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I have a 92 Maxima GXE auto trans. The problem is when I step on the gas to accelerate, the rpm will climb all the way up to 4k or even 5k (depending on how hard I step on the gas) but the car will NOT move. Nothing! The speed remains the same. This had landed me in quite a few close calls when I needed to accelerate away from traffic but couldn't. I have replaced TPS, fuel injectors, distributor & coil wires, air filter. I don't know what else to do. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Or, you can just ask him online to click on your name and send you an e-mail with his address.
Maybe the level dropping means that air is gradually working its way out. Hope this helps.
Dave
I've recently decided to buy a '97-'00 Maxima (leaning towards 5 spd) because it seems like a good blend of styling, durability, and performance in my price range. But reading about some of the issues that seem to quite common among Maxima owners gives me some second thoughts and I'm wondering just exactly how widespread these problems are since they are pricey repairs.
On the list I've got:
Ignition Coils
MAS
Throttle Response Sensor
O2 Sensors
"Fuel-cut" problem I read about on maxima.org
Could someone clarify exactly which years suffered from these problems and how prevalent they are?
Are there specific ways to identify these problems when examining a car by a somewhat car-illiterate person? Or would mentioning them to mechanic be enough?
Can I assume that these things will need to be fixed if the previous owner hasn't already fixed them? Or can I assume that they don't have these defects if they haven't encountered this problem after X number of miles?
Also, are there any other "problem areas" in the Maximas to look out for?
I've identified several good candidates in my area and plan on looking at them this week, but I want to armed with enough information so I don't stuck with a something that's going to be spending a lot of time in the shop and a source of many headaches.
Thank you very any insight into this.
One item you didn't mention is common-warping brake rotors. Check for pulsating brakes on whatever you test drive.
Dave
Would this pulsating be pretty obvious when braking, or would someone have to really concentrate on detecting it?
Also, would this be the kind of thing that any decent mechanic could detect when inspecting the car?
i'm having similar start problems:
i have a 99 max with 60k, and often it doesn't start on the first try. it will crank when i turn the key, but won't fully turn over (just keeps cranking). i called my dealer, who told me to press the gas pedal a quarter of the way down, and then turn the key. the situation improved slightly, but it still has about a 30% failure rate.
also, about 5% of the time, it does turn over completely, but the lights on the dash fade out and the car will stall. other times it will just run rough for a few seconds. i have no problems once it is up and running.
i bought the car in august, so the problem has been around before the cold weather.
does anyone have any suggestions? all are welcome - i'm avoiding taking it to the dealer and then have difficulty reproducing the problem.
thanks
Obviously that's not your case...
I had the ignition coil problem. Other than that, my Maxima has been incredibly problem free for 100k miles. The engine still runs great and the car has not turned into a rattlebox even in Northeast winters. It’s comfortable, fast, and has never left me on the side of the road. With the manual transmission I get 25-26 mpg in mostly highway driving (70-80 mph).
One non-routine repair bill for less than $1,000 at 100k seems like a good record to me. I have been very diligent in keeping up with the routine maintenance schedule - I would recommend the same to you.
But, I have heard that other Maxima owners aren't so lucky and have had to change rotors and pads to solve the issue.
I would think a decent mechanic would catch it in a routine inspection. A mechanic could check the thickness left in the rotor and tell you if they could be turned ( or maybe already have been turned) :confuse:
Dave
Thanks, Bob
How to install and fix: Car Window Regulators
How to install and fix: Car Brake Pads
:sick:
Hope this maybe will help.
Also, before I bought my '05, I test drove an '04 that was used. The '04 did this pulsating pull to the left as well, I thought something was wrong with it, so I didn't buy it.
Does yours do it all of the time or is it just sporadic? Can you duplicate it? Are you coasting with your foot off the gas? Automatic tranny right? Would be interesting to hear others thoughts on this issue.
It is permissible to install lugnuts with an air impact wrench provided: (1) the lugnuts are started by hand, and (2) they use a torque extension with the gun. The torque extension will guarantee proper torquing of all lugnuts.
But it is always safer to torque lugnuts by hand.
In my opnion, you are better off investing in a set of good quality tires, rather than getting rid of the car, which will be a lot more costly.
Had to have it towed to the dealer. Ended up it was the starter and the dealer said I needed a new battery. I think the battery was probably OK but it was 3 years old so I decided to go for it - it being winter here at the time.
So parts totalled $316, 2 something for the starter minus $60 core return and $69 for the battery. That wasn't that bad but $379 for labor, add some tax, and that got the total just over $700 - ouch!
At least the car ran great for a month. Now I have a new problem and that's why I'm back. I will outline that in another post though.
tx
Jeffer
The mechanic changed the starter, fuel filter and the upper crank case sensor, but this did not fix the problem - starting is still a gamble. Now it is going back to mechanics for more diagnostics.
I see many similar posts for the Maximas. Has anyone been able to fix the issue?????
I am hoping for any advice!
Thank you, Eugene
The mechanic I go to - who is a Nissan trained Master mechanic, is puzzled by the problem. They already replaced the starter, the upper crank case sensor and the fuel filter, but the problem is still there. The car is going back to them today for more diagnostics. At this point they think it is a failure of a sensor, likely the other (lower) crank case sensor.(could be a cam sensor - I might have gotten the name wrong)
RLN1