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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I just noticed a slight shaking in my 1996 328i (109K miles) at speeds between 20-35mph. At higher speeds, goes away. I always maintained the car with the dealership, I cannot imagine what this is except: I need new tires on the rear set.
Do you think this could be the cause. The tread (Toyos) is down to the minimum, but I want to trade the car in, but I want to resolve this issue first.
Any suggestions are welcome. Should I have it evaluated at the dealership?
specialst, you'll save big over what the dealerships charge.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Reprogram didn't take and now they are replacing computer module. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR :mad:
Pursuant to above post, I also have my 'check engine light' now for weeks it won't go off (another issue!) I thought it was the gas cap, but I've taken it off and put it back on several times. I think I'm due for an emissions check does that have anything to do?
What could it be, the engine runs perfectly.
Good luck....
Thanks for your input. Appreciated.
Yes, the dealer is resolving the issue after the failed reprogramming, which I am sure they tried twice.
Hope your issue is less involved. Between the holiday and the wait time for ordering the part, this is taking a week.
Good Luck!
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I can't determine how to access it from the underneath.
NOTE:
A/C system is drawn off.
Notes On Replacing Drier Bottle Or Drier Insert
The drier bottle or drier insert does not have to be replaced at regular service intervals in a functioning, leakproof A/C system.
However, the drier bottle or drier insert must be replaced without fail in the event of:
* fouling of the refrigerant by filings/shavings (e.g. when the compressor is clamped)
* a leaking A/C system or loss of refrigerant
* the refrigerant circuit being opened for a period exceeding 24 hours , e.g. during repair work.
Follow instructions for dryer bottle replacement.
Remove complete right headlight.
Remove holder for headlight mounting.Unfasten screws.
NOTE: Pull pressure and intake pipes upwards and fit with plugs if A/C system remains open for longer than one hour.
Installation:
Replace sealing rings.Unfasten screws and pull drier flask upwards to remove.
Background: I am replacing the compressor as it began knocking and recently it became loud enough to hear it inside the car driving down the highway with the windows closed.
New Problem: I was told there is no in-line filter screen as is found on many US systems. Is this correct? If so, how would I check for or debris/shavings from the compressor except to examine the inside of the lines where I disconnect them from the compressor?
Looking fwd to your response.
Wash out the lines. I've never done that before.
I'm guessing you remove the lines from the car and run [what] through them? How do you dry them out again?
Thanks again Mr. S.
The refurbished compressor contains 1.5 oz. of ICE32 oil. I have not lost any oil. Do I need to add any?
I'm not an expert on AC and due to chance of injury etc, I'm not keen on advising you on a casual basis. :shades:
I plan to blow air through the high side line toward the dryer (disconnected of course) into a cloth rag and inspect it for particles.
What about the oil capacity? Any idea whether the 1.5 oz. pre-charge will be adequate? I can't find the specs online and I haven't purchased a manual yet (although I will probably do so real soon). Found a used Bentley brand at Amazon.com for $107.
Thanks.
* The oil should be replaced whenever a ruptured component is replaced, because the quick discharge causes some of the oil to be released along with the refrigerant
* Use only PAG oil in an R-134a system (not mineral oil)
* Use only mineral oil in an R-12 system (not PAG oil).
* Add the right amount of oil into the system when replacing a major component such as the compressor; condenser, or evaporator.
* When replacing the compressor; drain the oil from the old compressor and measure the amount. Turning the clutch plate by hand helps "pump" out any remaining oil. Inject an equal amount of fresh oil. Note: service compressors are shipped full of oil; this oil must be drained before the new compressor is installed.
* When replacing the condenser or evaporator, add 2 oz. of oil to the system.
* When replacing a receiver/dryer, add 1 oz. of oil to the system.
* You do not need to add any oil when replacing a hose, since hoses do not collect much oil.
* Oil can be added to a charged system using the Robinair 18065 oil injector and a manifold gauge set, or the injector bottle on the ACR4 unit.
Now those figures are not "total fill capacity", which I guess is for a total overhaul of everything.
Those specs are:
Nippondenso 160 ML +/- 15 ML
Seiko 180 ML +/- 20 ML
So I guess what this is saying is that you still need to know the capacity of the compressor and then add extra if you replace the dryer or the evaporator, right?
The total fill specs seem to indicate something like 5 or 6 oz. I think an ounce is about 30 ML
Funny German names in there, huh? :P
PS: Watch out---from 9/98 build date, you have different refrigerant capacities than prior to 9/98.
Minimum Charging Pressure is 10 BAR
full synthetic does not have naturally occurring aromatic hydrocarbons and other compounds which cause sludge like dyno oil, so I would stick with that, although topping off with dyno between changes is fine. Amsoil is not snake oil, its a great oil if a) you can afford it, b) you change your filter every 5k but not the oil, and c) test the oil for breakdown around 10k to decide whether to change it. I'd rather buy Q from wally world and change both every 5k.
I don't know whether to laugh or cry. I had to replace rodent damage to a previous car when they chewed on the A/C wiring ($700!) in the fender and have taken several anti-rodent measures including D-Con packs and moth (camphor) cakes under the hood.
I don't mind those chipmunks running a Club Med for rodents on my property but this *&#@ has got to stop. :mad:
Any ideas. :confuse: :sick:
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
As for discouraging the little buggers, I think trapping them or that sticky paper stuff might decrease the surplus population. But an all out cure? Probably not possible unless you rodent-proof your garage, which isn't easy unless it's all concrete.
We have a couple of outdoor cats and we have had zero rodent problems since they arrived.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I've had similar problems w my E39 and other cars. They occurred because the motion detectors are VERY sensitive and can be triggered by falling leaves or even a gut of wind especially if the sunroof is left open. If you don't believe me try dropping a pencil thru the open sunroof after locking the doors.
The cure is simple, the motion detector can be disabled by a second push of the lock button (after the first push to lock the doors) on the remote.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Anybody ever have this problem on any car?
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
After reading all of the threads on many websites about BMW’s problems with these rims and run-flat tires, it became quite clear what the problem is. The rims were designed too weak to take the impact of normal on-road driving. The problem is exacerbated by the run-flat tires, which are very hard and have strong sidewalls resulting in too much of the normal road force from small bumps being transmitted to the rim rather then absorbing some of the shock in the tire. Confirming the hundreds of comments on reliable Internet sites about the faulty rims and too hard run-flat tires is the reviews of Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Run Flat tires on cites from every supplier of these tires. In general, the comments conclude that the combination of weak 18-inch rims and 245/R40/18 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Run Flat tires (original equipment) was a very bad mistake by BMW. One comment, similar to most, says: “These tires are terrible! Harsh ride, noisy and prone to impact bubble in the side walls from hitting small potholes. . . I am going to switch to non run flats . . . What was BMW thinking when [they] picked these tires?” [http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/readReviewsTire.do?postalCodeSelected=90291&ra- =%2Ftires%2Fbridgestone%2Fsize%2FviewProductResults&pc=25428&ar=40&rd=18&cs=245]-
We asked the Service Manager at Santa Monica BMW to replace the rims under warranty. Not only was he rude, but he was uninterested in any discussion about comments on many websites about the defective rims. It seemed apparent to me that he had been through this problem all too often before and did not want to deal with it again.
I then called BMW NA Customer Service. They were very nice, but totally useless. After four phone calls and escalation to a customer service supervisor, I began to understand the way it works. Customer Service has no authority whatsoever, all they could do was call the Service Manager at the dealership and get the same answer you had already had gotten. They seem to be in business of playing “good guy” to take the heat off of the Service Manager by providing the same answer as if it came from an independent, higher authority at BMW, which it does not.
Not willing to accept the result, I contacted the Director of Parts and Service at Santa Monica BMW, and told him of our displeasure with how his Service Manager had handled the problem, and asked him to involve BMW NA regional “team” to evaluate the problem and try to get some help. To his credit, he seemed very professional and appeared to want to help. He clearly understood the problem . . . you should be able to drive a BMW on normal streets and not have the rims break. Next day, he got a response from BMW regional team . . . “they would not participate” . . . meaning they would not cover it under the warranty or assist the dealer in any way.
My next step is to contact the General Manager of BMW Santa Monica and alert him to the problem. We certainly won’t be buying any more cars at Santa Monica BMW so he loses a loyal customer because the service folks won’t handle this problem. No response from the GM of Santa Monica BMW after two calls.
Next step is a letter to the CEO of BMW North America, and a compliant with U.S. DOT about the situation with these failing rim/tire combination. Perhaps DOT will investigate.
There are some vibrations along with the noise, but the car steers OK. Could this be a belt? I've had the car serviced, and the mechanic could not repeat the problem - but said every checked out fine.
Any ideas what this might be?
At that time, I pointed out many luxury cars (mercedes, BMW and more) at SFO and they didn't have the front license plate because no front license plate holder. The policeman got confused but he doesn't want to recall the ticket.
What is a CA law about the front license plate requirement? If there is no exception, then how can I contact BMW to handle this issue? because their design.
If the BMW dealer told me about the front license plate for my car is true, then where should I get the statement or something to show it to the police in case the policeman stop me again in the future.
Thanks in advances.
If the cop had been in a good mood, he would have given you a "fix-it" ticket rather than a traffic violation.
Maybe your dealer should pay the fine for bad advice.
I suspect this is just part of the revenue-gathering going on now. This type of ticket has long been the "sucker punch" for motorists parked in public places.
Or.. move to Kentucky! No front plates! :P
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No need to go that far, Arizona has no front plates either.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I once got one of those in NH because my plate mount had been knocked off by a careless parker.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Plus a revenue stream for already bloated budgets and bennies.
Never seen so many cops looking to give tickets since this recession started.
Not that it matters... An '88 BMW is pretty maintenance intensive.. that's what all your money is going to go for... Even for a second car, figure $100/mo, if nothing big breaks....
Personally, I wouldn't get an automatic in an old BMW..
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The E28(1982-1988) 5ers are very nice cars but, as kyfdx pointed out, they are getting a bit long in the tooth. Still, you can usually get at least 300,000 miles out of a well maintained car. The 1988 528e had the so-called "Super eta" motors, which have a wee bit more horsepower and a higher redline than the 1982-1987 eta motors. The eta motors were designed for fuel economy and low speed torque, and they operate at relatively(for a BMW) low engine speeds. The autobox is well suited to a super eta car. As for negatives, the engine has a timing belt which MUST be changed every four years/50,000 miles. The motor also requires a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles(a very simple job). I'd definitely have the car examined by a knowledgeable BMW tech.
As for running costs, a lot will depend on your willingness to perform minor maintenance/repairs and the proximity of a good dealer or indie BMW tech. If it was my car, I'd change the engine oil every 5,000 miles, the aforementioned valve adjustment at 15,000 miles, the plugs/filters/ATF/final drive oil every 30,000 miles, the coolant every two years, and the brake fluid annually.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Cali must be desperate for revenue, around here that'a fix-it-in-ten-days-or-pay ticket.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Thanks for your reply, I was wondering if you remember how much it cost for you to pay for the drive belt repair. I have a 2002 530i, 62K miles. I got them do a free inspection, they said that I need to get the drive belt changed for 210$ and Rear Stabilizer link for 272$ (including tax,labor and parts).
Thanks
Prasanna
Thanks