Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

heidi4

Could be the hinges on the back door.

kinko

I finally concluded that the michelin destiny/harmony is the best replacement tire for my 02 CRV. The handling the CRV has improved instantly. Tried the Yokohama Avid Touring for 2 weeks, and I found that they're so overrated in tirerack. The Yokohama tire created more road noise than the OEM Dueler on highway speed.

kakoo

Heidi - It's interesting that you mentioned the hinge, because the dealer actually replaced it the 3rd time I brought it in. However, that wasn't the noise I was hearing, because the clunk is still there. Ugh! Either way, I'll have to keep an eye out for rust.

stevedebi

"I've noticed a strange, burning odor coming from the right rear of my brand new 2006 CRV after driving -- it now has 350 miles on the odometer."

I had this on my 2003. It went away before 1000 miles.

kapusta

For many trips, I often unbolt and remove one or both back seats (takes about 5 minutes tops). What you have left is very flat and if you stick something flat behind the front seats (to extend the bed), you can stretch out quite comfortably. I have spent weeks on the road camping this way.

I'm gonna try your Lazy-Boy idea sometime.

kapusta

Well, it's been a few months now and no luck. My service rep NEVER calls me back. The last time he did was back in August,and I have left about 20 messages for him since then. No one else will handle this. I am told that he is the rep, and he is the one I need to talk to. In the end I got about 1/3 of this covered. Great customer service! Not.

It turned out the reason it stopped working a day after it was fixed is that some wire was not plugged in all the way. It cost me about $90 to get it looked at and fixed at the dealer in Reno, CA. Fair enough, it wasn't their fault. However, Sussex Honda who did the work to begin with (and apparently did not plug everthing back in) has still not reimbursed me the money for this repair.

Crappy customer service at Honda USA, slimy service depts, and an AC unit that is built to last 50K miles (and opnly costs a grand or two to fix). I can't wait to buy another one of these cars! Not.

busbodger

It's about $300 here in TN at a trusted independent shop. I did mine (and replaced my belts too) for about $75 in my driveway.

Be sure to replace it on time or before. If it breaks on the CR-V engine you'll need a major engine repair because it is an interference engine - the pistons and the valves occupy the same space at different times - timing maintained by this belt. It is breaks it can dent the pistons (or break them), bend the connecting rods, and bend the valves...

It did mine at 80K b/c we have done quite a bit of towing with our '99 which is at 125K miles right now.

busbodger

Sensor is non-replaceable says who? Beware of dealers that tell you it can't be replaced. I work for a company that builds throttle bodies and I have worked on dozens and dozens of cars with fuel injection. With a bill that large get a second opinion. The thottle position sensor usually bolts onto the end of the thottle shaft or inside a cover on the end of the throttle body. I have not inspected the throttle body on the CR-V (any gen).

You could go to an independent shop and ask for a 2nd opinion and replace the sensor only. We have purchased whole used 30K engines from wrecks for $750 or so. Buy the whole engine and sell parts. Convoluted way but you'd be money ahead in the long run.

I love my Hondas and Volkswagens BUT the dealer systems for both leave ALOT to be desired. Both brands have dealers that have tried to rip me off with NO SUCCESS. I have caught dealers in lies, incorrect advice, incomplete information, bad repairs. Consequently I do not use dealers but choose to do my own repairs.

Your two greatest resorces are the Helms Inc repair manual (study and learn some auto mechanics even if you do not plan to do the repairs yourself) and forums like this one...

Good luck all!

Chris
Cookeville, TN

busbodger

Did this mechanic ever do brake work for you? He may be avoiding a warranty repair that costs him money.

Shaking during stops are generally caused by warped rotors. Does your brake pedal pulsate? It's the brakes. My CR-V develops a rumble sound when I get the brakes hot as coming to a stop from 75 mph or when easing off a mountain pulling our utility trailer.

Switch mechanics and try again. MAKE SURE they use either Honda genuine parts or GOOD quality brake rotors. The cheap Chinese replacement parts have failed me within 3 months and with slow small town driving and many customers when I sold auto parts to pay for college. We even found a brand new Chinese rotor that was thinner(under spec) than a 260K mile rotor from a Mitsubishi truck... Obviously the customer did not buy that rotor!

Take care all!

Chris
Cookeville, TN

busbodger

Walk away and find a good independent mechanic... If a dealer can't provide good customer service then I won't let them touch my $20K+ vehicle...

Chris
Cookeville, TN

busbodger

FWIW the last time I bought brake pads for my CR-V (actually the first set for this car) at 80K the dealer had Honda pads cheaper than the aftermarket pads from Auto Zone and Advance Auto, etc.

Some rotors will tolerate turning. Some will not - warping again within 10K miles again. In that case just replace them with Honda or good quality domestically produced rotors (i.e. not Chinese copies).

After a turn or two the rotors will be machined to their minimum thickness and you'll be required to replace the rotors. Give the "turning" - a chance b/c they can be a real moneysaver and is a normal repair.

Suggestion: after a hard hot stop (interstate offramp or emergency stop on the highway) slip the tranny into neutral (or use the clutch pedal like me!) and take your foot off of the brake pedal so you don't leave the hot brake pads tight agains tthe rotors. This habit has worked for me to keep the rotors from warping on any car. Of course you may need to adjust your style for the occasion - for example you want the brake lights to stay on until the car behind you gets stopped...

Chris
Cookeville, TN

busbodger

Need drapes...

Hate sleeping in a glass box with no privacy...

That said we've used this function a few times. Can sleep in the back too if the seats are laid flat (hauling cargo style) if you are less than 5'7" tall (I am not...).

I like the tents that we've seen that extend the cargo area a bit in length. See Pontiac Aztec, VW Westfalia, etc.

Anyone had on of those rooftop tents?

Chris
Cookeville, TN

varmint

I've been waiting to see if you'd go for 7 in a row.

Thanks for all the input.

krn3

I bought a 2005 CRV LX in June; During the break-in period I got 21mpg city driving, 29mpg hwy (fully loaded with luggage, 4 people, driving from Mass into the WhtMtns of NH going speed limit only and using the A/C), 25 mpg backroads in mtns of NH. THere must be something wrong with your CRV. Be sure to check the mpg correctly. First Step: Note the milage on your car before filling up. at the next fill up note the milage again and the gallons of gas put in. subtract the two milages that were noted, divide the difference into to gallons of gas purchased. That should give you the correct mgp.

stevedebi

"I like the tents that we've seen that extend the cargo area a bit in length. See Pontiac Aztec, VW Westfalia, etc. "

Sounds like you should have gotten the Element, which has such a kit available...

jacobtjr

I own a 2005 CR-V EX SE. The car makes a click noise when I reach about 10mph. This only occurs on my first drive after starting the car. I took it to the dealer and they said this is common. The noise happens at 7mph because the car is performing an ABS check. If I don't hear the noise, they said to be worried. Has anybody else experienced this noise?

barbecuesauce9

Every V does same. Your dealer is correct so no need to worry.

isellhondas

Hey, it's his first day here! A lot of catching up to do!

zaxcom

My front brakes have started to make a crunchy sound when I come to a stop from a moderate speed. Its not a squeal or screetch, like worn brakes. It is more like a groan grinding sound.

What could this be?

2002 CRV 40K miles

Zax

isellhondas

Original pads?

Don't be guessing on something like this! Get it checked before you ruin your rotors!

madelinef

OK, here goes a dumb girl's question. :confuse:
Never had ANY problems with my 2000 CRV, now at almost 45,ooo miles and I love it.

Until I noticed a rattle or bad idle noise recently. The rattle occurs at about 5-10 mile per hour, and then stops with more gas. No gas, no rattle. More gas no rattle. I THINK that it's a tuning/adjustment problem. Just had a HONDA service done at 42,000 miles. They said I only need to flush the cooling system at 50K (yes I know...I am METICULOUS about getting oil changes, and suggested maintenance etc).

I think it's a gas throttle problem. Or clogging on the air intake....Any suggestions? I am ready to take the wd40 and spray it into the air intake (Of course with the air filter taken off, and the engine running in park).

Is this just a BAD gas, or "it needs a tuning" rattle, or could it be more? :confuse: Any suggestions or experience with this?

Thanks

varmint

Does this only happen within a certain RPM range (regardless of throttle position), or is it truly linked to the throttle? I'm thinking between 2,000 - 2,500 rpms.

madelinef

Varmint....thanks for the quick reply...wow.

I never looked at it in terms of the rpms....(by the way, I have a Ph D in engineering, but my playing with cars and fixing them has been over 30 years ago in college!!!!).

I can check the rpms tonight. It's a rattling sound at very low speed, and there has been some vibration in park/idling or in drive, with a stop at a red light.

Is it possible that it's the injection system's getting clogged? or Dirt on the air intake/carperator? or something like that? Should I even TRY the wd40 spray in the air intake trick....or is that going to make things worse?

I don't want to drive on Thanksgiving 250 miles and have a REALLY bad thing happen...

I may just be "nervous" since I worry about any new/strange noises....it's the mechanical/nuclear engineering training....worst case scenario thinking. :surprise:

madelinef

Varmint:

Just a question....is this just a "get a tuneup" issue, or am I going to see the engine fall out (only kidding) ...as in the timing belt,

I had the spark plugs replaced at 44000 (or at least the Honda dealer said he did it....) at a new Honda dealership vs. the one I bought it from....

bigislandpalme

The original Bridgestone Dueler H/Ts on my '02 CR-V are worn out at 37,000 miles. Inner and outer edges are gone. Had alignment checked today; technician said it wasn't that bad and that the uneven wear was due to underinflation. I told him I religiously kept the inflation at 26 psi as recommended by Honda; he said it was too low. I had to admit the tire wear is proof. He recommended 32-34 psi, which would be more in line with similar makes and tire sizes.

Now, does anybody have replacement tire recommendations? I'm considering Goodrich Radial Long Trail, Michelin Symmetry, and Michelin HydroEdge. I like the superior ratings of the HydroEdge but it's more of luxury car tire than a small SUV tire. Opinions?

jeanne193

Those Duelers are garbage.....everyone has to replace them. Had to replace mine at 28,000 miles. Replaced with Turanza LS-T and have almost 16,000 miles on them. Been happy with them.

madelinef

Am I missing something.....I have the original tires on my CRV 2000 and have 45,000 miles on them. Still have lots of tread, evenly worn? I have them at 28 psi I think......did Honda CHANGE the original tire manufacturer after 2000, or what?

theracoon

Varmint's probably thinking the same thing I am.

Try running the engine with the driver's door open (in Park with the parking brake on, right? Lets be safe!). Increase the idle until you can hear the rattle. Is it coming from the engine compartment or underneath the car?

user777

bad engine mount maybe?

miffed

I just purchased a 2006 Honda CRV It's a great car so far. Sorry I'm pro Honda! I think I may know what might be the trouble with your CRV. I own a 2003 Element and this last summer I started to get a growl coming from the motor. I took it in and they discovered my air conditioner compressor was bad. It cost about $2,200.00 to fix I did have the extended warranty. The growl would only happen between 2000 and 2500 RPM. But it was something I never heard before. The mechanic had to hook up a hearing system and then went for a test drive before they could figure out what it was. This may not be your problem but maybe.

nolefan1

Don't mean to pry, but I'm thinking about adding a warranty to my 2005 CR-V. Did your warranty cover the entire $2200 A/C repair?

theracoon

bad engine mount maybe?

No, I'm thinking it's a loose heat shield on the catalytic converter. The 1st Gen CR-Vs seem to have a problem with the front mounting points of the top heat shield rusting out, which causes the heat shield to rattle at certain RPMs. A metal hose clamp around the catalytic converter over the front mounting points of the heat shield will stop the rattling.

About $3 for the clamp and a few minutes of work is much cheaper than the cost of new catalytic converter, and probably a better solution than just removing the heat shield (as I know some people have done).

isellhondas

But I wouldn't be spraying any WD 40 into the intake system although it probably wouldn't hurt anything.

It's probably nothing major but for us to try and guess at it's cause is impossible over the internet.

I would have a shop look at it.

fussycrvowner

What is your opinion of products like gumout in a spray can? Is it safe to spray in the throttle body as a PM to clean out the passages? Or would I risk triggering a trouble code and damaging a sensor of some sort? Best I can figure is to leave the engine off until it evaporates.

user777

ok, went back to read the original post. got confused with the mention of idle. yes, if its a rattle at a particular range of speeds, i would agree with you, look for a loose heat shield or other loose component getting excited by the rpms.

varmint

For many years, the CR-V came with one of two brands of tire. There was apparently no rhyme or reason to which set you got.

One was a set of Bridgestone Duelers. These are the lousy ones everybody complains about. They are "fair" in terms of road handling, "not-so-hot" in terms of noise, and "downright awful" in terms of longevity.

The others were BFGs (I forget the model). They were really no better for road handling and noise, but they lasted a good 60-80K miles. I swapped mine at 55K miles and they still had a decent tread on them.

isellhondas

I don't think any harm would come from doing this but I would probably do it with the engine off.

varmint

I'm thinking of a couple of possibilities.

1. Loose heat shield (1 point for Bob).

2. Loose tensioner. The first gen CR-V had a TSB at one point because the timing belt tensioner was set improperly at the factory. No reason why it wouldn't work it's way loose over time. This would cause a rattle which sounded like a loose heat shield, but only at certain RPMs.

3. This is the bad one... tight valves. I've never heard this myself, so it's hard for me to diagnose. I'm wondering if she is hearing a little valve tick at low rpms. At higher speeds, the sound of the road and other noises might mask it.

The more I'm seeing here, the less I think it is either 2 or 3.

isellhondas

A tight valve doesn't click. A loose one does.

I remember, the old air cooled VW's were critical on this. We were supposted to check the valve adjustments every 3000 miles. A tight valve will burn. It was a good thing on an old VW to hear a bit of ticking.

madelinef

Wow, everyone is giving me so much information that it makes me nervous!! Yikes.
Ok, where is the heat shield relative to the air filter, radiator etc on the 2000 CRV.....?
What's a TSB? Which tensioner andwhere?
Will I be able to open up the hood of the car, with the engine running a recognize what's rattling?

I know it sounds dumb, but I don't know all the names of stuff, but I know what the major components do (after all I do have a Mechanical engineering degree.....) but the newer cars are not as EASY to play with as a VW bug, and a Ford Galaxy I took apart in high school....just for kicks...

I am worried it's a fan blade, or something like the engine mounts.....driving 250 miles on Thursday........
:confuse:

theracoon

The others were BFGs (I forget the model).

BFG Touring T/A's.

theracoon

Ok, where is the heat shield relative to the air filter, radiator etc on the 2000 CRV.....?

It's the heat sheild on the catalytic converter, which is part of the exhaust system and is underneath the CR-V. The catalytic converter is the first exhaust component after the exhaust manifold. On the 1st Gen CR-V it's in the middle of the CR-V, aproximately below where the dash is inside.

When you climb underneath (with the engine off and cold and the parking brake on!) take a large screwdriver with you. Locate the exhaust and follow it forward to just behind the engine compartment. Grab the screwdriver by the blade and bang on the catalytic converter with the screwdriver handle. Hit it pretty hard, and hit both the bottom and top. If either (or both!) rattle you've found your problem.

What's a TSB? Which tensioner andwhere?

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin, something that the manufacturer publishes as a special notice about a service issue.

The Timing Belt Tensioner adjustment requires removing the engine head cover. Probably something better left to a mechanic. The timing belt needs to be changed at or before 7 years/105,000 miles.

theracoon

Yep, loose valves click, not tight ones. And it's a pretty constant sound that increases and decreases with RPM.

I owned a '67 VW camper for more than a few years and did all the maintenance on it myself, including rebuilding the engine. When you changed the oil you also checked the valves.

isellhondas

Lying on my back under my 1964 Beetle.

Funny, because they were never tight. Still, I did check them

madelinef

Thanks Theracoon.....I guess it wasn't a dumb question about where the heat shield is exactly.....I will check it out!
Don't worry, I won't play with the timing belt tensioner.....the last time I took an engine apart it took 3 days to put it back together.....1974, Ford Galaxy....the transmission took 4 days....I learned NOT to play with car parts after that fun....pre-school for going to engineering school, according to my dad..what was he thinking????

And I do know enough to have the parking break on, and the engine cooled down before I play with the exhaust/converter train.....

theracoon

And I do know enough to have the parking break on, and the engine cooled down before I play with the exhaust/converter train.....

Not everyone does, so it's better to include the safety issues, too.

stevedebi

"Those Duelers are garbage.....everyone has to replace them."

They are noisy, but I have lots of tread left at 38K miles on my 2003 EX. I keep them between 32 and 36 PSI.

kicksave

Hello, this afternoon the transmission in my 98 CR-V started shifting rough. More so in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears than anything else. It also shifts rough when in downshifts into 2nd and 1st gear. More of a "jerk into gear" than anything else. Does anyone have an idea what this might be? I had the transmission fluid changed less then 3 months ago. It currently has 120k miles. With Thanksgiving coming and a 100 mile drive in my future Thursday, is it safe for me to go?, or, am I risking destroying my tranny by driving?

mikefm58

I've got a '99 CRV and mine does what I call a "neutral drop". Slowing down, coming to a stop sign, if I punch it before coming to a complete stop, sometimes I'll get a hard downshift. It's as if the vehicle is searching for the right gear, but rev'ing the RPMs up prior to getting in gear.

It's been doing this for quite some time so I'm used to it and don't feel it's a major problem.

travaux

Drove to mall in my 2002 CR-V with ~50,000 miles. Came out of mall. Realized remote would not unlock back door. Driver's door did unlock. But then car wouldn't start. Nada. Zip. Nothing.

Called dealership down the road. Nice guy had to take a car for a test drive so he stopped by for me. Said it was most likely the battery. Sat in car. Called hubby. Suddenly CD player is making whirring, clicking sound even though keys not in car. It stops. Then I notice anti-theft is blinking and it wasn't before.

So I walked around the mall for another hour. Came out and car started. But gas gauge read empty (wasn't), anti-theft light still blinking, and clock is blinking at me. Won't let me reset clock or turn on radio. But I managed to drive home okay. Gas gauge slowly crept up.

I checked the fuses and don't see any problems. Anyone got any ideas? Do I have a ghost or what?

thanks!