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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • check your vacum line on your 4x4
  • check out your sway arm bushings they probly need changed they cost around $9.00 cach
  • are you sure that all 4 tires are the same size and same tread?
  • check out your sway arm bushings its the 2 little bars that run up and down right beside your front tires they cost around $9.00 each i just had the same problems and if you keep driving it like that after awhile it will start shaking so bad that you will have to pull over and start out again
  • bluenosebluenose Posts: 1
    Help! We own a 2002 Grand Cherokee (V8). It has the Quadra-Trac System. It currently has 150,000 kms on it. Last summer, we noticed a grinding noise coming from the rear whenever we were making tight turns (almost sounded like it was in 4 low). The problem seemed to get worse on warmer days (never had a problem with the noise in the winter). After several trips to the dealer, one the mechanics suggested that the fluids in the rear needed to be changed (?). This problems...until THIS summer, when the exact same noise/problem showed up again a few weeks ago. The transmission went on the rig and was changed a few months ago. The rear wheel bearing were changed a few months ago. I took the Jeep in to the dealer to have the fluids changed again last week, and they called me to say that it was the front wheel bearings that were causing the problem and that they needed to be replaced ("the fluids are fine"). Ok. $750 later, I now have new front wheel bearings, and the noise is still there (no better). They're now trying to tell me that it is the front differential bearing causing the problem, and that it needs to be replaced. My confusion is why did simply changing the fluids work well last summer, and why does this seem to be a "seasonal" problem? If it was the front differential going, wouldn't it have been a problem all year long (since last summer)? I can understand the concept of noise transfer from the front to the back, but you can actually FEEL the grinding in the rear when you're driving....I would appreciate any feedback that could be offered...7 months patience for getting milked by the dealer is non-existant! And I still need to fix the darn problem!
  • hey are you sure that when the last time the plugs was changed that the right plugs was put back in because i just had that problem also advance auto gave me the wrong size plugs they were for a different size motor so you amy want to pull one of you plugs out and check to see if thats the problem
  • check your belts and water pump because both will make that sound when they need changed
  • mtomassimtomassi Posts: 2
    it was a sensor
  • peck1peck1 Posts: 3
    I have the 2005 Grand Cherokee with the V6. Depending on the type of driving I am doing (highway or city) I am getting between 17.0 and 21.6 miles per gallon. I have found that if I am in the stop and go of the city I go down to 17 (at the lowest). However, if I am traveling on a major route and going anywhere from 45 to 60 miles per hour she seems to really love it and the MPG climb into the high 21's. I have found that if I stomp on the gas I get very poor gas mileage. However, if you gather speed gradually instead of punching it you average (mpg) climbs higher and higher.
  • aswainaswain Posts: 2
    I was parked on the street and had gone inside for about 20 minutes. When I came out, my Jeep had just rolled about 50 feet and hit a construction truck. Punctured the grill, radiator and A/C system --- to the tune of $2,500. Weird thing was that the accident had just happened --- after the Jeep had been parked for 18-20 minutes. I've been driving manuals for 25 years and never had anything like that happen. A friend said she vaguely remembers a problem with Cherokees popping out of gear. Anyone know anything about Libertys?
  • knichol05knichol05 Posts: 7
    Of course I stumbled across this forum because I'm searching the internet for details regarding this stumbling/bucking/rumbling problem. I have the 2005 laredo V-6, which is going to the shop for the third time. My wife and I are first time jeep owners and I wanted something safe to cart around our newborn. The first time we brought it in was because my wife was on the highway coming home and the transmission completely slipped and she could not accelerate! the engine revved and she had to ease off the highway! Needless to say I was very upset. The dealer said there was water in the tranny fluid and there was a bulletin regarding a seal or something that needed to be replaced. It currently has 3100k and the rumbling is getting worse. I'll let the forum know how the fix goes.
  • jeepgaljeepgal Posts: 2
    No there is nothing in the front passenger seat (no briefcases, no children, nada)

    The sensor must have some sort of short in it.

  • gmijoe1gmijoe1 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 GC with 85,000 miles. A few months ago a noise started in the front end. it starts at 35 and fades away around 50. it is a constant knocking, but it had no pattern. it almost sounds like something is wobbling, and knocking. it is pretty loud, but you can only hear it when you sit in the drivers seat. if you put your head to the left of the steering wheel, it is even louder. at first i thought that it was a CV joint, but i replaced them both, and no change. it is not a shock bushing either, cause i have checked them. my drive shaft also seems fine. it is getting louder, and it is driving me crazy. i would appreciate any advice.
  • ajeepguyajeepguy Posts: 3
    Mark, I looked at the picture; I'm not sure what that is around the filler neck on your radiator, but the fact that it doesn't extend all the way around would make it hard for the cap to seal properly. I would clean that out (put a piece of cloth or such down in the neck so that debris doesn't get into your radiator), then replace your cap with a PROPER replacement. If your system doesn't maintain pressure, it will overheat prematurely.
  • page2page2 Posts: 2
    I also "stumbled across this forum due to the issues that I am having with my 2005 GCL 2WD. After my vehicle sitting in front of my window in the parking lot at work, I came out to leave to a truck that would not start but flashed "Transmission Temperature too high". and the box that goes around the gear you are in all had squares around it. I called the dealership and they came out and fooled with the shifter and got it started. It still had all the boxes around it and the trans temp high warning was still on as well as the check engine light. They took it to the shop and the code it was throwing read trans temp too high. I left the vehicle and they replaced the computer in it. 3 weeks later, the exact thing happened again and I fooled with the shifter and got it started. This time, when I put it into reverse and started to back out on my way back to the dealer, the truck threw itself into park although I was traveling backwards. It about gave me whiplash and then when I got it back into drive, it would not come out of 1st gear. The dealership called Chrysler and they said they had not heard of this issue (hard to believe - seems to be the same issues as they had with their 1998 model). It still isn't fixed and I am very afraid of this vehicle. I hope you share this with others so no one gets hurt!
  • Your problem sounds like mine. The pressure regulator is going bad. It is located inside the gas tank you buy a new fuel pump/regulator $300.00. To confirm this is your problem hook a gauge to the fuel rail and your PSI should read about 47 - 50.
    If you get lucky and have it hooked up while the engine is acting up the gauge will be very erractic.
  • bwfbwf Posts: 2
    I'm considering buying a used Jeep - either a 1998 or 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport (just over 100,000 miles, $7,000) or a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (just under 100,000 miles on this one, $9,000).

    I have heard that the Jeep Grand Cherokees are less reliable than the standard Cherokee Sports. I am not exactly sure why this is - can anyone elaborate? Do you agree? I'd rather have the Grand Cherokee but don't want to buy a car that I'll have problems with.

    Also, I am buying this car for law school, and I will sell it again in 3 years after I graduate and move back to NYC. Which car will get me the most money if I re-sell? It seems to me that the Grand Cherokee will be a better bet.

    Thanks for your help. Any other suggestions are welcome - this is the first car I've bought...
  • g_man1g_man1 Posts: 3
    I also have an '02 GC Laredo, but I have the Selec-Trac 4x4 system with a limited slip rear differential. I, too, noticed a grinding noise coming from the rear last year, but it was (mostly) unpredictable and (worse) unrepeatable at the dealership. The only place in which it consistently produced the noise was coming home every night, pulling into the driveway. So I changed the differential and transfer case fluids, which temporarily solved the problem (why I'm not sure -- reduced stress, I imagine). But eventually it began again. Knowing that the standard answer from the dealer for an unpredictable problem noise would be that they could not reproduce it, I just let it get worse until it was a constant annoyance. I took it to the dealer, went for a short ride with the service manager to demonstrate the problem, and left it for repairs. It turns out that, in my case, the axle bearings on both side were completely worn out and the axles themselves were also worn beyond repair. Additionally, the added stress on the drive train had caused damage to the rear differential. All had to be replaced. Lucky for me it was all covered by warranty; that would have been a huge bill! So my advice to you would be to have the rear axle bearings replaced, and soon, before it becomes a major issue. Without bearings, the axles will not turn forever, as I'm sure you are aware.

    Incidentally, I never noticed a change in the symptoms when the weather changed, but then I live in Southern California where it never gets below freezing, unlike you folks in Canada. I suppose it's possible that thermal expansion/contraction due to ambient temperature could change the stresses on the drive train ...

    Another possibility is that the differential was failing first, and caused the damage to my axles ... ? Good luck with your problem.
  • g_man1g_man1 Posts: 3
    Hate to break it to you, but sometimes auto repair is a little trial-and-error, especially if the problem is abnormal. BUT, the good (?) news is that I have heard of odd electrical problems associated with 99 GCLs before. I have also heard (no hands-on experience) that these vehicles are highly sensitive to the battery voltage. In some of those cases, simply replacing the battery exorcised the electrical demons and everything worked the way it should. I'm not saying it will definitely fix your problem, but it's a low cost alternative that may be worth checking out. If your battery is the original unit, it must be 6-7 years old by now.
  • evan34evan34 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I have tried gradual starts and it doesn't seem to help too much. Basically, the range of mpg is from 11.0 mpg in the city (stop and go in Los Angeles) and up to 15.7 mpg on a 25 mile open stretch of freeway ( The best MPG I have got so far). I do notice the mpg climb on the freeway, but it seems to not want to go any higher than 15.7 mpg. This is driving me crazy and is the only thing that I regret. I drive between 30 to 50 miles a day and it really bothers me that I need to fill up my tank 1 to 2 times a week. Maybe my transmission is messed up or something?
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The Grand Cherokee was a brand new platform for the '99 model year and had its share of teething pains.
    Known problem areas are brake rotors/calipers as well as transmissions.
    I would suggest having a good mechanic look at it before you purchase a '99 GC.
  • bwfbwf Posts: 2
    Thanks for the heads up - I will definitely have our family mechanic check it out. What about GC models after 99? Were they better?

    And what do you all think about 1998/99 Jeep Cherokee Sports? I have heard that they are pretty reliable, but the ones I'm looking at have about 100,000 mi. on them. Anything to watch out for?

    Thanks again for your help.
  • ehunt1ehunt1 Posts: 1
    I've got some recent issues with my '98 GC. The thing will start (sometimes) but not idle. Then yesterday, I started it and it died. When I tried to restart it, nothing happened, not even a click when I turned the key. When I took the key out, I heard a fast clicking noise from the glove box area. I called my wife to come give me a jump, but in the 10 minutes it took her to get there it suddenly decided to work again. This morning it started fine.

    My wife has similar issues with her '00 GC. What is the deal with the electrical systems in these things? Does anyone recognize these symptoms? I'm kinda stuck here just replacing stuff until it gets better.
  • This sounds like the classic IAS (Idle Airspeed Motor) that needs a cleaning in the worst way. My IAS motor is mounted on the side of the throttlebody on my 4.7 V-8 :cry:
  • septjetseptjet Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new to these forums and am a first time poster. I just bought a 94 GCL from my wife's relatives and need info for 4wd shifting. They told me that in order to get the vehicle in and out of 4wd, you need to back up. Is this the normal procedure? I know they had problems before, but I now have it stuck in "4wd parttime" and can't shift back to 2wd. There is no owner's manual so I am a bit confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • afekete stated in #1369 on Jun 12, 2005 that a mechanic told him that there is a known bug with a sensor (cam shaft positions sensor I believe) which malfunctions and triggers an engine shutdown. But have yet to find an official report from Chrysler.

    I have a 1999 JGC 4.7 V8 that Shuts off while driving after reaching operating temperature.

    My Crank Position Sensor failed hard about 3 months ago and actually gave me an error code! I replaced it with a $50 one from the dealer and it ran flawless for 3 months before the intermittent stalls began, I suspect it has something to do with the hotter summer weather.

    To troubleshoot it, I assumed that the one from the dealer might be temperature sensitive and replaced it again with another one from the dealership, it didn't fix the problem. I've ordered yet another one from an on-line store assuming that the dealership has got a bad batch of temperature sensitive Crank Sensors. Would Chrysler really do that in order to sell more PCM's? Builds lots of Good Will for when I go shopping for my next car!

    I've got 2 different ideas on how Crank Position Sensors fail;
    1) They are usually all or nothing, eg, not intermittent.
    2) The Crank Position Sensor is a common problem with all Jeeps and that over time they become temperature sensitive. They need electricity to work and as such, they self heat and can go into thermal runaway which causes both spark and fuel systems to go crazy. Let the vehicle cool off for 20-30 minutes after which it runs like a champ until it heats up again. They're $50 from the dealership and $20 on the internet.

    My engine is running smoothly and then it's as if the ignition switch were just turned off. Pulling off the road and sometimes it fires back up immediately and other times I have to wait sometimes five minutes and other times 30 minutes for cooling. It will then restart and run flawlessly for another 5 miles and then do it again.

    Dealers have a difficult time working with this sort of problem as is intermittent. My dealer says that they have never heard of this problem so I won't be taking it to them!

    When my engine stalls, the gauges on the instrument panel don't seem to have any power;
    1. The Volt Meter reads zero volts. It returns to normal or about 12 volts after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
    2. The Temperature Gauge reads zero. It was running at the normal 200 - 210 degrees before it stalled and returns to about 180 after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
    3. The Fuel Gage reads zero. It was 3/4 full before the stall and returns to 3/4 after the engine cools for 30 minutes.
    4. The Fuel Pump doesn't run for the 1 second prime cycle when the key is turned to the RUN position. Bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay by jumpering connections (30 to 87) causes the Fuel Pump to run continuously. It continues to crank but it won't run.

    I believe that this is a PCM controlled shutdown of the Ignition System due to a dangerous condition, e.g., missing signal from a heat sensitive Crank Position Sensor.

    I have tested and replaced the following things in an attempt to fix the temperature related stalling problem. None of them has fixed the problem.
    1. Fuel pump/delivery (I have replaced the fuel pump),
    2. Replaced the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) 3 months ago and fixed a previous no-start problem.
    3. Replaced the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) again thinking I got a flakey one from the dealership.
    4. Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor.
    5. I've read that the O2 Sensors should measure to 5 - 7 ohms between the two white wires. Mine measure 14 Ohms between the two black wires.
    6. I have a K'nN Air filter. Another poster stated that the oil used in these filters can contaminate the MAP sensor. I removed and cleaned the MAP sensor.
    7. Removed and measured the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) throughout the entire range of movement with both a digital and an analog ohm meter. Measured smooth from 5,000 ohms down to 500.
    8. Removed and cleaned the IAS (Idle Air Motor).
    9. Measured the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor at 1600 ohms.
    10. Measured the Intake Air Temperature sensor at 3000 ohms.
    11. Removed and cleaned numerous grounds from the PCM to the engine block,
    12. I don't hear any gush of air when removing the Gas Cap, but neither does any of my other cars, so I don't think this could be a faulty gas cap.
    13. Coils? My 99 JGC is equipped with "Coil over Spark Plug" technology, e.g., 8 little high voltage ignition coils build into the individual spark plug caps. I doubt that all 8 are failing at once. Another post states that changing out the plugs every 3 months seems to help but believes that's just masking some other problem.
  • I'd revisit your IAS (Idle Airspeed Motor). Was there any change after you cleaned your "idol control whatever"? I have a 1999 JGC Ltd with the 4.7 V-8. My IAS is located on the drivers side of the Throttle Body. Vacuum leaks could cause this. Your Crankshaft Position Sensor could be getting ready to fail too.
  • soberaasoberaa Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee 6 cylinder that is overheating . I don't think the second or high fan is coming on. does anyone have any knowledge about this. any hel[ would be appreciated
  • kaceywaykaceyway Posts: 3
    Hi, I am new to the forum. Please forgive me if I don’t get all of the terminology quite right. I have a 2002 JGCL. For the last 8 months, it has been vibrating/shaking horribly. At first, it would only do it after it was off for a long period of time, now it does it all the time. I think you would call this a rough idle. It never “stalls” or dies (I think this is correct), it just seems like it is going to. The dealer has mentioned “misfiring”. As long as the Jeep is in park, it’s ok, but when I shift to drive, it shakes. Once I start driving, it’s ok. The check engine light keeps coming on with a code of P0301. This light started coming on Mar ‘04, and has been to the dealership 8 times since. First, I was told that the problem was the Oxygen Sensor, and it was fixed. I was told that if the light comes back on to bring it back b/c sometimes things go out in pairs. Sure enough 3 months later, the light was back on, and it got fixed again. A couple of months later the light was back on. I asked for a tune-up, transmission service, fuel injection cleaning, etc. to make sure the jeep was “right”. About 2 months later, light’s back on, goes back to dealership, they want to charge me to “fix” the same problem. My dad advised me to go to another Jeep dealership, & he met me there. Since then, I have been taking my jeep to them and they have been “fixing” it without charging me, the problem is, it isn’t fixed. My jeep was in the shop the entire week leading up to the 4th of July, and I took it back yesterday.

    Since last year, I have had two things done concerning the oxygen sensor, spark plugs replaced three times, wiring around the spark plugs replaced, something flushed and reprogrammed, and today he told me they were ordering a coil pack. Can someone please tell me if they have had these problems and what I can do next if the coil pack doesn’t work? The service guy told me that if this doesn’t work, he will take my jeep out back and torch it! Please Help! Also, I am experiencing wind noise on the driver’s side and the doors won’t automatically lock when I reach a certain speed anymore, what can this be? I’ve had the rotor problems like everyone else too, now I just want my jeep fixed. Should I just give up? -Kacey :cry:
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