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I have an Accord 95 that I recently took to the mechanic because it was overheating. He said that the problem was due the fact the fan only turn on sometimes. Now when I ignite the car the fan starts to roll and it never stops. I believe this is not right. Could you please correct me? Is the fan supposed to be on at all times?
Thanks for your help,
:sick:
(a relay is just a big heavy switch that is triggered by a smaller switch or a sensor).
locate one of the power-window relays also there. swap out the AC fan relay with the power-window relay (providing the relay number is the same. on my '94 it was).
if that fixes your problem, i suspect the relay is bad (possibly welded contacts. can happen). go to Autozone or the dealer and get a new one.
drive your vehicle with one set of wheels up on a curb. put it in park (if AT) or gear (if MT) and engage the parking brake.
now scoot underneath.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1988&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=ALTERNATOR+BR- - ACKET
and
page 62: here
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual/62se321.pdf
scoot all the way under until you find the oil pan and oil drain plug (bolt). Then look up. i bet it is at the back of the engine, 1/2 way up.
It could be a rather simple fix, if the linkage is missing a pin, etc.
Anyway, drive another car. If the dealership is really making you feel 'this is your fault', take your business elsewhere. They want your money. Any dealer can sell you a car.
Go to another dealer, drive another Altima. Modern manuals should shift smoothly.
Your absolutely correct. I will take my business else where. It's amazing how a couple of days give you perspective on things. They should have been apologizing up and down for my poor experience. They obviously don't need my money.
I found the car I want 40 minutes away which is a pain, but I don't care as long as I get the deal I want. I'm going to stick with the Altima but I'm going with the automatic. I just turned 40 on Friday. Do I really want to screw around with shifting? I will miss the fast part though!
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
one is a radio xmitter that senses tire pressure (i think at the stem) and sends information to a receiver on the vehicle body. one xmitter per wheel.
second is to use the ABS infrastructure and thus rotation monitoring at each wheel to detect rotational speed at each wheel (if a tire looses pressure, it's radius changes; it's rotational speed therefore becomes different compared to the other wheels while it's circumference traverses the same distance traveled).
Now.. if I could remember where, I would provide a link.. :surprise:
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I think with either, the problems with changing ambient and keeping pressures the same all around will lead to a lot of false positives.
Pre-runflat, the ABS method was very reliable... I can't see TPMS sensors being anything but a pain in the butt...
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i presume if you want to DIY, then you're really looking at how to remove the door paneling, which is probably held on with clips, but i'm not sure.
hope someone else can help more.
did you try asking an independant shop that services fords? have you looked in a local bookstore for a service manual?
My guess - you are going to get a light or two illuminated on the dash.
The good thing about transferring them over, they might just need new 'bolts' that hold them on. The bad thing about transferring them over, they might not fit inside the snow rims you are going to get. I hear this problem a lot with people that get 'sportier' wheels on cars with TPS's.
It was considered a wear item and not covered under warranty. The cost to me was about $1900. (I lease cars so I will not have expensive maintenance repairs.) When I went to pick up the car, I asked for the parts which they initially would not realease per the regional manager from Acura. I had opened a case with Acura Client Service but they came back and said that it would not be covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. The case was considered closed so I did not understand why they would not let me have the parts. I picked up the car but am meeting with a Service Tech next week to review the parts and I want them to tell me what happened and what would have been the cause. Given my conservative driving style, I find t hard to believe that it was my fault.
So any advise on what to look for and what to ask? Has anyone had this issue? Anyone else think this seems strange to replace a clutch at 18k.
Thanks
A mis-adjusted clutch would be my first guess, and some binding in the clutch pedal would be my second guess (not allowing the pedal to return up completely). I had a truck years ago with this problem, which caused the throwout bearing to go prematurely. If you have any pedal binding that you can show now, that should be enough to indicate to them that the binding was/is the original problem, the clutch wear was the result of that binding.
Would be impossible to show now a mis-adjusted clutch, if that was the problem.
any recommendations on a solid jack that is under $100?? i'd like to buy it as a late xmas present so ASAP responses would be great. models as well as where to buy it would help. he has an old VW golf so it's not a heavy car and i have a Nissan Altima - so i need a jack suited for both. possibly a 2 or 3 ton jack?? please help!!! (i know aluminum racing jacks are over $100 so i can't go that awesome)
Not likely. A decent jack will cost more than that. You may find another Craftsman jack for around $100, but it may have the same problems as the one he has now.
One style is actually the valve stem. Look at the valve stems. If they are metal with a nut at the base of the stem, then that should be the valve stem type and will usually transfer to most any brand of rims. But I'm sure you'll come across some brand that they won't fit into or the inside of the rim where the sensor rests may not be the right shape.
If you have a plain valve stem, then you likely have the kind that are inside the tire strapped to the rim down in the mounting well of the rim. It is held in place with a huge hose clamp that runs around the entire rim. With those, usually all you need to do is get a larger replacement clamp. For example, if you car has 16in rims from the factory and you want to throw some 20's, 22's, or whatever on it, then you need a larger clamp for the larger rim and you are in business.
I plan to buy 4 new tires for 96 Olds Cutlas Ciera. The normal size is 185-75-R14 but I'm having lots of difficulty locating this size. Costco can order new Michelins for me but only the 195 size. They say the tires will be wider.
I'd like to know.
Will the 195 tires look strange and visibly wide?
Will there be any transmission problems?
Any other problems associated with using the 195 tire?
many thanks in advance
Sarah
And no you won't notice it visually.
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
185/75-14 5.5in 12.5in 24.9in 78.3in 809 0.0%
195/75-14 5.8in 12.8in 25.5in 80.2in 790 2.4%
There will however, be a small speedometer error. I have been told that anything under 3% is acceptable. .
So when your speedometer says 60 mph, you are actually traveling 61.4 mph.
A battery and a fuel leak aren't related unless someone whacked the fuel rail with the 40 pound battery.
www.helminc.com has manuals, and for some makes they have an online subscription for 2 days which gets you access to the service manuals, and it's $10 bucks. I just looked real quick, but I don't think they offer that for the tracker...at least I didn't see it first pass looking.
you might check a large autoparts chain, they carry some (non-mfg) manuals...not as detailed, don't know if they'd have schematics....don't even know if they'd have a tracker.
might try searching the internet.
This varies significantly by mfg, year, light layout, and even trim level....so it would be hard to shoot this with generic electrical info. I'm betting you have a couple different relays that are utilized for your beams, to shift between DRL and High beams, low beams and DRL.
As you've found, you run the risk of just throwing unnecessary parts at it, unless you can get a set of schematics and see what all is involved and how they have it wired.
If you can get your hands on schematic, scan it and/or send me a fax to my carspace id, and I'll help you figure this out.
AlldataDIY.com sells online subscriptions to the technical information for your vehicle.
Helminc has disks and manuals.
Your local library may even have Alldata online at the library or may have manuals.
OK, I just bought this car three weeks ago and I am fixing it up because I'm a perfectionist and like to have my cars idle perfectly. I have a rough idle and want to check the plugs. When I got to where the spark plug wires, I could not get the wires off! I managed to get one off the coil, so I know I can do it. But, I can't get any off of the plugs. I am very cautious about doing this because the car is so new to me and I don't want to damage the wires without being committed to changing them.
I've seen what the wires look like and they have a really long boot into a really deep hole. Is there a trick to getting them off if they are stuck? Also, what size spark plug socket do I need to get? And, what if the wires break and get stuck in the hole?
I used the wire to tighten the first plug and it seems snug. I saw somewhere that mentioned using a rubber hose to tighten it, too. I might try that on another one. I just hope they're tight enough. The wires are pretty snug in there, so I doubt they will blow out.
I also saw another tool with a handle long enough so that the socket and handle are all one piece. I might get that and use that to tighten while using the regular socket wrench to take them out.
Any help would be appreciated.