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Truck sat for over 4 years. Changed fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned tank, new plugs, wires. Sometimes it starts and runs great, others, hit the gas and it bogs, BAAAAD, to the tune of almost shutting off. Ran codes on it and nothing came up, (of course it was running good at that time), feels like a vac or sensor problem. Any help would be much appreciated, shade tree mechanic's don't know the diagnostics.
P1113 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
have a good day
Go from 5W30 to 10W30, it is getting warmer after all, and the thicker oil will not get thin as fast as the 5W oil will.
Ford Tech
Any suggestions!
When I bought my 1994 Ranger, I thought it had 'great' oil pressure since it ran about 3/4 gauge. Then, after running the car on a hot summer day, and letting it idle (in gear with AC) running, there was the oil pressure gauge indication 3/4 gauge. Rev the motor - the gauge didn't move. I knew better - at idle a hot engine is going to drop oil pressure, at lot.
That lead me to read up on the gauge a little more. It's not a gauge, it's an off/on switch. Useless to actually 'see' any variation in oil pressure.
If yours has changed the amount of deflection shown, it's not because of pressure change. It's probably due to some change in the internals of the gauge itself.
The only variables are the pressure sensor (which is either off or on), the connector to the sensor, the wiring in between, and the gauge.
My truck just stops running while driving like, I ran out of gas. After stopping it will not start. Call tow truck to take home. Next morning I want to figure out the problem but the truck starts up like nothing happened.
What to do? I would like fix it but it's not like changing a head casket. Could it be fuel pump system, ignition?
Gary
A mechanic at the Ford dealer listened to it and said it is not a big deal and relatively typical of the 3.0. I had gathered as much from this board.
He said it was most likely either a contaminated MAS at the air filter, or some carbon buildup in the engine.
I cleaned the MAS and believe that the pinging is better, but not quite gone. I talked to someone who suggested that I run some cleaner throught the engine, (Redline something or other), and also that I add something to my radiator fluid to help cool the engine so that it doesn't run so hot. He also suggested I lower the thermostat a little to 180 rather than the 195 it is at.
My question is, has anyone out there tried this approach, and did it work?
thanks,
jt
hope this helps!
-Cleaner might remove some carbon deposits from engine and help.
-I would not recommend using a 180 degree thermo. The computer, etc, etc is 'looking' for a 195 degree thermostat. A 180 might never let the engine go into 'closed loop'. In other words, the computer might think the engine is 'cold' and never move to the fuel injection amounts, spark advance, etc that should be used for a warm engine.
Basically, 3L's ping. Little can be done about it other than using higher octane fuel. This has been a design problem with 3Liters for years and years. Many will start to ping within just a few thousand miles. But, the ping does not seem to cause any mechanical problems with the motor.
a friend had a 99 that was set up the same way
When they would heat up, the wires would become more malleable and would droop or get blown next to the manifold where it could arc through causing a misfire. It would do this under load because of the voltage increase as well as probably the motion of the car making the wire move.
I replaced them with the high end ones that are guaranteed for life for about $50. Good luck.
Message 2527 replied to a message over 6 years old. I really think that is a record.
Message 2526 replied to one that is 1 year 2 months old.
My truck is not running right, its not running bad, just not right. My computer says my EGR is screwing up, but I did not think that would have anything to do with how it runs. At 40mph it chugs, and when you take it out of gear the rpm goes down to 200, but then slowly returns to 600 normal idle. Any idears, really appreciated.
we had a mechanic inspect the truck and he said the fuel filter needs replacing, i found the filter and have a replacement but for some reason i can't get it loose. i got the clips off and got it out of the bracket but its like the filter is stuck in the hose its connected to on both sides. the manual said something about releasing the pressure with the inertia swith or something and i tried it but that won't even work.
any ideas how to get the filter out? thanks
Does this mean there is a 'Check Engine' light on?
If so, fix whatever is causing that, your other problems might go away. You sure don't want to chase 'unknown' problems when there is a check engine light on.
EGR error codes get a lot of EGR valves changed that have nothing wrong with them. There are several hoses and vacuum switches related to this system that could be the problem, not the actual valve.
This tool is nothing but a thin tube with the side cut out of it, and a grip attached. You put the open side over the fuel line and slide it into the connector, which pushes the inside clip loose and it can be pulled apart.
An auto parts house should be able to sell you one for your Ranger, or a whole set for various sized lines. Only about $10, they are cheap flimzy metal.
Knowing how to work on a car is nice. But buying you a manual and telling you to 'get after it' is somewhat like throwing you into the lake to learn to swim.
I bet he bought you a Chilton's manual, right? These are almost useless for most repairs on a car. To do it right, you will need the factory manuals. Sometimes can be found on eBay reasonably, but bought new at Helms, Inc and will cost about $125.
P.S.
Good Luck.
P.P.S.
If you do get the filter off, a lot of gas is going to start coming out. It is 'downhill' from the gas tank. Do not work on this where there is any ignition source!!!! (Inside a garage with a water heater, etc!!!) Have an old pencil at hand and stick this into the open fuel line when removed to stop the gas flow! It should hold until you put a new filter on.
Now I just have to figure out what part of the EGR system is causing the problem, if I take it into the shop can they figure it out with more technical equipment, or will they do the same hit or miss fixing that I would be doing.
I really appreciate your response to my question Bolivar.
If I go with something like iridium plugs (or split-fires?) or other more modern designs, I'm not convinced it's money well-spent unless (at the very least) I have different gap specs, and I don't know if the original ignition module would even be up to the task of improving spark with a better-grade plug.
Any actual experiences to share?
Thanks folks!
I think split ring, multi electrode, etc is just marketing hype.
Spend the money saved on new plug wires. If it's time for plugs, it's time for new wires. And, you don't have to worry about damaging the old ones. Just get one off and put one replacement plug and wire back on there. Not much chance of getting them cross wired either.
It's quite simple. The part itself cost me $35 from the local Ford dealer, although some websites have it for cheaper, and another local dealer wanted $50. I got an exact replacement for the original black plastic handle, although there are chrome options, apparently, and probably others.
All that I had to do was unscrew 8 screws from the inside of the tailgate to remove my plastic bedliner, and underneath that, a metal plate covering the mechanics. The handle itself is attached with two nuts which I removed using a socket wrench, since they are an inch below some of the levers. I pulled the handle off the tailgate, and reversed the process. I wasn't working quickly or uninterrupted, but I would guess that this all took me maybe a half hour, while the dealerships wanted to charge me an hour (at the good one) or two (at the expensive one) to do the work.
One key point is that my handle broke because one of the bolts that slides back and forth to hold the tailgate to the body became stuck in it's casing. I made sure to grease this up and spray some WD-40 on the springs of the mechanics. If other Ranger owners wish to avoid replacing the handle (as I also have to do on another Ranger my company owns) they may wish to do preventative maintenance in this area.
It turned out that the air conditioning compressor clutch died. As a result, the shaft seal began to melt, so the dealer is replacing both of those, and as a result has to recharge the unit. Total cost just a bit less than $800.
I felt that the truck was due for something like this to happen given the mileage, and since it is under $1,000 I'm not too upset, but I am disappointed. I had hoped my suspicions would not be justified like this, since I believe the Ranger is pretty reliable.
Why does it seem to be a bit early?
At 6 years and 100K miles I suspect that a lot more items will need replacing. It is the nature of things.