is there a tsb on that tranny bump problem---someone above mentioned that the tcm would have to be reprogrammed---anyone have that done to correct the problem?
My M goes in on Tuesday with a large list of minor stuff that I want to get on record as my warranty is nearly up. Overall my M has been one fine automobile. No major problems and now at 35k.
would disconnecting the battery or tranny fuse help cure the problem?
"would disconnecting the battery or tranny fuse help cure the problem?"
It will help for a while, but eventually comes backs. Removing the TCM fuse under the hood is the easiest method that I found way back when. Leave it out for 15-20 minutes. You will notice a difference as it relearns your driving pattern.
You're welcome. I'll see if I have anything else. USA Network has been showing Stephen King movies all day. No Christine though, that I have heard. Right now IT is on!
Jason, maybe you can write a screenplay for Mr. King to make a sequel to his original movie starring a red 300M. Mike could offer BigRed up for the starring role. LOL!
SDmike-Emailed you a picure of nine of my daughters friends in front of my, what do you call it? My red thing, my car. Heck I lost concertration. I do remember that is is red. I think!
Hey, if anyone should know what violates TH standards, it's you ;-) I really think Pat should deputize you so you can help out sanitizing stuff like that off this board when she's not around. Maybe we should vote; all in favor of guesswho1 becoming deputy TH monitor, say aye.
Anyone know a good on-line source for an adapter that converts a 1 1/4 inch hitch receiver to a 2 inch receiver? The Mopar trailer hitch for the M apparently is a 1 1/4 inch receiver, but the bike rack I'm buying requires a 2 incher. Thanks in advance.
Mike, what bike rack are you getting? Is it a "hanger" type or a "tray with upright support" type? Let me know how it works out, please. My family is starting to ride together on weekends, and I can only throw one bike in the trunk.
One forest fire maybe 40 miles southwest of Denver is smoking out the metro area. Not so bad yet that automatic headlights come on, but it's getting worse. Went to the store and came back out to the car to find it sprinkled with ash. My back deck. Need HEPA filtration in the M!
I'm getting the two bike tray type, as my experience with hanger types is that the bikes find a way to hit the trunk and bumper. Here is what I ordered: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.html?SKU=14520 . It's a real good price compared to other manufacturers (e.g. Hollywood Racks), and it can be expanded to 4 bikes. The problem is that the mopar hitch assembly has a 1 1/4 inch receiver and this rack (and others) require a 2 inch receiver. Turns out the adapter can be found relatively easily, but the darned thing costs about $45.
sdmike, I had the same problem with one of my wife's vans; never did find a way to use 2 inch stuff with it, and there's not a lot of 1 1/4 stuff out there. Good hunting!
You first have to remove the rear seat. Next remove the side trim panals, on eather side of the rear window. Next remove the rear deck cover, and it is peek-a-boo I see you 6X9's
installed these puppies today, real infinity speakers. they make a big difference, i can really crank the system now!!! i'm going to switch out the 6x9's as soon as i get time to tear out the back seat.
The other way to do this is to VERY CAREFULLY cut out the portion of the rear deck mat directly over the speakers and then use the speaker grills that come with the new speakers to replace that portion which was cut out. The advantage here is never having to remove your rear seat as well as having some really cool (well some of them are cool!) grills showing. No, I haven't done this. I was chicken, but I really thought hard about it!
Lift up HARD on the bottom cushion and it will come loose. Remove it. Remove the two 3/4" bolts at the bottom of the back seat cushion near the center. Lift up to release the back cushion from the "L" brackets and remove it. Pry out the side panels next to the rear window. You may also need to pry off the side trim molding at the rear of the rear doors. You don't have to remove the seatbelts. Now pry out the 3 plastic retainers that hold the rear mat in place, then pull the rear mat straight out (not up). Voila! There are your 6x9's. Putting it all back is simply the reverse of removal.
I mean remove them. Lift up front of the bottom seat and remove from car. Remove the bolts holding the rear seatbelts, next lift up on rear seat back to disinguage top hooks. Remove rear trim on each side of the rear window. These pull out (meaning no screws) It is a combination of L shaped hooks and friction fasteners. Be carful not to break the L shaped hooks. Remove the rear deck cover by taking out the push in fasteners (on the bottom facing out towards you.
greetings from the Doc.....a wee bit fuzzy, right now-pain med's kicking in.....hope all is well with you...denverm: hope those fires arent too close to where you are.....NJ still under a drought emergency so still cant wash eMIly...drat. Also am still working on Project S..have 2 more or less completed. Will send you location.... Have to go..getting very sleepy....
I've been a Kings fan for 15 years, and it hurts to see the cocky lakers cruise to their third straight when it should have been the Kings winning their first. Sorry Nets fans, I'm just bummed (and hate the lakers).
OK, I've been researching this to death cause I gotta find a solution. I've been thinking about taking out the kit I already installed and getting one from either Discount Dash (thanks glenbp for your website address) or Dashesonline who sells the Sherwood dash kits. Here's the dilema. Discount dash doesn't sell real wood kits (they are synthetic), however, they are 3D molded. They include all the parts I need including the long piece that goes across the entire dash. Their kit is installed on top of existing wood trim pieces. Sherwood dash kits are real wood but are flat kits. They actually replace the long piece that goes across the dash instead of taping on top of it. They also replace the long door panel pieces. However, in both cases, the earliest 300M model is 2000 and I have a 1999. This means that the shifter wood trim piece doesn't have individual holes to show the gear selections. They have a long oval that shows all of the gear selections. You'd have to see an example of their kit to understand what I'm talking about. Do you think this would matter? Thanks for your help. I hope to get this self inflicted problem solved soon. -vman
The solution to your shifter trim problem is simple. Upgrade to the 2000 model shifter trim. I did. This gets rid of the fish scale plastic covers around the shifter and replaces it with the leather boot. It looks soooo much better. The down side is the trim piece is expensive. I paid 237.00 in March of 2001. You should be able to beat this with an online parts wholesaler. I have since learned my local dealers only sell at the List Price.
Did those Infinity speakers fit ok? I logged onto Crutchfield site and put in my '01 300M and possible upgrades, the ones you installed didn't come up as a possible match. Wierd! They look great though. Did you have to modify anything?
Wow, this is even MORE strange. I can't even find that speaker you posted from their website. It's like they removed it from the website! I'll keep looking.......
From experience the Infinity 2 way's fit. The 3 WAYS do not. I tried a pair of the Kappa 3 ways in my doors a while back & while they fit the hole, the grill wouldn't go on because the tweeters stuck out too much.
My 99M had the "speed sensor" go out Saturday (check engine light and permanent second gear). The warranty expired about 1,500 miles ago, but I took it in to my 5 star dealer and said that the Edmunds board showed that this wasn't an uncommon problem. Result - they fixed it as a warranty item. No hassles. Dropped it off at 7:00 a.m. and they called me to pick it up by 10:00. My 5 star is still a 5 star (Keystone Chrysler - Mission, Kansas). Thanks to Edmunds for providing these boards and thanks to all of you posters. It really helps when you can take your car in and just tell them what's wrong, and it may just give us a little leverage with some of these problems. I can hardly wait to get back in the saddle and feel the joy of third and fourth gear again!
Hey,as a diehard Nets fan from Nooo Joisey, I'm just glad the team MADE the finals. Sure they are out-matched...I accept that. It will probably be 4 and out, but at least THEY ARE THERE!! Compared to last year's record, I'm thrilled that at times they are actually CLOSE in scoring. If you look just at the match-ups and the inability to contain Shaq, then I guess the Nets don't get any respect....BUT if you look at where they were and where they are now, they deserve a ton of respect.
Relevant Post: Just got a rear spoiler and will put on this week. Will post pics of course!
With much thanks to this board, I've added a K&N Aircharger and Bosch 4+ plugs. Now, I've compiled my shopping list for adding dual exhaust to my 99 300M and wanted to ask the all-knowing board members if there's anything obviously wrong with my choices (esp. my inlet/outlet sizes) before I hit the "Check Out" button. Here's what I have:
collector: Magnaflow p/n 12258 (dual 2.25" in - single 2.5" out)
tips: Chrome dual resonator tips (2.25" in / 2.5" out)
Does anyone see anything wrong with this setup and/or does anyone have any insight regarding use of a Flowmaster 42583 vs. the Magnaflow 14266? Which is louder, etc?
Mike, are there any 2" hitches available for the M? Does DC have the only game in town? I am leery of adaptors. Just something else to break or rattle.
PS How's the job market looking for you? Good luck.
Hidden Hitch makes one for the M, but I'm not sure of the details. I didn't like the looks of the pictures, as they made it look like the hitch wasn't as hidden as the mopar. The first one to check it out should post the information here for the other.
I know the 12258 works with the stock cat pipes and the stock intermediate pipe to the rear muffler, so you have that covered. Seems like the rear muffler will work too given the specs you gave. Just make sure the single inlet and the dual outlets are in the right positions, and also double check the muffler dimensions for overall fit.
As for your final question, I believe the flowmaster will be the loudest option that you have for duals. The Magnaflow will be quieter, and the Dynomax that I used will be even a little quieter than that.
Have fun! Make sure to tell the installer how far you want your tips to stick out, otherwise you'll leave it up to their personal preferances.
Hitches Online indicates that there are only class I and class II hitches for the M, and both of them use a 1 1/4 inch receiver tube. They're pretty inexpensive though....$95 for the class I and $120 for the class II
here's a great store, i've bought two from them and they even took one back i had for a year, great service. they may even have that 1 1/4 to 2 converter. i know i've seen one of those on eBay before. if you can't find one any welding shop will be able to make you one.
they fit good had to make new holes using self starting screws. no sense in getting kappas, no sound comes through the tweeters. the woofer has a long throw, so they can be cranked as loud as you want and there is no baffle. i had to turn down the treble a little, it was hurting my ears it's so loud now. and the rearview mirror shakes more now, i have a 200watt 10" sub, but my mirror shakes even more now, can't wait to get the 6x9's to match.
Thanks for the link. Their hitches seem to be about 30% more expensive, so I think I'll stick with the Mopar one. Thanks for the suggestion of eBay. I was able to snag an adapter for $22.99 plus shipping, about 1/2 what the sites charge. Silver, you might want to call them to see if they have another:
My next mod / board question will be about the pros/cons of installing the ProwlerPro gearset. I assume gas mileage would take a hit, but is it worth the fun?
Thanks!
Jeff, seeing just how fast I can spend money this summer
Comments
My M goes in on Tuesday with a large list of minor stuff that I want to get on record as my warranty is nearly up. Overall my M has been one fine automobile. No major problems and now at 35k.
would disconnecting the battery or tranny fuse help cure the problem?
"would disconnecting the battery or tranny fuse help cure the problem?"
It will help for a while, but eventually comes backs. Removing the TCM fuse under the hood is the easiest method that I found way back when. Leave it out for 15-20 minutes. You will notice a difference as it relearns your driving pattern.
fastdriver
http://www.seansa4page.com/resource/autotech.html
fastdriver
You're welcome. I'll see if I have anything else. USA Network has been showing Stephen King movies all day. No Christine though, that I have heard. Right now IT is on!
fastdriver
My red thing, my car. Heck I lost concertration. I do remember that is is red. I think!
Silver
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-udV4rXcdBYl/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=52000&I=108652I&o=m&a=0
Lift up front of the bottom seat and remove from car.
Remove the bolts holding the rear seatbelts, next lift up on rear seat back to disinguage top hooks.
Remove rear trim on each side of the rear window. These pull out (meaning no screws) It is a combination of L shaped hooks and friction fasteners. Be carful not to break the L shaped hooks.
Remove the rear deck cover by taking out the push in fasteners (on the bottom facing out towards you.
Here's the model up from those, for $82. Crutchfield wants $150 for these suckers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1358939110
Dude, you should write for Chilton.
Have to go..getting very sleepy....
Doc
Here's the dilema.
Discount dash doesn't sell real wood kits (they are synthetic), however, they are 3D molded. They include all the parts I need including the long piece that goes across the entire dash. Their kit is installed on top of existing wood trim pieces.
Sherwood dash kits are real wood but are flat kits. They actually replace the long piece that goes across the dash instead of taping on top of it. They also replace the long door panel pieces.
However, in both cases, the earliest 300M model is 2000 and I have a 1999. This means that the shifter wood trim piece doesn't have individual holes to show the gear selections. They have a long oval that shows all of the gear selections. You'd have to see an example of their kit to understand what I'm talking about.
Do you think this would matter?
Thanks for your help. I hope to get this self inflicted problem solved soon.
-vman
Glad you're feeling better. Bring eMily to CT. I'll wash her for you! NO drought here- plenty of rain. How could it all be missing you??
fastdriver
PS WHO took the horns out- toot, toot!!
Relevant Post: Just got a rear spoiler and will put on this week. Will post pics of course!
With much thanks to this board, I've added a K&N Aircharger and Bosch 4+ plugs. Now, I've compiled my shopping list for adding dual exhaust to my 99 300M and wanted to ask the all-knowing board members if there's anything obviously wrong with my choices (esp. my inlet/outlet sizes) before I hit the "Check Out" button.
Here's what I have:
collector:
Magnaflow p/n 12258
(dual 2.25" in - single 2.5" out)
muffler:
Magnaflow p/n 14266
(single 2.5" in / dual 2.25" out)
tips:
Chrome dual resonator tips (2.25" in / 2.5" out)
Does anyone see anything wrong with this setup and/or does anyone have any insight regarding use of a Flowmaster 42583 vs. the Magnaflow 14266?
Which is louder, etc?
Thanks so much!
j
PS How's the job market looking for you? Good luck.
Silver
-vman
Mike
As for your final question, I believe the flowmaster will be the loudest option that you have for duals. The Magnaflow will be quieter, and the Dynomax that I used will be even a little quieter than that.
Have fun! Make sure to tell the installer how far you want your tips to stick out, otherwise you'll leave it up to their personal preferances.
Mike
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/Products/DisplayHitch.asp?HitchID=90338
http://www.hitch-web.com/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1835297035
Videoman -
I'm getting everything from Husker High Performance:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/exhaustpros/index.html
I have the exact URLs and prices if you want them.
If there's a compelling reason to go with a Flowmaster instead of the Magnaflow, I found it here.
On a related note, does anyone know what the setup pictured here is? http://www.chryslerpro.com/exhaust.html
My next mod / board question will be about the pros/cons of installing the ProwlerPro gearset. I assume gas mileage would take a hit, but is it worth the fun?
Thanks!
Jeff, seeing just how fast I can spend money this summer