. I was worried because if that car ever craps out on me it'll be an absolute headache to get it fixed and then schedule the use of the 1 remaining car. This was the first time the car refused to turn on, or rather, turned on and then died. Strangely, about an hour after getting to work, I got a call saying the car was running fine and that the oil was fine. All i know is that this morning something went wrong. Could it be an electrical problem. Would anyone mind explaining what it might be in dumbified language (for me, the newbie)? Thanks

ca770

My 2003 Suzuki Aerio has only 7000 miles, two weeks ago the engine developed a new problem - CHOKING on the first start in the morning. The RPM runs extremely low around 200-300, it feels that there is not enough fuel going into the engine. After choking for 5-10 seconds everything becomes normal. Last Sunday, the engine finally stalled (the "check engine" light did not come on) but started right away on the second attempt. I just got my car back today after 4 days in the dealership. They told me they cannot duplicate the problem, therefore, there is no problem with the car. They said the engine started normally each time and all of the readings were normal. However, they suggested me to use medium grade 87 gas instead of premium 91. I did turn the ignition to the on position without turning it over for about 10 seconds before I started it, but it still choked. Tried one tank of 87 gasoline, still chokes.

ron3520

Define "it sounds like it wants to turn over but it won't". To me "turn over" means the starter engages and spins the engine over at the speed a starter normally does. Exactly what do you mean?

vmanno

My daughters car has the same issue. It turns over but does not get any gas. We let it sit for a few hours or a day and then it will start. Any ideas?

lepster

My 2002 Aztek will not start after the second or third stop when warmed up. For example, if I stop at one store it will start when I come out. If I do a second short trip while it is warm it won't start. It cranks just fine, it just doesn't start. If I keep cranking it, it won't start. If I let it sit for 10 to 30 minutes, it will start. I have followed the instructions in the manual for a flooded engine but that didn't work. I can smell gas, though, after cranking it for a while. Any thoughts?

alcan

Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and check for gas in the hose. If so, the regulator diaphragm is ruptured and requires regulator replacement.

zorbick

I've got a '76 chevy silverado halfton, 350 V8. The other day I replaced the starter(bendix would randomly not punch out, randomly stay stuck out). Once I put in the new starter and tightened everything up, I had no power. No power to anything in the truck, no lights, nothin'. I've checked every contact and ground I can find, and cleaned them all up. Battery is good, truck ran before I switched the starter so I don't think it's an alternator or distributor cap issue. I've checked the wire going from the starter to the starter relay: it's good. Ignition exciter cable is good. Fuses are all fine.
This is a good farmwork truck, so I'm not gonna let it go to the scrap so easily.
What am I missing here, guys?

Mr_Shiftright

Definitely battery or positive battery cable or ground cable. As an experiment you could take a known good battery from another vehicle and jump it to your battery. If nothing, attach the portable battery cables to YOUR permanent cables, if nothing remove your battery and disconnect your truck's battery cables on both ends and insert the donor battery and temporarily use the battery cables to hook up starter and ground. Be careful of sparks, fire, or cross-connecting anything.