Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

blueiedgod

Disconnect the battery and let her sit for 30 minutes. It is similar to restrating Windows when it bugs. If that doesn't help, then you have a problem. Most likely battery is sending out spikes.

mikefm58

" Anyone got any ideas? Do I have a ghost or what? "

These are the dimensions of the imagination. It is an area that we call.....The Twilight Zone.

isellhondas

Ah...a car battery can't "send out spikes!"

rockycow33

I'd check battery terminal connections and clean them and have the battery checked. Puzzling.

miffed

It covered everything but $25.00. Which I thought was reasonable. The extended warranty was 850.00 for 6 years or 100,000 miles. I purchased another one with my 2006 CRV it cost 1,500.00 it was 6 years or 100,000 miles again. This new policy is different if I do not use it and sell the car before 100,000 or if i just never use it they will give me it all back. I know this sounds expensive but I have had quite a few Honda's I'll take my chances. If not and it breaks I guess it will be well worth it.

kia2

i have a 1997 HONDA CRV, MY PROBLEM IS THAT WHEN I MAKE SPEED OVER 25MILES THE CAR BEGIN TO VIRBRATE, AND I NEED TO KNOW THE PART TO GET TO STOP IT FROM VIRBRATING.

varmint

Clean out the gunk from between your wheel spokes. Sounds like a tire is out of balance.

Karen_S

If you are new to using message boards, you are most likely unaware that using all capital letters indicates YELLING. It would be most appreciated if you turned off the caps lock.

Thanks for your cooperation!

mikefm58

Could also be loose lug nuts. Check all those first, then I'd take the vehicle in and have them rebalance the tires.

ilike2drive

I have a 5-speed manual transmission 2005 Honda CRV. Between 3250 and 3750 RPMs in any gear, when letting my foot off the throttle (and when my foot is off the clutch), the engine becomes loud as if I am hitting a specific resonance frequency. A mild vibration occurs, not a terrible noise or vibration but one that makes listening to the radio somewhat less satisfying. The noise does not occur (even at similar RPM range) in neutral.

I brought it to the dealer. He said it was normal. He informed me that CRV's are just noisier than the 2003 Accord (my other car) and less well noise insulated.

Is the dealer correct that this represents a normal sound? Do I have any problem at all with the vehicle that I should be concerned with (e.g., Could my tail pipe be loose or the exhaust be loose from the manifold?)? The dealer said that the fact that the sound goes away immediately when the clutch is depressed means the noise is due to the engine working against the forward movement of the car and the noise is not of concern, nor repairable.

By the way, when I asked the dealer's repair rep about this during a test drive, he said that if there was a problem with the exhaust, muffler, etc. that these problems tend to occur at around 1750 RPM's, not at 3000+ RPM.

Any advice? Anyone? Should I bring it to another dealer? Has anyone heard of this before? Others in the forum threads have commented about vibrations but none that I see limited to the specific RPM range as outlined above.

Thanks.

poorrichardptt

Hello to all !
This is poorrichard. I just finished arbitration with Honda to repurchase my 2005 Honda CRV! The Honda Service folks performed the TSB and supposedly found a bad tire. after 5 times at attempting to repair by Adamantly stating that : "It is a normal characteristic for the Honda CRV to pull to the right", I had a final repair attempt by Honda Division Parts and Service manager who stated the crv was performing as designed. None of the repair attemts cleared the PTTR. Only two of the attempts did they do anything other than to utter "it is a normal characteristic..."

I went to BBB and requested a technical expert and he agreed that the CRV had some sort of alignment problem like; pulling to the right at all times when accelerating.
The Honda rep at the hearing admitted that the CRv has one drive axel shorter than the other.
The Arbitrator drove it and agreed the PTTR was there.

Any car manfactured like that WILL pull to the right and arbitrator agreed.

theracoon

The Honda rep at the hearing admitted that the CRv has one drive axel shorter than the other.
The Arbitrator drove it and agreed the PTTR was there.

Any car manfactured like that WILL pull to the right and arbitrator agreed.

Any front wheel drive car with uneven length drive shafts will pull during hard acceleration. It's called torque steer.

Pulling during easy acceleration, or while driving at a constant speed is not normal and is not caused by uneven drive shaft lengths.

My 1999 CR-V does not pull during normal acceleration, and does not pull while driving along at a constant speed. It does pull if I really "floor it."

I'm sorry Honda wasn't able to fix the PTTR problem with your CR-V. But please be aware that it is not a design flaw, and is not something that every CR-V has a problem with, despite your comments about uneven drive shaft lengths.

JM2C

phil_qc

Some pull, some don't... my 2005 EX PTTR...

I can't understand why there is still
no real fix for this problem ???

(I'm not talking about tires, tsb or subframe "solutions")

Phil.

jimbres

I delayed the 2-3 shift on my '06 CR-V EX w/MT until 3800 rpm but did not hear anything unusual. Same result (or lack of result) when I repeated this experiment with the 3-4 shift. To be sure, the engine is noisier than it is at my usual shift points - I usually upshift at 3000 rpm - but there's nothing odd or unexpected about the noise.

mul

Just bought the 06 EX model and seems like my instant complaint is the left foot rest. I just cannot find a comfortable position for my left foot, which makes me very uncomfortable having to move my left foot here and there on the floor. Anybody else has similar problems? What do you guys do to overcome this problem?

theracoon

Some pull, some don't... my 2005 EX PTTR...

I can't understand why there is still
no real fix for this problem ???

(I'm not talking about tires, tsb or subframe "solutions")

Some pull, most don't.

The tire balancing, TSB for the suspension, and the subframe adjustment are the fixes. If they have all been done on your CR-V and it's still PTTR have you talked to Honda directly? (not your dealer).

ilike2drive

Thank you, jimbres (#3909). I may have not described my situation clearly. I am not up or down shifting at around 3800 RPMs. I simply am taking my foot off the gas when the engine becomes louder between the range of 3250-3750 RPMs. That is, above or below this range things are quieter. The noise will stop abruptly (e.g., when the service rep at Honda asked me to) with the clutch depressed, disengaging the engine.

travaux

We took it to the dealer on Friday. Verdict - one dead cell in the battery. I'd never heard of a dead battery being able to recharge itself. Whatever. We've got a new battery and everything seems fine.

fussycrvowner

Sorry to hear of your frustrations. I have an '02 which used to have that. The dealer stated that the alignment was fine and wouldn't do any more. I went on alldata.com through my local library and found a TSB to rotate the strut plates to change the spring angle. After taking the car to Conrad's to have the plates shifted, I still had the PTTR. I ended up going back to the dealer for another aligment and the problem was solved. Too bad some of the dealers do not seem to have knowledge of the TSBs. I wonder if the suspension in the later models was modified which may account for different adjustments needed? Hang in there - sometimes what's needed is to go to an independent shop for their opinion and then go back to the dealer to address warranty issues. All else fails, try contacting Honda directly (number in manual) and ask for an engineer to get involved. Other question to consider is if they feel it is a PTTR or road drift. A true PTTR will change lanes immediately with a strong pull on the steering wheel. A drift will usually take more than several seconds to change lanes by itself.

jimbres

Why don't you simply upshift (assuming, of course, that you're not already in 5th)? Just curious.

stevedebi

Well, it cannot be a characteristic of the design, my 2003 has never had PTTR. It takes a pretty hard acceleration to feel any torque steer.

madelinef

BINGO!!!!!

I had a mechanic check out the heat shield....it was hanging on by a bolt thread and rattling. Took the entire shield and clamp off.......beautiful....no rattles, sounds great. I put in better gas (CHEVRON with TECHRON) and the engine is purring.....

The belts and timing belt were ok....
Thanks so much for your help and IDEAS.

theracoon

I'm glad the rattle is gone.

Just remember that your CR-V only needs 86 octane fuel. Any higher octane is a waste of money. Higher octane will not give you better fuel mileage, nor will it give your CR-V more power.

JM2C

blueiedgod

Why don't you simply upshift (assuming, of course, that you're not already in 5th)? Just curious.

If he is in 5th at 3750 RPM he is going about 80 mph. I think the wind noise will be greater than the engine noise.

Referring to OP, I don't know what noise you have, but I hear nice growl as I open up the trottle. All the way to the RED line, shift... Unfortunatley if I red line in 3rd, I am already going way above legal speed limit in most states (80 mph).

Try revving the engine in neutral at stop and see if the noise persists. By the way, you will find the "clutch burner stop". The engine just cuts off at 4500 or 5000 RPM when you are stoppped.

As to VSC, as promised, I would test it out in the snow. I was doing doughnuts and the car does not seem to have YAW sensors. The inputs are read from the wheel sensors. If I turn the wheels fast to send it into a drift, the brake would start locking up individual wheels. That would only happen when the wheel were slipping, but not when the car was sliding sideways with the wheels turning.

With the VSC disabled, I was able to do perfect RWD doughnuts. As I remember, my 2001 CR-V was more FWD prone, than the 2005 with the redesigned AWD system.

chong67

My CRV is 2003 EX model w 76K miles.

When I make a hard turn/full turn left or right, it is making a very funny noise. Sort of like it stutter(sp?) and the engine is about to die n when I am out off the turn, its fine. Sound like something is grinding.

It is not CV join or CV booth. I have check. I have no idea what it is and it is sad with Honda name, something like this can go wrong already?

Anyway, I am going to the dealership this weekend for them to take a look. If you have this problem, please let me know.

varmint

There is something which can cause a sputter or stall during a turn with the wheel locked to one side. I just can't get my bang brain to recall what it is.

Just to eliminate the possibility that this is not engine related, read up at the link below and confirm it is not the problem you're experiencing.

varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #3, 22 Nov 2003 12:10 pm

theracoon

1. Find an empty parking lot
2. Open the drivers window and stick your head out the window
3. Drive slowly in a tight left hand turn

Is the sound from underneath or from the engine?

If it's from underneath then your rear differential fluid needs to be changed. Use only Honda Dual Pump Fluid.

chong67

The noise is not coming from the rear or at the back of the car.

The noise is coming from the front of the car.

I tried to open the door and drive in circle, but I just cant pin point it.

theracoon

The noise is not coming from the rear or at the back of the car.
The noise is coming from the front of the car.

Then follow Varmint's link and read the information there.

chong67

I want to replace the rear differential fluid myself.

I had replace the transmission fluid and it was easy.

1. For the rear one, where would it be at the rear of the CRV?

2. I notice in the repair book there are 2 bolts and you fill the fluid side-way? How would I insert the fluid?

theracoon

I want to replace the rear differential fluid myself.

You need two quarts of Dual Pump Fluid because it takes 1.1 quarts to fill the rear differential. The rear differential is located in the middle of the vehicle, between the rear wheels and is the size of a football.

The upper bolt is the fill hole, the lower bolt is the drain hole. Make sure to loosen the fill bolt first to make sure you can get it off before removing the drain bolt. Both have crush washers you should replace, and can get from your Honda dealer.

After draining the old fluid replace the drain bolt with a new crush washer. Then add fluid until the fluid is level with the bottom of the fill hole. If you put too much in let it drain, then wipe up the overflow. Some people use a funnel and hose, but you might have better luck with a small pump you can get at most auto parts stores. The pump fits into the bottle of fluid and has a hose that goes in to the fill hole. Because of the location of the fill hole on the side of the rear differential you can't just pour the fluid in.

Both the drain and fill bolts should be torqued to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m, 4.8 kg-m).

Good luck.

chuck914

Try turning while not moving, ie., stopped. I had a "clunking" type sound in my 2003 CRV. As mentioned earlier in a message a few weeks ago, it was the bearing plates and strut assembly--all were replaced under warranty. Basically, while turning the wheel back and forth (complete left to full right), reach over top of the front tire, place your hand on the coil spring and you may notice spring vibrate--thus cause of the binding noise.

Hope this helps.

chong67

Thank you, theracoon.

I'll take my 03 CRV to the dealship this Sat for find out about the funny noise when I do a hard turn. I'll let you all know what happen.

Funny last Sat I went there to make an appointment and the guy was shock to find there is no history of my car at 67K miles. I said I been doing things myself on my car. Now its time to pay the dues.

ilike2drive

I am in 5th gear, usually, when this is a problem, on the highway. I just note that the same loudness occurs in all gears within the specified RPM range. Thanks again.

mikefm58

'99 CRV with 113K miles, just started blowing the fuse for the power outlet when using a small air compressor to inflate my tires. It blew the rear one first, so I moved it to the front outlet, blew that one too. So I figured the compressor was bad, replaced the fuses and bought a new compressor. I used it for a few minutes in the rear outlet, then the fuse blew out again. So I switch to the front outlet, used it a few more minutes and everything was fine.

Where's my problem, bad compressors or a short somewhere in the CRV? Everything else works fine and each outlet has it's own dedicated 10 amp fuse.

user777

If you had a spare battery, or more spare 10A fuses, you could go to RadioShack, HomeDepot or Lowes and get a "multimeter", something capable of measuring voltage, current, and resistance typically.

Make sure you buy one with a current reading range exceeding 10A.

Set the multimeter on the 20 or 50A or what have you, and use the multimeter in-line with the ckt, i.e. hot (center pin of the outlet) out to multimeter lead, and from the other multimeter lead to the center pin of the compressor plug, then from the outter connection on the plug (i believe that's ground), to the outter connection on the socket.

Start the compressor. How much current is it drawing? You'll probably find, it draws an instantaneous current when first switched on, higher than what is needed after it is running steady state.

I presume the rating of the motor (on the box, instructions, and compressor motor) are less than 10A, but the instantaneous current (i think the term is "inrush" current) is actually much higher...

It's probable the fuses are "fast blow" type, which means, they can't handle an over-current for much time at all.

DO NOT place a higher amp rating fuse, or a slow-blow fuse in the circuit! The fuse is protecting your vehicle's wiring!
Hope it helps.

jenngraphics

I had my CRV checked out for a drag or skip while at about 5mph during breaking. They said the breaks were fine, but it could be a transmission downshift from a cold engine. Anyone else experiencing similar?

t924

I own a 04 CR-V and currently has 45000 miles. Recently the emission light came on while I was drving on the freeway, I was going about 70 and suddenly as the light came on the spped went down to 40 and wouldn't go up. I had to quickly pull aside to avoid any crashes from behind. When I took the car to the Honda dealer service the mechanic said it wasn't a big problem. He said something about the air bubble in the pedal or something. But it happened again after a week and I took it to a place where I knew an mechanic personally and he said it was a defect that was made by Honda. He said Honda is trying to hide the defect in order to avoid recall. He said it was the VTEC oil pressure switch that could be the problem and it would cost about 700 to 800 bucks. It looks like Honda dealer are trying to keep avoiding me till my warranty expires. Is there any CR-V owners that has the same problem as I do?

jeffylin

I bought my 2006 HONDA CR-V LX 4WD not over one month but LEFT rear axle became rusty. I always have car wash after snow. I don't know why it's so weak.
There has a little bit of rear axle's design than 2006 CR-V EX AUTO. 2006 CR-V EX looks more value.
From brochure, We just see the different between 2006 LX 4WD and 2006 EX AUTO are 4 Alloy wheels, Moonroof, Audio Control, Outside temp. indicator, Rear Privacy glass, Colored Mirror... .
Please have someone tell me your suggestion. Thanks!

mikefm58

Ummm, unless you bought an extended warranty, yours expired at 36000 miles. You need to post more detail on what the Honda dealer fixed.

blueiedgod

He said it was the VTEC oil pressure switch that could be the problem and it would cost about 700 to 800 bucks.

Yes, VTEC solenoids fail, usually from improper oil, or extended oil intervals, but sometimes they fail on their own.

The tell tale sign of VTEC solenoid failure is resistance to rev past 2500 RPM/5000 RPM on some models, and lack of power. This is known as the vehicle going into the "limp mode." Limp mode is the VTEC-E mode where the car is running on 12 valves to save fuel.

The dealer should have read the code and would have seen the VTEC solenoid failure. If, it is the solenoid, and you have the extended warranty, you should have no problem getting it fixed. If your extended warranty is HondaCare, you are good. If it is something else, you have to read the documentation to see what is covered.

He said something about the air bubble in the pedal or something.

Did he also recommend "halogen headlight fluid"? lol

Good luck.

crvnumber2

I have an '02 CRV. Check engine light came on at 61,000 miles. Thought it was the gas cap issue because that is always what it had been before. Light, however, did not go off after next refueling. Had 3 codes show up when checked by auto parts chain store. Took to dealer, and they said the oxygen sensor, relay sensor, and ECM had to be reprogrammed. Total of these repairs: $428. Is this high, low or average? Has anyone else had these problems, and how do I avoid in future? Also, A/C fan has always had louder-than-normal whirring noise. They suggested blower motor replacement until they saw that had already been done when car was under warranty. They then suggested changing A/C micron filter, I believe, which I did not have done. After reading this forum, I see that many are having trouble with A/C compressor on this year model. Does this sound like the beginning of that problem?

Thanks.

pnoziska

Bought a 2006 CR-V in October 2005 ... after about 250 miles, about 5 minutes after I reach freeway speed, the VSA and ABS lights come on for no apparent reason, and stay on until I shut off the vehicle. Upon restart, the lights go back off, but turns back on when I return to freeway speed. The owner's manual suggests this may happen, and advises a stop and restart, which is rather curious (known software bug or something?)..

Anyone else have this problem? What's my next move?

theracoon

What's my next move?

New vehicle with less than 500 miles? Take it back to the dealer and make them fix it.

JM2C

isellhondas

"next move" ???

This is why you have a warranty! Jsut take it in.

barbecuesauce9

If you see ABS light staying on, that means ABS is not working(brake is working).
Take it to the dealer!

courtney89

I have a 2003 CRV with 17,000 miles on it - it is my second CRV, first was an '98. Last night in deep snow it started making this really loud grinding, clunking noise. I stopped car thinking I had run over something, but could not see anything. Got back in car, noise gone. Drove it twice last night, no noise. This morning, as soon as I backed from driveway, it started with almost a feeling that it was driving over something. I live less than a 1/2 mile from dealer, so drove it in this morning and left it - any ideas what this could be.

I LOVE MY CAR!!! This is my 5th Honda, so I know it will be ok, but what a noise.

user777

does this CRV have mud flaps, and the other did not? in deep slush / snow, you can have caking of slush and snow between the wheel and mud flaps or even higher between the fender and the wheel which can freeze over night and sound like this in the morning when you drive off. up north i remember having to be vigilant about clearing this buildup after parking.

kyfdx

I agree.... it sounds like you have snow packed up under the wheel wells..

courtney89

I hope that's what it is, but it had been in the garage all night and I would have thought that the snow would have melted. I haven't heard from the dealer, but you have no idea how much I hope that's what it is!!