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I'm looking at getting a 2006 CRV but am curious to know if the drivewtrain is AWD or 4WD. As per edmunds.com review section:
"EX and SE models are all-wheel-drive only. Honda calls its all-wheel-drive system Real Time 4WD, but lacking a dual-range transfer case, it's AWD by definition"
Does this mean that the front and rear tires can operate at different speeds( adventagous to get out of slippery conditions) as I thought was the definition of AWD vs 4 wd. The "lacking a dual range transfer case" is the part that's confusing.
Thanks in advance!
If you are driving on more slippery surfaces, the rear wheels will get power as soon as there is slippage. It runs as a FWD car by default, but as soon as one wheel goes faster than another, the RT4WD units routes power to the rear wheels.
Honda does not specify POWER-FLUSH procedure, but rather a fill-drive-drain-fill-drive-drain-fill-drive-drain-fill procedure to completly replace the tranny fluid. If you are going to get it done elsewhere but Honda dealer, do it in your own driveway. Just make sure you buy enough fluid from the local or online dealer. You CAN NOT use anyting else but Honda branded ATF Z-1 (ZF-1??) fluid!
Car is "new to me" and in excellent shape. Yes, I use the A/C (live in Phl) when it's hot and open the windows on a nice day. Drive suburban backroads 60% w/ average speed of 30 mph. Remainder of driving time is highway w/ speeds 65/70 mph.
What gives re: lousy gas mileage?
Thank you for your suggestions!
regards,
kyfdx
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That doesn't give us enough information to determine your fuel mileage.
Did you fill the tank before driving the 233 miles? After driving the 233 miles did you fill the tank again? And how many gallons did it take to fill up the tank the second time? (NOT how many total gallons the tank holds).
miles driven / gallons used = MPG
(NOT miles drive / size of fuel tank)
Without more information you don't know what your MPG is.
JM2C
Can I keep a CRV for 7 or 8 years (30k miles a year) with the same auto transmission? Should I just stick to manual transmissions? How does the 5 speed automatic hold up? Thanks, CJ El Paso
Car is "new to me" and in excellent shape. Yes, I use the A/C (live in Phl) when it's hot and open the windows on a nice day. Drive suburban backroads 60% w/ average speed of 30 mph. Remainder of driving time is highway w/ speeds 65/70 mph.
What gives re: lousy gas mileage?
Thank you for your suggestions!
The tank is only 14 gallons. When it is empty you can only fit 12 gallons. So if you fill up before it is empty, then you probabpy put only 10 gallons.
233 miles/10 gallons = 23.3 mpg.
Unless you calculate your mileage properly, as Racoon suggested, you have no case.
Explorer has 20 some gallon tank, so you naturally get greater range with that.
The greatest detriment to fuel efficiency is not how fast you go, but how fast you get to the going speed. If you insist on getting to 30 mph in 2 seconds, your fuel efficiency will suffer. Plus it is auto, and auto has lots more parasitic drag than auto.
Can I keep a CRV for 7 or 8 years (30k miles a year) with the same auto transmission? Should I just stick to manual transmissions? How does the 5 speed automatic hold up? Thanks, CJ El Paso
Historically, liefe expectancy of automatic hondas is less than manuals. Almost all of of the long living Hondas out there are manuals.
The "fancy" EX stick costs as much as auto LX. Since you are buying used, the price difference is minimal. IF you are going to buy a fairly recent CR-V, you might as well buy a new one for a couple thousand more. Unless you are buying a Pre-2001 model. Which still cost a few dollars. I think 2001 CR-V EX can still be $15,000, when the new, more powerfull, 2006, or left over 2005 EX manual, can be had for a little over $20K. $5000 buys you a new car with new car warranty and no questionable service/driving history.
I also have an '01 CRV with 81K, and I also am having valve trouble. I intend to pursue Honda for compensation, and I was wondering if you could share what your steps were in contacting them. I have scheduled an appointment at my local dealer, and the service manager stated that I would need to contact Honda customer relations in order to start the process- is there anything else you had to do?
Thanks,
John
I have an 03 CRV (the highest end model I don't remember what the letters are) that has 29K and change on it.
I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this...
When my car hit 10,000 miles The check engine light came on, and I took it to the dealer who told me it was something in the gas system, that i've been topping off my car (which I never do) and it damaged something. They fixed it free of charge this one time only.
Then last year, when I hit 20,000 on the dot, my Check engine light came on. Again they blamed it on the gas system, that something needed replacing. I started getting suspicious that maybe the check engine light went on at exactly 10,000 miles also.
So I'm at 29,300 miles, and I'm pretty much guessing that I'm going to be getting my check engine light on again in another 700 miles. It's such a major pain, and I've taken extra precaution to not top off.
Has anyone else seen this? Any stop for it (my inspection is due at the end of next month! UGH! and last year I had to wait an extra month to get my car inspected because of this garbage.)
Ummm, without an extended warranty, you are aware that your CRV is out of warranty, right? And you sound like you EXPECT Honda to compensate you?
They have no obligation to do so. But you may have luck IF you've had all service done by a dealer AND you've owned several Hondas before AND you approach this in a professional respectful manner.
Most folks that had A/C compressor problems and used that approach were reimbursed by Honda, at least partially. Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
I have the flashing maintenance light right now, and I'm almost guaranteeing that the Check Engince light will go on in 700 miles...
(I'm a tech geek girl, and know my computers, I'm not just a dumb blonde over here)
The 2006 Honda CR-V fuel tank holds 15.3 gallons (all trim levels), *courtesy of honda.com website*. christgpa, take the advice of these kind people that tell you to reset the mileage when buying gas, then check the mileage with the number of gallons you put in the car on the next fill-up. Like Blueiedgod says, Divide the number of gallons into the number of miles from the last tank, and voila! Instant mileage numbers!
PS, don't squeeze that extra amount into the tank after the pump "clicks" off. This makes for awkward numbers, because sometimes you may add more gas before the secondary click-off. By stopping on the first click, you are likely to have more accurate mileage numbers (unless using an old pump, in which clicks happen at times when the tank isn't necessarily full!)
Good luck with your mileage. My family averaged 26mpg in mixed city/hwy driving with ours, so tread lightly on the highway, you could see thirty mpgs!
The 2006 models have no more power than the 2002 models. They have been re-rated and the hp figure has dropped 4 to 156, but the engine hasn't changed, only the horsepower testing regulations. Just clearing that up!
thegrad
In the US, all years and trim levels of the CR-V have been equipped with a 15.3 gallon fuel tank.
JM2C
I purchased my brand new shiny CRV on Saturday, and although the car runs fine, not more than 10 minutes passed before the dashboard tailgate indicator light started flashing. I also noticed the ceiling light in the back flashing as well. I returned to the dealer today and they told me they adjusted the tailgate door. As I was driving home, 20 minutes later the light went on again. I noticed that when I got out of the car, went to the back and applied slight pressure to the door, the light went off again.This is indeed frustrating. On one hand I do not need to have the ceiling tailgate light on at all and so if I leave it off the problem is solved and yet on the other hand, why should I let Honda get away with this defect. They really should fix it.
Any ideas? Thanx
Happy holidays.
Also, why should it matter if I've owned Hondas previously? I'm having trouble NOW. Do you honestly think Honda would treat the issue differently if they considered me a "loyal" customer (no, seriously, I want to know)?
I have a 98 CRV all wheel drive with an automatic transmission. At 60k I had the required service done, this vehicle is babied and garaged. Today I noticed a tiny bit of slipping and thought it was odd so I checked the tranny fluid, which was clean and full. So I drove a 100 yards and the tranny started to rattle, shutter and basically fail.
When I went to check the Tranny fluid again the dipstick was GONE! I went over the 100 yards I just drove from (when I last checked it) and could not find it anywhere. I had it towed to a tranny shop the mechanic told me the dipstick probably did not fall into the transmission.
Does anyone know what problem I could have developed over a 24 hour period? And since I am the second owner will Honda do anything warranty wise with almost 64k miles? All your help is really appreciated, thanks, Michael
The 2006 models have no more power than the 2002 models. They have been re-rated and the hp figure has dropped 4 to 156, but the engine hasn't changed, only the horsepower testing regulations. Just clearing that up!
thegrad
I think I was comparing it to a 2001 model that had 146 hp and much less torque.
The 2006 Honda CR-V fuel tank holds 15.3 gallons (all trim levels),
My bad, for some reason I thought it had a 14 gal tank, but the answer remains that OP should not measure the miles by the tank, but the miles by the gallon.
Some people fill up avery time they hit the half tank mark and complain about very low range :-)
I have the flashing maintenance light right now, and I'm almost guaranteeing that the Check Engince light will go on in 700 miles..."
Hmmm, pretty strange. It is almost as if the computer code is mixed up, tying the maintenance and check engine lights. Maybe you could ask the dealer to re-program the ROM in the CPU.
Yes. That seems to be a factor with the folks that had most if not all of their A/C repairs covered.
Now, in town I've started noticing a click immediately after hitting 20MPH from a stopped position and then again immediately before stopping. This click is associated with a slight thump in the steering wheel. I read that it could be a normal shift solenoid switch. Does anyone have a car that does not do this (when the radio's off and the kids are quiet)?
I'd hate to take the car in to the dealer for a normally functioning piece of equipment.
Also, does anyone have an explanation for the clicking from the dashboard problem at highway speeds?
Thanks
http://www.handa-accessories.com/odyssey/backupsensor.pdf
Zax
1997-2001 Use B20 engine, which has timing belt.
2002-2006 use K-24, which has timing chain.
Which one did you have in mind?