Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

seat73

FIX: Replace Bad wire harness section. The molded rubber terminal connector with two ground wires that connects to the rear of the alternator was faulty (broken within the rubber moulded head) causing an intermittent connection when cold - Apparently when the motor warmed up the rubber would flex and the connection (ground) would break causing the system not to charge the battery. A single person using a meter might need to use test probes with aligator clips to attach to the sections to be tested, this leaves the mechanics hands free to move and manipulate the wires freely to test for breaks. A replacement harness section was acquired from a local auto junk yard (at $5.00)

pool92005

I to have the exact same problem with a few others......i have replaced ALL of the brakes, somebody keeps telling me to replace the axle bearings. Does anybody else have an exuast leak? if so go to www.NHSTA.com if we file enough complaints they will recall

forsche

Thanks for the advise. My Jeep is a all wheel drive. It is in four wheel drive all of the time. I've talked to another mechanic that said it was my viscous coupler in the transfercase that was causing the problem. And I found out that the part costs $1700 and the shop time would cost another $400. Thats the price I pay for having a luxury vehicle.

Forsche

mvandier

My Grand Cherokee Ltd 1998 is very noisy when making a sharp turn, while the tires seem to rasp on the road, leaving impressive black trails. This only happens after having driven the car for at least 20 minutes, making a sharp turn or manoeuvring in a park spot at low speed. One gets the feeling that the wheels turn at different speeds. My car is a permanent 4 wheel drive. The garage tells me it's a transfer case problem, and that the transfer case will have to be replaced. This might be so expensive, that they advise buying a new car, this one being too old. In the mean time we drained hte oil of the transfer case, as well as that of transmission and both cardans. this helped for a few days but the problem came back. Draining the oil of only the transfer case again had the same result. :confuse: Has anyone experienced the same problem and be able to solve it?
Regards,
Martin

whattodo2

Confirmation on the viscous coupler. Addendum - after alot of research and talking to other Jeepers with similar experience, I've found "its a Jeep thing" explains it best. And per my transmission guy, if it really is the VC (unless it is a real drivetrain problem), and if you can handle the skipping while parking (since the wheels are not getting the differential power they would with the VC working), it may not be worth the money to fix it.

whattodo2

be sure to see the notes about the viscous coupler just previous to your post

mvandier

Thanks for your notes, best thing to do is not to turn too sharp then when parking!! However, as the problem only arises after 20 minutes driving, which basically means that the oil in the VC is warm, would it help to use an oil with a higher viscosity? Or would this ruin the VC? With a cold engine (and VC) the car behaves prefectly!
Martin

whattodo2

When putting my '94 JGC into Drive first thing in the morning or after it has been sitting for awhile, it is very sluggish for the first few accelerations. I was told it was a "check valve" in the transmission, but after this was replaced it continues to do this. If I first put it in neutral for a few seconds and then into Drive it is fine. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, after it warms up for about 15 minutes of driving, then coming to a complete stop, it doesn't downshift all of the way, causing it to jerk either at the stop or when I first apply the gas. I was told this was a sticking governor (from metal bits in the fluid) and it may work itself out (the transmission was rebuilt recently). Again, anyone know anything contrary to this? I haven't spent any money on either of these problems yet but don't want to let something go that could cause further problems at greater expense.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

gghost

I have had recent probelms with 4.0 overheating. Twice in past week. First time I shut it down for a few hours, drove it for a week w/ no problem. Today it did it, then it went to normal and back to o. heat in same 2 mile trip.

Diagnostic codes are 0031, 0051, and 01136

pool92005

we have the same problem, relpaced every brake part you can think of, but then somebody suggested the pinion bearing or axle bearrings :confuse: in the rear axle, guess i will try that.

pool92005

you dont have to replace the whole thing.get 600 grit wet- sandpaper. Go over the lenses with that, then take 1000 or 1200 grit wet-sandpaper over your lense wipe completely dry and then spray rattle can clear coat over the lense. did it to ours works better then replacements
and cheaper :shades:

jmp54

I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but I think you did. I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. that was having the following problems, rough idle, the car would vibrate at highway speeds and the transmission didn't shift smooothly. I took it to the first dealer, who informed me that they checked the codes and that everything was fine and that the rough idle was normal after the breakin period. My experience is that engines run better after breaking in not worse. I contacted Jeep customer service regarding this to see if the dealership was correct regarding the idle, they offered to refer me to another dealer. I took it to another dealer, who surprisingly recommended that the fuel injection system be serviced (not cheap) and would check out the engine. Surprise,,, they couldn't find anything either but they did send it to their transmission guy. I again contacted Jeep customer service both by phone and email to attempt to get an answer about the rough idle, again this was fruitless. While the car was being serviced by the transmission tech, he discoved that the power steering pump was bad and needed replacing, guess what this was causing the rough idle. It appears that the engine techs do not know how to diagnose a problem if the computer doesn't tell them what's wrong. It's a good thing these guys are techs and not doctors or the morgue would be full all the time. AT THIS POINT IN TIME DUE TO THE POOR CUSTOMER SERVICE FROM JEEP INFORMED THEM THAT THIS WOULD BET THE LAST AND I MEAN THE LAST CHRYSLER MADE VEHICLE I WOULD OWN AFTER OWNING 5 OVER THE LAST 13 YEARS. I RECIEVED AN EMAIL FROM THEM STATING THEY WERE SORRY THAT I WAS UNSATISFIED AND HOPED THAT I WOULD GIVE THEM ANOTHER CHANCE SOME DAY. I CAN ONLY SAY THAT WITH PAST EXPERIENCES LIKE THIS I USUALLY GOT KISSED.
DON'T BUY JEEPS OR EXPECT THE DEALER TECH TO KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON.

gfirestone

Hi all,

I've been plagued with the poor tranmission performance as many of you have with the 2005 JGC. 3500 miles into it, torque convert, valve body, and oil pump were replaced. Right now I don't feel the transmission shifts well. I get hesitations around 1500 and 2000 RPMs at times, intermittent lack of shifting when getting on the highway (goes up to 4500 rpm), and most annoying is a clunking when operating in stop and go speeds. If the RPM's get low enough, the slightest tap of the accelerator jolts you forward with a clunk. I'd describe as the feeling up backing up and while rolling backwards putting it into drive.

Anybody else have this problem. Dealer can't reproduce and told me its normal. Any solutions?

Regards,
Greg

gghost

I replaced the relay last night, everything cool and fan worked. Then today, it overheated again and fan not working. What are the Hayden parts to order. Iv'e been looking on their site and can't tell.

gghost

where are these sensors and do you have the OEM numbers?

whattodo2

You raise a good point which was not addressed by any of the people I talked to, including the transmission "expert" who examined my jeep ... if you get more information on this please share it. (I did find plenty of antedotal stories online of wrong fluids being used - non Mopar or not what the manual ordered - and a correction to this seemed to rectify some problems, but none with this exact issue...)

cdplayer

Hi. I've been reading several postings with the same problem you are experiencing. Even my 10 disc Cd player has failed to give me satisfaction in my 2002 Overland. And only 34,000 miles. I have dismantled,cleaned,adjusted,etc. The best solution is to remove the stock player when you can afford it and replace with an after market. Be sure to get the proper adapter so you do not loose the steering wheel controls. Cruchfield.com is pricy but you can get an idea of what will work in your model.

cdplayer

Just a thought. I have a 1997 Limited with slight vibration a 60 to 70 mph. My dealer who is a friend said the virbation at freeway speed is from the rear pinion bearings.

jmp54

Read my post #3064, and don't expect to get any assistance from Jeep other than they will offer to refer you to another dealer. Next time buy a Toyota, Range Rover, Nissan, etc. Over the past 14 years I have owned 5 different Jeep and Chrysler vehicles that were purchased new and evertime I took it in for service I was told that "we can't seem to duplicate your problem" or "the computer says that it checks out properly", I just don't think that they have the slightest idea of diagnosing problems. Like I said in the previous post, the opinion I received from Jeep customer service was that they weren't concerned that I would never buy another Chrysler product.
That should tell you something.

crookster

I have a 04 WJ with a power tech V-8, and quadra trac II. When I start up the car the engine revs to 3000 rpms by itself and when I put the car into drive the car kicks forward. Also when the transmission shifts into any gear it hesitates. I really need help because when I take it to the jeep dealer they tell me it is normal and I keep arguing with them that it is not normal. What a disappointment this wj has been.

howie56

I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee w/ 5.7 Hemi and since 3500 miles the engine has been surging 2 to 3 hundred RPM's at all speed which is being caused by the torque converter and transmission always searching for the correct setting which are controlled by the computer program and when I've had both the dealer and a factory engineer check this problem out, they are trying to tell me that this is a normal funtion of the vehicle and there is nothing wrong .
I am now goin to the news media shortly to have them check out the problem and I'm sure that Chrysler is not going to be happy to be getting some really "Negative" advertisement. :lemon:

mstoverink

I've got a 97 JGC Laredo w/ 5.2L V8 and Quadra-Trac.

Mostly drive around town but yesterday I'm on the highway at about 70mph and after about 10 minutes it feels like there is some resistance on the engine. Fluctuates every 15 seconds... resistance, normal, resistance, normal, etc. When the resistance kicks in it also starts pulling to the right. Than all of a sudden, the Quadra-Trac lever goes from 4-hi to 4-low on its own.... AT 70MPH DOWN THE HIGHWAY! Pull over, put it back in 4-hi and now a loud whining/whirring sound from the front right. In addition, it still has the resistance off and on, and pulls to the right, and now the steering is also non-responsive sometimes. When it pulls to the right, I correct to the left, but the steering isn't catching or something and I keep drifting. Luckily I was able to get back home and park it, but now wondering what the heck is going on. PLEASE HELP ME!!! Any information is greatly appreciated. -Mark.

jdejeephemi

Sorry to hear about your problems but I too have noticed the surge but what is more prevailant to me is driving at highway speeds (70 to 80) mph and having this incredible vibration coming from the vehicle. Have you noticed this at all? I am putting my GC 5.7L in the shop on july 5th to address theses problem. Hopefully I will have some answers to my problems. :confuse:

shadowmaginis

I've got a strange problem with my 93 jeep grand charokee lerado. When i press down on the breaks and relses the break lights turn on, but they sometimes dont turn off. this only happens when its parked. they way i turn them off is by either pulling the break up (tword the driver) or just press it again and releas it. it started up after i changed the flasher under the steering wheel colum...i tried taking the flasher out to see if that would make it stop but it didn't. Any body know whats goin on?

howie56

Yes , I did have that problem once and that was when I had the tires rotated and balanced and I have to say that Tires Plus didn't have a clue on what they were doing as I brought it into my Jeep dealership and had them check out the problem and found out that when they did a "Proper" job of balancing , no worries. The fast I went before they re balanced the tires the worse it got - - Hope this helps a bit

dtryanow

I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee (manual A/C). The heater blower fan works on low and medium speed but does not work on high speed. I already replaced the resister and heater head and still have no high speed. Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave.

curious_gears

ok my grampa gave me a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 5.2L v8 which i absolutely love and is first car. starting 2 days ago, when i had to move it over to the side of our barn, the strangest thing happened. the jeep cranked, turned over, cranked, turned over, and so on. it would start for maybe a second then it would die and crank then start for a second and the die. so i got mad, checked the fuses, they were fine,and left it for an hour. came back and it fired rightup. then this morning it did it again. actually not 5 minutes ago it did it again it was the last straw. so i decided to write this and see what anyones opinion is or if they've had this problem

thanks
~james

babygrand

Check the switch on the underside of the steering column. A little WD might fix it for you!

curious_gears

hmmm...ok but i dont know what "wd" means
lol :confuse:

rtravis

:confuse: I used an inverter to power a laptop in this jeep...............worked great for several days............then blew a circuit and now the top half of the fuse box is with out power to the A/C.Radio,turn signals,wipers and of course the cigarette lighter..........all fuses are ok in the 2 fuse boxes I found...........is there another fuse box? or fusible link in the wiring somewhere?

lacar

I just had the SAME EXACT problem on a 2000 JGC! After a fairly long (couple hours) road trip to the desert, car didn't start next morning. All the dials started to spin and there was a ticking noise -- all WITHOUT the key in the ignition. Got the battery jumped and car started the first time (but radio did not work and the mileage counter flickered and all lights on dashboard were on), and when we tried to start the car a second time, no luck. Replaced the (already fairly new) battery and car still did not start. Had to get it towed to a Dodge dealership, where it now sits a couple of hundred miles from where we live, and rented a car to get back home. Dealer just called to say that on top of the $85 initial inspection fee, it would cost around $220 more to complete just the inspection - suggested it may be an electrical problem, but that they had to go and check all the wires.

Did any of you ever find out what the problem was? No one we've spoken to has ever heard of the spinning dials, but that's exactly what we experienced as well! Already out over $600 (new battery, $300+ inspection, $250 rental car) before we even know what the problem is and the dealership knows we're out-of-towners and have no choice but to have them fix the car. Please help!!! Thanks so much.

shadowmaginis

porobably wd-40

curious_gears

if it is possible i would suggest having the mechanic look at the spider gears in the front axle and driveline. also a new ball yoke for the drive line may help

fljoe1

When the turn signal on the passenger side of my 2006 JGC stopped working, I assumed it was a bulb....wrong.
Not only was the turn signal not working but the low beam lamp was out too, tried replacing that also. The high beam was working on the passenger side but not on the Driver's side (tried replacing that one also). Finally both fog lamps were out. Checked the fuses...no luck. Anyone out there experienced with this? any suggestions? Really do not want to spend a day at the shop if it's something simple. Thanks

bmre

I just purchsed a 2006 JGC the first of June and a week after buying was traveling on a slight upgrade approaching a traffic light at about 20mph. As I applied the brakes the brake pedal would not depress and actually began pushing back. I put both feet on the pedal and still no response. I had to swerve to avoid hitting the car in front of me and pull the emergency brake to get the car to stop. I tried repeatly to get the car to react the same way to no avail. Yesterday it repeated again. The dealer doesn't seem to have a clue what is going on. But I won't drive the car until I know what is causing this to happen and it is repaired. Is anyone else experiencing this sort of problem? It is extremely dangerous obviously?

regisg

Im having the same exact problem with my car, one day i got pissed b/c my car would not stay running so i gassed it and a tube that goes from the purge control solenoid to the engine popped off. I thought i had a vacum leak but when i fixed the tube it still did it so i removed it from the solenoid and it has been running since, i have one being shipped to me but i wouldn't advise driving with the tube off because the engine sucks from that tube. I will tell you if that was the problem once i get the new part on.

curious_gears

i think my problem might be a little different because even if i gas it, there is no response other than a little surge during the 1-2 seconds that it is running. and this whole thing occurs while never taking my hand off the ignition key. i was wondering if it could be a computer problem. but thank you and i will look into it

crookster

In my 04 wj the check engine light flashes on and off when the key is in the on position, before the car is started. Can somebody please help and tell me what this could mean? Before it stayed on when it does the light test, now it flashes. It does not come on while driving. Is this serious? Thank You

forsche

This is happening to my 1995 Jeep right now. I was also told it was a problem with the transfer case or track bar. It was explained to me finally by my friend who I found out was a Jeep mechanic for 7 years. He said that the viscous coupler in the front transfer case is locking up and not allowing the front wheel to stopping driving. In a turn this causes them to fight with the rear wheels and they start to hop, make black marks and roll and pitch and create alot of resistance in the power steering. The part is $1400 canadian plus labour.

It drives my wife nuts. Its fine sometimes but then after it heats up in the transfer case it feels like the front end is going to come off in a turn.

I feel your pain.

Have a great day.

Forsche

forsche

I had a similar problem but you can decide if can help you out. I found two things with my jeep that was causing this exact problem.
1. Loose battery connections. I know it sounds simple and you might say I've checked that. I didn't think it would cause a problem because once you've started a car you can run it without the battery.

2. There is an idler sencor at the back of your intake manifold. It can get crud on it and cause and improper air/fuel mixture (while idling). If you put your foot on the gas it will rev up find and once you let your foot off it just dies. This idle control divise controls the the air/fuel mixture when idling. I changed mine out and it runs fantastic again. It costs about 20 40 dollars.

Easy to change, two small screws (I can't remember which type) don't drop them when taking them out, I did, it sucked, pull out the old and in with the new.

Have a good night.

Forsche

cdplayer

Hello. It appears that information I have read from these forums clearly shows most dealers do not have a clue when our Jeeps develop problems. I have a 2002 Overland. I bought a shop manual on CD through Ebay. It has helped me through some of the rough spots with my Jeep.
The manual describes several possible reasons for brake problems. Hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to linings that are water soaked,contaminated,glazed,or badly worn. Since your problem is not consistantly happening but happens on occasion I would look to a failure in the power booster. Open the hood and look carefully at and around the power booster. You will find a large hose leading from the booster to the engine block. This is the vacuum feed. In this hose is a check valve. If the booster is not getting proper vacuum the connection at the block could be loose,the check valve could be faulty,the grommet where the hose attaches to the booster could leak or the hose has a crack in it. To check for vacuum, remove the hose from the booster(engine off). Have someone start the engine while you have your finger covering the end of the vacuum hose. Do not let go! Feel for a strong vacuum.
Do not let go. Turn engine off. If vacuum is present then possibly you have a faulty booster or check valve. Engine off. Look for distortion in the grommet that seals the hose to the booster. Replace if necessary. If you can check that the hose connection to the engine block is secure. Remove the vacuum hose and see if you can somehow suck air through the hose from the end that attached to the engine block. You should not be able to do this if the check valve is good. In fact if the check valve is good, you should hear vacuum escaping as you remove the hose from the booster.
I hope some of this info is helpful.

mpk21445

I have a 99 Jeep GCL... Can you tell me How to physically remove the assembly to replace it. thanks

crookster

Go to wjjeeps.com that has everything about the wj (99-04) jeeps.

dosboss

My 95 JGC Laredo 4.0L has a body/suspension problem where it leans to the left (driver side) about 5 to 10 degrees. It leans equally in the front and rear. This started (noticably) about 2 months ago (have had it for 3 years). I have cheked on known level pavement using a bubble level, both with the gas tank full and near empty. I have inspected the undercaraige, and not knowing too much about 4WD suspensions, I have put any repair on hold (I know a lot about McPherson struts/A-arms, rear 'live' axles, and rack&pinion power steering from tooling around my 93 Mustang). I cannot see any noticeable damage, nor can I remember hitting anything or rough handling roads in that timeframe. Anyone have a clue/similar experience? I like to do things myself, if possible, so taking it to a mechanic would only be for diagnosis (hate to spend money at the shop when I am perfectly capable and have the tools to do it).

bmre

Thanks cdplayer. I will forward this on to the dealer, maybe it will help. Thanks again.

baron_350

Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone could steer me in the right direction on something. On my 2001 Grand Cherokee Ltd. (4.7L QuadraDrive) my Check Engine light has come on...can't tell any difference in how the Jeep is driving, seems to be fine. Took it to AutoZone and had them use their code reader, it pulls code #0601 PCM internal check sum error. :confuse: I then took it to the dealership for a more thorough examination and they told me the PCM needed to be replaced. The bad news, to do so will cost me upwards of $700 to get a reman. PCM unit installed and programmed. Dealer says that if I find a used one from salvage there is no way it will work (?) They say that you can't reprogram a PCM from one Jeep to another even if I did find a used unit straight out of another 2001 V8 4x4 limited. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? I can't afford to pour another $700 into this Jeep for repair right now and I have located a unit from another truck just like mine that I can buy for $150. Is the dealership shooting me straight? Can I buy the used part and swap it in without having to have it reprogrammed? What will happen if I don't replace the PCM, will my Jeep explode or what? :P As a non-mechanically inclined person I appreciate any direction!!! Thanks!!!

cdplayer

My service manual shows a picture of a 99 model year with the hood up. The photo is looking down on top of the headlight assembly. Located on the top of the assembly is a jackscrew. Remove this. Then grasp the housing firmly and pull out sharply to disengage it from the ball-studs.
A warning precedes this procedure. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable so you do not accidently set off the air bags. Wait two minutes then proceed with removal of the assembly.

ldb1950

I just read your comments about the problem you were having with your 1999 Grand Cherokee. I am also having the exact same problem with my '95'. Was wondering if you were ever able to figure out what was the cause. I took mine to the dealer and it wouldn't fail for them. They did some investigating and said they couldn't find a problem with it and yet it dies on me suddenly (usually on hot days)just after the tach goes nuts. I have been able to restart it if I let it sit for 10 minutes or so. Please let me know what you found out if anything.
Thanks alot,
LB

twolfe2409

1998 JGC I had the same problem and it was the viscus coupler in the transfer case. i bought a used one with 36,000 miles on it from Cherry Auto Parts, $400 on the internet. labor $200. I bought this truck for my 16 yo daughter. Nothing but problems.

gordo36

I plan on changing the oil soon and I see that the oil pan has a recess on the shroud to drain the oil. I have looked all over the engine compartment and can't locate the filter. Does the shroud on the bottom have to come off to access the oil filter? Thanks for any info.