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the fuel pump works if i run power straight to it,the relay for both the fuel pump as well as the auto shut down are both fine,ive replaced both the ign,pick up as well as the crank sensor,the pressure valve is fine as well.sometimes you hear the pump come on when you turn the key,and it starts fine then.then other times you dont hear the pump and it wont start.if you depress the valve on the rail when it doesnt start,its dry.the turn key check motor light test shows no codes except 1 -2 - 5 - 5.i am about at wits end.thankyou for any advice.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
btw, people tend to skip over posts in ALL CAPS since they are hard to read.
Steve, Host
Many thanks for your reply. I have noticed the top screw holding the side marker light but have a hard time locating the bottom screw. Will look for it again.
Do you know how I can remove the headlight? I think the plastic gizmo on one of the adjusting screws may be broken and I want to try to pull it out to crazy glue it.
Thanks again,
Sonny
sincerely,
Mimi
The mechanic did replace the yoke then. But the clunking sound is still there when you turn left. It makes the clunking sound what appears to be as the wheel is turning left and it stops after the wheel is straightened up. Though it appears to be the same sound I am now hearing when I am coming to a stop. Right now my left front hub and bearing was replaced and the dry shafts (both left and right have been removed including the u joints) ( also the front dry shaft that runs from the transfer case to the back)they have not been replaced or put back on. My mechanic said the were not needed until I planned on using the 4 wheel drive then I would have to have new ones put on. Unfortunately this has not fixed the clunking problem. So my mechanic is telling me the right bearing/hub, tie rod ends and possible the shocks need to be replaced and by doing this "it should fix the problem" Which makes me believe he really does not know what is causing the clunking (thumping)when turning left. That is why I am trying to found out any information on what the possible problem could be. I have spoke with a qualified jeep mechanic and he said it more than likely is the u joints/ dry shaft but since they have been removed he would need to take a look at it for $95.00 and let me know what is "possible" wrong with it. But he would not be able to get to it for at least two weeks. That is when I decided to research it myself which has led me to this site.Whch I plan to mention any and all information I receive including the sway bar link in hopes it will help pinpoint and or eliminate possibilities. Thank you again for the information.
Sincerely,
Mimi
:sick:
look like the compleate from axel has move to the left a little
I check my stabilazer shock and is liking oil. and the car keep puling me to the right of the street.
I been doing some reading on the net and some playses they talk about the track bar. but seem to be ok with me.
this is a problem that been hapening for a log time now but i think is time for me to fix it. I had dome aligment in the past but stil get the problem
can anyone tell me what is the problem with my from axel
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think I know what the problem is. i belive are the bushing from the arms that hold the front axel in place.
I will change those bushing since they look damege
FWIW, I had a 2000 GCL. I ended up replacing the rotors myself with aftermarket ones from AutoZone...list on them was less than $100 for the pair. If this is the 4th time to have the issue, I would contact D/C and demand that they cover everything because of re-occuring issues. Make it clear to the service manager at the dealer that if they do not go to bat for you, that the survey you get from D/C will reflect that by their low rating. (They did not stand up for me and got a low rating plus lost D/C a customer forever.)
Have your docs (they should really already have access to that in their computer) on the previous brake problems. Explain to him nicely the timeline and repeated issues and ask nicely that they assist with having D/C cover the complete repair (dealership has a warranty rep that should be able to handle). If they don't, contact D/C directly. If they still don't replace the rotors with aftermarket and make know to the dealership and D/C your displeasure.
Good luck, you may need it.
Bill
MY PROBLEM WHEN COLD ENGINE RPMS DROP CAR LUGS AND TRANSMISSION SLIPS BUT ONLY HAPPENS IN FIRST 5-10 MINUTES WHEN I DON'T WARM UP FOR 5 MINUTES. i HAD TRANSMISSION REBUILT @ 80,000. i KEEP JEEP TUNED UP @ ALL TIMES EXCEPT I HAVE NOT CHANGED THE OXY SENSORS ( BOUGHT JEEP WITH 60,000 MILES FROM MOM SO ALL OTHER SERVICE DONE @ DEALER)
PS IM NEW TO THIS FORUM SO IF IVE POSTED IN WRONG AREA SORRY MAN
You may want to skim the Transmission Traumas? discussion while waiting for responses in here.
Steve, Host
:confuse:
I have narrowed it down to the trunk (hatch) lock actuator. It makes an awful grinding noise when it opens and closes. So far I can still lock and unlock the trunk.
I opened the rear panel and could see the actuator, it is clearly the motor. I would like to replace it but I can't find the part.
Does anybody know where to get this part? I read it's about $200 from the dealer. I haven't called them to find out.