Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

coltpeyt

I had this same issue too - in addition to many others on my 04 Eddie Bauer Explorer. What you described - turned out to be my rear axle needing replaces @ 30,000 miles...

idntnvu

Today, I took my "baby" to the car wash for the first time in months, and as I was pulling out from the wash, the transmission slipped as I accelerated. It felt like it slipped into neutral and then back into drive. I had this happen last winter on cold mornings, but after I had the transmission serviced it didn't do it any more. Does the fact that I was just leaving the car wash have anything to do with it slipping?

Also, I have yet to locate my mysterious antifreeze leak. Twice now I've checked the resevoir and it's been bone dry. I never see anything on the ground underneath it, theres nothing leaking in the floorboard and I still have heat, so what could be happening to my antifreeze?

nvbanker

Oh boy....... I told you not to buy this one, remember?????

Ok, your fluid is low OR - you may have hit some ice, at a car wash, it could have been soap, who knows...... If it does it again, check the fluid level, add 1/2 quart regardless of what the stick says, if it fixes it, that's what's wrong.

On the Anti-Freeze, this could be several things, from no big deal, to just awful, and it's going take some time and work to find out. Best case, your hoses may be a tad loose, and upon warm up, as the fluid warms faster than the hoses and clamps do, a little fluid will often seep out usually unnoticed. Over time, it depletes your supply of overflow, but it hurts nothing. Stop & go traffic makes this happen even more often on cool downs and warm ups. Remedy? Tighten all clamps with engine cool. Usually fixes problem.
Second possibility - a pinhole leak on a hose somewhere that only leaks under high pressure where you won't notice it, either outside against a hot exhaust pipe, or (sadly) inside the engine, inside a water jacket, head gasket, toward a cylinder wall, etc. This engine is NOT known for interior breaches, so that's very doubtful, I'm betting on the cheap scenerios, in fact I've never heard of a head gasket breach on this engine. (As soon as I say that, someone will flame me, but I'm just saying, I've never heard of one). I'm betting you have a bad hose, or a loose clamp. You also could have a slow leak on the radiator, tank or heater core, which won't be as cheap. Somewhere though, you're losing coolant.

nitromax

Besides the good tips that nvbanker had, you may also want to check the radiator cap for rips/tears in the gasket. I don't remember the mileage on your vehicle, or if it was bought new, but a small rip would allow evaporation out of the radiator cap.

A pinhole leak in a hose would not leave any visible leak marks under the vehicle but it would leave behind the sweet anti-freeze smell. You may wnat to stick your head under the hood and smell for leaks.
:-)

As far as worst case scenario, I had cracked heads on my old Bronco II and the anti-freeze leaked into the oil. I found this out when I went to drain my oil and 8 quarts of "oil" came out instead of 5 quarts. I got esitimates from mechanics that told me that the entire engine needed to be replaced and it would cost a few thousand dollars.
The crank bearing material reacts with the anti-freeze and erodes the bearings.
Instead I took a chance and just replaced the heads for $900. I then used Slick 50 in my first oil change after the damage and everything was fine since then.
I drove the Bronco II for another 4 years and 80,000 miles with no problems.

Sylvia

Many thanks to those who responded to our call - the issue was highlighted on http://cbsnewyork.com/ - see the link mid-page, "Hidden problems uncovered in the Explorer." video - good clip! (requires Windows Media Player)

candyo

This is the 2nd time I had to bring my Explorer back to the dealer for the same problem.The trans is leaking and ,it does not shift right.On channel two news at 12 today I found out there are many,many,many more out there with the same or worse problems with there transmission and Ford refuses to do anything about it because its not a saftey issue and no one has gotten hurt or killed because of it.This is very sad.I bought this car to be safe in and did not think I would have these problems.When it comes time to trade or use the lemon law!(NO MORE FORDS)!!!!!!!!!

mountainowner

I have a 2002 Mountaineer and the tranny never shifted smooth since I have owned it until recently, that is after I paid $1400 recently. Shifting was always harsh, and it banged on downshifts from 3rd to 2nd. The dealer said it was normal. To me it was a truck, not a luxury car and I thought some of the harsh shifting was normal. At 30k miles I had the dealer flush the tranny, including dropping the pan (paid extra of course, to drop the pan) to clean it and change the filter. I never bought into the sealed for life story, nor did I just want to flush and not clean the pan and change the filter. It was better for about 1k miles, then back to all the hard shifts and banging from 3rd to 2nd. Again, Mercury/Ford said it was normal. Then at 65k miles, the SUV developed a very severe hesitation to the point of 'bucking' at take off. When I turned off the O/D the bucking stopped, so I knew it was the tranny. Dealer replaced the solenoid and valve body, cost me $1400 after a big fight. Now it shifts smoother than ever before, better than out the door. Shifts so smooth you can't feel it. I've put about 5k miles on it and it is still smooth. My theory is this is a known bad tranny, with numerous problems and after I'm out of warranty and they can get in my pocket, they find a solution! A $1400 solution....for Ford. There is a solution for your reverse/delay problem, just make them fix it now.

stever

Here's a text version of that CBS story:

Hidden SUV Problems Uncovered

Steve, Host

nvbanker

I'm very sorry for your experience. I think your dealer is to blame, and I'd be furious at him/her, them, whatever. We had the same problem, but my dealer was very helpful, did a reflash and cured ours with no hassle at all, would have done the solenoid replacement or whatever else if needed. No way you should have had to had to deal with this for so many miles. Dealers can really make the difference between happy customers and miserable bitter customers. If only Ford and other manufacturers got that, and could really do something about it. These CSI surveys are a nice attempt, but they are being gamed so badly, they aren't very accurate.

explorerx4

it looks like they are going to do something now.
hard to feel too sorry for them since it is probably the result of squeezing the parts suppliers on cost. the way the supplier can bring down their cost is to shortcut or downgrade something, and hope for the best.

dave2222

How to solve-
After talking with a few of the technicians this is what Ive been able to gather together on how to solve/fix this problem.
-Remove the bottom plate on the transmission
-Replace the sullenoid body
-Reprogram the PCM
From what I can gather so far this is partially the suppliers fault for not doing proper quality control before it heads off to the assembly, possibly the transmission engineers didnt design the computer program properly, and other issues. Im still doing research on this and will post anything else I find.

dave2222

The issue. The more I think about what the problem is the more it makes sense whats going on. Why I didnt think of it earlier I dont know.

A few weeks ago I was having a conversation with a fusion engineer and he was complaining about how in his testing the computer program would get confused and shift into the wrong gear. If what im thinking is correct all these cars are using the same pcm program software and that the problem is actually a bad code of line or because of a certain input its getting confused and switching.

wijoco

It's not just software. There have been a lot of problems with solenoid cases and valve body gaskets cracking and blowing out on the 2001+ Explorer transmissions. The PCM not only commands the transmission, it receives input from various senors in the trans, including solenoid packs and line pressure. When mechanical problems occur, the PCM has to operate outside of its parameters, that's where much of the "confusion" comes in. I'm betting a lot of the reprogramming is to make the PCM more compliant with all of the mechanical errors and inconsistencies of those transmissions.

wijoco

Do you have any service records of previous visits where the dealer claimed your harsh shift was normal? If so, I would pursure this with Ford (manufacturer, not dealer). Sometimes they'll compensate you for an out-of-warranty repair if the dealer was negligent under warranty. You might not get the full value of the repair cost, but even if they pay half it might be worth the trouble.

idntnvu

Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it! I'm going to have some service done on the Explorer this week, have the front end aligned and the tires balanced. Have you ever heard of anyone getting the rear end aligned on an explorer, or is it even possible? I changed the air pressure that I'd been running and the out of balance feeling dissipated, and all but dissappeared. It still "whomps" though.

While it's in there for that, I'll ask them to check and see if they notice any hoses leaking. Back in the warmer months, I did smell antifreeze frequently, but since it's started cooling down over the past month or so, I haven't noticed it.

Nitromax, I bought this one used, it's a '99 XLS with the 4.0 OHV, and now has 49k miles on it. I got it in June of '03 with 32k on it.

I bought the Costguard bumper to bumper warranty on it when I got it, for the duration of 3 years and 36k miles, so it's good for another 18 months and 19k miles.

I've been knocking on wood and keeping my fingers crossed, but I had the feeling that it was time for something else to happen to it.

EDIT: I should also add that the car wash I go to is a brushless automatic, and I always opt for the undercarriage spray, which I think may be what led to the slipping. Some water may have gotten somewhere it shouldn't have. I've driven it several times since then, and it has yet to slip any more, but I'll be alert for it to happen again.

mountainowner

I have a factual letter into Ford and I'm awaiting a response from them. I agree, they could reimburse me for parts or labor, or something. I'm giving it a shot. Thanks..

mnnu

Hey I am seriously looking at a 2002 4x4 Explorer with the Eddie Bauer package w/ 38k miles. The dealer right now wants like $18,600 for it. I really like it, really nice interior, can't find anything wrong with it, but I'm not a gear-head by any stretch. Is there anything I should be looking for as far as a problem with this car? Does the price seem reasonable? I just graduated from college and this would be my first car I bought myself so I want to make the right decision.

Any help would be great.

nitromax

Have you ever heard of anyone getting the rear end aligned on an explorer, or is it even possible?

I don't recall if the Explorer suspension is a leaf spring or a swing arm suspension. (It's been three years since I had mine) If it's a leaf spring suspension then there is a chance of it getting "out-of-whack"

While it's in there for that, I'll ask them to check and see if they notice any hoses leaking. Back in the warmer months, I did smell antifreeze frequently, but since it's started cooling down over the past month or so, I haven't noticed it.

A small pinhole leak would give you the smell but not leave any tell-tale signs. That may be the cuplprit.

I bought this one used, it's a '99 XLS with the 4.0 OHV, and now has 49k miles on it. I got it in June of '03 with 32k on it.
I bought the Costguard bumper to bumper warranty on it when I got it, for the duration of 3 years and 36k miles, so it's good for another 18 months and 19k miles.

Good call getting the extended warranty. I did the same with mine. It paid for itself after having several front end components wear out prematurely and the engine having to be replaced due to a failed oil pump.
Hopefully yours won't have the same fate as mine. The good thing was, it was all paid for with the extended warranty. The bad thing was I lost all trust in the vehicle and sold it soon afterward.

scooter16

My Trans went out at 14,000 miles The 3th and 3rd gear were totaled. I will lose my Sportie for 12 days... Lemon Law issue? I don't know yet. Ford will have to come to the plate in a big way because there are 70,000 transmissions out there.

stever

Ford to Check 740,000 SUVs for Transmission Glitch (Reuters)

Steve, Host

leomort

Perhaps someone can help me here. I have an '01 Ford Explorer XLT AWD V8. I bought it used in May '03. I'm having problems starting the vehicle when it's on a quarter tank of gas. I thought it might be the starter or possible the fuel pump. But I filled it up, it only took 12.5 gals to fill up. So that means it should of had around 8 gallons or so of fuel left? When I calculated the mpg it would equal around 18.5 mpg? That doesn't seem right for city driving. The fuel gauge is flucuates from full to 3/4 full. I'm thinking my fuel gauges are wrong. I usually get around 14 mpg city and that seems to match up with my numbers with this recent refueling. I did have the fuel filter replaced a few months ago. Could that cause a problem with the fuel pump start to give out/fail? Or perhaps the fuel gauge is incorrect and I ran it lower than 1/4 tank?

nvbanker

Personally, I think that's a great truck - maybe the perfect truck. As for the price, check the Edmunds TMV page on this site to see what they're going for and what you should pay for it.

wijoco

Need to have a fuel pressure check done. The fuel gauge problem may or may not be related to the no-start. Fuel pressure can be checked while idling, under power, and checked for leakdown with the engine off.

ceads

Mine has the 4.6 with auto ,4x4 high and low, I guessing that it runs in auto all the time, since there is not light like my 95 had. How do i know it kicks in ? does it go to 4x4 when needed then go back to Auto,If so how does this work? Ive heard that there has a been a problem with some of the fords being in 4x4 and the driver not even know it , the truck thinks that the back tires are slipping. any insight will help. chris

nvbanker

I've not heard of any problems with it, in fact quite the opposite, I've heard rave reviews on this system from people who say they've tried to stick it in the snow, and just couldn't because it's able to send the power instantly where it's needed. It defaults to something around 90% rear, 10% front normally, I believe, unless some slippage is noted, then can flex with great range if necessary to prevent a stall situation instantly. It's never "locked" into a 4H or 4L situation though causing an old fashioned 'crab' situation as some jeeps and trucks of the past would, so I wouldn't worry.

idntnvu

Well, I left the Explorer at the garage all day Wednesday, after having told them to do a 4 wheel alignment (BTW Nitromax, it's a leaf spring), balance and rotate tires, and try to locate the coolant leak. As I was just about to nod off around noon, the garage called me and informed me that I needed to replace both upper and lower ball joints on both front wheels. The guy said the lower ones were shot. He showed them to me, looks like about a 1/4 inch of play, maybe more. The quote from them for replacing both front upper and lower ball joints, balance and rotate tires, and re-do the alignment: $540. I wasn't aware (or else just hadn't paid attention) to the ball joints going out at such mileage. I was told that every Explorer, Ranger, S-10 and Blazer would go through ball joings just about as often as you change underwear: every 50k miles.

Costguard will only cover it if there is an excessive amount of play or if if fails. I love it when an expensive car repair comes up during the holidays. Your family has to do with out anything for Christmas because you've had to unload all your money for car repairs. NOT.

How many others have had their ball joints replaced?

ceads

I cant hear it turn on . even when i puss 4x4 high there is no sound ,I guess i was used to hearing a noise when it is engaged

wijoco

"He showed them to me, looks like about a 1/4 inch of play, maybe more. The quote from them for replacing both front upper and lower ball joints, balance and rotate tires, and re-do the alignment: $540. I wasn't aware (or else just hadn't paid attention) to the ball joints going out at such mileage. I was told that every Explorer, Ranger, S-10 and Blazer would go through ball joings just about as often as you change underwear: every 50k miles."

Yes, they're junk. Its an area a lot of manufacturers are cutting corners in nowadays. My dad has a 99 Altima with 70K miles and no problems except the tie rods on both sides are shot. "Sealed" ball joints are just a cost-cutting move for automakers, they're not any better.

"Costguard will only cover it if there is an excessive amount of play or if if fails. I love it when an expensive car repair comes up during the holidays. Your family has to do with out anything for Christmas because you've had to unload all your money for car repairs. NOT."

1/4" play IS excessive. So Costgard will only cover it if the joint breaks? I guess they figure dead customers can't file claims? Sounds like a pretty crummy warranty company.

nvbanker

Well, I can tell ya this. My Ranger is still going with the original ball joints, upper and lower, and the original alignment at 190,000 miles, and no problems to speak of. My Explorer made it to 105,000 on the original ball joints before they had to be replaced. So as for every Ranger and Explorer needing them at 50,000 miles -I guess that tells you what I think of your garage. But I agree that Costguard is a second tier warranty company. Of course, I can hardly blame them in view of my experience with Ford ball joints either.

I guess I'd get a second opinion. Did you get any intelligence on the water leak? Probably not from that garage......

idntnvu

Well, let me first say that I was falling asleep when I wrote that last night, and I apologize for any errors, mainly the title...the second "of" was supposed to be "our". On top of that, I'm now sick for the 3rd time in a month. That makes a second place that will soon know me by my cough alone: the doctor's office.

My parents and I have been using this garage for a long time. They always gave us good service at a good price. However I just don't feel right about this one either. I talked to some of the guys I work with the other day about it. They are mechanics in the county garage, and our supervisor was a mechanic for years before he became "the boss". (I'm a school bus driver, by the way.) These guys know a thing or two, and they had their own opinion of the garage I use as well. I think their comment was "I wouldn't take my dog to them." They informed me that the guy they use frequently could probably do it for $300.

However, I feel like I know these guys pretty well, and that they would be honest with me. But, just so ya know, I am being very cautious about the whole thing.

I called the Ford dealer on Wednesday, which is when I received the news on the ball joints. I spoke with the service manager and he informed me that he had the exact same thing happen last week. A customer called them on the phone with a '99 Explorer needing ball joints, and that customer too had the Costguard warranty. That is when he told me that Costguard considers the ball joints a "normal wear item," and only cover replacement if there is an excessive amount of play or failure. I went ahead and got him to give me a "ball park quote" on the repair if I took it to them. By doing this, I was hoping it would be much higher so I could feel better about having it at my usual garage. HAH! His quote for lower ball joints was $400. Now, keep in mind that the other garage wants to replace the upper ones and align it for $540. The service manager said that the only thing listed on the computer was lower ball joints, and that "it wouldn't need an alignment after just replacing the lower ball joints." I beg to differ. My alignment will not stay in because of the bad ball joints, which is also causing my tires to wear on the inside. The other garage said that they'd need to put in a shim to get it back in line.

As for the coolant leak, they said that they'd have to pressure test it, because they saw no sign of antifreeze on the engine or anywhere under the hood, no drips, no smell, nothing. Of course I checked the resevoir afterwards and discovered that it was still full.

On another note about the dealership. I'd received very crappy service there in the past. Took the explorer in for a recall and got it back with a major wiring problem, which the warranty covered, but was "no fault of the dealership." My foot. I was talking to a family friend the other night who, after owning Fords for years and having one Suzuki, and keeping it a shorter time than I kept mine, bought a Dodge. Then he bought another, from the Ford dealership that I've been talking about. He's not very happy with either of his Dodges, but talked very well of the service department at the Ford place. He said that he knew the new service manager, and was told that when the new guy took over a few months ago, there was a mass firing of mechanics and other personel. He talked like the service department was excellent now, so I may try them again if I come to the point that I feel like I"m getting ripped off by the garage I THINK I know so well.

So tell me nvbanker, do you think I'm being fed a load of crap that the "explorers and rangers go through ball joints every 50k," or is it only SOME of them?

By the way, I hope all of you had a Happy Thanksgiving! I had a good one myself, it was great to have the family all together again, but after finding out that I needed ball joints and my sister's '93 Pontiac needs a transmission, our holiday was filled with thoughts of empty pockets for Christmas. And now this cold ices the cake.

bigalds

About the Lower Ball Joints, I have a 97 Explorer XLT with the 5.0L V8 with 130,000 miles, still on the original sealed ball joints, with NO play in ANY of the original Front End parts, including upper and lower BJ's, Tie Rod Ends, Bushings, everything tight is as tight as a drum, tires where very smooth and even. I love my Explorer Front End. Maybe the V8 model uses heavier duty parts that the 6 cylinder version?
 
On the other side of the coin, I had to replace the original lower ball joints on my 99 Blazer LS, at 90,000 miles. There are the type with the grease fittings. I got the new ball joints from Autozone for only $15 each, and they even had the "Pressing Tool" to loan me for free to do the job of pressing out the old ball joints and pressing in the new. I could have bought the Tool outright for $105.00, but how often do you need to use it? I had to leave a refundable deposit for the Tool, but the whole job only cost me about $33 and about 4 hours labor. Hard to beat that price! Now she rides smooth and quiet and did not require an alignment afterwards, the steering wheel is perfectly straight and the tires where perfectly even.
E.D.

nitromax

A customer called them on the phone with a '99 Explorer needing ball joints, and that customer too had the Costguard warranty. That is when he told me that Costguard considers the ball joints a "normal wear item," and only cover replacement if there is an excessive amount of play or failure.

I had to have my ball joints replaced on my 97 Explorer Sport around 60k. They were covered by the extended warranty.

As for your Ford dealer not covering them because it's a "normal wear and tear item". Ball joints normally last at least to 100k and I would say 1/4" of play IS excessive and that they should honor your request.

Good luck

ajmtbm

02 Explorer. When starting, and the climate system kicks on, the inside of the vehicle smells like cigarette smoke for a bit. not very strong, but just like the lingering scent when someone has had a cigarette and goes inside. it goes away after a couple of minutes. Its a limited with the Dual Auto climate system, and we keep it in auto mode all the time. anyone else had this experience?

also... when turning the vehicle off, the climate system seems to make noise for a few minutes...not sure if this is related (or normal). still under warranty, so i will bring it up to the dealer, but I'm sure he will dismiss this problem with the age old "cant duplicate problem" excuse.

thanks!

slehrman

I have a 95 Explorer with 139K miles. The heater fan started blowing very hot air and then luke warm air. At the same time, my gas mileage fell sharply. The symptoms sounded like a stuck thermostat. My mechanic replaced the thermostat but that did not solve either problem. We ran the self diagnostic test on the automatic temperature control and got an error code 25 indicating a blend door problem. The mechanic removed the glove box and said the actuator is moving but the blend door may be stuck or broken. My question is why would the blend door failure cause my gas mileage to drop? Are these two unrelated problems or is there another explanation?

1stmountie

I posed this message in another forum. From what I hear, it affects 02's and 04's. Would like to know why not 03.

Well, I had that problem with my 04 Mountaineer (6,900 miles). My problem was not so much park to reverse, but from a forward gear to reverse (ex: quick three point turn). Throw it into reverse, give a little gas "BOOM". Serious delay. Since it's my first SUV, thought maybe it was normal if I attempted to accelerate too quickly in reverse coming out of a forward gear. If I shifted into reverse, waited an extra second or two, not a problem.

When my friend forwarded the article to me, I called my dealer. Told me to bring it in for test ride to recreate problem, then would order the part and schedule appointment. Brought it in this past Saturday and he acknowledged the problem. He had a few of the replacement solenoids in stock and fixed it on the spot. Saturday after Thanksgiving must be a slow day since everyone wants their cars/trucks fixed before the long weekend. Whole repair process took 90 minutes. Don't have to drop tranny to repair. As I watched from a distance, all I saw was the pan removed and the fluid drained. Assuming solenoid is external to the tranny. Haven't tried to recreate the problem on my own yet to test the fix, but I do notice the truck to be a little smoother in the forward shifting. I'll update.

nitromax

The mechanic removed the glove box and said the actuator is moving but the blend door may be stuck or broken. My question is why would the blend door failure cause my gas mileage to drop? Are these two unrelated problems or is there another explanation?

Is the engine running smoothly or does it idle rough? hesitation?

ogbonna

I have a 98 auto 4x4 xlt. I did this to test the
activation (engagement of the 4x4 system). I backed up hill (small) with gravel enough to cause the rear wheels to spin... the front wheels
then engaged. I also have an LSD on the rear this
also worked. When I use the high switch I don't hear the engagement but I can feel it. The Low however I can hear and feel it the additional gear will slip into place. All of this was done as a test one time and one time only.

slehrman

The engine is running smoothly. The car computer shows a steady drop from 18 mpg to 13-14 mpg over 3-4 miles. I have never seen the average mpg drop like this on this vehicle. The instantaneous mpg is what I expect - 9 mpg climbing hills and 17-21 mpg driving flat. The mechanic is going to do a diagnostic scan on the engine on Friday. Try to find out if there is a problem with the fuel system, o2 sensor, vacuum line or something else. Still seems odd that I would have these two problems (poor gas mileage and hvac) simultaneously.

lemonaid

Hi Mike,

What's the status of your lemon law claim? I've got them on the chirp as well as the tranny. Who did you use for your lemon law application?

Howie

nitromax

The mechanic is going to do a diagnostic scan on the engine on Friday. Try to find out if there is a problem with the fuel system, o2 sensor, vacuum line or something else. Still seems odd that I would have these two problems (poor gas mileage and hvac) simultaneously.

In the past, carmakers have used engine vacuum to operate the various vent doors inside the dash.
I'm just curious if the Explorer uses the same technology or are the vents actuated electronically. anybody?
A leaking vacuum hose would give both poor vent actuation and gas mileage, but I would expect that it would also show up as poor engine idle.

I also don't know if current technology is still using vacuum for actuation. Someone more "in-the-know" might be able to help there.

idntnvu

I took the Explorer in today to have them measure the play in the ball joints. 197 thousandths on the left and 154 thousandths on the right. Hopefully I'll find out tomorrow if Costguard will cover it, but it may be later in the week. I'll keep ya'll posted.

ceads

I couldn't feel a thing when i Push the "high" button . I was told that it runs in AUTO all the time and will kick in when needed ,But i dont know if that is true or not

1stmountie

Howie,

Is the tranny problem you are having related to the known solenoid issue? I heard these problems can range from small to serious. Biggest symptom is delay into reverse. Mine was resolved this past weekend. While I was at my dealership, service guy at the counter pointed out to me another Mountie on the lift that had serious damage as a result of this problem.

Good luck to you in however you pursue this.

ogbonna

It does run in auto all the time (at least mine does) in 2wd. It goes into 4X4 high when the
sensors detect the surface is wet (including show) or when the rear wheels are spinning,
I think their are sensors in rear axle to sense this. Maybe the 2002 is a bit softer in terms of
noise and feeling, than the 98. Hence the difference I have a knob to tern when I want to
manually activate HI or LOW 4X4, To go into 4x4 Low, this needs to be from standstill... in neutral... with foot on brake

jrc346

Wife has a 2000 Explorer with 78,000miles on it now. A year and a half ago the lower ball joints needed replacement (no front end alignment needed) and cost me $200 (Warranty Gold picked up the other $200). About 6 months ago the upper ball joints started groaning but there was no play in either. I drilled a hole into the ball joints and filled them with synthetic brake caliper grease which stopped the groaning. Don't know if I would recommend this, but I do frequently check the ball joints to make sure that they still don't have any play.

I have been on these boards for around 4 years plus. I have seen many instances of sealed ball joint failure from the 1998-2001 model year Ford SUV's. My 1996 Explorer, which I sold at 92,000 miles, had the original ball joints, and my son's 1996 Thunderbird has 138,000 miles on it with all original sealed ball joints.

BTW, I am no expert on the matter, I am just pointing out a few observations:)

aretiredguy

I had some hesitation in my, 2004 Explorer, transmission going into reverse and was looking for some answers, when I saw the story by CBS New York.
 http://cbsnewyork.com/investigates/local_story_324112924.html

Took the CBS article to dealer and he was aware of the problem. They did transmission diagnosis, found line pressure low due to solenoid failure.
They removed the transmission pan, replaced solenoid body(Part# 4L2Z-7G391-AA) and re-programed PCM.

Refilled transmission with MERCON R V auto transmission fluid.
ALL WARRANTY WORK.

So far so good, haven't had any more shift problems.
Good Luck to all 2004 owners.

02explr

I have an 02 Limited with 28,000 mi. I have always thought the tranny was a bit weird, but thought perhaps I was paranoid. On my '91, I got a rebuilt tranny after 161,000 mi, that only lasted 6 months, so I figured I might be a bit touchy on trannies. Anyway, I took the car for routine maintenance, deciding to include the transmission service called for at 30K. I also asked them to check the transmission because I have always felt it shifted a bit weird at times. When I picked it up, they had done the service, but found no problem. The very next day, the alarm sounded (like the low fuel alarm) and the computer displayed, CHECK TRANSMISSION, and the Overdrive/off light was flashing. I went directly back to the dealer. They kept the car, saying that there was a code for those lights, relating to the torque converter. After a few days, said they were talking to Ford, and thought they would be putting in a new tranny. I was alarmed at this, but was assured it would be a NEW, FORD, FACTORY Trans. I had my husband call the next day, and he was told the same thing NEW FORD FACTORY transmission. We were not given an explanation as to the problem. Of course, when I picked the car up, the ticket indicated a REMANufactured transmission, and the service guy said, yes it was remanufactured by Ford, and denied he had ever told us it was new. Needless to say, I was livid about this. Anybody have a similar experience with an O2, and/or an opinion on if it is typical to get a REMAN as opposed to new trans? Did I just have a liar and/or a dumb service counter guy that didn't know what he was talking about? I asked the service manager to call me, but he has not done so. I think I should be entitled to an explanation about the original problem, and also a refund of the 30K service I paid for. Does anyone know if I buy an extended warranty now, will the REMAN transmission be covered? Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks for reading a long post.

bioman

A remanufactured transmission is very close to being a new transmission. All of the internal parts of a remanufactured transmission are new. The only used portion of the transmission is the outer case. A rebuilt transmission has had only the parts that have failed replaced. That is why you pay more for a remanufactured transmission. An automobile manufacturer will replace defective transmissions with remanufactured transmissions as a usual practice depending upon the age of the vehicle. Why you were told otherwise is tribute to the ignorance of the folks at the Ford Dealership. They should have explained what a remanufactured transmission was. Had that been done, your reaction might have been different. As far as the extended warranty is concerned, call and get information directly from the people who administer the extended warranty. Depending upon the extended warranty that you have you may be walking through a minefield of exclusions or the warranty may truly cover everything.

electricdesign

Sounds like your original "new" transmission wasn't very good, being that it only lasted 28,000 mi. The REMAN may be better than your original tranny. As long as it is warrantied the same, it should not matter. About your paranoya, yes, a tranny should last a long time, At LEAST 150,000 miles at the very minumum, 200,000 would be a satisfactory average life span, if it is well taken care of. I also had a 91 explr and a 93 explr, trannys were bad in both of those, they were called LIGHT DUTY trannys, (A4LD, Automatic, 4 Speed, Light Duty)and they were designed weak, they often would fail after rebuilds unless you had a really sharp rebuilder, you needed a good REMAN where everything inside the case was replaced with new. When those trannys worn out, there was nothing left any good but maybe the case. I like my 97 explr with the 5.0 L V8, with 130,000 miles, it has a very strong transmission behind it, a 4R70W, and I expect it to last past 200,000 miles.
Good Luck,
E.D.

idntnvu

I'm going through the ball joint replacement ordeal myself at this very moment. Over a week ago, I took my '99 in for an alignment, and they found the bad lower ball joints. They recommended replacing both upper and lower joints at the same time. I'm still waiting on Costguard to make a decision on whether they are going to cover it or not. My lower joints were 197 thousandths on the left and 154 on the right. The mechanic who has been working on it every time I take it in was really smart with me the other day, so if I find out that Costguard won't cover it, I'm taking it elsewhere. The guy acted like I was stupid for wasting my time to see if the warranty I bought to cover this exact sort of thing, a warranty that cost me a thousand bucks, would cover the repair. He acted as if I should just shell out the $600 they want and get it done, because "well hell all it's gonna do is continue to wear your tires out" and some other mouth full of stuff. I've been using this garage for a long time, as has the rest of my family, but the buck is gonna stop here. I won't be talked to like a moron by some guy who's only been working for this place 8 months. If Costguard covers the repair, I have a $50 deductible to satisfy, but if this guy talks to me like that again, I'll just take it to the dealer that screwed me before and not have to pay the deductible, that'll suit me fine. Sorry for venting, but this whole episode has got me in a knot. I've been purposefully hitting speed bumps, potholes, etc in hopes the thing will break and then Costguard will actually cover it.

What was the mileage on your wife's explorer when she had the lower joints replaced jrc346? Mine has 49,600 on it.