I have a quick question for you guys. I remember when one or two of you had made a site on Yahoo where people could enter and "RSVP" that they were coming to one of the M meets.
I'm trying to plan a second Avalanche (you know, that dumb lego block covered monster!) club meet and am trying to find a way where people can sign in and say that they're coming. How do you make one of these?
Great suggestion! I use simple green for a lot of applications (I have a gallon jug of it) but I never thought to use it for cleaning discolored chrome.
Yahoo used to have an invitation service but apparently they don't offer it anymore. They say to try their calendar at http://calendar.yahoo.com but it doesn't look like it does the same thing.
Here's what I did: I decided to lease my 99LHS when I first got it in May 1998. It was my first time leasing. Yes, buying outright is a better financial decision, but I was a little nervous about build quality and long-term reliablity (not so much because of Chrysler but because it was such a radical new design and first year platform.) So I decided to let Chrysler take that risk for the first 3 years....hard to put a dollar amount on that risk-shift!
The good news is that 3 years and 36K miles later the car was mostly trouble-free. I just had 2 window motors replaced and a couple of minor TSB's done, all done under warranty. I don't think my dealer is a 5*, but they should be....they have been great! (That's something else that is hard to put a dollar amount to...the quality of the *dealership*!)
So after 3 years (in May 2001) I researched the actual value of the car and found out that the car was worth a couple grand more than the residual. Since I love the car and it has been trouble-free, it was a no-brainer to buy the car at the residual value.
The car is 4 years old now and doing great. Now that I own it out-right I can really do some of the mods I learned about here!
BTW...I'm grateful for all of the info I have gained on this board...you 300M guys are great! The LHS board is dead.....
Hey guys, look at this immaculate 99' M on Ebay. It's Platinum with the Camel inside, a fact of which the seller makes very prominent by saying just how rare the combination is, with only 2900 out of 60000 produced with this combo. I've never seen one before myself and it does look good, but I still prefer the Platinum & Lt. Pearl Beige combo. M that Automobile Magazine used as a long-term test car.
Toys R Us sells a great product to save your leather when using the car seats. It's called "Seat Saver" and is a thick rubber matt that fits behind the bottom and back of the car seats...will work for both infant and boosters. Can't beat it for the cost....I think it's around $15-20. I checked their website but don't see it there. You can find it in the car seat section of the store. I have been using a booster with the seat saver in my M for over 2 years with no wear. Now if I can only get my daughter to quit kicking the back of the drivers seat and getting shoeprints all over it.....
I saw a similar item in a store for $9.99. Decided to go for a cheapo solution of old towels. Somewhere I saw a strap-on solution for the back of the front seats - to protect them from kids kicking. Some models come with bottle/book/stuff holders.
My solution to keeping the seats nice and french fries out from under the seats is to KEEP THE KIDS OUT OF THE CAR AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE!! When that doesn't work, at least I have a "no eating in dad's car" rule. Cleaning out the mini-van on the weekend it like a scavenger hunt, and sometimes you're not quite sure what you're finding. All you know is that it used to be animal or vegetable.
My 99 had defective chromes. Showed like freckles IN the chrome. After a certain amount of wailing and knashing of teeth DC replaced, it turns out, four of the five. The dealer, Mendenhall Chrysler in Juneau, Ak was great, it was DC that didn't want to do it but finally gave in. I just assumed they'd done all five, but in cleaning them up this spring, I discovered the one that had been the original spare has the same problem. Here we go again. I wouldn't wait if the discoloration seems to be in the chrome, and I'd be prepared to explain how it wasn't something you did.
I share your pain with Falore, they're suck. When I stopped by, the dealers just ignore and one dealer just told me don't bother to bargain. Made me feel like I'm begging to buy a car. It was in late 2000. I got this kind of welcome twice in Chrysler/Dodge dealerships. I bet you won't have such treatment in foreign car dealerships. Since you have reached Sunnyvale already, why not go a little further, try Anderson in Cupertino. They give you warm welcome and eager to sell you a car. I bought mine from them. As far as maintenance, I have no experience, my M hasn't been in any shop yet. It's been happy 17 months of driving.
I burned that CD for you. I'll drop it off when I return the scratch remover. I found a video from a TV station in vegas that reviewed the product (as they do with others) and one car had great success with it while another car it didn't do anything. The conclusion? "Mixed results". Idiots didn't even realize that the product worked great on removing scuffs, and not on filling scratches. Duh! it's a polishing compound, not a leveler/filler! I can't believe they didn't realize that they were working with two different kinds of "scratches". Morons. lol
Did anyone see the "Queen of Clean" car cleaning special? She used Dove Moisturizing bar to clean the leather seats. So much for Zanio leather cleaner.
Most of the Chrysler testing seemed to indecate the the 300Hp was the limit for long term driving. A lot of us have Modified our M's to get into this neighborhood. I would love to dyno my car, but unless they could do it in a wind tunnel I have no accurate way to test it, because of the ram air system I have. I have had my systems on for a few years now, and no problems. So adding a new intake and exhaust system Boreing out the TB and such will have not effect on the transmission. Now if you add NOS, or a Turbo or Supercharger then that is a different story.
there's a 99 300M for sale on ebay with following mods: 20" Lexan wheels, lowered, custom stereo system, all door handles shaved, special paint, , Billet grille, DVD in headrests, etc, etc etc.
I can easly take my extra stuff off (except for the exhaust and hood scoop) to return it back to stock. To put that much into it to go for only 5K over book is tragic.
They are comming in a (dare I say it) Minivan. They have 4 kids (that I would not want in my car) that would want to be entertained in my car, by watching movies and playing vidio games. There is no way to get 10 people in my M. I will have to buy a share of DC stock so I can tour the plant. Maybe I can get the Goodyear Blimp to show pictures of my car to show at the Woodward Cruise
lowering springs and spacer kit my self, the dealer want an extra $50 for each spring to install (this while installing new struts, I thought the springs had to come off anyway?) so I will do it myself. I am going to take a week off to do it (and some other things) next month. At least I know the job will be done right.
I'll keep it in mind. If they're that friendly and eager to do business, maybe they'll toss me the keys to a demo unit and tell me to bring it back in about two hours. I'll need that much time to drive it home and back and also guinea-pig the air dam against the driveway. I'm pretty much resigned to getting a TL, but there's this one part of me that wants to know how much of the air dam scrapes on the driveway and for what distance does it scrape on before the front wheels hit the point in the driveway where they start to lift the front end clear. On that one test drive I took back on Saturday, I didn't get out of the car to take a look when the scrape happened. I just wanted to beat a hasty retreat before the salesman might decide to do something like declare the air dam damaged and put me on the hook for it.
Speaking of center caps - will the center cap from the 16" wheel (the one with the logo) fit in the 17" wheels? If so, has anyone done it? I like the logo personally.
I have put Chrysler logo wheel center caps on both my '99 and "01 300Ms, as well as my wife's '01 Sebring LXi (winter wheels). The medallions are from the '99 LHS sail panel and are self adhesive. These will fit any FLAT 300M wheel center cap without modification. On my '01 300M I had to put a bead of windhield sealant around the perimiter of the medallion to compensate for the convex surface of the cap. The medallion part # is 5288694AB, list $17.95 each. I paid $11.75 each from my (real) 5*.
I have a silver '01 M with about 13800 mi on it. The leather on the driver side seat is tearing near the seam. I have treated the leather twice within the 10 months I have had the car. My question is should the seat be replaced under warranty or is this considered "normal wear & tear". I really don't think this is normal for a car with less than 15k mi on it. Any help would be appreciated.
No way is this normal wear & tear! Unless the dealer can prove that it was cut or otherwise damaged somehow, DC needs to replace this for you. They may not want to, but if I were you, I would go in armed and ready and not budge until they replace the seat. Also, there is no provision for mandatory maintainence on the leather/vinyl. If you never cleaned or treated it with a conditioner, it would still need to be replaced under warranty.
The number I have off my invoice for the wheel discs is 4805455AB, and they retailed from Wyckoff Chrysler off the net at $15.08 each. The big Chrysler Wings emblem is 4857279AA, and it retails for $25.93. I put one of those on the center of my trunk and it has good adhesion as do the wheel discs. Been thru the power car washes many times and no problems.
I have a 2002 300M with 17" chrome wheels. Several weeks after I bought the car, one of the wheel caps fell off. When I looked at it carefully, I noticed the prongs holding the cap to the wheel were made of PLASTIC and had cracked. I took the car to the 5*, and they replaced it, AND gave me several replacements for any future loss. Each one is in a little cardboard box. I took one out, and found that the prongs were made of metal. Interesting to see the little ways that cost-cutting is acheived!
As I previously stated: I removed my air damn as it almost cost me a new bumper cover (got pulled off on a high cement parking stop). I did not notice any drawbacks since removing it:
Pros and cons:
Benefits of air dam:
questionably improved air flow under car supposedly helps direct air to slightly increase cooling and possibly cut down drag---I personally dont think it matters much except possible at very high speeds
Benefits of removing air dam:
Much less chance of scraping against rise in driveways etc
Less chance of seriously damaging bumper cover or even worse-having it pulled off the car as happened to me
Looks much cleaner without it.
Less weight--I know its negligible , but every decrease in weight helps mileage
and the other benefit of removing air damn: keeps your blood pressure lower and lowers the chance of grinding your teeth as would happen whenever the air damn catches on a parking stop or rubs on a high driveway entrance--also cuts down on swearing in front of the little ones-
Disclaimer:; I am not an engineer so remove your air dam at your own risk. I took the risk and am very happy with the results.
How the heck does he know how "rare" his car is? Does anybody here know how to find out how many were equipped a particular way? I'd venture to guess my '99 300M with PHP in light cypress green is more "rare" than his car. (I use "rare" in quotes because our beloved 300Ms are not particularly rare.)
There is a real reason why that exists, and that is that very long links skew the reader's screen (depending on the chosen resolution). Your link made a minor problem with a 1074x768 resolution, but it wasn't as bad as it can get when you have to scroll from side to side to read every line on the page.
Believe me, having to scroll left to right to read every single line on a page is probably the most irritating thing that a website can foist upon a reader! ;->
Im looking to quiet down the noise in my 99 M, and ordered some Brown Bread Sound Deadening Material... I bought 170 sq ft of the stuff so Im sure I have plenty to do a few layers... but while I have the car apart, is their anything else I should do ?
I've had my 2001 300M for 13 months now and have yet to scrape the air dam. I guess it's because my last four cars had front air dams that were as low or lower than our 300's. I knocked off or broke three add-on air dams on my 1982 Plymouth Turismo TC3 before I learned how to approach driveways, curbs, parking "bumpers", etc. In time, you too will learn these driving tactics! ;-)
I used the material in the doors and below the carpeting. I also did the trunk and spare tire well. I used expanision form for the wheel wells and body cavitiys. I used spray sound deadening under the hump (exterior). The higher you go up the fire wall the better, but it is a lot more work to take out the center console.
I plan on removing mine as soon as I install the lowering sprngs. Thinking of comming up with a feeler/sensor to detect those obstructions, that can scrape the front fenders.
Comments
I'm trying to plan a second Avalanche (you know, that dumb lego block covered monster!) club meet and am trying to find a way where people can sign in and say that they're coming. How do you make one of these?
The good news is that 3 years and 36K miles later the car was mostly trouble-free. I just had 2 window motors replaced and a couple of minor TSB's done, all done under warranty. I don't think my dealer is a 5*, but they should be....they have been great! (That's something else that is hard to put a dollar amount to...the quality of the *dealership*!)
So after 3 years (in May 2001) I researched the actual value of the car and found out that the car was worth a couple grand more than the residual. Since I love the car and it has been trouble-free, it was a no-brainer to buy the car at the residual value.
The car is 4 years old now and doing great. Now that I own it out-right I can really do some of the mods I learned about here!
BTW...I'm grateful for all of the info I have gained on this board...you 300M guys are great! The LHS board is dead.....
Take a look:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1824524606&r=0&t=0
Oh, and thanks for the help with the online invitation, it's very much appreciated!!!
Somewhere I saw a strap-on solution for the back of the front seats - to protect them from kids kicking. Some models come with bottle/book/stuff holders.
Since you have reached Sunnyvale already, why not go a little further, try Anderson in Cupertino. They give you warm welcome and eager to sell you a car. I bought mine from them. As far as maintenance, I have no experience, my M hasn't been in any shop yet. It's been happy 17 months of driving.
So adding a new intake and exhaust system Boreing out the TB and such will have not effect on the transmission. Now if you add NOS, or a Turbo or Supercharger then that is a different story.
Modded M: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1824149271
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825282454
I will have to buy a share of DC stock so I can tour the plant. Maybe I can get the Goodyear Blimp to show pictures of my car to show at the Woodward Cruise
Also, what is the part # if so Thx!
The medallions are from the '99 LHS sail panel and are self adhesive.
These will fit any FLAT 300M wheel center cap without modification.
On my '01 300M I had to put a bead of windhield sealant around the perimiter of the medallion to compensate for the convex surface of the cap.
The medallion part # is 5288694AB, list $17.95 each. I paid $11.75 each from my (real) 5*.
Lift Gate, Exterior Trim, Nameplate, "Chrysler", Gold
However, is this the same thing they do for the 16" spoke wheels? I know they have a logo in the center as well.
http://www.aliaswavefront.com/en/Community/Special/shockwave/Chrysler.html
http://www.king5.com/localnews/NW_043002WABseattle_cars.3e720cd2.html
I live in a peaceful area, but still use the Club on my cars. But I guess its not enough if the bad guy really likes some car.
2001's Top 100 Most Stolen Vehicles Report
for the United States
Source: CCC Information Services Inc.
Rank Year Make Model-Name
1 1991 TOYOTA CAMRY
2 1989 TOYOTA CAMRY
3 1990 TOYOTA CAMRY
4 2000 HONDA CIVIC SI
5 1994 CHEVROLET C1500 4X2
6 1995 HONDA ACCORD EX
7 1994 HONDA ACCORD LX
8 1994 HONDA ACCORD EX
9 1988 TOYOTA CAMRY
10 1996 HONDA ACCORD LX
11 1993 CHEVROLET C1500 4X2
12 1997 FORD F150 4X2
13 1990 HONDA ACCORD EX
14 1991 HONDA ACCORD LX
15 1996 HONDA ACCORD EX
16 1987 TOYOTA CAMRY
17 1997 HONDA ACCORD LX
18 1992 HONDA ACCORD LX
19 1991 HONDA ACCORD EX
20 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4X4
21 2000 CHEVROLET C1500 4X2 SILVERADO
22 1995 HONDA ACCORD LX
23 1991 ACURA LEGEND
24 1990 HONDA ACCORD LX
25 1995 HONDA CIVIC EX
26 1991 HONDA CIVIC
27 1997 CHEVROLET C1500 4X2
28 1995 CHEVROLET C1500 4X2
29 2000 HONDA CIVIC EX
30 1999 HONDA CIVIC SI
31 1995 DODGE NEON
32 1995 HONDA CIVIC DX
33 1996 CHEVROLET C1500 4X2
34 1992 HONDA ACCORD EX
35 1995 FORD MUSTANG
36 1998 ACURA INTEGRA GS
37 2000 FORD F150 4X2
38 1998 HONDA CIVIC EX
39 1997 TOYOTA COROLLA
40 1995 ACURA INTEGRA GS-R
41 1989 CHEVROLET CAPRICE
42 1998 FORD F150 4X2 XL
43 1997 FORD TAURUS G
44 2001 DODGE BR1500 4X2
45 1994 HONDA CIVIC EX
46 1993 HONDA ACCORD LX
47 1992 ACURA LEGEND
48 1996 FORD TAURUS G
49 2000 CHEVROLET S10 4X2
50 1995 PLYMOUTH NEON
51 1994 CHEVROLET K1500 4X4
52 1997 HONDA ACCORD EX
53 1988 HONDA ACCORD LX
54 1991 FORD EXPLORER 4X4
55 2000 FORD MUSTANG
56 1990 HONDA CIVIC
57 1993 FORD TAURUS GL
58 1998 HONDA ACCORD EX
59 1999 DODGE INTREPID
60 1989 HONDA ACCORD LX
61 1994 ACURA INTEGRA GS-R
62 2001 FORD F150 4X2
63 1993 HONDA ACCORD EX
64 1993 SATURN SL
65 1994 SATURN SL
66 1999 HONDA CIVIC EX
67 2000 TOYOTA CAMRY LE
68 1998 DODGE NEON HIGHLINE
69 1994 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4X4 LAREDO
70 1997 FORD F150 4X4
71 1994 FORD MUSTANG
72 1991 CHEVROLET CAPRICE
73 1994 ACURA INTEGRA LS
74 1994 HONDA CIVIC DX
75 1995 FORD F150 4X2
76 1996 FORD EXPLORER 4X4
77 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
78 1993 HONDA CIVIC DX
79 1997 TOYOTA CAMRY LE
80 1998 FORD MUSTANG
81 1998 TOYOTA CAMRY LE
82 1999 FORD TAURUS SE
83 1994 DODGE CARAVAN 4X2
84 1995 FORD ESCORT
85 1994 FORD EXPLORER 4X4
86 1995 ACURA INTEGRA SPECIAL EDITION
87 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY LE
88 1997 ACURA INTEGRA GS
89 1993 ACURA LEGEND
90 1994 DODGE INTREPID
91 1994 FORD F150 4X2
92 1999 ACURA INTEGRA GS
93 1999 TOYOTA CAMRY LE
94 1989 CHEVROLET C15 4X2 FLEETSIDE
95 1990 CHEVROLET C15 4X2 FLEETSIDE
96 1998 FORD CONTOUR
97 1993 CHEVROLET K1500 4X4
98 1994 FORD TAURUS GL
99 1996 DODGE INTREPID
100 1996 DODGE NEON
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Pros and cons:
Benefits of air dam:
questionably improved air flow under car supposedly helps direct air to slightly increase cooling and possibly cut down drag---I personally dont think it matters much except possible at very high speeds
Benefits of removing air dam:
Much less chance of scraping against rise in driveways etc
Less chance of seriously damaging bumper cover or even worse-having it pulled off the car as happened to me
Looks much cleaner without it.
Less weight--I know its negligible , but every decrease in weight helps mileage
and the other benefit of removing air damn: keeps your blood pressure lower and lowers the chance of grinding your teeth as would happen whenever the air damn catches on a parking stop or rubs on a high driveway entrance--also cuts down on swearing in front of the little ones-
Disclaimer:; I am not an engineer so remove your air dam at your own risk. I took the risk and am very happy with the results.
Igor
Believe me, having to scroll left to right to read every single line on a page is probably the most irritating thing that a website can foist upon a reader! ;->
Take a look at pat "Lost in the Town Hall? Ask the Sedans Host for directions!" Apr 13, 2002 10:25am for a way to handle long links without messing up the display for most of our members. You may want to back up a couple of posts for the whole conversation, but that link has the information you need.
Let me know (either in that discussion or by email - it's clearly off-topic here) if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Pat
Sedans Host
I've had my 2001 300M for 13 months now and have yet to scrape the air dam. I guess it's because my last four cars had front air dams that were as low or lower than our 300's. I knocked off or broke three add-on air dams on my 1982 Plymouth Turismo TC3 before I learned how to approach driveways, curbs, parking "bumpers", etc. In time, you too will learn these driving tactics! ;-)
http://dodgeboy.cjb.net
MOPAR or no car!
alta_300m, guess I dont need that BIG lunch box after all!!!