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Here's my method for oil changes. I also like to take my vehicle to the dealership to have the oil change performed so that everything is on file given that any potential engine trouble should arise down the road. Prior to taking my vehicle(s) in for an oil change, I will usually stop by Walmart, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. and pick up a case of the Mobil One fully synthetic oil (5W30) and purchase a Mobil One oil filter to match (approximately $11 for filter, $30 for oil). Then, I take my vehicle to the dealership and let them perform the service on the vehicle utilizing my own supplied oil! Works out pretty good actually because they only charge me $8 - $11 for their labor. For some this may be an inconvenience having to make several stops along the way prior to hitting the dealership, but for me it gives peace of mind. I know that my own supplied oil is going in my vehicle and that I am using a top notch filter as well.
Most important, I can visually see the servicing technician pouring the oil into my vehicle. That also gives me peace of mind because when I first started doing this, I would go to a dealership that took my vehicle to the service area and then I had no clue as to whether or not they were actually "using" my oil or simply taking it home with them. With those ill feelings, I begun asking the dealership to allow me to look over my vehicle while they were performing the oil change; to which they politely obliged. Now, I eliminate that issue by taking my vehicle to a servicing dealer that has the oil change equipment right in front of your face!
Also, for the record I also have fallen victim to the every 3K oil change but with the use of synthetic oil, I've become a little more laxed because of the durability of synthetic oil. On my new Envoy, I will do 3K oil changes up until about 6K, then I will do every 6K after that. This keeps me in line with the service schedule since most items fall at the 12K, 18K, 24K, 30K range (i.e. tire rotations, etc).
Hope this helps you! ONLY the best oil and filter for my baby!
Thanks!
IExplore2000
PS: Just for kicks, if you get your oil changed, don't reset the DIC.. just watch it to see how often/when I determines that you should get an oil change. I did this with my Impala due to the large amount of miles driven for my job. Although I changed the oil every 3 - 6K, the DIC would consistently display the "Change Oil" light around 6 - 7K. I wanted to try this with my Envoy, but unfortunatly the dealership reset my DIC a few days ago during my first oil change! DoHH!
Low and behold the studs started STRETCHING. Not good. Backed off setting and tried again. One broken stud at 90 lbs and another at 74 lbs. My 2002 Envoy is in the shop right now getting all studs replaced, and it is NOT being covered under warranty. This will be a fight for a later day.
Has any one else had a similar experience?
I will mention that when I searched this site, I found a few posts about over torquing by impact guns. Did any one have to have their studs replaced? Was it done under warranty? The only other time my wheels have been off is when the dealer did my previous rotations.
Thanks in advance for any info.
That's good news, Bobbie, and makes us feel confident in our vehicles. The 17 Million miles is a lot to get off of one engine! You've driven a lot more than the 17K that most people would have driven at this point
My response to that would be "Well, I'll consider letting you leave it in if you don't charge me for it, and in return, I'll help you cover up your mistake by not pointing it out to everyone. Otherwise, I want it removed, and the oil I specified put in." Then I would further put him on the spot and ask him how such a mistake could be made, since the regular oil is in bulk and the "good oil" is in bottles.
Tblazed, I remember your earlier post about the cam phaser system, and that I remember that being from a "legit" source. Doesn't apply to my drivetrain apparently though :-)
Oh yeah, Onlyagirl, I think it'd be great if the quickie lube places sold an instant oil analysis. What they lost on oil changes they'd probably make up on testing revenue.
Some truck stops offer instant analysis for truckers, but otherwise the only way to get one done is to order a kit off the internet, wait for the mail, etc.
Finally, I check my oil every time I fill up. Usually I'm the only one with a hood up though.
Steve, Host
If you reset the "average mileage" back to zero by holding down the button with the arrow on the lower right-hand side of the steering wheel the answer is no, the average is from the point that you reset it.
If you've never held down that arrow button and set it back to zero then yes thats the 17k "average mileage".
I have rotated mine 4 times with a none calibrated wrench and do not feel any stud stretch.
Nothing wrong changing the oil every 3K, but it sure is not doing your engine any good.
Grab a sample if you really want to learn something.
jjw
ND
In case you've missed the buzz about displacement on demand, here's a recent article from Motortrend:
Displacement on Demand Arrives in 2005 GM SUVs
Steve, Host
Pepper50 I wish I'd had those words then but,at the time I just paid ....but when I had my meeting with the MB regional service manager to discuss the many problems with my vehicle and with the service department it was just another round of ammo...he was incredulous that someone actually told me that...
I'm sure no one cares but given all the discussion I've decided to get the oil changed before my trip...then will let it go longer the next time....I will try to be good and check the oil level more often...but I will do it at home...I just think I would look a bit silly trying to do that at a gas station...trying to look like I knew what I was doing...when I really don't....
Good point on the homelink, I couldn't think of anything other than a garage door. Now I can program my dad's garage as a 2nd button.
Please scroll up a few post and see my critiques concerning our trip in my aunts 6 cylinder TB Ext.
Personally, I have the Envoy SLT XL V-8 and after making this 700+ mile trip loaded with passengers in the Trail Blazer, the V-8 has my vote!
Ironically, my aunt mentioned yesterday while riding in my Envoy how she had wish that she purchased the V-8 model. However, after owning a regular length TB LTZ, she assumed that the 6 cylinder had ample power, therefore she never test drove an EXT model.
Good luck with your choice, I like both engines for their overall smoothness but for a small reduction in gas mileage, the V-8 is definitely worth the price of admission!
Thanks!
IExplore2000
Slightly worn tires won't leave sludge and deposits inside the engine especially if you do a lot of short drives and the vehicle sits sometimes 2 or 3 days, allowing contaminants suspended in the oil to settle out.
"Nothing wrong changing the oil every 3K, but it sure is not doing your engine any good."
It certainly won't cause any harm either. I change mine based more on TIME than miles since I don't drive a lot. 3 times a year in Oct, Feb, and June. If I went by GM's Oil Life System recommendation I would be leaving oil in that engine for a year at a time. I don't buy that. Not in MY engine anyway.
Also, RE: steve_ HOST "Tblazed, I remember your earlier post about the cam phaser system, and that I remember that being from a "legit" source." The source is from the GM Service Manual section about troubleshooting the "DTC" or trouble code that sets if the cam phaser fails to respond properly. Poor oil quality is a possibility.
2003 TB
2002 C320
1971 Cutlass Conv.
1997 Nissan
1990 ariens 9hp rider
2001 MDT 8HP Snowblower
20" Murray push lawn mower 3hp
pair of inline skates
red rider wagon
oh a wheelbarrow?
1999 Cavalier Z-24
1994 Camaro Z-28
1972 Cutlass Supreme
1968 M274-A4 Military Mule
1999 18 HP Sabre Lawn Tractor
1967 10 HP Bolens Lawn Tractor
1995 3.8 HP Ralley Lawn Mower
1993 Ryan Weed Wacker
1974 Cox .049 Airplane
Numerous 1/18th scale Diecast cars
Gee, this is silly!
GAM
Steve, Host
I had the aftermarket Delphi Skyfi unit put in. It's an 03 LTZ and didn't come with the $150 Traction Assist option, go figure. The horrid cheap plastic "Trailblazer" logo above the rear wiper control was the perfect mounting spot. I lucked out
http://myweb.cableone.net/brandon1337/dcp_1256.jpg
http://myweb.cableone.net/brandon1337/dcp_1253.jpg
http://myweb.cableone.net/brandon1337/dcp_1258.jpg
Of course it's the best looking one out there
Enjoy the XM too.
Steve, Host
BTW, I had the head off my diesel engine with over 220K miles. No sludge to be found in fact it was remarkable clean considering how black to oil gets, how long I extend the drains and over 200K miles.
Oil testing is the oil way to SEE what is going on. Based on what I found in my pickup I will not change oil any earlier than what the computer says. I have never found the manufactures to be anything but ultra conservative with it comes to warrenty issues as a result of PM schedules.
jjw
ND
I change oil on my wifes Z-24 every 3000 miles, but she only puts on 3500 miles a year. I'm going to go 5000 miles between changes on my Envoy. That's half what the DIC is telling me and about twice a year. Oil is a LOT better than it was when 3000 mile intervals became all the rage. 3000
miles on a synthetic is a complete waste of oil. The only ones who even suggest 3000 mile intervals are the car dealers, and you know their reasoning.......$$$$$$
GAM
The best part about this debate is the whole "Mileage" thing anyway. What does mileage have to do with engine wear? Nothing, what the industry should due is add hour meters. Then between your hours and your mileage you would have a much clearer picture of what kind of miles have been put on a vehicle.
How good can it be for the oil if a car idles for an hour a day in the heat on a 15 mile trip? What does the 15 miles show?? Nothing....
Just my $0.02
Frank
Save your money and go with the I-6 if you aren't going to be hauling a lot of stuff or towing anything really heavy. Sure it will take about .5 seconds longer to get to 60 mph but you will have $1500 (MSRP) more in your pocket, and save 1-2 mpg in gas (10%?). However, I would suggest the 3.73 or 4.10 rear axle ratio. It'll get you off the line a little quicker.
Or am I just dumb and making that up about getting better gas milage after approximately X miles.
And a good point on the auto windows. I wish they went up automatically (er if they do, I haven't figured it out). I really wish there was a "break-point" on the auto down. My mum's 00 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a good feel. You push it down until you feel resistance, then push until you hear it click to make it auto go down.
In the TB it's hard to get it to go down just a little, without having it go down all the way.
Brunopuntzjone, I haven't played with my spreadsheet lately, but my mpg on my minivan has gone up from day one basically. Last I looked, it was still going up - a tiny increment, but up. I was at 20.3 lifetime at 20k and 21.2 at 75k.
fwiw, I went from around 14 to 20 mpg over the first 17,000 miles.
Steve, Host
Last time I checked, an oil analysis cost $25-30. I can change the oil and filter for about $15 myself so I did not think the analysis was cost-effective. I change it more than once a year due to my short drives and the truck sitting sometimes for a few days at a time. My reasoning for that is 1) moisture that condenses in the engine as it warms up and doesn't always get hot enough to evaporate off that water, and 2) during cold operation up to fully warmed up, closed loop condition, the engine is running more rich, contributing to more carbon buildup in the oil. Regardless of how good todays oils are, they still get contaminated with the normal by-products of the combustion process. My opinion is culminated from over 35 years of vehicle ownership and maintenance, studying a lot of manuals, and asking a lot of questions.
Dean
Better yet would be a drumstick (extra krispy) from KFC. That would have the bone inside and emulate a human appendage...
Dean
My arm is stuck ;>)
To replace all 24 at the dealership it cost $380, out of my pocket, so far.
Thanks
David
Right you are, LOL!
I believe it could keep up on D, but I would hate to give it more gaz. It looks like it is not working as hard on 3, just having higher rev (500 RPM more).
I want to change my trailer next year, so I want to make sure this baby can really pull.
I have a 3:42 axle ratio. My tent trailer weigh around 3000 lbs plus load.
Any advise?
I used Pennzoil 5W30 at first in my 2002 TB LTZ. It was changed at 1500, 3000, 6000, and 9000 miles. I switched to Mobile 1 at 9000 miles and now have 13,000 on it. I expect to change every 5000 miles with the synthetic.
My gas mileage has remained constant from the second tank of gas. I get 14.5 in combined driving and 19.5 on the highway. The TB has the 3.42 rear axle. All PCM updates have been made and there has been no difference in performance or mileage.
I expected a slight improvement with Mobile 1, however, it has been the same. I drive the same route each day with little traffic.
Overall, I am pleased with the TB, but I did have the usual repairs: headliner, mirrors wandering, AC controls, rear hatch molding. I would like the gas mileage to be closer to the EPA estimates. In every car, I have always exceeded the EPA estimates.
If anyone has done anything to improve gas mileage or performance, let us know.