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If you go to any forum, you will find problems.
ps- the replacement unit has started to knock like the old one did just before it blew up so I expect the replacement unit to fail any day now.
In my life I've owned Chevys, Fords, Dodges, Toyotas and Hondas. None have been perfect. But of all the Toyotas and Hondas I've owned, only the Odyssey had unexpected repairs.
I can understand the way you were feeling with the projected cost and all that. I too am in the southeast (Florida) and would die this time of year without A/C.
Good luck.
I've always enjoyed honda motorcycles and this is my second accord but I will look around before buying another honda. Not saying I won't buy another, just won't blindly kneel and worship at the alter of honda.
I'd like to thank all the consumers on this board not employed by honda for sharing your bad experiences with honda's. Your honesty has been very helpful to me in dealing with the problems I've come across with my accord. Power to the people.
I have a 02 CRV LX with stock tires of 205 70/15, can anyone tell me what other size of tires can be used on the stock steel wheels, I'm trying to over size the tires since they are too small, I have seen pictures of new generation CRV's with larger tires and they look great.Thanks.
try the accessories thread for tire size recommendations- you may have more success there.
I own a 2005 LX4WD.
My check engine light is on - I recently got gas - the fuel cap was not clicked 3 times. I fixed the fuel cap and now I'm waiting for the engine light to go off - I realize it takes 3 days or so to do this.
My questions is - how do I know it really is the fuel cap thing and not something else? My vehicle is performing normally otherwise. Is there anything I should be looking for? I'm afraid it it's not the fuel cap thing I might be doing some damage to the vehicle.
Any advice? Thanks.
I've never had any of my Hondas aligned and have never seen the need for it.
Now, if I see unusual tire wear or the cars start pulling to one side or something, of course I would have it looked at.
Your "free" alignment probably wasn't needed in the first place and someone who didn't know what he was doing messed it up!
There you go again......ostrich head in the sand.......get ready for it.....LOL
Just kidding, sorry, I couldn't resist.
Also, a bit off topic, but for all to know:
a) my steering "clunking" noise stopped or low speeds--new struts and bearing plates (and there was never a pttr)
b) mirror heater -- new element/mirror installed
c) brake pulsation -- machine rear rotors/replace front...I took their advice and installed new pads before they did the other work.
d) steering wheel finish coming off -- replace steering wheel.
The good news...even with 60,000 km on a 2003 CRV, all this was completed with NO charge to me. I can't complain about Honda service, but considering the AC compressor has been replaced, and the gearshift cable in addtion to all of the above, I am concerned with "what's next."
The question has been asked before. Answer: both.
My owner's manual suggests the same. Does anyone know for sure?
Thanks
I see the tabs. How do I remove? Do I push them from the outside in, inside out or what?
No issues with PTTR, brakes, suspension noise/looseness or steering drift.
The vibe is most noticeable at 40-45 mph (a pulsing in the wheel, felt through the seat). Then again at 60-70 mph it becomes more of a buzz that cycles in intensity at about a 1/4 hertz rate, interesting harmonic.
Took it to the dealer (who was fantastic, even gave me a free rental when all I needed was a local ride home). They of course completed step one, rebalancing of the tires. RF was out about and ounce and a half.
Next road trip, I noticed the amplitude of the vibes had lessened, but still there nonetheless.
So, took it in again, tech rode with, confirmed my thoughts. We also chatted about A/C compressors and such! Anyway, we both agreed there may be a harmonic issue between the hard-rubbered Dunlops and the CR-V suspension. Just for kicks we took out an identical (down to the color!) CR-V with 10 miles on it. It was WORSE! So we talked with the service manager, and we discussed the tire situation. They agreed with the idea of changing out the tires for one of the other brands (Bridgestone and Goodrich are the other two OEM-supplied tires). Since it's not a deaaler issue, and Honda doesn't warranty the tires per se, I thought we'd need to get the local rep involved, but after I left they called me back an hour later to tell me a new set of 5 Goodrich TA's were on order. They said those give the best ride out of the three. FANTASTIC!! Hope to see'em this week.
Of course my question is.....what's the deal with these Dunlops??? Anyone else have similar issues, or have heard of it???
THX....Rob
I didn't have the problem with my OEM Bstone Duelers (a very crappy tire, otherwise), so I switched to the BFG T/As.. Still, not a great tire, but I'd had two sets of them on a '98 CR-V... No problems with them... On the '98, or now on the '02..
regards,
kyfdx
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Now it is in again for the third time to replace the entire drive shaft - all this can be yours for just 30,000.00 dollars - hmmmm what to do?
Beachin
"A Solenoid" which sits on the top of the Tranny. 3 weeks later the same thing happened.
The mechanic seems to think it is a electrical problem, not a tranny problem. Does anyone
have the same problem and if so what could the solution be??
Thanks
Bernie
And my 2006 SE does not heat the seat-back.
2005 or earlier manual says different?
It's due for the 90K checkup within the next 2-3,000 miles (I had postponed the earlier one due to $$$ and I'm trying to do the same until after the holidays this time).
Is this something to be worried about? Thanks for your input!
Honda only provided the Honda CR-V Service Manual in printed form for the 1st Gen CR-Vs (1997-2001). Any electronic copy is illegal. You can order a service manual from your Honda dealer, or online at Helminc.com.
The directions for changing the headlight are in the Owners Manual, and fairly simple.
1. Open the hood off the engine compartment
2. pull the rubber boot of the back of the headlight
3. pull the wire harness off the back of the headlight
4. disengage the headlight bulb retaining clip (it swings out of the way, doesn't come completely off)
5. remove the bulb
6. reverse to install new bulb
Remember not to touch the glass of the new bulb with your fingers.
Good luck.
There's a fluid level sensor in the master cylinder that may be gummed up and giving you the false readings. Have you ever had the brake fluid changed? Honda recommends brake fluid replacement every 3 years/45,000 miles on my 1999 CR-V, which is mechanically identical to your 2001. Have your mechanic check the sensor and change the brake fluid.
Good luck.
I will definitely ask when I bring it in for the 90K, along with having them check the fluid level sensor. This morning (another cooler morning) the light came on again and when I arrived at my destination, I parked on a downhill incline. Sure enough, the light did not come on when I restarted.about 35 minutes later.
Not usually, unless you asked them to change it, or it's included in what your dealer defines as a "full brake service". They probably replaced the front pads and maybe the rear shoes, and possibly turned the front rotors and/or rear drums.
City driving really wears the brakes fast. I'm at 73,000 miles on my 1999 and have not done anything with the brakes yet. I'll probably have the front pads changed at the next service, along with a brake fluid change. The rear shoes had better than 50% left when they were checked at 60,000 miles. The front pads only had about 25%.
It was probably a waste of money, but, whatever.
Seriously, I think it is really crappy clearcoat.. My car is 3.5 years old, and the paint looks worse than any car I've had, since I kept an '82 Accord for 12 years..
I don't have a solution for you... Unless the paint is peeling off in sheets, it is really hard to get anything done, so I haven't pursued it..
I think Dupont makes a product called "Imperial Hand Glaze", which detailers use... It will make the scratches look like they are gone... at least until it wears off..
regards,
kyfdx
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I purchased a 2005 CRV about 2 months ago and am having the same problem that you have. I have taken my CRV to the dealership 4 times, had the tires cross-rotated, and the struts replaced, as well as an alignment. None of these things have fixed the problem. Please let me know if you come across anything that solves your problem. Thank you.
regards,
kyfdx
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The vehicle has 48 000 kms. I would expect front brakes to go first and they appear ok. I'm guessing the pads would not return to the fully open position and the sliders they run on seized up. Is this expected wear and tear? Under warranty? Almost all of my driving is highway.
Advice is welome and appreciated.
If I turn VSA off, V can be towed with two wheel on the ground?
i believe VSA would modulate the brakes of individual wheels based on yaw-rate and steering wheel position information, to straighten-out the vehicle in a loss of control scenario, but i think you have to have the vehicle powered up for ABS, traction control and VSA to kick in.
i'm guessing you might have to flat-bed a 4WD vehicle because the front and rear drive-trains are linked in some way, and you can't have the fronts or the rears spining while the others are stopped.
what does your owner's manual say on the topic of towing?
If you have a defective caliper -- sticking piston within the caliper unit -- than you should get complete warranty. Although, you may need to replace/pay for the brake pads.
Brakes wear depending on driving habits--I mainly drive highway, I just changed my brake pads because the dealer was about to machine all my rotors under warranty--I replaced the pads myself a couple of days before taking in my CRV--at 60,000 km -- I had about 30% left on the front, 20% left on the rear--bought the pads from the dealer as they were within $12.00 of after-market parts. Front rotors were replaced, rears were machined -- NC
Although highway driving should be easier on brakes, but the exception occurs when highway driver's need emergency braking, i.e., high speed to stop-and-go, multiple ramps/exits from high speed to low speed. Under those conditions, I've seen more wear than somebody who drives slowly in the city and "times" the traffic lights.
Hope this helps.