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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • :) XScout -- on my 2004 Jeep GC, I had a mouldy smell from the a/c, indication of a clogged drain... I found the drain (right side, through firewall, plastic tube, fairly low) and forced water from the garden hose into it for 10 seconds, which then backflowed with whatever was blocking the tube. But in my case, the real problem was that I parked the vehicle on an uphill, which always kept the last bunch of water in the a/c rather than allowing it to drain (like downhill parking would have). Sold the Jeep -- very reliable compared to my 2002 and 1999 (it of the warped brakes) Grand Cherokees. But I love 'em... and love my 2005 even more... My logic is, if you buy the base model, these are a great bargain. (I think if I bought one for $35K and had so many problems, I'd feel cheated...). :)
  • It appears my mechanics are having difficulty repairing this problem...I have the 4.7 V8, will that TSB also work for my vehicle? Does this permanently resolve the problem?
  • I think the V8 comes with the 545RFE transmission -- the TSB only pertains to the W5A580 transmission (6 cylinder engine). It could have a similar problem (contamination of trans. fluid) but more likely has a computer problem. But that is only a guess and one at the far fringes of my knowledge of transmissions. The good (?) news is that once a car has been in production for a while, the experienced mechanics have seen most problems more than once, and figure out how to deal with them -- even if there isn't a TSB put out on how to do it. I guess the best advice is, never buy a new model car in its first year of production! And not just Jeeps, but maybe especially Jeeps.
  • Did you decide what to buy? My recommendation would be a 2004 JGC Laredo. Very good prices on these -- maybe get one for $12-15K. (High depreciation is a fact of life with JGC but in this case benefits the buyer). This model has most of the bugs associated with the WJ model worked out. That is, the pulsing brakes, driveline problems, electric window stoppage, etc., issues found in earlier WJ's seem to have been resolved -- see for a list of TSBs on the WJ, showing which apply to which years). The 4.0 I6 engine is remarkably reliable -- wish they had kept in the 2005 (compared to the 3.7, the 4.0 had a few less HP but more torque at lower RPM and got better gas mileage!).
  • OK, I'm having the same problem, which seems to be caused by falling pine needles and debri from trees. My question is, how in the heck do you remove the bottom of the ac unit to clean all of that stuff out. I took the motor out and a sensor located next to the ac coils and was able to get an air hose up in to blow out. I then flushed with water and it was running out of the drain, which by the way I found going into the frame. This think is driving me crazy and the car is starting to smell of midew.
    Thanks for any help anyone has.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    My JGC is a 1997 model, but what I did to clear the drain passage was to drill a hole in the side of the case at the bottom (facing the passenger seat) and then use a probe and compressed air to blow it out. My local hardware store has small (approx.1/4 inch) rubber plugs at about $.08 which I resealed the holes with. I was able to pull the debris out through another hole I drilled near the drain exit. I don't think you can remove the bottom of the ac unit without very major dashboard disassembly.
  • Just got inside from working on the drain. I drilled a hole along the frame wall inside of the engine compartment to access the drain, which some design tech probably did just for jun. I removed the motor from underneath the housing on the interior of the car, motor located under right foot of passenger side. I was able to rig some tubing, small going into drain, bigger over that, then into shop Vac. I flushed the inside area of the AC coil with water from garden hose then sucked out the water through the drain into vac. Some major yuck came out so I hope I got it. Thanks for the help. they must of built the car around the heating and air system.
  • I have read that the sealant won't last for long. My jeep currently has the water leaking into the transmission problem and a problem with the cluster computer not comunicating with the computer under the hood...or at least thats what the guys at the dealership said. Is yours having the torque converter replaced as well?
  • Hi, I am happy to have found this discussion board and welcome any advice. My car was due for an oil change (though under 3000 miles over 7 months). The car was inspected with oil change on December 28, 2004. It was running great, not a single problem. In July, I checked the oil (with help of friend) and it was below the line. So we added one container of oil. We drove about 100 miles, no problem. Several days later I went to use my car and the transmission wouldn't change gears but would rev really high. Eventually it would go. It would get stuck around 35 mph. The mechanic said that the transmission would be $1700 and replacing rusting parts would be $1500 and that the car was not worth putting the money into (it has 155,000 miles). Someone told me that there could have been too much oil. Any opinions on this? Is there a way to fix this without spending so much money? I am unemployed and therefore won't get approved for a car loan. Besides, I love my JGC. :cry: I am hoping I could do some research to find ways to repair the car less expensively.
    Thank you very much!!
  • mtelseymtelsey Posts: 10
    mine is back now, (aug 17) so far so good. they have had to flush the transmission 8 times, and finally all the symptoms went away. no new tranny or rebuilt one. only thing new was they put in a new torque converter, cuz chrysler told them too. the torque converter alone did not fix the problem. they put the seal on, they told me it lets the water cascade over that area instead of being able to pool on a seal and leak inside. had it back going on 2 weeks now, and so far so good. checked the fluid, still sparkly red, seems to be good, i am keeping my fingers crossed. again, the dealer i had treated me good, i am very impressed w/ them, it is chrysler that needs some work. for starters a recall on that a/c leaking into tranny fluid problem would be good...
  • my 95 Cherokee Sport L6 4.0L (83k mi) has developed a small oil leak from where the oil filter mount housing mates with the engine block. At first I thought the filter was loose; it was OK. Then I thought the pan gasket was the problem, so I replaced it. But now I can see the oil seep (drip....drip) from where the oil filter is connected to the block. It only seeps out with the engine running. But the oil runs down on the pan, starter, tranny, etc and makes a mess.

    I tried to remove the filter mount housing with a torx (star) T60 bit but it wouldn't budge. There must be another way to take it off. Any ideas would be helpful.
  • I had read a few times over about the resistor failiure causing the blower to fail. That is a very common problem apparently that Jeep has failed to acknowledge. First, I just want to blast Jeep for denying the problem. It is pretty obvious, the design is flawed. I had a toyota that had no problems, that Toyota recalled with 125,000 miles, fixed and gave me a free rental car. See the difference?????? Anyway, enough about Jeep not standing behind it's product. I had the same resistor failure in my Jeep. The reason that I am posting this message is that there are a few more tidbits of information that I discovered and would have found helpful.. My blower failed intermittently,( working somtimes not other times) at first, then would not shut off. What I discovered, in addition to the resistor burning up, the plug that inserts into the resistor had melted, and was smoking. It short circuited and was a very dangerous condition. It was actively smoldering when I discovered it and too hot to touch. Luckily, i had some gloves handy and was able to unplug it, although it had melted together. If your blower is working only sometimes, make this repair immediately to prevent having a Jeep bonfire. The other point is to say that you should inspect this plug very carefully. According to a Jeep salvager that I talked to.....If you are replacing the resistor, You will likely have to replace that plug. Both are available at the Jeep dealer. I paid 110 for the resistor and 35 for the plug. If you are even remotely mechanically inclined, replacing this yourself will save you about 300 bucks. It took me about 45min total. The resistor is the black box underneath the glove box, about the size of a pack of cards, and is held in place with two screws. It has two sets of wires. One set is the input plug, the other is the power output for the fan (black and red) The black and red wires appear to go into the dash into neverland. They thread up into the dash, then come back out and plug into the blower (which is also under the glovebox in plain sight) Save yourself alot of trouble and just snip the original wire and dont attempt to thread the new wire up into the dash. I was so busy trying to figure out where the wire went, i didnt see that it came right back out in plain sight ( a time saver for ya) Oh, and lastly, there are a couple types of Jeep resistors. One for automatic climate controls and one for manual. Get the right one.
    Well, that's all that I learned from fixing mine. I hope that saves you some time, trouble, and aggravation.
    Off to trade in my Jeep for a Toyota.
  • I am having the problem with my 93 JGC Ltd not starting. It runs for 2-3 secs and then dies. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the O2 sensor, replaced and it still dies on ignition. It has no rhyme or reason as to why it stalls and will take hours to days to be able to start it. Also while driving the security light will come on and stay on for an undetermined amount of time shutting itself off at random. I had the after market remote start/locks removed and the original reinstalled and it still does this. If anyone out there can give me a reason why it won't start, please let me know!!!
  • A possibility for a problem like this is the fuel system. Easiest and cheapest thing to do is replace the fuel filter, which could easily be clogged on a '93. Presumably it runs sometimes? Does is falter on uphills, but run okay down hill? Fuel filter. You can also run a can or two of fuel system cleaner through it. If that doesn't work, next thing to check would be the fuel pump. That would about do it for me, those steps have worked for me in the past, so if they don't work, the next stop would be the Jeep Dealer.
  • The only thing that is wrong with it is that it won't start. Once I get it started, it runs just fine and will start up multiple times without incidence. Could it be not starting secondary to a spark plug or alternator problem as it runs for 2-3 seconds?
  • I had that exact problem on my 4.0L, the remedy was a repair kit from the dealership, the kit contained 2 O-Rings dont remember the Mopar Part number but i do remember it was fairly inexpensive. the hardest part is getting the Filter elbow off the block, to do it i had to order a 9/16 Allen wrench, u might be able to get a loaner from a local autozone if u have one near by, otherwise i know a parts store might sell one.
  • Hey Chef, thank you for the tip. I tried to remove the filter elbow mount (a Torx T60 bit fits) but I was afraid if I applied too much torque, I would bust the filter elbow. How did you get your filter elbow off? Did you need a lot of torque?
  • pwestpwest Posts: 1
    Just a little information. I don't know if this is the problem or not but it's worth a try and real easy. Sometimes in these engines the PVC system gets clogged with oil (4.0). It makes the gaskets blow out all over. This may be why you need to replace them. I just had the same thing happen to my Jeep. We took the valve cover off and cleaned out the PVC system. Good as new. The leaking started with the same gasket at the elbow of the oil filter that you are talking about
  • Have a '94 Grand Cherokee with the same motor and same problem. Like Chef said, get the kit and remove the elbow. I hosed down the whole elbow with penetrating oil to clean it off and to aid in easier removal. Since it was hard to remove and don't need anymore tools lying around, I used a bit that was held by a vise grip wrench and slipped a small segment of old copper pipe over the handle to extend it for better leverage. I figured if I could get it off myself I'd save myself a lot of $ and if I'd break it, then I'd pay the shop anyways. Sure enough it came off after a bit of struggling. (If it doesn't want to budge try tapping the handle lightly with a hammer to help unfreeze it.) Don't know of your motor is exactly the same (no PVC system here) but hope this helps. gl.
  • There was a TSB on this. Our 2001 GC Limited ate up brakes and rotors. DC came out with a kit to stop the warping. it works. We have not had a problem for some time. In fact the Jeep has 72,000 miles and I'm about to turn it back in to the leasing company after 5 years. You need to search the internet. Look at Alpar and also other jeep fourms and you'll find the TSB. DC paid to have my done. It was at about 38K miles and we have not had a problem since. No more warping.....

    You can tell the kit, the calipers are kind of a bright steel look.
  • I just had a mechanic take a quick look at the JGC and he said the problem with it is definitely not a fuel filter or pump, but rather that the starter kill on the factory security system is working even when it's supposed to be off and killing my start. Anybody have any idea on how to disable the starter kill? I had a after market security system w/starter kill in there previously and the factory system was still killing the start. He said I just have to find someone who knows how to disable the starter kill and I'll be fine. please help
  • I am losing coolant from a small pipe which I can see under the engine. The coolant only comes out when the engine is running. I'm losing about half a litre for every twenty miles I drive. Has anyone else experienced this problem and is it easy to rectify?
    My local dealer is quoting about sixty pounds sterling (approx 100 US Dollars) to replace the pipe plus two hours labour. Does this seem about right?!

    Great reading about all the topics, I really like the vehicle and hope this is just a small issue!
  • Yo Gomes512, thanks for the reply. I'll get the kit. I was really applying some force with the Torx T60 wrench on that oil filter elbow (counter-clockwise) and it wasn't budging. I'll use the copper pipe trick for for leverage. Any other tips would help. Thanks.
  • yes sir 93 white peeling like hell
  • same fricken problem i ran it out of gas one time and have had constant problem '
    even when full of gas have u tried resetting computer it worked for me abunch but not anymore
  • We are in the same boat. We have a 2000 JGC with 85k that the dealer is unable to fix. It will die at intersections, idle radically at higher than normal rpm an idle and then operate normally. We have spent $1000 so far without any improvements. :(
  • We own a 2000 Grand Cherokee with 85k miles and the dealer is unable to figure out what is wrong. The problem(s) come and go as they please and run the gamut of high / eratic idle, stalling at intersections and downshifting prematurely when slowing down. The dealer has so far tuned it up and replaced a $535 pc board.
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • This refers to the NAG1 (W5A580) transmission as used in the 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee prior to June 2005 and TSB 21-011-05A TRANSMISSION - SHUDDER WHEN TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH ENGAGES.

    I took my Jeep to Fair Oaks Jeep in Chantilly, VA for its oil change and asked about the TSB. The service writer hadn't heard of it, but we looked it up. The service tech looked at my transmission and noted that the dipstick tube is in solidly, and that water from the a/c doesn't go near it. No further action required. Based on this anecdotal evidence, it appears the water-from-a/c-in-transmission problem isn't that common. Anyone with this problem can find the TSB and get the dealer to fix your Jeep accordingly.
  • I just got my 05 back today after 7 days of repair...they replaced the torque converter, flushed the tranny fluid, and sealed the dipstick tube for foreign body materials...After driving it all day, it appears to run very smooth. I am holding my breath for know though. The dealership did supply my rental. GOOD luck to anybody who has the same problem.
  • mine has been back since the 17 or 18 of august. and so far so good. still running fine, none of the other issues, and tranny fluid still clear. let us all keep our fingers crossed...
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