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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • ilmm4ilmm4 Posts: 1
    Would I be able to take out the ABS fuse for my brakes and would they still work fine. I really don't like the way they work when I have to hit the brakes hard. Also is the fuse wired into anything else that would crap out if i took it out.
  • Hello, the display on the CD player for my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee has stopped working. Everything still plays, CD's, radio, etc., but the display is blank. Could it be a fuse? If so, could you tell me how to fix it. Also if I were to replace the CD player, what would you recommend I replace it with?

  • sfc1sfc1 Posts: 1
    I have a 00 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. I was having the same problems. Sometimes at night, I would see my headlights flash on and off. Sometimes, it would stay on for awhile. I had switched my headlights from auto to manually turn my lights on. Since then, I've had no more problems with my battery. So Far!
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Not sure if this is it or not but check your exhaust manifold where the pipes join together down by the flange joint with the main exhaust pipe.
    The 4.0 L exhaust manifolds are known for cracking.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The only true way of finding the problem is to hook up a meter and start pulling fuses until you find the draw. There are some tricks to it so you may be better off having a garage with a good electrical tech do this for you.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Sounds like the display just went out. Odds are pretty good it would be easier to replace the CD player than to repair it. I doubt it is the fuse since the radio still works.
    Contact someone like crutchfield and see what they recommend. I put a Sony CD player in my Jeep and I've been pretty happy with it.
    If you want a particular model number, let me know and I'll dig it up.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Boy, I really wouldn't recommend that. ABS brakes pulsate when you get on them hard but they're supposed to do that.
    "Stomp and steer" is what they say.
    Why do you want to disable them?
  • gto1970gto1970 Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Jeep grand cherokee limited with the 5.2 and it has climate control. When the a/c is used and floor is selected the rear pass floorboard gets filled up with water. I can see water comming out of the little vent on the floor in the pass-rear. It probably has a clogged drain somewhere. But where is the question. Can anyone help?
  • Has anyone experienced the headlights flashing for a moment while the car is off and parked. I have a 2001 JGC Limited and it just started doing this. The driver selection 1 and 2 has been working incorrectly also.

    I disconnected the battery for 4 hours and the problem seemed to go away.

    Any info would be appreciated.
  • mtelseymtelsey Posts: 10
    I would just like to get some feedback from someone who has the 05 jgc and has had the a/c leaking into tranny fluid... Mine is back in the shop, for the second time, and now is having the transmission rebuilt. Mechanics say chrysler won't let them put in a new tranny unless 70% or more is damaged in the old one, so if less than that, have to fix what is wrong in it. It is frustrating cuz I will now have a 2005 jeep in the year 2005 w/ a rebuilt transmission. Has anyone else gotten this far w/ this problem? If you have, can you please tell me if this has fixed the problem once and for all?...
  • nosligcnosligc Posts: 2
    I have been having the same or similar issue with my 1999 Grand Cherokee. In my case, I have the switch set to automatic. I have had the lights turn on automatically even after several hours of being parked. This happens anytime of the day or night. I have also had the lights flash while driving in normal daylight as well as the radio cutting off and the lights flashing when using the turn signal. I have had the jeep in for diagnostics, however, they were unable to find anything wrong and were unable to duplicate the problem. Note that this is just the latest in a long line of issues I have had with jeep. Please let me know if you or anyone else has a solution for this. Thanks
  • ebptspebptsp Posts: 1
    I hear a loud metal on metal rattling sound when i go over bumps in the road. i drive through richmond, va all the time and you can really hear it when i go over the terribly paved roads around there. I cannot figure out what the problem is. Before it was a sway bracing problem. That is another story about buying a vehicle from CARMAX...... (never ever do that)... if anyone has any ideas what it could be and how to fix i would appreciate the input.
  • my jeep was doing this as well...I took it to the Jeep dealer and the problem was that 3 of the motor mounts were bad and loose. That seems like the fix for your problem I bet.
  • thanks paule. if you dont mind, would you dig up the model you purchased?
  • I have a '96 so I am assuming all is the same.

    There is no access to the drain (it flows into the space between the frame member that meets up with the firewall right in front of the passenger side)

    Drill a 1/4" hole right in the center of the round plastic piece that drops down to the firewall from the evap housing. Blow it out with air and plug it with a rubber plug or a bit of silicone.

    Hopefully this will take care of the problem. It did not fully take care of the problem for me. I continue to get leakage around the plastic thing that I drilled. I have used a lot of silicone but still get a little leakage. (which makes me quite mad)

    If you have any thoughts here, or can send me somewhere I would appreciate it. I am getting tired of working on this little problem. As is my wife, it is here car.

  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Sure, I bought a Sony CDX-R5515X.
    Here is the link to the site I bought it from: Stereo
    I paid $165 for it but I see it is on sale for even less.
    One thing to note is that I already had the harness adapter installed on my Jeep because I had a previous Sony in there. I don't believe you will get one ordering through this website.
    Crutchfield supplies them free but their stereos generally cost more.
    You will also need an adapter to make the stereo fit (this is common when replacing a stereo).
  • Just for clarification, the round plastic thing gumball2 is talking about is easily found if you pull back the top of the carpet in the front passenger foot well. It is a circle with a V shape coming out of the top. After you drill the hole in the middle, blow it out if you have an air source or use a long piece of wire to run up into the hole to dislodge any blockage. Once you feel the blockage has been removed sufficiently, I would suggest using plumbers putty (available at any hardware store) to plug the whole. It will give you a good tight seal and it dries solid...and it's PLUMBERS it's desinged to stop leaks. Just follow the directions on the package, very easy to use. Hope this helps.
  • jmcc405jmcc405 Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 JGC and it is flashing its lights sometimes hours after the truck is off. It now also has a nasty habit of not starting. I am pretty sure there is a short in the security system. After many visits to get it "fixed", and after another no start, I shook the truck and it started. Typically when it fails to start all of the electrical comes to life in the truck and it simply will not crank. I am now trying to figure out how to either bypass the security alarm or disable it. Hope this helps.
  • nosligcnosligc Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. If you find out what is causing the problem, please let me know. By the way, i have already had the light switch replaced, that solved the problem for a while but it is back. Just like everyone else, the dealer can not seem to find the problem, yet if this is an issue, which based on the number of cases I have seen by searching on the net it should be, you would think Daimler/Chrysler/Jeep would do something about it rather than give the customers the run-around. Thanks again.
  • I'm driving down the interstate and then it acts like someone just turned the ignition key to off and all of the gauges on the instrument panel seem to power down. I understand this happens because the PCM feeds the gages via the computer CCD Bus, so you really arn't seeing the actual voltage, temperature, fuel level or even the oil pressure. Your seeing what the computer interprets the voltage, temperature, fuel level and oil pressure to be. When the PCM overheats
    and shuts down, the gages are all zero'ed to the left but everything else electrical still works, starter, power windows, radio, horn lights, etc. etc.. The problem is most likely the PCM. The dealership has them on back-order for 3 weeks so there must be a run on them, place your $600 order early!

    You can test the gages by pushing in the Odometer button and turning the key to RUN.

    When the PCM overheats and shuts down the CCD Bus,

    1. The Volt Meter reads zero volts. It returns to normal or about 12 volts after the PCM cools for 30 minutes and reapplies power to the CCD Bus and the gages. The engine will crank, the power windows and sun roof still work, so I listen to the radio while everyone honks and gives me the finger while I block traffic for 30 minutes. Eventually someone will come and help push it out of the road while I spread my love and affection for Chrysler / Jeep products. Meanwhile, you just might see me in the slow lane when I feel daring enough to take it out of the garage. Feel free to stop and help me push it out of the way. We can share stories about the Jeeps of yesteryear for about 30 minutes until this one fires up again!

    2. The Tempreture Gauge reads zero. It was running at the normal 200 - 210 degrees before it stalled and returns to about 180 after the PCM cools for 30 minutes.

    3. The Fuel Gage reads zero. It was 3/4 full before the stall and returns to 3/4 after the PCM cools for 30 minutes.

    4. The Fuel Pump doesn't run for the 1 second prime cycle when the key is turned to the RUN position. Bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay by jumpering connections (30 to 87) causes the Fuel Pump to run continiously (so's my proboem isn't with the fuel pump). The engine will still crank, but it won't run.

    This seems to be an over-heated PCM shut down of the fuel and Ignition Systems evidenced by the gages all going to the left. It hasn't happened, yet, on 70 F degree days. The PCM is covered under the Extended Federal Emissions waranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, I just turned over 82,000 miles and yes, Chrysler is alinating current owners and future buyers over 2,000 miles! It has been acting up for months and I have been buying the repair parts and discussing the problem with the mechanics in their dealership!
  • As far as the overheating problem, a thermostat is under $10 from the Autoparts stores. As for the rough idling, I don't see the a through cleaning of the IAS (Idle Air Speed) motor listed in the stealers laundry list! I'd get a Haynes manual and clean the IAS before wasting too much more time with the stealer. Spark plugs and wires are a good thing to change along with the air filter every once in a while too!
  • Make sure that you read the forums regarding stalling and dieing or dies. I have a 4.7 V-8 and the electronics are different between the 4.7 and the 4.0. If your gages are not zeroing to the left when your Jeep stalls, then your'e probably dealing with something different like the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, engine ground, bad gas cap, the IAS or one of many sensors. My failed Crank Position Sensor displayed an error code when it died, unfortunately, it hurt the PCM too. If your gages show fuel and voltage but it just won't start, the Crank Position Sensor would be a good place to start.
  • japusjapus Posts: 2
    I worked with a fellow once, who had a flat tire the night before he traded his car in..he was a welder so he welded his wheel to the car because he aparently lost all of his bolts/// also why dont you try to hammer the back loose witha rubber mallet, if not a mallet then a 2x4 may do it, ...just dont be heavy handed and break anything
  • I am new to this site. I am experiencing a problem with my Check Engine Light and have read every post regarding it. If anyone can give advice, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks :)

    1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) Limited
    65,000 Miles

    I haven't used my Jeep in 3 weeks. I started it up and door it for a drive to the gas station. Initially, I could not get out of first gear and assumed I must have a transmission problem. I let the Jeep sit and tried again. Now the gears seem to be shifting smoothly. The Check Engine Light is still on.

    Does it take long to go away if the problem is fixed?
    What are all these codes that people are talking about? How do I get them?
    Why else would this light go on?

  • gto1970gto1970 Posts: 2
    I did drill a hole in this today and water started shooting out at me. I blew it out with my air gun and it frains good now. To seal the hole I used a screw that had a shank smaller than the hole diameter but with a head larger than the hole. I put silicone all over the screw and poped it in there and wa-la it sealed.
  • Please help. My 2000 JGC Ltd 4.7 when inserting the key in ignition, the gauges turn clockwise counterclockwise clockwise until key is taken out. Put a Sears battery charger on try to start the gauges act normal but still no start. I do get a clicking noise at the starter. With out the battery charger and after attempting to start I get nothing except the crazy gauge movements. Then I hear this rapid ticking noise down by the fuse box, but not when the battery charger is engaged. The battery is a Mopar battery that was installed 4 years ago. Could it be that the battery has lost its amperage and still read 13.5volts.

    Anyone have any ideas before I buy a new battery and starter.

    Thanks :confuse:
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Definitely try cleaning the battery terminals first. Corrosion on the terminals could cause those symptoms. Do a search on "battery" on this thread and you'll come up with some other old messages.
  • hbaradhbarad Posts: 9
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Recently the heater - A/C fan (or blower) quit working. Occasionally, it will kick on for 4-5 minutes, the quit again. The jeep has the automatic dual zone Heat / A/C, and the fan doesn't work in any mode. (Auto, A/C on Manual, Heater on Manual, Fan only). The fuse looked good, but I replaced it anyway. I'll probably end up taking it to the dealer, but since I don't have a clue, I'd like some hints as to possible causes. I read in another post that the blower motor resistor (whatever that is) is know to fail on another, older, Jeep model. Anyone know if that problem continues in the JGC?
  • Would like to learn...

    Why is it that most Jeeps have a very heavy wind noise at higher speeds but then some are real quiet. For example two '04's, same body style, why would one be quiet and the other be loud?

    Thanks. :confuse:
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