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I email toyota directly about the tick and they replied that there are no TSB or any other notices but referred me to the dealer. We will see what the dealer has to say (I live just north of seattle). Thanks for all the insight.
Sorry I said DeWalt. I meant to say Delta! They make some pretty cool storage boxes.
I also pointed out the lousy finish on the cup holder and hazard light button. I posted here earlier that as soon as I drove the truck home, I could see that silver paint on black plastic on the cupholder, a flat surface smack in the middle of the cab, seems like a terrible choice of material for this piece. Mine is now pretty badly scratched and even the button on the hazard lights has worn to black plastic from using it probably 10 times. The cupholder is actually pitted from the bottom of a Diet Coke can touching it during night driving. (No, my fingers are not covered with sand paper and no, I don't slam the Coke can down.) This is just an awful design choice for these surfaces.
All will be replaced under warranty and I am now investigating what to do to protect the cupholder long term, as I don't really want to take it back in every three weeks. Considering clear plastic self-adhesive film or possibly a piece of thin stainless steel cut carefully to match. (Sometimes it helps to have a girlfriend who is a metalsmith.) Any other suggestions are welcome.
When will the first rebates likely appear?
Here's what happened- day 1 (two days ago)- My gas tank was really low and I allowed the car to ride on empty for a while. day 2 (yesterday)- I got the noname gas and only filled the tank halfway
day 3 (this morning)- last night it got real cold (below freezing) and I tried to start the car in the morning. It wouldn't start. Brake light, engine light and oil lights all came on. AAA started the car by jumpstarting it.
ALSO, my car is at 3,500 miles and I've been meaning to do the oil change.
Alot of things done wrong, I KNOW If anybody knows what happened, if my battery died first or if it was frozen lines, I'd be grateful for the enlightenment.
B
http://www.toyota.com/about/news/manufacturing/2002/09/20-1-mexic- o.html
Now, I'm not sure if that was a line of crap or not, but I talked to them anyway, because they seemed to know more than my other person at the other dealership. Anyway, they checked the incoming inventory, and had the exact truck I wanted (minus the 6 disc changer option), except it was silver. Silver was my second choice, so I decided to go with that. Anyway, you might post what FACTORY options you ordered, and see if anyone has gotten a truck with that on it. If you got an invoice print out, the factory options are marked with F in the left most column, whereas, port options are marked with a P.
If you can't get your person to talk to you, go elsewhere. If you make a deposit, use a credit card (you can dispute the charge if you go with someone else), or put a stop payment on your check, but make sure your bank does it if the check is cashed as a paper check, or electronically.
This option package is tough to find. I am glad to finally have it!
By the way...Mine was built in Fremont, CA
thanks
Nope, I don't think the credit card company would have any problems with what you want to do. Just tell them the story about what is going on, and tell them that you had to go somewhere else, because you weren't getting anywhere with the other dealer. (I basically said the same thing when I called to put a stop payment on my check.)
Anyway, just make sure you don't make a habit of doing this, or the credit card company may not be willing to work with you. If it's your first or second time, then it shouldn't be a problem. You also have to usually dispute the charge 30 days after getting your statement with the charge on it, or it may be 30 days after the charge is placed, I'm not sure. They are probably all different, some may allow 60 days.
The other bad thing about a check, is that most banks charge you a fee, such as $25 to put a stop payment on it, and, it's not guaranteed to stop them from cashing it (if they electronically cash the check, with a different name than what you had put on the check, it can still possibly go thru).
Someone asked about "premium" gas. NOPE..you don't have to use it. It's a waste of money. You do want to put the mid-grade gas in, though, because the Toyota engines run better on it than the lower-octane. If you live in a high-cost gas area, I'd try the lower stuff, at first, and just see how it runs.
For those of you who "ordered" a Tacoma, be advised they are the HOTTEST thing out, right now, and most dealers are actually marking a higher price on them with NO haggling because the demand is so high. If you ordered one, at a fixed cost, I'd bet they are getting it in and selling it without even calling. (My dealership sold 4 in 2 days without ANY advertisements or incentives and at a mark-up!)
EngineerBoo
Now, when you tried to start it, did you keep trying and trying? That would, definitely, kill your battery. (Especially when it's cold because batteries don't have as much of a charge in the cold...take a flashlight outside when it's really cold and you'll see the bulb getting dimmer and dimmer after a few minutes.)
3,500 oil change? Unless you drive a lot of off-road or always in the city, you can go 5,000 miles or 6 months (whichever comes first) before an oil change. Of course, I've always changed my own oil in my vehicles and I don't go longer than 3,000 but that's just because I keep my vehicles for 15+ years.
Hint: Always use MOBILE ONE Synthetic oil in your cars. They will run better, last longer, and you'll get better gas mileage, guaranteed! (It costs more but you REALLY could go 5,000 miles with synthetic oil because it doesn't break down like regular oil.) Not convinced? Do an oil change at 3,000 miles and notice how BLACK the old oil is. Switch to synthetic and (after a couple times to get all the old crap out) do the same test after driving 5,000 miles...you'll be shocked at how clean even the dirty oil looks compared to before! And that's inside your expensive engine....
You sound like you might be a dealer. I apologize for that insult if I'm wrong. I'm quite familiar with the inventory here in the Southwest and it's not moving fast like you say, so lets not give people the impression that deals are not to be had, because they are discounting at the moment. This is not the prius.
I'm a software engineer with Northrop Grumman out at the Missile Defense Agency at Schriever AFB, Colorado.
The only truck I've own is a hand-me-down Ford F-250 from my Dad and it was rusted out so I didn't modify it in any way. I want to do a lot to this truck so I'll be asking y'all what's the best way to upgrade it. (Nothing major, like engine stuff, but cosmetic stuff like a good truck bed cap, runners, a moon roof, etc.)
Have the little glovebox "swirl" but that's it. No other problems. Paint is fine (but again, only 600 miles total on her).
Filled up today and with a mostly city, some hwy mix, I got 20.5 MPG. Not too impressive, but the engine is still breaking in. So we'll see.
When I first contacted the dealer I bought the truck from I didn't ask for the VIP alarm because I didn't want to pay almost $500 for it. He gave me a quote for a truck without the alarm on it. When I told him to locate a truck for me the only truck he could find with the options I wanted had the alarm on it so he threw that in for no extra charge! The deal was all done over the internet and email and the paperwork was ready to go when I got there so it made it really easy!
I live in NC but bought the truck in VA!
BTW, I had something making noise in the back which I thought was the dreaded suspension noise. But I put the two rear seatbelts into their clips and haven't heard the sound. Granted I only have a handful of miles on it, but I'm crossing my fingers that that's it.
At first, when I went to talk to a salesperson about them (in Nov./Dec. time frame), they told me that these things were really hard to come by, and that they were in really high demand, and that they wouldn't be able to drop the price much below MSRP. Well, I wasn't there to buy in the first place, but ended up being there for 2 hours, and they basically had me down to $500 over invoice, on the truck I wanted then, and I still left (should have taken that deal!). Don't believe the crap they tell you about being in such high demand. Start to deal with them, then say your leaving... they will come down. It's all a mind game.
hobo. You only get one or the other, limited slip diff, or the locking diff, not both. Sounds like you have the limited slip diff.
According to the brochure, SR5 #8 comes with the limited slip. The only package that comes with the locking diff is TRD Off-Road #'s 1 & 2, not only that, but the locking diff (or the TRD Off-Road packages for that matter) cannot come on a long bed truck. (There is no dot on the TRD Off-Road packages next to the Long Bed Truck.)
Limited slip, on the other hand, can be used all the time, as it senses when one wheel is slipping, stops that wheel, and starts moving the wheel that isn't moving.
EDIT>>>
A good place to read up on differentials, and how they work...
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
Mine, also, has the skid plate and I've got 75 mph on I-25 with no shimmy at all.
If there were a problem, I'm sure they wouldn't've sold me mine but let us know if you hear anything more.
Rick
Has anybody found out from the dealer where it is leaking at? Is there a TSB out on it yet?
Mine is leaking onto the drivers side.
Thanks
I need to move ladders enough that I want the 2 piece rack that is on one side of the truck and holds a couple of ladders so I dont have to lay them on the roof and tailgate.
I looked in the bed and the electric plug seems to preclude anything on the passenger side but I couldn't get any info from the dealer on installation, availability or if the composite would be damaged etc.
Thanks
At my job site, when people started getting GSM phones, all of the sudden we had a lot of reports of bad PC speakers.....because of the noise much like I suspect you guys are having. Only solution is to either turn off the phone or turn off the stereo. Just to be clear, the GSM phones would do this to any car stereo system as long as it is on.