Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

hihoney

Hello WT,

I am also having some issues with transmission and codes, not sure just yet what the codes are myself, however my mechanic is researching them tomorrow. I will be watching for responses to your concerns just in case. My mechanic just ran codes on my transmission this evening after he finished replacing my condensor today. He is suppose to call me tomorrow once he get's the feedback/definitions of what the multiple codes mean.

My jeep started feeling "transmissiony" (not changing as readily as normal) and got progressively worse in about 2 weeks time. I took the car up to the shop, to let them give me an estimate. They called after running code said it needed a new transmission, multiple codes $1,500. I had to pick my jeep up because my husband had to go out of town for 3 days with business and I had to get my son back and forth to school. When I picked the jeep up, it was no longer having the transmissiony symptoms, it was, and still is changing fine. I asked him what they did, he said they just cleared codes. Don't get me wrong, I am glad the jeep is not having the symptoms, but that dawg just don't hunt. I have since switched mechanics, and while having my condensor replaced today for half the cost of what my old mechanics estimate was, he ran codes again because the engine light came back on, so I am hoping that it is minor and he can just repair what's wrong and save me some money.

What I like about this new mechanic is he has land and works there from his workshop. He also asks, do you want me to get the part, or are you getting the part. Because I also have a window that won't roll down, they had called to get a price on the part for it locally. The only people who carried it locally was the jeep house. The part is a window regulator, and jeep wanted like $350. for it. I get online and type in key words jeep grand cherokee, window regulator, and presto I was able to order one for $109. including shipping. Needless to say I feel pretty good about making this discovery and finding my new mechanic. I would not have been able to repair my window for a while had it not been for finding the part. My mechanic and his wife asked me where I found the part so cheap, so by the time I picked my jeep up today, they were thanking me for the tip, and said they had been on the horn with them on and off for different stuff since I gave them their website and they were soon becoming fast friends. I rock man! LOL!

cdplayer

Hi. I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee Overland. What seems to be wrong with your vehicle could be as simple as replacing the oxygen sensor or sensors,(mine has four) or as difficult as replacing a failed catalytic convertor. I would try the oxygen sensor first. My guess is the #2 is the sensor to replace. Not sure which is which though.
If you have already done this my shop CD for this vehicle says the error code will self erase after 40 trip cycles. This is where your coolant temperature must start below and rise above 160 degrees F. Then must rise another 40 degrees F. This would be one trip cycle. One down and 39 more to go. This procedure will erase the error codes only if no further emmissions failures occur.
The error code can be erased also by a mechanics DRB scan tool. Hope this helps some.

cdplayer

You may have 2 to 4 sensors depending on the engine size. Since this information was not in you question I looked at all engines available for your model. In each diagram the sensors were located on the top of the exhaust pipes,or when the pipe angled down,pointed forward. In the 4.7 diagram with four sensors, each exhaust pipe has two. Leading directly from the exhaust manifold is a mini convertor with a sensor located near it. Then further down the same pipe and just before the larger catylitic convertor is the second sensor. The same will be on the other exhaust pipe. Hope this info helps some.

knichol05

Im in NY and I had the same tranny problems with the GC I bought 3/2005. The 5th time it broke down, my wife and baby were in the middle of a busy highway. The 6TH time they were also driving around and the jeep became immobile in the middle of the road. I filed for the lemon law and won 1/2006. Chrysler immediately filed to oveturn the decision. I had to go to court and I won again so now I am just waiting the date to return this thing and get my money back. I think it was worth it because even though it appears to be running fine now, my wife was irrate when it broke down and I really question the long term effects of have a tranny constantly worked on. Also, a month ago I brought it in for a 7th time because tranny fluid was leaking all over my garage.

whattodo2

I am looking at a nice 1994 JGC to buy, and am comfortable with the repairs that have been done and the quirks left undone except for one. I was told the actuator switch (do I have that one right??) that takes the AWD in and out of 4WD is wearing out - and that it will stay in 4wd but that that is ok (except for the gas mileage and the "skipping" felt when taking a sharp turn at 3 mph or less!) I am a bit confused as the dash "lights" show only two wheels lit (as if it never goes into 4wd) but the pavement skipping is just as expected for 4wd... and it drives like 4wd when off road. The reason for not repairing this is the part alone is $800..... It seems like this is ok to drive, but I have two questions I hope someone can help with. First, if this is left alone will it hurt anything else? Second, is it OK to drive in 4wd at highway speeds (I don't have the owners manual but have been told other makes of 4wds give this warning).

I hope someone can help! Thanks.

hotpinksexy

I own a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and have had some problems with the factory alarm. Whenever the weather is a little cool, my alarm with go off for no reason. On top of that, my control center flashes as if my battery died and I have to constantly reset it. These two problems occured at the same time. What is going on with the electrical system in my Jeep!!! Please help....

alan93

The passenger door window came lose on the front end.
It still goes up and down with power switch but when it goes down, the front part of window pane falls way down making the window crooked. It is fine right now as long as I keep it all the way up.

My question is , is it easy to pull the door panel off and fix myself? I would hate to guess how much this would cost to have fixed. It seems like it should simple but I haven't tried to pull the door panel off yet. So I don't even know how easy that is yet. :confuse:

seat73

95 Grand Cherokee Error Code 41 received via the dashboard display - (Error Code 41 - An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit) - What exactly does this error mean? The Alternator & Battery have recently been replaced, the connections to both were checked/cleaned, wires to relay block and grounds were mostly checked - The battery was old and needed to be replaced(weak)/ The car wasnt run much since the Fall and needed a jump start to start. The Alternator gave the impression it wasnt charging properly tested as such with the handheld and was replaced as well. After replacing both, we get an error code 41 and the dashboard AMP Meter goes to DRAIN/wont charge. One suggestion from a Jeep dealer was that the ECM may have been on its way out and now died a little further. Are there any other options to check? How can you check the ECM? (I only have a VoltOhm Meter handy) - Thanks in Advance - John

dixiecrawler

Sounds like it's in the wiring or socket. I have a 2000 GCL and the same taillight had the same problem as yours, but I could get the bulb from the other taillight to work just fine. If the actual socket looks bad, try cleaning it and then try again. If this doesn't work, use a test light to find out if there's any power to the socket while the lights are turned on. If not, find the wire in the socket that controls it and see if you have power there. If not, find out where that wire begins and start testing. If it does have power, replace your socket.

brian211

Have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee ltd. Its been fine save for one problem. Last Jan after a heavy rain I found a puddle inside under in front of driver seat. Headliner was also wet. Checked around windshield. Saw an opening where roof railing goes under windshield molding. Caulked it and dealer did same and cleaned drains. Haven't gotten as much water and headliner dry since. But after heavy rain still wet down there. Dealer then tightened a gromit on fire wall. Still water coming from some location. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

howie56

I also have the same problem w/the surging and have no problem with the dealer or factory engineer having the problem happening to them and now they are trying to tell me that it is a "NORMAL" :confuse: happening with the torque converter (B. S.) - - in other words , what they are saying is that there is a problem , but they don't have a clue how to fix it , so there is no problem to them :mad:

81trekker

In my 25 years of off-road driving, the most important factors are good tires, adequate ground clearance, and skid plates on four vital areas. If your vehicle is missing one of these, you ability to make it home is in doubt. The jeep I rented didn't have adequate skid plates. Case closed!

I was told by a Nissan salesman that the traction control included the ability to pull out with only one wheel turning.
I said, "thanks, but don't plan to get into that kind of situation". - 81 Trekker

P.S. Sorry about the delay in my reply. Something reminded me to review that BS "Jeep Trail Rated" label today.

blkhemi

Your salesman just wanted to get you to drag that piece of crap off of the lot. Traction control on the Nissan will not enable it to pull out with only one will. JGC's that are Vari-Lok axle equipped can send 100% of the engines power to one single wheel. No one has perfected this. CASE CLOSED.

blkhemi

I'm usually a jack of all trades when it comes to Jeeps. But I just recently started back driving my '01 JGC Laredo 4.0 and just found out today(in 98 degree heat mind you) that my cooling fan isn't coming on. I put a new fan motor on last year, so I'm pretty sure it's not this one this time. I need to know where is the relay for it. Someone said in the fender and I'll have to remove the front bumper, headlight, and battery. I'm at a loss. Please help.

BTW: First relay in 105k miles. I must've gotten one of the best WJ's made as this truck has been very little problematic.

sooperstar

Hello!! I have an '02 Cherokee Limited, and am looking for someone who has the same. I do not have my owner's manual with me, and was wondering if someone who has access to one could tell me the recommended maintenance for 60,000 miles (Schedule ? I would appreciate it!

Thank you!!! :shades:

stever

The Edmunds Maintenance Guide has Maintenance Service info, but it's not broken down by schedule (I think it's all for "normal" service).

Steve, Host

sooperstar

Thank you Steve, that link was very helpful!

lyonsroar

The climate control system on my 2004 Grand Cherokee Limited started acting up about 1.5 yrs ago. The system is the dual zone climate control system that allows for different temperatures for the driver and passenger. The first thing I noticed was an occasional strange sound coming from behind the dashboard. It sounds like a hose being twisted or crushed. Next the system started acting strangely. The AC turns on by itself if I hit a pothole, bump or rough road. I am constantly having to manually turn off the AC. Also, variations in temperature. The temp will be set at 80 with it much cooler air coming out of the vents (AC not on when this happens). Also, switching from dashboard to floor vents, the air will still come out of dashboard vents until I turn the system off and turn it back on, which seems to "reset" it. I have been to two dealers. One said it was the heater head and replaced it. This did not fix problem. Another dealer wanted to do same thing. Anyone have a similar problem? Thanks

blankster

My '04 Limited does the same. It sounds like its grinding nuts... Even when it's off. I had the HVAC blender doors etc replaced last fall under warranty and that fix lasted about a week. It's going back in next week under warranty. Its a major repair and requires the dash to be removed. I'll keep you posted as to what happens this time.

mandymusika

Hi Everyone,

We have had our JGC for 2 years. In Oct 05 we replaced all rotors with after market NAPA slotted and cross drilled rotors. Got new ceramic brake pads. Caliphers were not replaced (told they were ok) but they did do something to them - refinished? Not sure there. Here's the problem. It seems off and on (and we only notice it when we go down a muddy road - gravel after it rained type of thing, or 4x4ing) but we get a burnt brake smell coming from the front wheels. Could the mud be causing problems or is that just when the smell is the worst so we notice it? Not sure there.
What do you guys think is the problem? I know these trucks are bad for their brakes but after spending $1200 on all new top of the line (non jeep parts lol) you'd think i'd be free and clear.
Any sugggestions would be appreciated.

tHanks
mandy

lyonsroar

Thanks for the info. Your description of the sound is perfect. Let me know if the dealer determines what the problem is. Good luck.

glossygrl345

:confuse: I had the same problem. like today I went to the store and everything was running fine. When I came back out nothing. there is power to the engine. But, when I go to turn the key it doesn't even turn over. does anyone know what may becausing this. I think it may be the electronic ingition module?

stever

The recent mpg posts have been moved to the Jeep Grand Cherokee: Real World MPG discussion.

Please report on your mpg over there (and if you have ideas for making the mpg better, post that info there too). Thanks!

Steve, Host

mopartsdave

I have a V8 JGC, loaded to the hilt with options. Prob is, the temp hand stays in the 210 220 range, does not boil water, have done all I can do. Runs well, stays about 180 while moving but climbs to 210/220+ while stopped. Electrical prob? as it does not boil over. Maybe a bad sending unit, gage??? no other probs and have 200tho+ miles and we love it other than.

tritchey

WARNING: Mechanical Dolt onboard

Have a '05 Grand Cherokee and someone broke off my rear windshield wiper arm.Only the base remains. :confuse: :mad:

Question: After removing the top nut holding the arm onto the vehicle (under the plastic cover), how do I remove the remainder of the broken mechanism from the JeeP? It does not seem to want to come off, and I'm fearful of forcing it off the threaded stem. :sick:

Guidance from anyone who knows my next step(s)?? :confuse:

In advance my gratitude goes to you. And my next offspring when it arrives. :shades: (No worry. Surgery has me neutered.)

plowe2

Hi,
I have a 1996 GJC with 120,000 miles on it. For the last 2 months, I have been getting intermittent grating noises from the engine when accelerating. There is a metallic grating sound when accelerating; it's more prominent at lower speeds. The sound occasionally lingers on after releasing the gas, but is usually heard while accelerating. Would you help?

Txs,

Peter Lowe

bdmoore13

Over the last couple months I have had intermittent idle issues. While driving, car runs fine, but when at stop with brakes applied, Idle jumps up and down, then eventually stalls out. When car is placed in neutral at stops, It won't stall but RPMs still jump up and down between 1200 and 200 RPMs. Engine will always (so far) start right back up after a stall. I noticed after a long freeway trip, problem stops for awhile.

Could it be an issue with the throttle position sensor? Could it just need to be cleaned? I admit my maintenance schedule hasn't been the best, although I recently replaced all plugs, wires, rotor, and distributor cap.

99jpgrndcherok

I need to replace the headlights on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. The lenses are corroded and the gentleman at the body shop said I would have to replace the entire headlight package. I found a few online for about $100 for the pair, but I am not sure if everything is included that I need. The price just seemed really inexpensive. Some say that the product they are selling doesn't include the wiring or bulbs. I just wanted to know how big of a deal it would be to purchase them separately and install them myself. Should I just go through the body shop and pay the arm and leg they are requesting?

blankster

Dealer is saying that they replaced the duct work once and wont do it again and I will have to live with the noise. They call it normal. I call it BS and makes me want to dump it and get a Lexus RX350. They will check it again tomorrow. My 300C has dual zone climate control and is very quiet. The noise is really aggravating my wife.

blankster

You just need to replace the plastic housing (headlight assembly). There is no electrical. See your owners manual on replacing bulbs.

bdmoore13

The bulbs were cheap (less than 15 bucks) and easy to install on my 1996 Cherokee. If it's just cosmetic, your old wiring should be able to do the job.

torney

ERR KEEPS POPING UP WHENEVER I TRY TO PLAY A CD TRIED CLEANING DISC COMPARTMENT AND REARRANGING THE CDS NOTHING WORKS ANY IDEAS

forsche

I have a 1995 and a 1996 and they both did the same thing. On the back of the intake there is a there is an idle senser that controls the idle speed. Sometimes there is a build up of stuff on it and it gets sticky and will not modulate properly. You can sometimes take it off and clean it off and it will work or you might have to replace it. There are two small screws that hold it in so be careful not to drop them when removing it. When you take it off you will see a metal plunger the size of your pinky finger. Have a look remember its at the back of your intake manifold. Idling problems can occur with poor battery connections as well. Have a good day and I hope this helps.

forsche

scsing

Hey John,

I am having the exact same problem getting the driver side bottom bolt off of the shroud. Were you able to find a solution?

Dave

forsche

I've talked to mechanics that say they would have to have a look at the problem but would can afford $105 per hour labour. I'll do it myself before I pay that much. Maybe I'm cheep.

Problem

When turning the wheels pitch and the outside wheel in the turn leaves rubber marks on the pavement. The alignment checks out good. I was told I should change the track bar but it looks good and Napa auto parts gave me the wrong one anyways.

The problem doesn't always happen. Sometimes it turns very smoothly and then sometimes it will not turn easily at all and there is alot of resistance.

I have a 1995 Grand Cherokee Orvis edition.

Could someone please give me some advice as to what to look for.

My engine also overheats sometimes when it is hot out. Does anyone know if the fans on these are dual speed.

Thanks.

I also have a air louver linkage that is broken under the dash and it is used to go from defrost to floor. The part is 31 dollars and it cost about 1000 dollars shop time to change out. Isn't that great.

Chow for now.

mandymusika

does anyone have any ideas?

stever

Try asking in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion too.

Steve, Host

longfellow

following may relate to problem? thermostat defective,
Cooling fan senser not working, defective water pump,
head gasket bad,defective radiator pressure cap,cooling fan motor bad,insufficient air flow to radiater,rubber flow hose collapseing ( Rare),radiator needs replaceing,
and so on.

longfellow

Had same problem. Go to a garage and have a quick read on motor temp with infra-red temp meter. Compare infra-red read to temp guage read. Your probably correct that guage is defective. Shouldn,t cost you a cent.

beaver07

I have a JGC 01 w/ 4.7L V8. I can't find the TCC solenoid and jeep doesnt list one. Is the transmission sol in the valve body what i'm looking for?

longfellow

Generally vehicles have a heat sensor switch in the engine block. When this senses that the engine is getting to a certain temperature' it turns the cooling fan on. This sensor switch could be defective.

longfellow

Possible continuity wireing connection problem in line with items you mention.May be a break inside wireing insulation causeing intermittant fan to run or not run.
this may be the reason parts replacement hasn,t worked.
Check out wireing and all connections you can get to in this circuit. Do some wire wiggleing that may cause a
intermittant open that creates this problem.
just a idea to look at or consider.

longfellow

It seems there is no logic why they kept replaceing the drive shaft when this did not resolve your vib. problem the first time they changed it.
there,s a lot of things that can be causeing this vib. between 70 and 80 mph.. It could be just a front tire that starts to resonance at this speed. Do a tire balance test on both front tires that covers this speed range. Inspect all front end shocks supports for any signs of failure indications.Make sure all grease fittings are properly greased.Just a few ideas.

bdmoore13

Forsche, You are the man! 40 bucks and an hour later my car is running great, with a new idle air control valve self-installed!

Thanks again for your help!

lyonsroar

Thanks for the update. I seriously doubt that the noise is mormal. It amazes me that Jeep dealers are unable to fix problems with Jeeps. This is my 3rd GC and will probably be my last. Good luck.

blankster

I agree. The RX350 will be at the top of my list come this fall. I still might go with the '07 Overland but that decision would be based on price alone. I suspect that they (jeep) might be giving them away by then. Also its interesting to do a used price comparison between Grand Cherokee and the RX.

jwayne

I have a 2006 Limited GC with the same issue! It has been in the shop for 5 days and they have replaced the drive shaft too.

Mr_Shiftright

Thanks for the helpful post and for supporting the forums!

dixiecrawler

In reference to your frontend, by "pitch", you do mean they lean to the side, right? I'm assuming that since yours does this it is four-wheel drive. If I'm correct in assuming this, that's just what they do. I own a 2000 Grand 2WD, and my wheels and tires lean into a sharp turn a little, but probably not as much as your's do. As far as leaving black rubber marks on light pavement and concrete, that can have alot to do with how fast and how sharp you are turning. Full-time 4WD's will do this because the axles are pretty much fighting or trying to bind against each other, and of course, the rear axle wins, therefore helping to "push" the front axle through its turn. If yours is a 2WD like mine, the sharper and faster the turn, the more marks you will leave. Mine does it due to oversize tires, which causes a little bit of sidewall roll as the front tires are pushed through a turn. I hope this helps you out a little! -dixiecrawler

irishred

I also have a 2 month old 2004 GC SE and I am having major problems with what sounds like the same "vibrating" noises in front end. I have had it to the garage 5 times and had numerous things done and it seems to just be getting worse. Did you have any luck getting yours fixed and if you did could you PLEASE tell me what they did? This is very annoying! Thanks!!