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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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    muld00nmuld00n Member Posts: 1
    Hello, This isn't a problem as much as a question.

    I'm looking at getting a 2006 CRV but am curious to know if the drivewtrain is AWD or 4WD. As per edmunds.com review section:

    "EX and SE models are all-wheel-drive only. Honda calls its all-wheel-drive system Real Time 4WD, but lacking a dual-range transfer case, it's AWD by definition"

    Does this mean that the front and rear tires can operate at different speeds( adventagous to get out of slippery conditions) as I thought was the definition of AWD vs 4 wd. The "lacking a dual range transfer case" is the part that's confusing.

    Thanks in advance!
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    crvnumber2crvnumber2 Member Posts: 2
    How critical is it to get transmission power-flushed by dealer service as opposed to taking it and having it drained and filled somewhere else? There is a great difference in pricing and need to know what is the best route to take.
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    jaimegljaimegl Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2004 CRV manual transmission purchased brand new. At just over 13000 miles Clutch went and since over 12000 miles Honda refused to replace and blamed driver operation. Has anyone else with manual transmission had clutch go so soon? Have driven manual for 35 years, never had this happen before Thx.
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    jaz_crvjaz_crv Member Posts: 3
    I'm also interested in finding out which brand of CD-Rs the LX CD player can play. I tried the HP brand I currently have, and the two discs I burned didn't work either. (I tried burning from iTunes at both max speed and 1x speed. I have a 2003 CR-V LX.)
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    is it possible you are not "finalizing" the disks?
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    varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Whatever you want to call it, this is how RT4WD works. When driving down the road on a sunny day over dry pavement, the CR-V will operate in FWD mode. All the power will go to the front wheels.

    If you are driving on more slippery surfaces, the rear wheels will get power as soon as there is slippage. It runs as a FWD car by default, but as soon as one wheel goes faster than another, the RT4WD units routes power to the rear wheels.
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    colblancolblan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 CR-V EX with about 69,000 miles. About three or four months ago, I started experiencing a drag or a hesitaion whenever I start out in the morning or when I leave from work in the afternoon. Whatever it is, it only happens the first 30 minutes after being parked for a long time. There were times when the check engine went off as it happened. I also have been experiencing a sort of a "lunge" at the same period of time the drag has been happening. Whenever I stop at traffic lights, I sort of experience this lunge or these lunges as I step on my brake pedal. On those three occasions my check engine light went off, I brought it to the dealer. The dealer found nothing major except for the loose gas cap code. Does anybody have any idea what is happening to my car? Or has anybody experienced the same thing and found a solution for it? I would appreciate any response. Thank you very much!
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    theracoontheracoon Member Posts: 666
    I've got 73,000+ miles on my 1999 CR-V -- still on the original clutch.

    :)
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    gnuenglandergnuenglander Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2005 Honda CRV SE. Using my cell phone charger in the power accessory socket on the front dash causes the fuse (15 amp) to blow soon thereafter. I also tried the charger in the rear power accessory socket, and that fuse (10 amp) blew immediately. I can use the cell phone charger in the "cigarette lighter" socket in our other car (Mercury Sable; 20 amp fuse) with no problems. I also put a multimeter on the "spade" end of the cell phone charger when I plugged it into the Sable and got readings of 5.1 volts and .75 amps, well below what the CRV circuit should handle. Has anyone else with a CRV run into a problem with blown fuses when using the power accessory socket on the front dash?
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    courtney89courtney89 Member Posts: 12
    I wrote last week about a loud clunking noise in my 2003 CRV - service rep called Saturday. All 4 bolts of my drive shaft were gone, which left drive shaft to fling itself around under hood. One harness and some wiring was damaged which they are going to fix. Big question - how did this happen? Only one to service this car is the Honda Dealer - which was their first question - who has worked on this car? Don't have any idea how this happened, they can't even tell me if it's covered under warranty as they have never seen this before. Anyone out their seen anything like this?
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    How critical is it to get transmission power-flushed by dealer service as opposed to taking it and having it drained and filled somewhere else? There is a great difference in pricing and need to know what is the best route to take.

    Honda does not specify POWER-FLUSH procedure, but rather a fill-drive-drain-fill-drive-drain-fill-drive-drain-fill procedure to completly replace the tranny fluid. If you are going to get it done elsewhere but Honda dealer, do it in your own driveway. Just make sure you buy enough fluid from the local or online dealer. You CAN NOT use anyting else but Honda branded ATF Z-1 (ZF-1??) fluid!
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    jaz_crvjaz_crv Member Posts: 3
    It seems that iTunes wasn't finalizing the discs properly. I tried a different program (Acoustica MP3 CD Burner), and the two discs I've burned so far have worked flawlessly.
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    christigpachristigpa Member Posts: 1
    Hello - Just found the board and I'm psyched to get some feedback. Purchased automatic 2003 AWD LX w/36k in September and only average 233 miles per tank of 87 octane. Not happy as one of the primary reasons for buying a new car (had 95 Explorer w/ 14 MPG) was better gas mileage. :mad:

    Car is "new to me" and in excellent shape. Yes, I use the A/C (live in Phl) when it's hot and open the windows on a nice day. Drive suburban backroads 60% w/ average speed of 30 mph. Remainder of driving time is highway w/ speeds 65/70 mph.

    What gives re: lousy gas mileage?

    Thank you for your suggestions!
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    tamarastertamaraster Member Posts: 107
    I play CDs burned by iTunes in my CR-V all the time with no problem.
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    kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,422
    The low fuel light comes on very, very early on the second generation CR-Vs... Have you calculated your actual gas mileage? I routinely drive 50 miles or more after my light comes on...

    regards,
    kyfdx
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    theracoontheracoon Member Posts: 666
    Purchased automatic 2003 AWD LX w/36k in September and only average 233 miles per tank of 87 octane.

    That doesn't give us enough information to determine your fuel mileage.

    Did you fill the tank before driving the 233 miles? After driving the 233 miles did you fill the tank again? And how many gallons did it take to fill up the tank the second time? (NOT how many total gallons the tank holds).

    miles driven / gallons used = MPG

    (NOT miles drive / size of fuel tank)

    Without more information you don't know what your MPG is.

    JM2C
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    lithgowlithgow Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying a new or used CRV, but I have had some really bad (EXPENSIVE) auto tranny problems in the past with other makes of cars. My experience is that automatic transmissions can sometimes cost more than a rebuilt engine, and they seem to be designed to go out at about 140,000 miles or so! The local dealer only has automatics in stock, and even when I check on the internet the standard transmission models are few and far between, and are only offered in the fancy EX model.
    Can I keep a CRV for 7 or 8 years (30k miles a year) with the same auto transmission? Should I just stick to manual transmissions? How does the 5 speed automatic hold up? Thanks, CJ El Paso
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    rodsterin_flrodsterin_fl Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2005 CRV that was purchased Aug 20. I took it out on the highway about a week after buying it and noticed the PTTR. It was obvious and in either lane of the crown. I took it back to Honda and they followed the TSB to correct the problem. It worked. Later I noticed an issue with the rear tires and decided to have the car's alignment checked. The dealer found 3 of the four wheels out of alignment and corrected the error. I then bought new tires (Michelin X rated quiet)to replace the noisy Dueller tires and took it on the highway. The car shook horribly. I ended up taking the car back 3 times for tire balancing and finally all was well. The car will slowly drift to the right in the right lane and all is fine in the left lane- no drift. I am very particular and would also not hesitate to arbitrate if needed but I wanted to let you know that there are some CRV's obviously that are OK. The service bulletin was critical - realigning the strut assembly. I also noticed that the first time I went on the interstate with the tires out of balance the CRV shot quickly over to the right. IT is obviously a sensitive vehicle. My Millennia was the same way with tires/wheels, etc - little room for "out of specs". I haven't noticed any other problems. :)
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    rodsterin_flrodsterin_fl Member Posts: 7
    Yes my RX-8 did it too. It clicks/clunks as you begin to move. The CRV does it right away usually and it is much lighter a CLUNK than the RX was. It is normal.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hello - Just found the board and I'm psyched to get some feedback. Purchased automatic 2003 AWD LX w/36k in September and only average 233 miles per tank of 87 octane. Not happy as one of the primary reasons for buying a new car (had 95 Explorer w/ 14 MPG) was better gas mileage.

    Car is "new to me" and in excellent shape. Yes, I use the A/C (live in Phl) when it's hot and open the windows on a nice day. Drive suburban backroads 60% w/ average speed of 30 mph. Remainder of driving time is highway w/ speeds 65/70 mph.

    What gives re: lousy gas mileage?

    Thank you for your suggestions!

    The tank is only 14 gallons. When it is empty you can only fit 12 gallons. So if you fill up before it is empty, then you probabpy put only 10 gallons.

    233 miles/10 gallons = 23.3 mpg.

    Unless you calculate your mileage properly, as Racoon suggested, you have no case.

    Explorer has 20 some gallon tank, so you naturally get greater range with that.

    The greatest detriment to fuel efficiency is not how fast you go, but how fast you get to the going speed. If you insist on getting to 30 mph in 2 seconds, your fuel efficiency will suffer. Plus it is auto, and auto has lots more parasitic drag than auto.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I am looking at buying a new or used CRV, but I have had some really bad (EXPENSIVE) auto tranny problems in the past with other makes of cars. My experience is that automatic transmissions can sometimes cost more than a rebuilt engine, and they seem to be designed to go out at about 140,000 miles or so! The local dealer only has automatics in stock, and even when I check on the internet the standard transmission models are few and far between, and are only offered in the fancy EX model.
    Can I keep a CRV for 7 or 8 years (30k miles a year) with the same auto transmission? Should I just stick to manual transmissions? How does the 5 speed automatic hold up? Thanks, CJ El Paso

    Historically, liefe expectancy of automatic hondas is less than manuals. Almost all of of the long living Hondas out there are manuals.

    The "fancy" EX stick costs as much as auto LX. Since you are buying used, the price difference is minimal. IF you are going to buy a fairly recent CR-V, you might as well buy a new one for a couple thousand more. Unless you are buying a Pre-2001 model. Which still cost a few dollars. I think 2001 CR-V EX can still be $15,000, when the new, more powerfull, 2006, or left over 2005 EX manual, can be had for a little over $20K. $5000 buys you a new car with new car warranty and no questionable service/driving history.
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    jcoan911jcoan911 Member Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    I also have an '01 CRV with 81K, and I also am having valve trouble. I intend to pursue Honda for compensation, and I was wondering if you could share what your steps were in contacting them. I have scheduled an appointment at my local dealer, and the service manager stated that I would need to contact Honda customer relations in order to start the process- is there anything else you had to do?

    Thanks,

    John
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    michelle10michelle10 Member Posts: 6
    I just took my 2003 CRV, 23K miles, to the dealer because of the emissions light coming on. Dealer said it was the gas cap. NOT! Light kept coming on even without getting gas. Noticed when light is on, car lunges when coming to a stop. Dealer said today that it was the throttle body. Waiting for the part, hopefully Friday.
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    michelle10michelle10 Member Posts: 6
    I have 03 CRV, 23K miles. Check engine light comes on and goes off sporadically. When the light is on and I slow down to stop, the car sort of lunges. Dealer told me the first time it was the gas cap. Just took it in today and they told me it was the throttle body. Waiting for the part...should be in on Friday.
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    lizzyslizzys Member Posts: 7
    Hey all, I've posted here before and I'm back with another question.

    I have an 03 CRV (the highest end model I don't remember what the letters are) that has 29K and change on it.

    I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this...

    When my car hit 10,000 miles The check engine light came on, and I took it to the dealer who told me it was something in the gas system, that i've been topping off my car (which I never do) and it damaged something. They fixed it free of charge this one time only.

    Then last year, when I hit 20,000 on the dot, my Check engine light came on. Again they blamed it on the gas system, that something needed replacing. I started getting suspicious that maybe the check engine light went on at exactly 10,000 miles also.

    So I'm at 29,300 miles, and I'm pretty much guessing that I'm going to be getting my check engine light on again in another 700 miles. It's such a major pain, and I've taken extra precaution to not top off.

    Has anyone else seen this? Any stop for it (my inspection is due at the end of next month! UGH! and last year I had to wait an extra month to get my car inspected because of this garbage.)
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    stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    Are you sure it is your check engine light? The maintenance light comes on at 10000 by default, it starts flashing at 8000 or 8500 miles since the last reset, as I recall.
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    donna14donna14 Member Posts: 1
    We also have loud clunking from under our 2003 CR-V. It rattles and clunks when going over bumpy roads. The noise seems to come from the back as well as the front right wheel area. It clunks underneath and sounds like everything's going to clatter apart. No noise when on smooth road. Only have a little over 16,000 mi and husband & I are only drivers. I'm rather concerned--I don't know where this clunking is coming from or why it's happening either. I'd appreciate any input as well.
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    mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " I also have an '01 CRV with 81K, and I also am having valve trouble. I intend to pursue Honda for compensation "

    Ummm, without an extended warranty, you are aware that your CRV is out of warranty, right? And you sound like you EXPECT Honda to compensate you?

    They have no obligation to do so. But you may have luck IF you've had all service done by a dealer AND you've owned several Hondas before AND you approach this in a professional respectful manner.

    Most folks that had A/C compressor problems and used that approach were reimbursed by Honda, at least partially. Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
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    lizzyslizzys Member Posts: 7
    110% sure it was my check engine light. Actually the first time both were lit the Maintenance, and the Check engine.

    I have the flashing maintenance light right now, and I'm almost guaranteeing that the Check Engince light will go on in 700 miles...

    (I'm a tech geek girl, and know my computers, I'm not just a dumb blonde over here)
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The tank is only 14 gallons. When it is empty you can only fit 12 gallons. So if you fill up before it is empty, then you probabpy put only 10 gallons.

    The 2006 Honda CR-V fuel tank holds 15.3 gallons (all trim levels), *courtesy of honda.com website*. christgpa, take the advice of these kind people that tell you to reset the mileage when buying gas, then check the mileage with the number of gallons you put in the car on the next fill-up. Like Blueiedgod says, Divide the number of gallons into the number of miles from the last tank, and voila! Instant mileage numbers!

    PS, don't squeeze that extra amount into the tank after the pump "clicks" off. This makes for awkward numbers, because sometimes you may add more gas before the secondary click-off. By stopping on the first click, you are likely to have more accurate mileage numbers (unless using an old pump, in which clicks happen at times when the tank isn't necessarily full!)

    Good luck with your mileage. My family averaged 26mpg in mixed city/hwy driving with ours, so tread lightly on the highway, you could see thirty mpgs!
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    when the new, more powerfull, 2006 (CR-V)

    The 2006 models have no more power than the 2002 models. They have been re-rated and the hp figure has dropped 4 to 156, but the engine hasn't changed, only the horsepower testing regulations. Just clearing that up! :)

    thegrad
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    theracoontheracoon Member Posts: 666
    The 2006 Honda CR-V fuel tank holds 15.3 gallons (all trim levels)

    In the US, all years and trim levels of the CR-V have been equipped with a 15.3 gallon fuel tank.

    JM2C
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    crvmancrvman Member Posts: 14
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    crvmancrvman Member Posts: 14
    Good afternoon,
    I purchased my brand new shiny CRV on Saturday, and although the car runs fine, not more than 10 minutes passed before the dashboard tailgate indicator light started flashing. I also noticed the ceiling light in the back flashing as well. I returned to the dealer today and they told me they adjusted the tailgate door. As I was driving home, 20 minutes later the light went on again. I noticed that when I got out of the car, went to the back and applied slight pressure to the door, the light went off again.This is indeed frustrating. On one hand I do not need to have the ceiling tailgate light on at all and so if I leave it off the problem is solved and yet on the other hand, why should I let Honda get away with this defect. They really should fix it.
    Any ideas? Thanx
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Yes, bring it in again and explain in a very calm manner that the fix you received before didn't really solve the problem and that it still exists, and demonstrate it to a service writer if possible.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Our CR-V had the same problem, with such a tight car, you need to push harder on the tailgate, or leave a door open to close the tailgate all the way. With the door open, you can close the tailgate without the air pressure pushing back on you as the door tries to latch. Same effect when a sunroof closes and your ears pop. Try this before pitching a fit at the dealer, it just might work, it did for us!
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    crvmancrvman Member Posts: 14
    Thank you kindly for your advice. I had a 2000 CRV and back then you needed to pop the latch each time before you opened the back door. They were both always easy to close. I will try your suggestion and get back to you.
    Happy holidays.
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    jcoan911jcoan911 Member Posts: 2
    Hmmm, My plan of action was based upon the previous post wherein the user reported that Honda did indeed cover the costs without an extended warranty. In fact, it was a the Honda dealerships service manager that suggested I call customer relations and pursue it there.
    Also, why should it matter if I've owned Hondas previously? I'm having trouble NOW. Do you honestly think Honda would treat the issue differently if they considered me a "loyal" customer (no, seriously, I want to know)?
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    mh7mh7 Member Posts: 1
    New to this forum hope someone can help.

    I have a 98 CRV all wheel drive with an automatic transmission. At 60k I had the required service done, this vehicle is babied and garaged. Today I noticed a tiny bit of slipping and thought it was odd so I checked the tranny fluid, which was clean and full. So I drove a 100 yards and the tranny started to rattle, shutter and basically fail.

    When I went to check the Tranny fluid again the dipstick was GONE! I went over the 100 yards I just drove from (when I last checked it) and could not find it anywhere. I had it towed to a tranny shop the mechanic told me the dipstick probably did not fall into the transmission.

    Does anyone know what problem I could have developed over a 24 hour period? And since I am the second owner will Honda do anything warranty wise with almost 64k miles? All your help is really appreciated, thanks, Michael :cry:
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    when the new, more powerfull, 2006 (CR-V)

    The 2006 models have no more power than the 2002 models. They have been re-rated and the hp figure has dropped 4 to 156, but the engine hasn't changed, only the horsepower testing regulations. Just clearing that up!

    thegrad

    I think I was comparing it to a 2001 model that had 146 hp and much less torque.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The tank is only 14 gallons. When it is empty you can only fit 12 gallons. So if you fill up before it is empty, then you probabpy put only 10 gallons.

    The 2006 Honda CR-V fuel tank holds 15.3 gallons (all trim levels),

    My bad, for some reason I thought it had a 14 gal tank, but the answer remains that OP should not measure the miles by the tank, but the miles by the gallon.

    Some people fill up avery time they hit the half tank mark and complain about very low range :-)
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    topangantopangan Member Posts: 1
    I actually read about this problem before I bought the vehicle, and now I can't locate the conversation in the site...I live on a hill. Every morning I back out of my parking space, and then put it in drive and head downhill. A second or two later I hear a muffled "clunk" from the front end - sounds like the transmission, but I'm not sure. It's also a little tough to get from Drive into Reverse sometimes. Any thoughts?
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    stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "110% sure it was my check engine light. Actually the first time both were lit the Maintenance, and the Check engine.

    I have the flashing maintenance light right now, and I'm almost guaranteeing that the Check Engince light will go on in 700 miles..."

    Hmmm, pretty strange. It is almost as if the computer code is mixed up, tying the maintenance and check engine lights. Maybe you could ask the dealer to re-program the ROM in the CPU.
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    mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " Do you honestly think Honda would treat the issue differently if they considered me a "loyal" customer (no, seriously, I want to know)? "

    Yes. That seems to be a factor with the folks that had most if not all of their A/C repairs covered.
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    awildmartinawildmartin Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know anything about the honda back up sensors for the 2006 crv? I got them installed on my vehicle and when you put the vehicle into reverse it sends off a very very loud beep which lasts for about a sec. the noise feels like it goes right through my bones especially if you are in the back seat. the dealership tells me there is no volume control for this so I had them disable the sensors. basically I am paying them to have disabled sensors in my car because I can't live with the noise when you put the car in reverse. I would be interested to know if anyone else has noticed this and also would be interested to know if anyone knows how to manipulate the volume for this, thanks.
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    nolefan1nolefan1 Member Posts: 17
    I've had my CR-V for 7 months and I've mainly driven it in town. A couple of weeks ago while on a long interstate trip I started noticing a new intermittent clicking sound that sounds like it's coming from the dashboard.
    Now, in town I've started noticing a click immediately after hitting 20MPH from a stopped position and then again immediately before stopping. This click is associated with a slight thump in the steering wheel. I read that it could be a normal shift solenoid switch. Does anyone have a car that does not do this (when the radio's off and the kids are quiet)?
    I'd hate to take the car in to the dealer for a normally functioning piece of equipment.
    Also, does anyone have an explanation for the clicking from the dashboard problem at highway speeds?
    Thanks
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    marksjmarksj Member Posts: 11
    Does the CR-V have a timing belt like the civic that needs to be replaced at around 100,000 miles?
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i think the beep confirms the unit is operational and is normal. it's possible it's operation is very much like the Odyssey backup sensor system for the 02-05 vans:

    http://www.handa-accessories.com/odyssey/backupsensor.pdf
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    zaxcomzaxcom Member Posts: 5
    If I change out only the pads on my front brakes do I need to bleed the brakes? Seems like at no time is air brought into the system, but I am not sure.

    Zax
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Does the CR-V have a timing belt like the civic that needs to be replaced at around 100,000 miles?

    1997-2001 Use B20 engine, which has timing belt.
    2002-2006 use K-24, which has timing chain.

    Which one did you have in mind?
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