Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
*Gasp* Do you mean read the owner's manual? No one does that, it's much easier to just ask the question on one of Edmunds fora.
(I'm just kidding).
Honestly, the best thing you can do for your new vehicle is to read the owner's manual 3-4 times and memorize it. Most of the answers are there. I believe it does say that the CR-V is equipped with the timing chain, if not then the sales brochure does.
Generally, timing chain is a lifetime item, and on this Honda so is the fuel filter.
If you look at the maintenance section of the owner's manual, there is no schduled maintenance or replacement for it.
But please, read the manual more than once.
The Owners Manual for my 1999 CR-V and my significant other's 2002 Civic both include information on changing the Timing Belt. There's even an entry in the Index for "Timing Belt".
If your Owners Manual doesn't have that information, then your engine has a Timing Chain, and does not need to be replaced (according to Honda).
The advice to check the Owners Manual was good advice, even if you didn't like it.
JM2C
So for 3 winters in a row, at 3 big milage jumps (10k, 20k, and now just shy of 30k) my Check Engine light has come on.
(And yes it's a little yellow light on the left side of the dashboard that looks like a little engine that is lit)
Any thoughts?
I wasn't just trying to be snarky earlier. The best place for maintenance information is the owner's manual. You can find all kinds of wacky maintenance ideas in other locations.
Not sure what you meant about that but being new to Hondas this is my first one , I have read the manual every night before i go to bed since purchasing the CR-V last week. had purchased a used Corolla a year ago and someone mentioned then that I wouldn't need to replace the timing belt like a Honda. I guess that is why I was worried about it.I plan on keeping the CR-V for several years and want to do all maintence when it is required to be done. Thanks all for the help :P
Has anyone had a similar problem? Was it an easy fix? Should I steer clear.
Thanks in advance!
Arden
A grinding/moaning/groaning sound from the rear end while turning usually indicates a problem with the rear differential. Most times it's fixed by changing the fluid in the rear differential, although sometimes it takes a couple of changes to make the noise stop.
If changing the fluid eliminates the noise it means the fluid was old and needed to be changed, not that the new fluid was "hiding" the problem.
Unfortunately, only changing the fluid will let you know if it's just a fluid problem, or if the rear diff has been damaged. Use only Honda Dual Pump Fluid, as there are no substitutes.
On the bright side, I've only heard about a couple of 1st Gen CR-Vs (1997-2001) that actually had to have a rear differential replaced.
If you do buy the CR-V schedule changes of the rear differential fluid every 30,000 miles along with having the valves adjusted, both items that need to be done, but are missing from the maintenance schedules in the Owners Manual.
Good luck.
Is this likely going to be a long term problem?
Not to be rude or anyting, but if you want a no problems car, buy new. When buying used, you are buying someone else's headache. Every used car on the market is for a reason.
Only in that the fluid needs to be changed more often than the maintenance interval listed in the Oweners Manual. If a fluid change eliminates the noise then you should be fine, as long as you continue to change the fluid every 30,000 miles or so.
Please understand that the rear differential in the CR-V is not a rear differential in the normal sense. It's actually a complex hydraulic mechanism that is the heart and soul of the Honda RT4WD system.
Read the Honda CR-V Owners FAQ message board for more information, specifically post #3 RT4WD Fluid Needs Replacing and #10 How Does RT4WD Work? for more information.
Good luck.
To blueiedgod - Obviously I know that any used car is a potential for problems but it is one thing to buy not knowing there are problems and another to buy something with a problem that you've detected. Also, your comment that every used car is on the market for a "reason" incorrectly infers that every used car is being sold because it has a problem - many people sell their cars because they've outgrown them, are moving or just want something new and different. Unfortunately, used is all I can afford - I just have to make an informed decision. Thanks - I don't mean to be snarky - just wanted to respond.
1) Driver's side door "actuator" (I think) is shot resulting in power locks not working, have to unluck with the key or pull up with my hand, not worth the dealer estimate of $400 to get it fixed.
2) Tranny is a bit "quirky", sometimes down shifting hard when accelerating after almost stopping. Dealer says it checks out fine.
The fluid will not enter the lower tank. I have removed the top tank there is no blockage, I have snaked the lower tank and found no problem there. Put everything back together and no change. I'm already bald so pulling out my hair is not an option. Somebody help!!!!
I have 2 questions:
1) I tried to turn inward the 2 sideview mirrors the other day and could not. (I did not want to force them).With the holidays and all I have not had a chance to contact the dealer but is it possible these miiors are not built to fold inward?
2) I am now going back to the dealer for a second time to fix a problem that came with the car.It seems that the rear door indicator light keeps flashing on my dashboard. The first time I took it back they made a minor adjustment but alas the problem keeps coming back. One of our nice readers suggested leaving a door open when closing the back door to decrease pressure in the cabin but that did not work. Would it be unreasonable for me to ask for another car if they cannot fix this annoying problem? What a shame too because the runs great otherwise.
Thanx and happy holidays to all
What Gen CR-V do you have? Gen1 have the bolts that go from the top (inside). I haven't taken the seats out of my 05, yet, but would bet it is the same for Gen 2. Just fold the seatback and see for your self.
it seems to me you should ask for them to remove, inspect and replace the door switch (it could be faulty / intermittent), and no amount of switch position adjustment (if that were even possible and i don't think it is), or latch adjustment (i think that is all they have to work with to get the door to close tight with little to no play) is going to fix that.
there is also the possibility that the wiring to the switch is faulty (an intermittent connection).
i think this should be an easy fix for your dealership, but maybe they are concentrating on the wrong cause (maybe it's not the door/latch, but the actual switch/wiring). if it's not the wiring at the switch, perhaps there is a wiring harness connector that the switch wires plug into that is at fault.
that said, it could be that the latch was adjusted but has moved since being fixed and some door play has returned. it's impossible to say without putting your hands on the car.
this isn't something i think anyone would consider getting a new car over. in my opinion, it just needs to be seen by someone with a different plan of attack to what you are reporting. this sort of thing can take a few times to get right.
be patient, confident, but explore these other possibilities verbally with your service manager in a respectful but inquisitive manner. when they see your car for a second time for this issue and you speak to them calmly about it, i'm sure they'll get to the true root cause.
good luck.
At any rate, it is a nuisance, however if this dealer cannot get it on the next try I might take it to the Honda dealer who has always serviced my other cars.
Again, thank you and have a happy and healthy new year.
it's possible the switch in your vehicle on the rear door is a "fallout" and needs to be almost completely pushed in before changing its state, activating at almost it's fully pushed in extent. this may warrant replacement with a new switch.
sure its an annoyance, and sure its a hasstle to bring it back in... remember your attitude when speaking with the service writer can mean a good deal. if you are calm, talk about it intellegently, indicate it was worked on before, and express the confidence that they can fix it with another attempt, you're likely to get further / faster if you know what i mean.
THANK IN ADVANCE FOR YOU ADVICE!
my only comment is that our 03 odyssey which my wife and i selected is "sage brush pearl". an interesting color that looks a bit blue, green, grey depending on lighting and surroundings. we chose this color because the interior was the darkest and our little ones are pretty tough on interiors. one challenge is keeping the exterior looking sharp, because it does show dirt...not as bad as i would think black or dark blue would.
in atlanta, we have hardly a problem cooling the car quickly, first opening the front windows, and the rear side venting windows and putting the AC on high, then closing the windows. of course, we have cloth interior, not "leather", so that may play an important factor too. good thing to ask the question - not sure if external color or interior play the predominate role in interior temps while parked.
THANK IN ADVANCE FOR YOU ADVICE!
First off, that little green light by the words "Caps Lock" means that Capital letters are on. Writing in all capitals on the internet means you are shouting. Who are you yelling at? And what did we do to you that you are yelling at us for? :-(
Second, yes the black leather will get hot. Whther it is hot outside or not. Any car with black interior sitting in the sun will get hot. If your kids are going to be getting in the car shirtless, and wearing shorts, they will be very uncomfortable sitting in the sizzling hot leather.
Tinting your windows dark (including the front doors) and putting a sun shade in the windshield will help. Also, tilting the sunroof and closing the sun shade half way will reduce the amount of sun getting into the car, while allowing hot air to escape, but it still will be hot.
In the winter, leather is much much colder, and even though the front seats have heaters, the back seats, where the kids will be sitting, don't.
And no, Honda will not heat/cool quickly just sitting there idling, it needs to be driven to fully activate heating/cooling. So, a remote starter may minimize the problem, but will not solve it completly.
Honda specifies steps need to be taken to quickly heat/cool the vehicle in the OWNER's MANUAL. So, if you do get it, read the manual 3-4 times to make sure you understand what needs to be done. :-)
I did buy the 06 SE from anderson Honda in Baltimore, Maryland. I felt that they gave me a good base price of $22,800 then $550 destination and then taxes, tags.... They were really nice to deal with and I loved working with the salesman, Bob Moragne - their internet sales manager. He is just a great guy and did not try to sell me a ton of other things I really did not want.
I got a base price through my Sam's club membership from another dealer, and then Anderson matched it(before I remembered my sam's club membership the best price I had was $23,800, so it saved me a bit of money). I love my new CRV, and we'll deal with the hot summer days - you are right - the sunroof will definitely help.
Thanks for your informed feedback! I really appreciate it. Happy New Year to you all!
Today we took our 2005 CR-V back to the dealer for the third time concerning the severe pull to the right when accelerating from a stop and all the while driving after that. The pull is constant but most severe when accelerating, especially from a stop. The first two visits the dealer did four wheel alignments. These visits were last summer and just two weeks apart. The second time they charged us $76.
This time we had discovered the Honda Service Bulletin calling for realignment of the upper spring seat on the damper, which is a bit more involved than a wheel alignment. We took it with us and gave it to the service department represenative at check-in. It is obvious they had already known of this bulletin the last time we took it in but apparently they play hide the ball till you can tell them you know where it is. Not to bad-mouth the dealer too much, though, because I suspect this is a design flaw and Honda probably is very concerned about potential ramifications/expense if it had to fully correct the problem in every vehicle with these symptoms. I wonder if it might require a completely redesigned drive train. Apparently a number of people have complained to the NHTSA about this problem, which I intend to do, too.
So today the dealer said they performed the corrective action called for in the service bulletin. And the vehicle still pulls severely to the right. That's the third and last strike as far as invoking Virginia's strict Lemon Law is concerned, though actually only one strike (repair attempt) is required if the defect seriously affects safety. I believe the pull is so bad that it is dangerous. We have to deliberately and consciously pull the wheel to the left at all times while driving in order to go straight ahead -- like walking a small but head-strong dog on a leash. There also is excessive and abnormal tire wear on the front tires with fewer than 10,000 miles, obviously from steering in one direction while the car tries to drive in another.
We really like the CR-V. My wife, who is the primary driver, loves that it's compact but she still gets to sit up high in traffic. And the safety features please us considering that a new baby arrives within the next few weeks. But this steering problem is just too dangerous.
Recently I thought the problem had self-corrected. But it turned out that a slow leak took the left front tire's pressure down to about 18-pounds and that evened things up as far as staying on the road is concerned. This remedy is not recommended.
Any suggestions/advice appreciated.
you can email me directly: terrypcarter -at- cox.net
Thanks
Do keep an eye on your rear diff to be sure it isn't overheating. Just in case. Some tire manufacturers are less than accurate with the measurements on the sidewall.
I also measured the radius from the centre of the hub to the edge of tread and got around 13" on all tires, + - 2/8. According to my math my tires have a circumference of 81.68" I don't think I should have a rotational difference problem that would affect the rear diff.
I also took the car on a twenty mile ride today and the rear diff was just barely warm to the touch when I finished.
I run NEKKID :-)
(as I read this forum of so many AC compooressor exploded....)
2. CRv is known for the wind noise; if I installed the window deflector on front 2 seat; do you think it will minimise the noise???
thanks for the advise....
Window deflectors will add noise, not reduce it.
Changing the tires to a quieter tire will decrease the amount of noise inside the CR-V at highway speeds.
JM2C
I tried to reproduce this after she got home but did not see the problem again.
Does anyone has had this experience and know what is the root cause? Is the gear shift lose and I should bring it to Honda for checking?
Thanks in advance!
There was a stong smell at right rear when new. Dealer told me it was 'normal', from new exhaust system, and should be gone after 1000 miles.
He also told me I should expect to smell winter road salt burning off the exhaust system at times.
He was right.
The clutch on the 1st Gen CR-V is hydraulic. Have you ever had the clutch fluid replaced? I believe it's the same as the brake fluid change interval: 3 years/45,000 miles.
Of course I should take my own advice, as I have yet to change the clutch or brake fluid on my 1999 CR-V EX 5 speed manual.