I have a 1997 JGC with the Infinity system and had no problems when replacing the speakers that had worn out. I happened to purchase Infinity speakers again just because the price and size was right, but any brand can be used. In the JGC up through 1998 all the speakers in the doors are round and slightly larger than the standard 6 1/2" size, I don't know about newer JGC's.
Bretrussell: Thanks for the information. It seems however that the 2000 JGC is a little different. It looks like the lens itself is either rubber sealed in all around or has a sticky substance of some kind to seal it. I tried prying a little and there seems to be some give to it, so I will try again when I have more time. I compounded the outside and it made a big difference. Thanks again
Thanks man I was pretty sure, but some know it all at Best Buy tried to tell me different. Just a little FYI the rear speakers in mine are 6.5", the front doors are 6X9, and the dash have 2.5" tweeters(which are hard to find in a aftermarket brand, at least for me). I am hoping that all that I need is a new speaker because the rear one is fading in and out every time the factory bass hits from the stock amp. Thanks a lot buddy. Eric
Didn't you receive the class action settlement. I did and went to the dealer to have the brakes inspected for free, I don't have a problem with the brakes but it is a 4.7 liter High Output and does it have a rough idle, the dealer can't do anything because the system checks out fine. I told him today that this would be the last Jeep because I feel that Jeep should have said something about this seeing that it doesn't show up until 20,000 miles. The service advisor said that I wasn't the only one to say that. I have complained to Jeep and informed them that this would be the last Jeep. Guess what they said, "that's your decision" Now that I know Jeeps stance on this, I guarantee you that this will be the last. BUY A DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER, I KNOW THAT ALL MAKES HAVE THEIR PROBLEMS BUT THEIR ANSWER SAYS IT ALL.
I had the same problem- first they replaced my crankshaft sensor then my ignition coil/cylinoid and it ended up being the PCM all along- that's why they can't get a good read on diagnostics.
I had the exact same problem- replaced the crankshaft sensors, camshaft, ignition coil, cylinoid and now they did my PCM and wahla, no more stalling. Wish I would have known that to start with.
i am some what in the same boat i drive a 2000 grand cherokee 4.7 that wont start. its the second time that it has happend and the entire truck is dead. no lights in or out. no click when i try to turn it over no dash lights. the only thing that works it the power out let (for cell phone chargers and what not) when the ignition is not on run. please help i have mechanical experience and know what i am doing but stuck. i am thinking the ignition switch? but hearing you talk about the crankshaft position sensor makes me re-think. any help would be much apreciated. thanx
I've never had a problem with my jeep not starting. I diagnosed my problem by turning the ignition switch on and off, I think three times and then the fourth time a code will read at your odometer reading. You can find the codes listed on the internet.
Since the crank sensor was replaced the last time, I've had no problems, but it's only been a couple of thousand miles.
My 2000 JGC started to die at idol twice a month. each time it started back up. Until Thursday the 10th of August. While fully warm, in gear, and at idol the engine died without warning. When I tried to start it back up the gauges (gas, bat, temp, and oil pres.) all went to '0' position, but everything else functioned. The starter cranks just fine but would not start. I used a generic OBD wand and got a P0726-0728 code. (Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance intermittent) The computer only gives the error code while in this condition!! This condition lasted and did not resolve until the next morning. At cold start up the gauges all worked fine and the vehicle fired right up. No more error code either. Dealer saw no code and did nothing else about it. Drove home from dealer, died again. Same result. Problem resolved after an hour. Grand Cherokees show codes on the odometer by cycling the key on and off. This system does NOT work while the problem exists. The OBD wand DOES work to retrieve codes, but again only while the PCM is overheated. The odometer codes work after the PCM cools but shows "done".(which means that there are no error codes) This is because the crankshaft position sensor began shorting out causing the stalling. This DAMAGES the PCM. Once the PCM is damaged it begins to overheat and shuts down the 5 volt CCD bus which includes the gauges. Once cooled the PCM does a "reset" clearing the OBD codes in the computer and the engine starts as if nothing is wrong. This is why the "mechanics" can't find anything wrong. If this is the problem you are having you need to replace BOTH the Crankshaft position sensor and the PCM. PCM is $600 dealer $400.00 exchange at CSK or a company called ECU direct will rebuild yours in 24 hours for $279 with free return ground shipping. -ecudirect.com-
I have a 99 JGC and a couple of months ago, it started shaking when you would apply the brakes, and only when you applied the brakes. Everyone told me that it was the rotors, and i sort of thought the same. I work on ym own vehicles but i dont have the money to pay about $50 a piece for a rotor. But now, the jeep is slightly shaking when you drive it down the road, and SEVERLY, I MEAN SEVERLY when you apply the brakes right around 50. Can this still be the rotors or possibly a balljoint? any suggestions?
This is a cheap but temporary and immediate solution. Rub baby oil on the outside. It makes them loook new. But it only lasts a few days. I tried the rubbing compound on the edge of the headlight. It only scratched the lenses. Now I just rub baby oil on the headlights one time per week. Works like a charm!
Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2000: 6cyl 4.0L auto air 122,000Km
The initial problem was that vehicle would not start when the key was turned to the start position. The engine would turn over but not catch. It would take increasingly more effort (multiple turns of the key) to start the engine. Also, pumping the gas pedal before turning the ignition key would help.
I took the jeep to a mechanic who diagnosed a fuel pressure problem and replaced the fuel pump assembly including the strainers and fuel filter.
After getting the vehicle back it started like a charm (instantly) and ran great in city driving.
About a week after that we took the jeep on a long trip (maybe 1500km) including through the Rockies. We did not notice anything on the way out, but it was raining heavy and we were more concerned with hitting wildlife and trucks to pay attention to the engine.
On the return trip we noticed that accelerating to passing speed (from 100km/h to 125km/h) "seemed" to take longer than we would have expected. Mind you, this is the first mountain driving we have done with the jeep. In the weeks after, the starting problem returned and is getting worse just like before.
Accelerating from 0-60km/h on a hill seems fine except that I do not get pushed back in my seat like I used to at 40km/h. I've put on about 2000km since the initial service.
I took the jeep back to the mechanic who went on a road test with me. He hooked up a test computer but did not find any problems. He said the passing speed problem was that I had a 4.0L engine. However, he did not and would not test it under the conditions I had described (i.e. his max test speed was around 90km/h).
Starting the engine in the morning takes considerable effort. It takes 2 or 3 turns of the key for about 3 seconds for the engine to catch.
If I start the engine and let it run for a few minutes then turn it off, restarting the engine usually happens on the first turn. If I leave it sit for a few hours I have to turn the key to the run position for a minute then start the engine and it catches within a few seconds on the first turn.
Worth noting is that it took 3 tries for the mechanic to find the right fuel pump. The electrical connections on the first 2 would not work. The mechanic said you can order the correct part (according to catalog) from a supplier for a Jeep Cherokee and be shipped a fuel pump that will not work (i.e. wrong electrical connection). In other words there are different versions of the fuel pump electrical connector on the same model year. I do not know if he ended up using an OEM fuel pump or not.
Also, the battery was replaced with a heavy duty one last winter.
I hope thats enough info. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
After shopping at the auto supply store I jump in and try to start the truck. It did not start. When I try to turn the car over it just clicked. Then I got a jump from somebody and the car started right back up. The problem is that the jeep dealer just replaced the battery (2 weeks ago) because it died on them also. So what is the problem? Does it need a new starter or alternator? Can somebody please help me out? Thanks a lot
I just bought a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Loredo and I didn't even have it 24 hours and it wouldn't start. All of my dash lights would come on, had power to my windows and moon roof, but it would not turn over. I have had it back to the dealer three times and they tell me they cannot diagnose the problem until it doesn't start. It will eventually start everytime. I can hear a clicking noise in my relay box under the hood, as if the relays want to kick in, but don't. Does anyone know if this could be the problem or has anyone else had this type of problem. The dealer thinks it is something in the theft system. :mad: Can someone please help me?
Howdy - my '04 exhibits a tendency to make a clunking sound that I can feel through the floorboard. It only happens after I have stopped and let my foot off the brake to start out again. Seems to be more pronounced when I am pointed downhill or level; seldom when I am on an uphill slope. The vehicle has the I-6 and just under 40K on it. I'm thinking u-joint, but I'd like to get some opinions before I take it to the dealer. Any assist appreciated \ Thanks
I've had my Jeep for over a year now (15000 miles), and I've noticed that my brakes have been squeaking loudly for the past 3 oil change visits. I've mentioned it each time, and they took a look at them and even lathed the rotors one time, but, the squeeking would go away and come right back. I bought it brand new, and I can't imagine that the brakes would need to be replaced less than a year?
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone out there who might have a similar problem and any potential solutions? The squeeking may be loud at times, but, I don't believe that it means that there is a problem? Thanks in advance!
Well the rule that I was always told by my mechanic is if you have a dead battery, jump start it and disconnect the battery while it is still running. If it dies then it is your alternator and that would solve your constant dead battery problem, and obviously if your Jeep doesn't die then your battery may be the culprit. Also clean your connections real good. I am sure that the new battery terminals are clean since it's new, but clean the pos and neg connections as well as your ground connection to the body. I had a similar problem with mine and after spending $110.00 on a new battery I found that I had a fouled connection so after a little elbow grease the problem was solved. Hope this helps, but if it doesn't atleast you will have a clean connection!
Sounds like a starter or starter solenoid problem. The clicking could be the solenoid slowly kicking the stator in the starter, and the reason it starts is because there is a dead spot in the starter. Another suggestion is find another mechanic. I am sure that it is under warrantee, but there is nothing wrong with finding guidance from an outside source.
Well I took it to the dealer and they told me that the battery is fine and the alternator is fine. They do not know what the problem is. The car is dying on them also so they cant say it does not die. The rear driver window rolls down by itself when you take the key out. And before I got the jump today to get it to the dealer I put the key to the on position and the check engine light would flash and when you turn the left signal on the abs and the brake light would flash in unison with the turn signal. When the key was in the on position only the dash lights, headlights, and the fog lights would work. It did not have enough juice to power the radio, evic, and transmitter. I'm stumped. :mad: :confuse:
I own a 1996 JGC I6 with a 170K miles. This has been an exvceptional car. However lately, it has been hard to start, idles rough as well as stall at redlights. Just this morning, it shut off on me while I began to acelerate from a stop. Twice this happened in traffic. I need some help as to what the problem is. I've heard spark plugs and fuel pump. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Don't want to spend a lot of money, but don't want to buy a new car either.
I had the same problems and I hate to tell you but there's a number of things it could be. I have a 97 JGC that just started idling rough then dying, it didn't matter if i was parked, driving at 30-60, in reverse. This is the order in which we replaced parts (cheapest to most expensive) 1) Crankshaft 2) Camshaft Sensors 3) Ignition Coil 4) Cylinoid 5) Air Idle Control 6) PCM- this is what actually fixed my car after all that time, money, and work. Hope that helps with your problem, I know it's frustrating.
Is there any kind of guide books on how to remove the drivers side seat from a 2002 Grand Cherokee? I've had no luck searching so far. The seat is broken for the second time, and rather than spend $450 on new parts (the entire bottom of the seat motors etc) and $160 on labor, I'd like to see if I can just have the broken bit welded. Any recommendations on how to figure out how to remove a the seat?
So I've only had the car a week or so, but the outside temp on the compass/temp isn't working. Telling me it's in the low 70's when it's baking here in So Cal around 87. Then it suddenly climed up yesterday while driving, now it's stuck at 70 degrees. The compass portion is working fine. Dealership said they reset it today, but no help. I know you can recalibrate the compass, but a temp gauge? Just wondering if anybody else has this (little) problem.
Our 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a new battery, and the alternator tested ok at the shop. The gauges on the Jeep will occasionally start going crazy like it is possessed, and the radio and interior lights flash on and off. Any ideas?
I own a 1997 JGC with 130,000 miles on it. I am very happy with the vehicle, but have an issue with the A/C. I drive primarily on the highway. During the drive when I am required to slow down or when I am climbing any kind of hill where heavy acceleration is needed the air conditioner will divert from the vents to the defrost. It literally stops blowing from the dash vents and begins blowing out of the defrost vents. After highway speed is achieved the problem corrects itself. I've never seen or heard of anything like this. Anybody have any ideas?
i have a 96 jeep grand cherokee and it will not start it was running fine got home and shut it off 20 minutes later went to leave and the engine just cranks over but no spark i replaced the coil and had the new coil and the old 1 tested and the old 1 was no good the new one was fine so i put the new 1 in and still wont start up no fire so i hooked up a volt meter to the coil when i turn the key on it gets juice for a second but then its gone i replaced the asd relay but it didn't fix the problem now would this be the crank shaft p sensor i hope some one can tell me if this is the problem or if they have had the same problem thank you
I have an 05 Limited AWD 5.7 Hemi. It has 23,500 miles. I started noticing some noise / vibration from the rear at about 58 to 68. Goes away above 68. The Jeep makes a vibrating like sound. I also noticed that it has gotten worse in the last few days. It also seems to make the sound when when accelerating uphill in high gear. Has anyone got to the bottom of this problem. I setup an appointment for next Tuesday 9/5. I also had a vibration noise during hard downhill braking. I went to Stellen Group in Torrance CA and got the slotted and drilled rotors with new pads. This made a big difference. It seems like the brake issues on Jeeps never go away. I have an 01 and we upgraded the brakes on it and never had a problem again.
I have JGC 05 4.7 v8 with 13000 miles, that is starting to show the same problem,when in Drive and on a stop sign, the idle varies between 400rpm - 500rpm and them just quite. It is a very annoying problem, can you give some inputs on what might be the problem or can you send me your collected posts regarding 2005 stalling?
My 1998 JGC Ltd. V-8 has not been turning over when I try to start it for the first time in the morning, as if it is not getting any fuel. After it starts initially (taking 10 minutes this morning) it starts right away until it sits for several hours. It drives normally, with no problems. A mechanic cleaned it out, but still after an overnight, it takes a long time to start.
The Jeep was sitting for a couple weeks while we were away, and has not been on the highway all month.
I added a fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank yesterday. The Jeep is supposed to only have Premium Unleaded Gas, but since the spike in prices I started putting in regular gas (I was told it would not matter much). I am afraid that it has clogged it up.
Hi, My 1998 Honda Accord V6 Coupe moonroof does not fully close. The motor seems to be fine but leaves a 1" open gap. I haven't checked the fuse since I figured if the motor is working, the fuse must be okay. I can't seem to see anything obstruction the moonroof also. I tried to manually close the roof from the plug in the ceiling in the backseat but it will only close up to that 1" gap. Does anyone have any suggestions? In the worst case, how do I remove the interior roof liner to get access to the mechanisms? How about repair cost $$ ??
We also own a 1996 JGC. At redlights it stalls, while driving or accel will stall. If I try to start it back up right away it will not start, it turns. so i wait awhile, like 10-15 secs. and it will start. The idle doesn't sound correct either. It all started in June. Had the fuel tank cleaned, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter and i have taken it to the dealer and a don't know how many parts have been put in my jeep, they can't fix it. We have spent about $1,600. I have read #3281 and we are going to try the pcm. We have a 96 jeep book and read about the pcm. The pcm it regulates ignition timing, air-fuel ratio, emission control devices, charging system,speed control and idle speed. Oh by the way when it stalls the check gauges lite comes on.
I found an easy solution to this problem.. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the bottom of the black condensor cover inside the vehicle and made a hook out of a coat hanger and then went through this 3/8 hole to clean out all the debris. Once cleaned out, I used a 3/8 rubber plug and silicone to seal up the hole. This has allowed me to remove the plug as needed and reclean the inside.
New gc owner here. Though I have the adjustable pedals on my GC Ltd., which lets the pedals move forward and backward, I still can't find a good driving position for my leg. My old car, a Saab, had pedals that were tighter together and positioned closer to the center console. Does anybody know if the brake pedal has any room to adjust closer to the gas pedal (to the right)? Or can it be pushed back further? I'm fairly petite at 5ft 2in, and I'm getting low back and hip pain on my right side when driving the car. I'm trying all sorts of seat/pedal configurations to no avail so far.
I tried to reduce the noise by lubing the hinge on the blender door behing the glove box. It seems to have reduced the noise considerably. See WJJEEPS.COM on how to remove the glove box door.
4 bolts. 2 in the front which are horizontal, then move the seat forward and there are 2 bolts in the rear that screw down. Unclip the seat controls and its out. I had a local metal shop weld mine. It's fine now and I'm on a diet!
If after you have your A/C blender doors replaced and the grinding noise returns you might want to try applying a bit of oil on the hinge of the blender door behind the glove box. I did it to mine and the climate control is much quieter. Lets see how long it lasts. The dealer seemed reluctant to change the blender doors again and said the noise was normal (BS). So after some investigation I decided to do something about it.
If someone could please help me to get in touch with the right people so that I may join the class action lawsuit (if it is still possible) I would appreciate it. I have contacted the U.S. Department of Transportation Auto safety hotline and encourage others to do so as well for safety concerns on the brakes.
I purchased a brand new Jeep Grand Cherokee with a V6. I recently heard "tapping" from the engine. I brought the car in for the 1st service and was told that the lifters and cams need to be replaced due to a defect. The car has 3,000 miles on it!!! Dealer told me they have seen this problem in several of the '06s. Anybody have the same problem? I had been driving German cars for years and decided to try Jeep again. Obviously a big mistake....
Ok I see that this is a year old but let me tell you that I have a 1997 Cherokee Laredo and my problem ended up being one the the plugs that the wiring harness plugs into the computer sensor in the engine compartment was not snug and with the virbration of the engine it made the car stall and shut off or just act as if it was going to. Solution spend $1500 for new harness or Zip Ties yes I said Zip Ties around the plug to the mount on the car and it fixed it. Now I have other issues with The fuel system somewhere. Its always something.
Check that the plug on your wiring harness is snug to the computer my 97 was doing somethings like this and my mechanic went crazy took wverything apart and just happened to hit the wires while it was running and it shut off of all the things. Now we have a problem with something in the fuel system hopefully not the fuel pump. I only have 95,000 miles on it.
Ok so I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 95,000 miles I am experiencing a problem where while driving it will begin to stall as I am starting out or comeing to a stop. I have figured out that if I feather the gas it makes it kind of back fire and it will stop after a few seconds of that usually. But not sure what it is. I have replace the whole exhaust manifold, tone a tune up on it with all the bells and whistles. My fuel pump seems to be working fine. My car also feels as if it has lost some of its power. PLEASE HELP
Just purchased this with 150K miles. Starts OK, but after 10 minutes on the road, it begins to hesitate and 'cut-out' under acceleration. Further, I disconnected the battery over-night to 'reset' the computer and this morning the engine will not turn over, and there is a red light blinking under the speedometer/tach in sequence with the clock, left turn signal and a few other various interior lights. Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you. Paul
I also have just recently developed a stalling/chugging problem. The jeep either just shuts off without notice or goes into a "barely running" mode where the rpm's drop low and moving the gas pedal has no effect. It can do either at idle or while driving down the road at a good rate of speed. When it is not having it's "problem", it runs smooth as silk and has plenty of power. The crankshaft sensor has been changed but I still have the problem. The shop has now put a new coil into it to let me try for the weekend. I replaced the cap and rotor and air filter just for routine maintenance. Any other suggestions?
Comments
Eric
Now that I know Jeeps stance on this, I guarantee you that this will be the last.
BUY A DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER, I KNOW THAT ALL MAKES HAVE THEIR PROBLEMS BUT THEIR ANSWER SAYS IT ALL.
first they replaced my crankshaft sensor then my ignition coil/cylinoid and it ended up being the PCM all along- that's why they can't get a good read on diagnostics.
hope that helps!
tidester, host
Greg
Since the crank sensor was replaced the last time, I've had no problems, but it's only been a couple of thousand miles.
Until Thursday the 10th of August. While fully warm, in gear, and at idol the engine died
without warning. When I tried to start it back up the gauges (gas, bat, temp, and oil pres.)
all went to '0' position, but everything else functioned. The starter cranks just fine but would not start.
I used a generic OBD wand and got a P0726-0728 code. (Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance intermittent)
The computer only gives the error code while in this condition!! This condition lasted and
did not resolve until the next morning. At cold start up the gauges all worked fine and the
vehicle fired right up. No more error code either.
Dealer saw no code and did nothing else about it.
Drove home from dealer, died again. Same result. Problem resolved after an hour.
Grand Cherokees show codes on the odometer by cycling the key on and off. This system does NOT work while
the problem exists. The OBD wand DOES work to retrieve codes, but again only while the PCM is overheated. The odometer codes work after the PCM cools but shows "done".(which
means that there are no error codes) This is because the crankshaft position sensor began shorting out causing the stalling. This DAMAGES the PCM. Once the PCM is damaged it begins to overheat and shuts down the 5 volt CCD bus which includes the gauges. Once cooled the PCM does a "reset" clearing the OBD codes in the computer and the engine starts as if nothing is wrong. This is why the "mechanics" can't find anything wrong. If this is the problem you are having you need to replace BOTH the Crankshaft position sensor and the PCM. PCM is $600 dealer $400.00 exchange at CSK or a company called ECU direct will rebuild yours in 24 hours for $279 with free return ground shipping. -ecudirect.com-
The initial problem was that vehicle would not start when the key was turned to the start position. The engine would turn over but not catch. It would take increasingly more effort (multiple turns of the key) to start the engine. Also, pumping the gas pedal before turning the ignition key would help.
I took the jeep to a mechanic who diagnosed a fuel pressure problem and replaced the fuel pump assembly including the strainers and fuel filter.
After getting the vehicle back it started like a charm (instantly) and ran great in city driving.
About a week after that we took the jeep on a long trip (maybe 1500km) including through the Rockies. We did not notice anything on the way out, but it was raining heavy and we were more concerned with hitting wildlife and trucks to pay attention to the engine.
On the return trip we noticed that accelerating to passing speed (from 100km/h to 125km/h) "seemed" to take longer than we would have expected. Mind you, this is the first mountain driving we have done with the jeep. In the weeks after, the starting problem returned and is getting worse just like before.
Accelerating from 0-60km/h on a hill seems fine except that I do not get pushed back in my seat like I used to at 40km/h. I've put on about 2000km since the initial service.
I took the jeep back to the mechanic who went on a road test with me. He hooked up a test computer but did not find any problems. He said the passing speed problem was that I had a 4.0L engine. However, he did not and would not test it under the conditions I had described (i.e. his max test speed was around 90km/h).
Starting the engine in the morning takes considerable effort. It takes 2 or 3 turns of the key for about 3 seconds for the engine to catch.
If I start the engine and let it run for a few minutes then turn it off, restarting the engine usually happens on the first turn. If I leave it sit for a few hours I have to turn the key to the run position for a minute then start the engine and it catches within a few seconds on the first turn.
Worth noting is that it took 3 tries for the mechanic to find the right fuel pump. The electrical connections on the first 2 would not work. The mechanic said you can order the correct part (according to catalog) from a supplier for a Jeep Cherokee and be shipped a fuel pump that will not work (i.e. wrong electrical connection). In other words there are different versions of the fuel pump electrical connector on the same model year. I do not know if he ended up using an OEM fuel pump or not.
Also, the battery was replaced with a heavy duty one last winter.
I hope thats enough info. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
Doug
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone out there who might have a similar problem and any potential solutions? The squeeking may be loud at times, but, I don't believe that it means that there is a problem? Thanks in advance!
:mad:
1) Crankshaft
2) Camshaft Sensors
3) Ignition Coil
4) Cylinoid
5) Air Idle Control
6) PCM- this is what actually fixed my car after all that time, money, and work. Hope that helps with your problem, I know it's frustrating.
It is a very annoying problem, can you give some inputs on what might be the problem or can you send me your collected posts regarding 2005 stalling?
The Jeep was sitting for a couple weeks while we were away, and has not been on the highway all month.
I added a fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank yesterday. The Jeep is supposed to only have Premium Unleaded Gas, but since the spike in prices I started putting in regular gas (I was told it would not matter much). I am afraid that it has clogged it up.
Anyone have any suggestions?
My 1998 Honda Accord V6 Coupe moonroof does not fully close. The motor seems to be fine but leaves a 1" open gap. I haven't checked the fuse since I figured if the motor is working, the fuse must be okay. I can't seem to see anything obstruction the moonroof also. I tried to manually close the roof from the plug in the ceiling in the backseat but it will only close up to that 1" gap. Does anyone have any suggestions? In the worst case, how do I remove the interior roof liner to get access to the mechanisms? How about repair cost $$ ??
Thanks.
I am experiencing a problem where while driving it will begin to stall as I am starting out or comeing to a stop. I have figured out that if I feather the gas it makes it kind of back fire and it will stop after a few seconds of that usually. But not sure what it is. I have replace the whole exhaust manifold, tone a tune up on it with all the bells and whistles. My fuel pump seems to be working fine. My car also feels as if it has lost some of its power. PLEASE HELP
Further, I disconnected the battery over-night to 'reset' the computer and this morning the engine will not turn over, and there is a red light blinking under the speedometer/tach in sequence with the clock, left turn signal and a few other various interior lights.
Any advise would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Paul