Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

jaquglo

My fuel pump has never been changed- the check engine light doesn't come on- thanks for the advice.

oldman59

The crankshaft sensor controls power to fuel pump. Try turning key on and wait, if check comes on after waiting try starting Oldman59 :mad:

segadad

The problem with your back windows is most likely the jumper harness between the left front door and the left front door jamb. This harness controls windows, locks, mirrors, etc. the problem is the wires become worn from constantly bending every time you open and close the door. If you pull back the rubber boot that protects the harness you will probably find several broken wires. Fixing them is troublesome because the repair makes the harness even thicker and more susceptible to damage. I am having the same problem with my 95 JGC but the dealer wants 320 bucks for that one foot jumper harness! If anyone out there knows where I can find a used or remanufactured one, it would be greatly appreciated!

mm450exc

I was thinking about this one. 23MPG average is what it gets if you look at european reviews. But after reading all the problems you guys have even with brand new cars I will need to re-think. Why is this truck having so many issues. Even 2006!

notjeepcrazy

Had a similar situation with my 01 GC. Almost just sounded like road noise from the rear tires. We got use to it, but when we had passengers they noticed it right away. Was a grinding/rubbing sound directly correlated with the speed of the vehicle - like you mentioned when you slow down it doesn't make it as much. Turned out to be a bearing in the rear end or something like that - to a tune of $1600 at the dealer.

wheatley1

Hey I have been reading some of the posts on here, but with 3,000+ messages I can't read them all. I am thinking of buying a used 1999-200? Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 in it like my '92 Cherokee. I was wondering if this is a good idea, or if I should try to find a newer Cherokee and skip the Grand Cherokee all together. Any input would help.
Thanks

bes1501

The light(s) are out on my transmission selector and it is difficult at night to find the correct selection Any ideals on what the problem is and how it can be fixed?

howie56

I have posted my problem before about the engine surging because of the torque converter trying to find a smooth place ( I guess ) 2005 JGC 5.7 Hemi and I'm just wondering if I'm the only one having these problems with my Jeep - - So what I'm asking is if there are others with this problem if you would just let me know and if you have the same vehical with the same engine and are "NOT" having any problems would you also let me know so I have some idea of which way to go .
Thank You
Roger :confuse:

jmp54

My suggestion is that you buy an Explorer or any other manufacturer. I have, over the past 14 years owned 4 Jeep Grand Cherokees, all Ltd one Orvis, also a Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The JGC that I have has the high output 4.7 litre that has a bad misfire, the dealer is of no help nor is Jeep, I told Jeep that this would be the last vehicle of theirs that I would be purchasing, their reply "thats your choice" Caveat emptor. Take my advice buy something else, you will be happier.
So much for customer loyalty.

blkhemi

In contrast to what you're reading here, there are a lot of us who have faired very well with our Jeeps.

With over 30 years of ownership, I still have major respect for the Jeep brand.

Someone mentioned to buy an Explorer instead. Visit the Explorer forum, and you'll see why I will advice against that idea.

Currently, I have '01 JGC, and '06 Commander, and a '06 JGC SRT-8, and wouldn't give them up for the world. Aside from the brakes on my '01(this is a minimal problem you're likely to face on your eventual purchase), I haven't had any major problems with either of them.

wheatley1

Thanks for the info, I did not get to read these comments today, and I bought a 99 JGC Laredo. I couldn't pass it up, this baby is LOADED. It has so many options that I would get carpul tunnel trying to list them all. The brake thing is no biggie because I know how to work on them. And as far as the misfire, I went with theI6 4.0HO motor. I hope I don't have any real big problems with it, but I will manage if that happens. I appreciate the info, by the way is the SRT-8 JGC as fast as they advertise or what? Take care.
Eric

compumom32

My 96 JGC is in the shop as we speak. :sick: After four months of stalling, 4 mechanics later, and replacing crankshaft sensors, camshaft sensors, distributor, ignition coil and probably something else I'm forgetting. I got a call just an hour ago that my PCM is bad. I was told at the first mechanic that it was the wiring harness and it needed to be replaced($1500 - $2000) I chose not to believe. This mechanic had said that the wiring is fine, it's just the PCM that needs to be replaced. ($600)still high, but better. I am being optimistic that my problem is now solved. I just wanted to share, since I spent $$$ on so many different parts and it wasn't the solution. Have them check your PCM. :shades:

blkhemi

Eric, the SRT is not as fast as they advertise: IT IS FASTER!!! 0-60 in 4.4 secs. vs. a Jeep claim 4.9.

Oh, and congrats on you '99. How many miles? Did you run a Carfax? I know that baby must've been good if you bought it. And it is loaded, which will keep you happy with all of the crazy equipment to play with.

crookster

Thanks I will look at that tommorow when I go to work. If you can give me a part number for the harness I will try to see where I can help you find it. Thanks for the info!

trickster

Quite simple actually. Just take care that you do not mar the mating surfaces of the cover and the block.
Changing only your timing chain may be more harmfull than good, but if you only have 90,000 than change away. For the little money that plugs will cost you, change those also. Curiosity makes me ask, why do you think that it is time to change your timing chain? Are there symtoms/signs that you should replace the chain? :confuse:

I hope this helps you.

trickster

I have the exact same JGC. The one thing about JGC are that when you install an after market stereo,alarm..ect.ect, is that you run the risk of corrupting the programming of the pcm. I suggest that you bite the bullet, and take it to a dealership and have them run a diagnostics check on your PCM programming. They may have to wipe it clean and re-install fresh programming. This may or may not fix the problem, but it is a good place to start.Another great idea is to pick up a manual(haynes is awesome) at most parts dealers for $20+/-, and read the chapter about running your own diagnostic check.
You can also go buy a OBD2 (on board diagnostics reader) , which would come in very handy, as this will read most chrysler products out there today. Personally, I own two OBD2 readers and never leave home without them.

Take care, and i hope this helps you.

trickster

This sound to me as the rear differential will need to be over hauled. First check the fluid level in the diff, if it is low, then top it up. Try the vehicle again, and then check behind you rear rotors to see if your axle seals are leaking fluid. If you have been running the vehicle in this condition for awhile, then chances are that the damage has already been done, and an overhaul is in order. If you do decide to overhaul, then don't skip on any parts. You will need: axle seals,axle bearings,carrier bearings,inner and outer pinion bearings,crush sleeve, and a pinion seal. This whole kit should run about $300 +/- . You may only have a minor problem such as a bad axle bearing, which is quite easily to swap out, just make sure that what you do to one side of the diff, you must do to the other side.If this is not your problem, then at least you have new axle bearings and seals, and you can cross those off the list. If you need a detailed explaination or a step by step on how to go about doing this, then pick up a haynes manual on your particular make and model of JGC at most part stores for about $20 +/-.

I hope this helps you, and take care.

trickster

There is a small light bulb under the selector, that you need to change. Take your time pulling up the selector housing as this piece of plastic does cost alot, as the dealerships deem this as a cosmetic part, and that costs alot. Word of warning from the wise, you will see a silver/black box under the center console which is your airbag control module; DO NOT hit,smack around, or take it off, as this has the potential to release the airbag due to tampering,and/or sharp heavy blows to the housing. :sick:

I hope this helps you, and take care.

trickster

Sounds like this could be an idle air control problem. There is sensor called an idle air control, that regulates the amount of air that is required to run your engine properly. Most times this is located at the back of the throttle body(close to the firewall). Take the sensor off, and clean the plunger and mating surface off using carb cleaner that is safe for fuel injection as well, and also clean where the plunger goes into the throttle body as well as the mating surface. If the plunger sticks, then the engine is starved for air, and it stalls. This quick fix costs you about $10, and a half hour of your time well used towards maintaince of you vehicle.

I hope this helps you, and take care.

trickster

The only bad thing to look out for for them years, is the brakes are the archilles heel of the vehicle. You will have to swap out all four rotors with after-market rotors in order to fix this manufacture's boo-boo. They equipped these 2000 models with rotors that have a bad metal composition that when under heavy use, or even normal use, tends to warp the rotors , and any amount of machining does not fix the problem, it only masks it.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster

Pick up a Hanynes manual and start reading about your vehicle. This manual will tell you just about everything, and anything you possibly need to know about your problem(s) with your vehicle. The cost: about$20 +/-.

I hope this helps you, and good m8.

trickster

The resistor is the fuse(kinda sorta). When you turn on your heater blower on high, you get full 12 volts, and the current bypasses the resistor all together. When you turn it on a lower setting, the current is re-routed through the resistor to lower the 12 volt current to a lower setting to give the slower rpm of the blower motor. IE: a variable speed drill. If in fact the pigtail and connector wires were to touch, then the last line of defence is the fuse in the fuse block, to prevent the vehicle from burning down to the ground.
Sometimes the engineers need time to figure these problems out in order to bring them to your attention; unfortunatly, they do not always find these problems in time, and we the consumers are the ginea pigs for thier experiments in new technology. :surprise: Lucky us.

This may not help you, but good luck anyways m8.

jaquglo

They replaced my ignition coil and cylinoid which helped but it just died on me again today. I also had my crankshaft sensor replaced. There next bet is my fuel pump.

naatz1

I haven't been on this forum for a while, usually look at the Chrysler 300M forum. I have an 01 with 4.0L I6 and Selectrac; bought new in Dec 2000, now has 73k miles. We have a few problems in first 36k miles including the infamous disc brake rotor/pad/caliper replacements but I barely got my $800 extra invested in the 5/70k extended warranty to pay for itself. Knock on wood the last almost 3 years have been pretty good.
While not near as sexy as the V8, -everyone- with prior Jeeps told me to buy the 4.0L I6 with shiftable Selectrac 4WD. So far I have not regretted it.
Good luck, and I'd suggest looking at 01s and beyond as they shook out some of the bugs prevalent in the 99s.

whattodo2

I am trying to find skid plates for my 1994 GC Laredo. Has anyone else put these on? Specifically I have been advised to add a Transfer Case skid, a fuel tank skid, and front/read diff covers before going off-road. The dealer has the gas tank skid but I am leery of getting something too light weight... but may be forced into this. Also, if anyone has taken this model off-road I'd like to know your experience... did it do well? Things to bear in mind...

tst58

I have about 9,000 miles on a set of auto zone rotors and everything is still fine. Now I am researching a strange sucking or hissing cycle in the climate control system. All the positions on all the switches seem to work fine but I think I have some kind of animal living under the passenger side of my dash. I have seen this problem mentioned a few times but some of the particulars are different. I am going to the dealer August 15 for a system check. I will let you know what I find out. I am so lucky to have a competent and honest dealer. Roanoke Motor Company in Roanoke, Illinois is the best. If the problem can be solved, they will solve it.

dandg

I have a 94 JGC (not my first choice but it was cheap)and the VIC,Information center keeps resetting and engaging the alarm which requires locking and unlocking door.Could care less about info center but the usless alarm (I leave key in it in the hope someone would steal it!)prevents car from running.The miles till oil change seems to stay in memory but date and time are gone.The check 4wd switch comes on lots of time but that has done that sicne I purchased it 2 years ago,switch was replaced to no avail and its my understanding that a common problem.Anyone else been down this road with any ideas? Even a way to permantly disable alarm would be welcome,
thanks in advance

jab13171

Well, I made the same mistake about 25 months ago.

I have a 01 JGC Limited, 60th Anniversary edition. I’ve put 50K miles on it (for a total of 95K now.)

While I have enjoyed the vehicle, I’ve had to replace two (2) electric window rockers, the driver’s heated seat no longer works, the check engine light will not go out and every sensor in the system has been replaced, the “Blend Doors” went out (these are the controls that allow the heat from the engine to heat the car, big repair..and even in Tennessee you need heat in your car.) I’ve also had to replace a tweeter which somehow blew out (which requires the dash be removed), the car surges when it is first started, the vehicle will not move in gear for the first 15 seconds of being started, when a sharp turn is attempted it grinds like Chewbacca’s howling and the brakes warbled like everyone else’s.

Now the transmission is starting to slip (during the downshift between 2nd and 3rd), when the car is put into gear it is moves the entire vehicle and the AC will stop working on longer trips down the interstate.

I will not be buying another Jeep. This is a super-cool looking vehicle, but the mechanical troubles are almost overwhelming. My dealership even gives me a “discount” since they see me so much.

My apologies for laying so much out there but I am a nOOb to the board.

If anyone has any advice for me on the transmission or slow starting problem, please let me know.

dandg

short answer yes, they are not very well made.My wife has a RX330 and has had no trouble,my Jeep has had more replaced than can be listed but then again thats why Toyota and Honda are kicking American car makers butt!
Now to question, when was last time transmission was serviced?Hopefully it has been done at laes once,if not it may toast at 95k.If done a while back (over say 20k ago) may be worth it to do a service(not flush),remove pan and change filter,be sure they add mopar fluid when refilling.Once pan is off it can be determined if trans has problems (which they are infamous for) buy condition of fluid and metal on magnet.
HTH

trickster

Check your A/C relay, and your Auto Shutdown Relay; these are wired directly with your tachometer, and O/D solenoid. Another good place to check is the CCV(Crankcase ventilation). The CCV acts the same as PVC,(Positive Crankcase Ventilation), but uses a rubber grommet with a molded in orfice in your valve cover. If there is no vacuum, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or leak. Clean the rubber grommet, and the orfice that is in it(with a paper clip).
As for the CSS(crankshaft sensor), did you replace it with GENUINEChrysler product? JGC are very "picky" about 'what ' they get for parts. Your fuel pump can be easliy checked with a pressure gauge, and a friend Your tachometer, recieves info dicectly form the VSS(vehicle speed sensor); this will stop the "service four-wheel drive switch" indictor from always coming on.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster

The "service four wheel drive" switch requires you to change the VSS(vehicle speed sensor). Located on the Transfercase,fastened by a screw/bolt; To the VSS Housing(which is fastened the T/case housing). D0 NOT take the housing off the T/case!!Take only the sensor off and replace. Have the memory fault codes stored in your PCM memory cleared, from eithier: a OBD2 (on-board diagnostics tool, quite the same as the dealerships) $100-$200 +/-, or a dealership.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster

Where are you planning on going? Rock crawling, or some seroius off-roading? You may want to talk with dixie crawler then.

dandg

Hi m8,
and thank you for the help.I have two questions related to the VSS if I could.Its my understanding that its a gear driven pickup that inputs into the ECM (or TCM)
1)If its gear driven why would the "service 4wd switch come on when standing still? mine is on and off from time I start Jeep till when I shut it off.
2)If its a input to the ECM would it then give false info to the ECM and create shift issues if it where faulty? Mine transmission shifts ok (was rebuilt when I bought it-that how I got it for $1.00 as it needed a trans).
Thanks,

kforce

Bought new in 2000, Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4x4, 4.7L V-8.
Has LOCTRONICS key fob start protection. (Dealer Installed)

From new, about once or twice a year the vehicle stops running, without
warning (no rough idol or anything) while warm, at idol, in gear. Always started right back up.
In February during cold starts the idol had problems revving up and down. Could not
seem to find correct idol speed. Computer gave no error codes. Dealer advised that
their service bulletin recomended "flashing" the PCM. It seemed to work but,
after that the car started to die at idol again twice a month. each time it started back up.
Until Thursday the 10th of August. While fully warm, in gear, and at idol the engine died
without warning. When I tried to start it back up the gauges (gas, bat, temp, and oil pres.)
all went to '0' position, but everything else functioned. The starter cranks just fine but would not start.
I used a generic OBD wand and got a P0726-0728 code. (Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance intermittent)
The computer only gives the error code while in this condition!! This condition lasted and
did not resolve until the next morning. At cold start up the gauges all worked fine and the
vehicle fired right up. No more error code.
Dealer saw no code and did nothing else about it.
Drove home from dealer, died again. Same result. Problem resolved after 1/2 hour.
Grand Cherokees show codes on the odometer by cycling the key on and off. This system does NOT work while the problem exists. The OBD wand does. The odometer codes work after resolution but shows "done".(which means that there are no error codes)

kforce

Hey "topoftherockie" Have you found a solution yet?? I own a 2000 JGC and am having the exact same problem now. Mine dies at idol when warm. Gauges go to 'zero'. OBD wand gives a p0728 error code but only while the problem exists. The odometer code reader does not function during the problem. It shows NO error code after the engine cools and resolves itself. I found remanufactured PCM's at a good price at this site http://www.ecudirect.com/finditfast/default.asp?type1=rnr#

trickster

When a sensor is"faulty", then the "given" voltage requirments change. So.....now the PCM, dictates that the sensor is faulty, and therefore it is, on mechanical means. This means that even though your vehicle is not in gear, this info will berelayed to your VIC, regardless of gear in or out.
As for question 2: A quick fix, and diagonstic would be to change the trans filter, and diagnose from there. You do not need to flush and replace all the trans oil, only what is inside the pan.(Please read the directions on the package of the trans filter.)
To understand what is going on with the "servive 4 wheel drive switch": means that your VSS is giving a false report of a faulty sensor,(which is major), that then puts your select trac into 4x4 allltime. :sick: This will KILL your drivetrain.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

tst58

I made my trip to Roanoke Motors with my climate control noises and my mechanic solved it in 5 minutes. It was low on refrigerant and was trying to equalize the pressure without a sufficient amount of refrigerant. It is fixed and everything is fine. I told you this dealership was wonderful. No runaround and no hassle. I love these guys and I would tell you the name of my mechanic but I promised him that I would not. He is one of the top Viper mechanics in the country and is a genius. Good luck with dealerships that are not as competent.

dandg

Hi m8,
and thanks for reply. I can see how its possible the VSS is giving a reading when in "P" but I guess I would have thought I would see speedo issues (irratic or no speed indications) if I was getting a faulty input from VSS. I am going to see if I can hook up a scanner at a friends shop and read the inputs from VSS.
The transmission is shifting fine and only has about 10k on it so I don't want to drop pan yet.I agree with no flush and think that causes more damage then helps.
Where I am really baffeled is this VSS putting it in 4x4, my Jeep is always in 4wd its a "quadra trac" and this "service 4wd switch" as been on since I got it.I would think if its damaging the drive train it would have smoked it by then no?
On the plus side I did find a recently unattached wire for the hood alarm switch (any idea's on how to completely remove the alarm for the system would be welcome)and just grounded it out.I now can keep the date and time in memory and the alarm does not set every time I tunr it off.Only taken it for one test run but am "cautiously optimistic
again thanks for continued advice m8 I appreciate the help.

nutzi

ok...the mechanic says that all that can be found right now is the ignition coil is misfiring....could be causing stalling...we are having that changed...already had crankshaft sensor changed...The fuel pump filter is fine....I am not optimistic about this ignition coil change....seems to be going in the same direction as everyone else...it is at the dealer...so I will call them to ask if they have checked the PCM? Next I guess we just trade it in for a more reliable vehicle.

whattodo2

Nothing too serious - novice Jamboree, I hope.

ade1971

I have a 01 GJCL. I was getting a clicking noise coming from the rear while it was under warranty I had the dealer replace all sets of bearings from the rear, it helped out somewhat. Now Im getting a loud Grinding noise mostly when I let off the gas and coasting and sometimes I get a hard tug like I was just towing something and the strap just broke. No vibration just very loud at times, sometimes I can hear it over my stereo. Anyone have a clue on what it is?

billt10

I have the same problem. Did you ever get any help on locating and clearing the discharge line?

nelsoncm

In recently driving an 06 Grand Cherokee, I noticed that the rear shoulder belt sits out kind of far from my 6 year old son's chest when he's sitting in his booster seat -- about 2-3 inches. It doesn't come across the chest snugly, like most belts do. I wonder how effective the belt would be in the event of an accident. Can any parents who haul kids speak to this issue???? I otherwise really love this car and am seriously considering getting one.

finnsta007

I'm having huge problems with my driver and passenger side doors. the bolts have been falling out for a while now and ive just had to re-tighten them but now-it seems the lock has fallen down and hangs low and is no longer latching onto the bar that is attached to the inside of the door-making the door pop back open as soon as you try to shut it, I had to drive holding my door closed today-is there an easy way to fix this? Any suggestions out there or any knowledge I'd like to know what I'm getting into before i got the repair shop. Please help if you can :confuse: ">

nelsoncm

I posted above about concerns over rear seat belts sitting out too far from a child passenger. While the top of the shoulder belt does sit out a bit far, it does come across my son's chest just fine. Enough so that we bought the car. A GC Limited 4x2. Here's to hoping we got a good one!

nutzi

As suspected the change of the ignition coil didn't fix the problem! We were so outdone, our son is driving a 2007 silver mustang! Thanks for all the help though!

dorkygrin

Ever get any help on this? I have a similar problem on a 2000 GJC. The motor seems to be seized up. It will move a little then stop. I'm afraid to jerk too hard on the wiper arm to get it off.

Help!

Thanks

wheatley1

Hey I was wondering if anyone has a JGC with a factory installed Infiniti system, and if using other speakers of better quality will work. I know that this system requires bypassing the factory amp if a custom stereo is desired, but all I want to do is upgrade with the same size speakers that already exist. I am pretty sure that I can, but I figured I would ask since you guys seem to know your stuff.
Eric

akeybabe

I have a 92 Cherokee, 2WD. I need to replace the emergency brake handle assembly. I just can't figure out how to remove the center console where the center glove box is at...??? Any help would be GREAT thanks in advance..
PS any advice on chaning the assembly handle would be great too...
Eric

bpeterson

I have just called the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)concerning the brake rotors on my 2004 JGC. This is definitely a safety issue, and I encourage anyone else with this problem to contact them at 1-800-424-9393. If they receive enough calls, it will force the manufacturer to do a recall and fix the problem once and for all. My story is similar to yours: three sets of brakes gone out within 26,000 miles. The dealership admits a 25% loss of business because of Chryslers lack of acknowledgment and responsibility. The dealer admitted the brakes were under sized and in appropriately designed for the vehicle. I definitely would like more information on the class action suit and would like participate fully.