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Comments
Sounds/Looks like you both have the car I want to buy... I'm looking to buy the 08 V6 4Dr w/Nav in Basque Red. I would expect to have the Wheel Locks/Trunk Liner/Floor Mats in the deal for free. I would like to buy the extended Warranty (8yr/120K $0 deductible for $995 sounds great, is that really just 5 years after the manufacturing runs out?), Splash Guards (list is $99), & possible the "Wood Trim" package (not sure it is worth $348). If you could send me your thoughts and pricing knowledge that would be great?
Larry Miller in Boise will only come down $250 below MSRP (this is my Costco Price, my off the street was just $100 below MSRP) for this car! They do not have a problem in selling this car at MSRP right now in Boise. I have emailed Grace Honda & Anderson Honda to see if I can get something close to ($27,404 + $635) base price and then additional $$$ based on the items listed above. If I can get that price I would either fly down or have them ship the car up. Not sure which is a better way to go but I could use a few days away from the winter here in Boise
Have a question about exteneded warranty. As you can see by the fact that I traded in a '97, I tend to keep cars a long time. I might consider an 8 year 120,000 mile warranty depending on price --don't know any warranty plans or prices yet--and if it would cover the replacement of the "dang" timing belt--don't know if the timing belt is ever covered. Any thoughts or advice?
I'll bet that WAS hard to find!
Great deal too!
On the warranty someone posted 995 but not sure if that was via a dealer.
It is a nice car. I hope you get to get it at a good price soon. The floor mats come with the car, I was referring to the all season mats. The Honda Care starts after the standard. Depending on the color combo you pick, it may have some wood trims included but I did not check into the optional wood trim package. I was only interested in the rearview camera (I also have it in my Pilot and it is great). The camera is around $700 installed. The splash guard/tray/all season mat and wheel locks all a little over $300 online (gives you a negotiation idea) and in northern ca I got quotes ranging from $1000 below MSRP to mostly $800 over invoice. I did get a better deal, however, as I mentioned earlier I think it all depends on the availability and timing. I would check the dealers' online inventory, if they have it they will be most willing to make a deal. In my case, most of the higher prices or non-responses came from the dealers who did not have the car I wanted in stock. Be patient and try the email route. Good luck.
Timing belt is not covered unless it is due to a defect, etc. Honda care pretty much covers what the std. warranty does. Actually, there is another thread on Honda extended warranty that will give you more info and resources. The online price for the 8yr/120K/$0 ded. is $995 at www.myhondawarranty.com.
Invoice on the car is $25,416 + 635 w/o the all season mats and splash guards--this is using Edmunds' figures. Your figures were for the V-6 w/o leather.
Thanks to everyone else for warranty info.
2008 Honda Accord EX Auto
Sale Price: $22,780.00
Out The Door: $24,247.05
I know the sale price is 1000 higher than the invoice, but this's the best deal so far I got...
If I pay with cash, do you guys think I can get lower price?
How close are you to Louisville? The guy at Swope I deal with from time to time is doing Accords at 1% over invoice plus fees (about $500), so the coupe would be $23,069.46 for the car, destination, and title/doc fees. That is his no haggle price, and you may could talk him lower, I would think.
Dennis
Good luck. I just got my license plate today from DMV. Adding up numbers I came up with lucky number 21. BINGO !
I guess you will enjoy the V6 EX-L engine revving up on acceleration while strengthening its muscles.
Go to Acura TL forum and see how much others pay for TL base model ($29000 or so plus 2.9% financing - extra saving $1500 if you finacing your accord through bank), whose quaility is MUCH MUCH better than the accord - in addition to things like bluetooth, HID, very good interior finish (leather) etc.
TL drives much better (solid) than the accord. Go and test dirve one.
Mike
I would agree that if you have to have a new car now you should always look at what is out there that offers a good deal - rebates, promo finance or lease, dealer incentives, etc.
In a lot of places there (like here) there is one Acura dealer within 2-3 hour drive and they don't like to deal (since they have no competition).
If you want an Accord and plan on financing or leasing, then I would wait for better days.
If you want an Accord and your dealers will not deal, either find a different dealer or wait until the dealers will deal.
Unless you are at the end of lease or your old clunker is fixing to die, most of use DO NOT NEED a new car .
Dennis
TL is an entry-level luxury car but accord is not (you can definitely feel the quality difference)
With the same mount of money, you still prefer the accord and say that accord has a better value?????
How about Lexus ES350 vs Carmry V6 leather. If their sale prices are the same, Do you still prefer to have Carmry?
I do not buy that the Accord has a higher resale value than the TL (how much? 2% differences?). Beside if you consider the resale value as one of the important factors to buy a car, you might want to get one at the price around $15000. You will never lost too much after a few years of driving (up to $15000 - resale at $0).
Thanks!
Dennis
I'm being quoted $21741 for an EX manual 4cyl Accord, this is through my car insurance/auto loan USAA car buying program. This doesn't include tax and other fees - can someone advise if this is a fair price?
Also - we're in the market to buy a car because our other Honda was totalled in a car accident, so we absolutely need to buy a car, however with the lack of incentives out there, I'm wondering whether I should wait until there are better deals? Your thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
I like that " only 2k less" this man has money to burn.
Dennis
BTW, a dealer told me that the leather models are in short supply right now and so he does not discount those as much. Could be just his dealership, regional, or maybe nationwide.
Dennis
I think the price you have should be considered good. there have been many prices quoted higher and i think invoice w/ dest is 28039. That seems like 1% profit (based off the 27404 car invoice) for the dealer. Not many of us are getting dealers to go that low. If it is the car you want then go for it! It's a good deal, My local dealers in Boise are not going below 30700 for this car. the best Web price i have recieved is from Anderson in CA for 28900.
Try to get it for $29,000 OTD.
It's good deal. Go for it. I had to pay a little more. How many percent of TTL on top of it? What state/ city are you in, if you dont mind? I am curious about the car price in that locality. That car is a "super beast" that loves to rev up at times, I tell you.
However, outside the twin cities metro area there, is no co-op advertising fee.
What are you paying for the car?
Rule #1 of getting a good lease deal is to negotiate the price of the car just like you are going to buy it.
You want to be somewhere close to invoice including dealer fee, but I am told the leather models are in short supply so you will likely have to pay more.
Once you have the price negotiated nice and low, then you simply plug that into a lease calculator along with the lease buy rate and you get your payment.
Dennis
The dealer was offering $26941 with Nav OTD but it turns out it was cloth interior and not Leather which was a no go for me. He also offered an EXL V6 4DR W/O Nav for the same price - OTD. This is what I was looking for the whole time. (As a side not, he quoted me an OTD price on the EXL V6 WITH Nav - $28138, before accessories) (VA tax is 4%)
Dealer B was offering the same car but at 27689 OTD. (4Dr EXL V6 and no Nav)
So I decided to go with Dealer A - 2008 EXL V6 4DR W/O Nav. After adding splash guards, wheel locks, sun roof visor, pin stripes, and door and fender guards, I had $27500 OTD. I went with Metal Metallic and grey leather.
Since I know some here are interested in the actual car price, it was $25331 or $25966 including DEST ($635).
If you want the 2 dealers and contact names, email me and I can provide them. Based on my experience, the car price was pretty much non-neg. They moved a little on the accessory prices but I suspect that is where they are making their money so not as much movement as I had hoped. All in all, it was a good experience and I drove it home this afternoon.
Car: 23099.00
Dest: 635
Tax was like ~1616
with tags, dealer fees etc...
our OTD price was $25905.88
Does this sound good?
Just purchased a EX V6 from Larry Hopkins Honda in Sunnyvale,CA, $23,620 +TTL
Best Experience I've had in purchasing a car. Contact Habib,Internet Manager, the car was in stock,3 miles on the odometer + 2.8 miles for tech checkout drive. No Hassles. Price via emails = $25,855 OTD,
No Extras thrown in! No financing.
Honda of Serramonte could beat this price by $100 and Grace Honda could match it, but they did not have the car in stock and would have to Dealer trade for one. I did not want any extra miles on it.
Thanks to everyone whose comments help me get a Good Deal !!!
I'm in my early twenties and buying my first car. I want to make sure I'm getting a good deal. My best friend happens to be moving to Asia and he wants to sell me his car (I drive a 1993 clunker minivan), he said he would give me a good price. I would be paying his price in full cash. Can you please tell me if this is a good deal in my favor? Or is this sale more in his favor? Perhaps should I try to negociate a different price, and if so, what price should I try for and what should I settle for? I've spent the last few days doing a lot of research and compared to all the online listings I've found his price was great...but I would imagine those prices can be negociated, so perhaps I'm not getting a great deal after all.
I could not bring myself to spend so much money at this age unless I knew I was getting a great deal.
Please help, any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
The Car specs:
2005 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe, 5 speed Automatic, with navigation and XM sat radio.
Full leather seats, driver power seats, power sunroof with tilt, premium sound, 6 in dash multi CD & mp3 player, power mirrors + locks + steering + windows, keyless remote entry, and all the standard other features you'd expect with a car that is loaded like this (not sure which airbags come standard and such). The interior had that metal trim kit I believe it's called, was all black otherwise. Looked sweet!
No rear spoiler, mud flaps or anything special on the exterior.
I noticed it said "Ultra Low Emission Vehicle" when I saw it, and a small ULEV logo on the exterior of the car on the side, not sure if this is a feature or not but I figured I would note it.
Condition seemed good. The car bumper was cracked on the front, like it got hit by something, like a hockey puck, he is fully replacing it with a brand new original one from the dealership before selling me the vehicle if I buy it. Also the rims on the wheels were scratched a bit, probably from sloppy parallel parking or getting too close to the curb a few times, I bet he's not the best driver. He said the dealership would polish the scratchs up. The dealership will also be cleaning it up before the sale.
Mileage: 26000 miles
His special cash price for me, his best friend, is $18,000.
Is this a good deal or a rip off? :confuse: Should I be negociating a lower price? I would be paying him in cash...
I'm not sure if the location has anything to do with car prices as well, but I live in Southern California.
Thanks all for your time!
Kelly Blue book price for that car @ 26K miles in excellent condition is $22,755. In real life, price is usually a little bit lower, sometimes a few thousand lower. Kelly Blue Book is only a guide.
My '95 Accord 4-dr EX I4 @ 200K miles in excellent condition was priced by Kelly Book @ $5000+ But I sold it only @ $2,500.
Frankly, I wouldn't give a "dime" for the navi as you can buy a portable one for less than $400 that is probably far better than anything in a "05 car.
If your friend is off to Asia in the very near future he's sort of in a bind to sell...
the car obviously is not in mint condition. And it won't be easy for him to find another buyer coming up with all cash.
Was it garaged? You might want to check Carfax to determine if its been in an accident...considering the damage to the front bumper.
Offer $15,000 with a max of $16,000....that's all a dealer would offer. But, to be perfectly safe, have a trusted mechanic look it over first.
.
Be sure to have a mechanic or an adult who is much knowledgeable about cars and knows how to check the car thoroughly inside out before you make an offer. $15K - $16K offer is best. Check engine oil, tranny oil, brake oil, coolant, chassis, body, DMV or Carfax's accident records, test drive it at different speeds & on different road conditions, etc. Tricky guy can overflow oil in car with higher vicosity, etc. that makes engine sounds smoother with less noises...while test driving it, etc, Honda Navi is excellent on market w/ voice recognition. It also controls climate, audio, calculates MPG, shows gas stations, restaurants, etc. Also, your friend prefers selling it w/ as-is condition including the navi. So many people said Honda/ Acura navigations are best on market.
I dont think most $200 - $500+ portable navigations can compare with Honda navi. I have 2 navi on my '05 & '08 Accord and prefer them over the portable ones. My' 08 navi uses ZAGAT software that's one the best ones on market now. You get what you pay for. My cousin installed a navi on his C class Mercedes. He admitted his navi is inferior to Honda's navi.
If the accident did not make structural damages to that car, @ 26K miles on the Accord V6 coupe its' nothing and I consider it as new. I have owned so many Honda V6 I can be absolutely positive on my assessment.
The Edmunds TMV value is very interesting to me as it is 2-3 grand lower than any price I could see online for an equivalent vehicle.
I just got the VIN today so I will run a carfax on it and see its history. I don't think the accident on the bumper was even caused when the vehicle was in motion. Looked more like something was stabbed through the bumper or hit with a hockey stick / golf club (for some stupid reason, if thats the case).
Much thanks for your reply on what to ask for Jack. I don't want to offer such a low amount that I would insult my friend or he would just laugh at me. Last night I was thinking, ok maybe start at 16,5, and then he might push me back to 17 grand...but you're saying quite a bit lower and that gives me confidence that I have plenty of room for negociating from that 18,000 asking price.
What do I say to him if he says, "If a dealer would give me _____, why wouldn't I just sell it to a dealer?" From what I understand a dealer just rips you off anything if you straight up sell a vehicle to them. In a private deal shouldn't the seller be getting a somewhat good deal as well? The reason I'm asking is maybe you've considered this and you feel the 15 grand is still a good price for him to get cash for selling the vehicle.
Thanks again jack!
My friend actually will be taking it to a Honda dealership to fix a few minor things up before selling it. He would also have the mechanic there check it over, is that suffcient for before making an offer or should I still push to take the car to my own mechanic of choice?
If there is a CarMax near you, have him take it there for an appraisal and then you can pay him $1,000 more than what Carmax would pay him. That should be a be a price that is good for both people.
If you can't agree on price, he can take it back to CarMax within 7 days and take what they offered and you can buy something else more affordable when you are ready.
If the car in question has a clean Carfax/Autocheck and passes an inspection and the price is reasonable (compared to what you can get the same car for elsewhere or the trade numbers) then get it if you want it.
As far as the worth of the Nav system, the Honda system is nicer than most of the OEM systems and you do have integration. Map update are $149 + shipping + tax from http://www.hondanavi.com/. You can buy a nice Garmin for this price or a little more and get the latest maps, then update the maps next year or the year after for $75. Note that maps for some other OEM systems can cost $200-250 and up, so the Honda system is a "bargain" compared to that. I would not pay much extra for an OEM system in a used, 3 year old not - since you would have to spend money right away to get newer maps. If you got the same car w/o the Nav you could get a portable GPS to use in any car for not much more than the cost of the map upgrade. Even Honda does not think the NAV adds as much to the value of the car, when you look at lease residuals the NAV models have a lower residual percentage than non-NAV equipped models - usually 2% lower.
Dennis
How hard is it to just tap the volume, tuning button, temp control or fan speed up or down compared to giving a voice command to do the same thing?
You did not look up the price correctly.
If you check the trade in value it shows $10,775 to $8,855 for a 02 V6 coupe with all those miles on it. I don't even think RETAIL from a dealer or even certified it would be worth $16k. in fact they show retail at $14,710.
We can't see the car, but if it is in great shape then $9k-10k would be about what you could expect to get for it trading in, and maybe $1k or more less if you sold it to Carmax. $7,500 would be a really bad offer unless the car had lots of issues (body work, frame damage, engine problems, etc).
Of course, it is a negotiation. They offer you x you counter with y and you settle for z. That said, if they start this low you are not likely to talk them up to $9k or $10k, but since you looked the value up wrong you would never be happy with even a fair $10k offer .
Dennis
Jim
Remember, this is your FRIEND! both of you have to feel comfortable with the price you pay. If your friend feels pressured to sell the car quickly, he may take your low offer and be forever resentful. If he refuses your offer you can bet he will feel you are trying to take advantage of him and his need to get rid of the car.
If you buy it thinking that you paid too much (or people here tell you that you did) this too can strain your relationship.
If the car develops a problem shortly after you buy it, you may just think he knew about it and didn't tell you.
For the sake of your friendship, you may be just better off buying a different car. There are lots out there to choose from!