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1- Making sure you have your radio code, remove the Backup/Radio fuse in your engine compartment fuse box. Re-install after 2 minutes. Close the hood.
2- Making sure no electrical items are on, even the dome light, start the car and rev between 2k-3k rpm until the fan comes on once. Let it idle until the fan comes one the second time.
3- Let the car idle for another 10 minutes after the second fan cycle and you're done!
It never says to idle until the fan comes on, only that you should bring the engine up to temp, that's when the computer switches out of open loop and starts to "learn".
I respectfully disagree!
Step 36 simply says to start the engine, then check some things. It says nothing about revving the engine to 2k-3k until warm.
Step 37 says:-- 37. "Do the idle learn procedure (the engine should be warmed up and idling from step 36, and the cooling fans should have already cycled twice):
It never says to idle until the fan comes on
It does say in 36 to start the engine. That infers to simply start the engine. If they wanted to rev the engine, I believe they would have said so. In 37 it says the engine should be warmed up and idling from step 36.
Start the engine///should be warmed up and idling seem pretty straight forward to me!
It is called the "IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE"! Leads me to believe the procedure should be done from start to finish at idle.
But, what the heck, it is your car!
Kip
8.889 gallons
37.495 MPG. This is my best so far. just went over 4000 miles. 95% AC. Sport AT. 80% highway.
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc) are off.
2. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 F (90 C).
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle closed. (NOTE: if the fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.)
Where:
ECM = Engine control Module
DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code
HDS = Honda Diagnostic System
PCM = Powertrain Control Module
So... now we have yet another version of how it should be done!
boatfloyd
That may work like a charm!
I"m not any kind of expert on this. Therefore, I will use HONDAS' version! They should know how they want it done.
And I will start with a cold engine!
In step 37 it says the engine should be warmed up and idling from step 36.
That leads me to believe the engine was cold and was warmed up during step 36.
For all I know it may be OK to come sliding in the driveway with a hot engine, Jump out and pull/push the fuse, start the engine, and run until 2nd fan cycle. That would be 3-5 minutes, as the first cycle would likely take place as soon as the hot engine was started.
I guess this comes from being an Old Goat! Today, August 18 I turned 65.
I've been turning wrenches since I was 8 or 9 years old. It started with the Paper Route Bike and continued through countless cars and motorcycles. In my spare time I managed to turn wrenches for IBM for 30 years.
I learned that impatience can be very costly. I learned that following the book will work 99% of the time. Not following the book can result in failure. Sometimes we don't know of those failures until later.
What would be wrong with coming home from where ever you have been and take the battery loose for a few minutes. The next morning, go out and crank the cold car. Go back in the house and get ready for work or whatever. In 35 minutes or so go outside with a cup of coffee and watch or listen for the cooling fans to cycle. Once the engine is hot they will cycle every 5 minutes or so. After you witness the 2nd cycle find something to do for 10 minutes. Then shut the engine off.
For all you know the fans may have cycles several times before you got outside. Shouldn't matter. You will know they cycled at least twice and had at least 10 minutes of extra run time.
Total time you actually spent with the car that morning is a few seconds to start it, a maximum time of maybe 10 minutes to watch/listen to the fans, and another few seconds to shut it off. The radio and window auto can be reset on your way to work.
If I can't find 10-11 minutes to do something according to mfg recommendations, I am too busy!!!
Kip
So my point is, when it says "bring up to normal temp" or "until fan starts", you can safely assume revving is OK. It is what happens when the computer starts to run closed-loop, which is after the engine is up to temp.
If I am not mistaken, dewaltdakota is referring to the large, gray "2007 Service Manual" from Helm, that you could order from the back of the Fit owner's manual. I also have that book, and while Helm is the printer, it is "Published by Honda Motor Co., Ltd"...so technically it is Honda's version as well.
I always thought these were the manuals the service people used, as they are insanely in-depth...355 pages on the automatic transmission alone!
Ziggy1
hungarian83,
From what you guys are saying, I can't argue with your logic.
However, (of course) the Honda technical "GET READY" guide mentions nothing about revving the engine during the IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE. I believe it was dewaltdakota that mentioned movement in the tachometer while the Learning process was going on.
Therefore this question keeps bugging me. IS IT POSSIBLE
that the folks that are getting the poor mileage had the procedure done according to the revving HELM method and those with expected mileage were done the idle till warm method?
We have already seen improvements in mileage from at least 1 person that did it the IDLE way!
I suppose the only way to prove or disprove this discussion would be for someone that is getting poor mileage to do it from both methods and see is there is any difference. Or if someone that did the Idle way, and got improvements, would be willing to go back and do it according to Helm and see if anything changes.
What do you think?
Thanks.
Kip
Until we see an improvement (or lack of) from the Honda-Helm method, we won't know for sure. I have received a total average of 34.2 mpg for my car with two tanks above 40. Maybe I should ask the dealer which method they used for my car when it comes time for my oil change.
i dont drive really fast or use the a/c that often, will update on the next tank
i'm reluctant to try the idle learn process until fully breaking in the car as idling for long periods of time can hurt the engine
The idle learn procedure is supposed to be done at the dealership on the brand new cars before the customers take delivery.
Therefore, you are not going to hurt it as you now have a few miles on it!
Kip
I personally drove a 1.5 liter CVT AWD Fit (wish we could have this trim in the U.S.!) that I rented for a day in Japan. This trim was rated 18.0km/L (approx. 42.6MPG), but after driving all day and emptying the tank, I only got about 11km/L or about 26MPG. I do grant that my driving took this Fit anywhere from city stop-n'-go to steep mountain roads and back, and considering the condition, even 26MPG was a good number. But it wasn't 42.6 or anywhere near the official figure.
I am not knocking the Fit by mentioning the above. What I am basically trying to say is that in Japan this kind of mileage discrepancy is quite well-known, and yet the Fit sells very well. I think that people there just don't put all that much weight on the official figures and look instead at the car's true attributes, including a decent if not eye-popping real world mileage.
Of course, it doesn't hurt that in Japan you can fairly easily knock $1,500 or more off the Fit's MSRP due to stiff competition.
I have always thought the figures for the 10-15 Mode seemed to be too high...I just haven't had a chance to visit Japan and personally prove it. :P
What I find interesting is "the discrepancy between the official figures and the real world ones is particularly significant with the Fit, when compared with other cars." For me, the Fit is the first car (which I have driven for an extended period of time) in which I am able to actually keep my total average mileage in between the goverment estimates with my less-than-conservative driving style. I have always been able to get a few tanks here or there on other cars that exceed the estimates, but never a running average.
As for getting $1500 off, I am not surprised for a model that has been out for over 5 years!
As to why there seems to be a particularly significant gap between the Fit's published 10-15 mode figures and the real world mileage in Japan, I speculate that something in the testing mode happens to match the Fit's engine characteristics very well, and thus producing favorable results. But since the testing mode is not realistic (30% off in real world is very common), the Fit owners tend to notice the big difference from the published mileage. Or so I think.
I don't know about traffic in Japan, but I can relate to traffic in Hong Kong. With my 100% constant stop and go, I'm looking at a 25 MPG average, which jives quite close to what you experienced.
Any suggustions or opinions
how are the performance gains btw
My driving in Japan was a little different in that I was in a busy downtown area at the beginning of the day, and then took the Fit from the sea level to about 1,000m in altitude up on a very steep, windy AND congested mountain road. I then came down and got on a highway on which I could finally average 40 mph or so (before that, I was doing more like 15 to 20 mph). Finally, I was back in downtown at night. So I think that I did challenge this particular Fit, and getting 26MPH out of it was pretty decent. You have to also remember that this was an all-wheel drive Fit as well, which further ate into the mileage.
Downtown Vancouver traffic isn't as bad as Central/TST by any means - my trip to work is similar to the Kowloon Tong to Mong kok journey (starts off relatively light in the residential areas, gets heavier as you reach the city centre). My last fillup yesterday netted me 25 MPG (US Gallons)
Never drove in Hong Kong really, I mean really, who drives there? :P (as an aside, I laugh at the people who want to rent a car in Hong Kong on a holiday - boy are they in for a shock)
I wait for a shuttle bus for 10 minutes maximum (as it comes every 5-10 minutes), then it's airconditioned train systems to most of the major areas anyway.
Not that you'd want to rent with the 100% stop/go traffic and $5+ per gallon gas, in addition to the 90 USD rental fee...
I've followed this discussion avidly as our AT Sport (bought April 20, the first day) has consistently disappointed on milage (26 - 28 in small town driving.) Just once in 2,000 miles we got 32, and that tank was mostly highway.
The dealer checked it but frankly didn't seem very interested in our situation, advised us to wait another 1,000 miles which have now accumulated. The last tank was 22 m.p.g. which is certainly going the wrong direction!
Adding insult to injury, our neighbor directly across the street bought the AT Base and right from the get-go has been in the 33 - 38 range. His driving mix is quite similiar to ours around this little burg.
Anyhow, concerned about my non-techo ability, I asked the dealer to do the ILP today. He was dubious but I printed out some excerpts from this list and he said he'd do it.
They made a big deal out of making it a "Special Courtesy" at no cost.
This was just today - obviously I haven't checked milage. BUT was piqued my interest - if not skepticism - was I found when I drove it home not only the clock set - but all the radio stations presets were correctly set.
Am I wrong? If he did the ILP correctly wouldn't those presets have been lost? Did he just blow me off and do nothing? Before I call him with some irritation, I'd like to confirm if the presets should have been lost (we can assume they did not have someone meticuously notate each one of my wife's favorite stations and reprogram them!)
Thanks!
to properly do the ILP you need to erase anything the ecu has "learned" so far, and disconnecting the battery is the easiest way to do so
Disconnecting the battery should have killed the radio settings as well as causing it to call for a code before it will even operate.
The clock will now be wrong!
It will also disable the Drivers "AUTO" window function.
All those things are easily reset by the owner.
If the dealer seemed not interested, chances are good that they would not have taken the time and patience to reset all your radio stations. They may have simply made the car disappear for a while to pacify another cranky customer. :mad:
If this next tank doesn't show a marked improvement , do the ILP yourself. How hard can it be to:
Start with a cold engine!
1.turn off all accessories. AC,radio,lights, etc..
2.disconnect the battery negative (black) cable for 5 minutes, then re connect.
3.Turn on the switch for a few seconds, then start the car.
4.Let it idle for 20-30 minutes, while you do something else.
5.Go back to the car and listen/watch for the cooling fans to cycle twice.
6.Find something to do for 10-12 minutes.
7.Turn off the engine for a few seconds.
8.Re start the engine.
9.Reset the radio, window, and clock.
10.Your wife can reset her stations while y'all go somewhere.
Some of the other methods discussed on this thread may work. This one definitely will!
Then enjoy better mileage while you visit your dealers service manager and general manager. If the owner is there, bend his ear also.
"Sometime the only way to stop people from hurting you is to hurt them more" !
Kip
I submitted yesterday's post wondering if my dealer blew me off when they claimed to reset my car with the Idle Learn procedure. I posted the fact my radio and clock settings were fine afterward and that didn't make sense if battery disconnect was part of the procedure.
So I spoke to the service writer and technician and they stupidly said they just let the car idle and did nothing else! What the HECK would that be good for?
I'm disgusted with them and am ending my relationship with them (after purchasing 6 Hondas) - they've become a bad dealership.
To add insult, when I explained to the technician I understood battery disconnect was essential so that the erroneous idle setting would "disappear" in the IC computer and new ones would be learned, he said "Oh, you can do that yourself!"
Yeah - then why did I take it in? Never mind. The one point he said to me is that you need to disconnect both Negative and Positive battery cables and touch them together for a few seconds to properly "erase" the settings.
Is that right - or can I simply disconnect the Negative terminal cable (if so, for how long?)to start the procedure?
Thanks!
Andrew
That is hard to say!
I like them to sit long enough that the heavier metal parts on the engine feel as cool as the fender when the car is sitting in the shade.
First thing in the morning after the car has sat all night is when I usually do it.
It can be idling while I drink down a pot of coffee and wonder why I'm up!
Kip
I don't think touching the two battery cables will do anything for you. Some of the other posters have just taken the Black Negative cable loose for 5-10 minutes and are having good results.
According to the instructions, one of several fuses being pulled and re plugged will give the same result. I just don't do fuses well and the battery cable is just so easy to get to.
If it were me in your position, I would talk to the service manager, the General manager and the Owner and let them know why a good customer is looking for a dealer that cares. Keep extra good eye contact and talk in a low voice so that they have to concentrate to hear you.
I would also contact Honda Corporate and give them names of every one you talk to and their comments. Give dates and conversations while it is still fresh on your mind.
They may not think this is as funny or as trivial as the tech and service writers apparently do. Don't add or subtract from the story. Just tell it like it is.
When you are talking to those 3 people at the dealership advise them that you are going to contact Honda. They probably won't laugh either.
Kip
The dealer can reset the computers without disconnecting the battery, so if they did it using their diagnostic computer, you would not loose your radio because it would never have been disconnected from power.
The comment that you must remove both battery wires and connect them together to reset computers: Makes No Sense.
You may mean that the Fit's switchover occurs at 3,000RPM specifically, I just wanted to clear up for other readers that VTEC has different switchover RPMs, and now with i-VTEC, it is even more variable than one particular RPM level, but instead it's more continuously variable (correct me if I'm wrong on this, please!).
Picked up on August 1st, have driven 1600 miles now.
Best tank: 38.74 MPG
Worse tank: 36.33 MPG
I am ok with 36-39 MPG. I can only hope that as the engine accumulates more miles that I can break the 40 MPG ceiling.
Details: Fit Sport 5 speed Manual
Typical driving: mostly commuting (26 miles to and from work) speeds ranging from stop and go to 30-70 MPH depending on traffic. Also city driving with lots of stop and go.
Upshift typically at 2000 to 2500 RPM unless needing to get on it entering a highway.
Fuel type: 87 octane regular unleaded, 10% ethanol mix. Minnesota is going to be increasing this to 20% in 5 years.
A/C used whenever needed (usally on way home from work in the afternoon).
We did not happen to buy the car from the local dealer, (they did not have the color we wanted the day the came out,) so I don’t know if they were simply blowing us off or incompetent - or both.
So I did the ILP today with some hesitation – I’m not a natural at this. I let the car sit in the driveway for 3 hours (it had run for only 5 minutes this morning.) For me just disconnecting the negative terminal was tricky and it was very difficult to get it solidly retightened.
I reconnecting the battery after 10 minutes and I started the car. The air temp was about 86 degrees but within seconds the cooling fan came on. It continued to cycle on for 30 – 60 seconds and then just shut off for only a minute or minute and a half. I don’t know if that is normal in this temperature – but it was quite different than the 5 or 10 minute range I thought it could run without the fan on. This made me nervous, was it (a) really doing an ILP, and (b) if so, was it doing it correctly?
Obviously I just did this today – so we won’t have MPG results for a week or more, but the rapid fan cycling gave me the feeling perhaps an idle re-learn was not happening.
I called two Honda dealers about this afterwards, both were dubious about the ILP making any difference. The dealer I bought the car from emphatically stated the reprogramming could only be done when the car was hooked up to a laptop in the shop.
As you can tell, I am confused and frustrated – there’s an outside chance today’s attempt might a difference but I am dubious
Oh, and for some reason I cannot get the radio to work again! I punched in the code the dealer gave me several times and it has not worked. The service writer said after these failures I should pull the fuse or disconnect the battery and start all over again – that hasn’t worked either.
So it has not been a happy afternoon. I just spent about 30 minutes on the phone with American Honda and asked them open this for case review (I called them 2 months ago so I was already on record about this low MPG situation.) They are supposed to call back by Tuesday.
Meanwhile, my neighbor across the street with a newer AT Fit is getting 6 – 9 miles per gallon better mileage than I am right from the start with a similar commuting route!
(We won’t even mention I convinced my wife – who wanted great mileage - to buy the Fit and not to buy the Prius even after we rented one and got 45 MPG!)
My wife asked me if we would be in position to make some type of lemon law complaint (I have a feeling those are very hard to pull off.)
Frustrated to the max –
Andrew
And he's the person who denounced the other Honda dealer and almost everything I told him I have read in this group...
(At least my wife can listen to her favorite radio stations - regardless of the milage she is getting!)
Andrew
Now you know how, and you know that nothing broke and you are still alive!
I agree with dewaltdakota.
ALL electrical may not have been turned off. Or it is possible your engine was very warm. Maybe it was driven without your knowledge.
If it were my car I would do it again Saturday morning when the car has had time to sit over night and all buttons, switches, are OFF!
On both our Hondas the moment the AC is turned on a fan under the hood comes on. No matter the air temp or engine temp.
You may be able to check your's by turning on your ignition switch but not starting the engine. Press the AC switch on for 5 seconds and off for 5 seconds . You will probably hear the fan run when the AC is on!
Keep in mind that if say the AC was on and you stop the engine and them push the AC off switch, that probably will not turn off the AC. IGNITION Switch has to be on to start or stop stuff!
Kip
Also, anyone who says the fit is only good as a city/suburban car has never taken one out on the highway. This car performed beautifully! It handled superbly and handled 75-80 on the interstates without even a whimper. It was also very comfortable. It really feels like you are riding in a much larger car.