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This is a problem well known to Jeep & think that they did a recall in the States - no such luck in the UK. My dealer tried to say that the whole computer system needed to be replaced...
Problem lies just behind the glovebox & it's the Blower Motor Relay / Resistor Motor. Part costs about £100. The part numbers are below:
Jeep Computer
05012699AA
2000 WJ Grand Cherokee
s24 Aircon & Heating
ss000160
Item 12
Service Repair Kit 05102406AA
I was determined to keep taking it back to the dealer until it was fixed. I'm retired, so I had plenty of time to keep after them. I think they do try to wear your patience thin though.
Sorry guys
1) Malfunction Indicator Light is on, and the code displayed is P0601- PCM Internal Controller Failure.
2) Since 5,000, the car has displayed a message that the passenger side door is open even when it isn't. I've had this fixed 3 times (they've tightened connectors and replaced sensors) but it will just work for a week or so and then break again. Weird thing is, sometimes I'll be driving and suddenly the door will register as closed.
3) Heated seats don't work on either side
I've read that there is a federal 8 year/80,000 mile warranty on the PCM, but that sometimes dealerships are reluctant to replace this part. Does that code mean the PCM needs to be replaced? Also, are these problems related or independent?
Thanks for your help-
Natalie
As to the remote, take a quarter and open the remote and remove the battery. This will prevent it from locking the doors. Good luck, and stay off of I-70
Anyone out there who may be using this product for awhile?
Cost for the oil is not an issue. Would like to extend the life of this engine as far as posible. Thanks in advance
#2 Also, check your fuel pump and/or filter. If your pump is bad or your filter clogged it will starve your engine of precious fuel and cause it to "miss". If when you would push the throttle it would cut back, this would be the problem. It would severely affect performance. Just check everything I said. I too have a 94 with the 5.2 and the fuel pump did mine that way. The way to check your fuel pump is to have some on turn your ignition to the on position with you standing in back of your jeep, even laying under your fuel tank, listening for a "whirr" or "buzz". If you don't hear anything your fuel pump is gone. If you do then check your fuel filter its on the fuel line in front of the tank. Take it off and replace it. I hope this solves your issue. BTW a fuel pump will set you back about $300.
If you have the time and the problem is not in the head unit
you need to remove the headliner from the rear to access an FM connection. I do not have the shop CD with me anymore. But I think the part that sometimes fails at this location is a modulator or something. Anyway it has something to do with receiving the FM signal along with the fender mounted antenna. The CD and perhaps a printed copy of the manual showed the location of the modulator on the passenger rear side inside the headliner.
love my jeep
Ok, #1: After running for awhile, maybe 15-30 mins, engine starts to occasionally idle rough when stopped for a red light. It doesn't do it all the time, but still quite often. I've heard some suggestions, like: plugs, fuel injection system clogged up, fuel pump, exhaust... anybody had a similar problem?
#2. When I turn left a certain way (turning right and then turning left) there's a knocking sound coming from my left wheel. Any suggestions what this might be?
To #1--Check for vacuum leaks near or on--the throttle body, or the intake manifold. There will be a slight hissing sound while idling.-- Check the PCV vavle and CCV hose, they could be clogged and their only like $5. Check your fuel and air filters. Just remember to check the cheapest and easiest things first, they're usually the first things to cause problems, plus they're cheap and easy :-D.
To#2 sounds like your ball joints may be going bad. Or maybe they're just loose or starving for chassis lube. Have someone check torque and lube your suspension/steering components(these are always neglected therefor always problematic.
I hope I helped.
(P.S. I WAS TOLD NOT TO REMOVE THE RESONATOR THAT SITS AT THE BUMPER BECAUSE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF GETTING AN EXHAUST DRONE WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY)
You've been here a while so you probably know that all caps is harder for most of us to read, and many people just skip over those posts. I'm guessing you need a Flowmaster keyboard now. :shades:
Any ideas? PCM? (there is also the most common "check 4 wheel drive switch" light and beeb that has been on and off over the three years I owned it)
Relay? read where ASD relay is in that loop,but not sure if a relay could be intermitant.
Anyone else been down this road?New Sensor seem to be working as it shows below 1.0 when light is not on changes voltage when driving it
Any suggestions?
Steve
In a previous thread someone mentioned a PCM. What is it?
thanks
Powertrain Control Module.
tidester, host