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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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I don't know about wise, but it certainly won't do any harm. I also don't know if they're available aftermarket, but I'm sure a Google search will tell you.
You know you want to do it, so go ahead. Worst outcome will be a little lightening of the wallet!
You didn't say if you removed the axel hub nut or the three mounting bolts or not, so I just threw those at you just in case... I'm "stuck" on getting the axel hub nut off. I removed the cotter pin, but I can't get that bolt off to save my life it seems. Any suggestions there???
I found the problem with my front axel finally... The right front Hub Bearing is completely shot... and so I guess when I turn the steering wheel to the left, it created the noise I was hearing. The Hub Assembly and Hub Bearing, I learned, are one complete unit. Now that I'm trying to replace the (Hub Bearing Assembly), I'm stuck on removing the axel hub nut... Any suggestions???
--Dave
Dusty
Are the "cooling" fins on the rear end cover just to look cool (sorry, no pun intended... :shades: ) or do they truly dissipate sufficient heat that the operating temp of the rear is actually lowered so that it, too, suffers from less "heat exhaustion"???... :confuse: :confuse: :surprise:
If you want to take it further you'll have to add a cooler and circulation pump (just like they do in race cars!)...................or have I just made the decision harder? :P
Regards,
Dusty
My 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L) has what sounds like the exact same problem. Mine does everything above without the "no bus" message but with the lights staying on long after the key was out of the ignition. It seems like the truck doesn't realize the ignition is in the off position and that the key is out of the ignition switch. I checked all the wiring until I found burn marks on the ground prongs in the AC ignition switch. Replaced AC ignition switch. Still problems.
Found more burn marks on wire connectors that had wires running to the AC ignition switch.
If anyone else out there has this problem, I'd like to know what you did too.
Message reads "no bus" = PCM not communicating
Ran through on/off/on/off... no trouble codes?
Ran trip reset / key on "walking test"
Cluster Faults:
920 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM.
921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM.
999 = An error has been discovered.
Hooked up Hypertech Programmer (also reads codes) "Failed to retrieve VIN"
The only solution I have seen is to replace the PCM $$$ and even that is sometimes short-lived because the underlying problem still exists.
If anyone has any ideas or solutions any help would be greatly appreciated.
..."Same problem here, 2001 5.9 quad cab died yesterday while idling and hasn't started since. (came home on the hook)
Message reads "no bus" = PCM not communicating
Ran through on/off/on/off... no trouble codes?
Ran trip reset / key on "walking test"
Cluster Faults:
920 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM.
921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM.
999 = An error has been discovered.
Hooked up Hypertech Programmer (also reads codes) "Failed to retrieve VIN"
The only solution I have seen is to replace the PCM $$$ and even that is sometimes short-lived because the underlying problem still exists.
If anyone has any ideas or solutions any help would be greatly appreciated...."
thanks
gr
May not be your problem, but doesn't cost anything to check the wires at the plugs and at the distributor.
This is her truck. Serious overheating issue. Could not get more than a few miles before the temp started to rise, would eventually have to pull over because the temp gauge would red line. Could run a long time on the freeway before getting hot enough to stop, but could not run the AC or it would over heat in a few minutes.
I replaced the t-stat with a 195 degree temp. I have had several people tell me all different types of temps, went with what the auto parts store suggested. Replaced the gasket as well, applied RTV sealer. Also did flush and fill. Still got hot.
Replaced water pump, gasket, used RTV, still got hot.
Replaced radiator and radiator cap, and it ran perfect for three months. Could run AC on side roads, stop lights, etc. AC blows cold, no difference in driving when the AC is running.
Eventually it started leaking from the pump when turned off. Removed the pump and found a portion of the gasket was blown out. Also missing O ring from coolant return tube. (small metal tube from block to top of pump.) Sanded all surfaces CLEAN, put in O ring, replaced gasket, filled with coolant. I cranked it three times and let it idle, adding coolant as needed. Temp went to normal, no leaks when turned off. She drove it the next day and it had sucked up all the water from the overfill bottle but the temp gauge never rose above 200.
She says it's only happening when she runs the AC. My suspicion is the AC needs servicing. Is there something I could do to it myself? AC is sooo friggin' expensive here in TX, especially in JULY. When I worked in a shop, I never did AC work... I noticed that the guys who did, added refrigerant oil to the compressor... am I mistaken about that?
gr
Seriously, be sure to check the wire to be attached to the plug, and if it is attached, check for a broken plug insulator or a broken wire either where it attaches to the plug at the female socket, or the insulator where you grip to remove the wire from the plug...also, with 68K miles, it is possible that any one wire has had its insulation heated and cooked so that it has hardened and cracked, allowing any part of the wire to allow a spark to escape and shoot to the block...while wires should last longer, one bad wire can be a problem...if one wire is bad, buy a new set and you will be good for another 75K miles, easily worth your hard earned $$$...
kcram - Pickups Host
regards,
Dusty
I know this is long, sorry.
Any suggestions on what to try? PCV valve already checked.
Regards,
Dusty
The issue with sludge at the oil fill is because the oil fill tube is plastic and runs quite cool compared to the engine block. In the winter the moisture that forms in the oil is condensed in this area because the PCV valve is pulling internal engine vapors into the plastic fill tube. The moisture being much warmer than the plastic body of the oil fill tube causes oil contaminated moisture to collect in this area.
The first year I had mine I saw a light accumulation of sludge in this area, but the following two winters I have driven more daily miles and it hasn't collected any sludge there. Short trip driving, infrequent oil changes, or an engine not coming up to operating temperature for very long will cause moisture to form in the motor oil, which causes sludge.
When I talked to my friendly Dodge technician about this a while ago, he said that the only 4.7 they had apart for a noisy lifter reveal a very clean engine inside even though there was a fair amount of sludge in the oil fill tube.
Use a good oil, change frequently, and avoid short trip driving.
Best regards,
Dusty
He basically just turned the check engine light off and told me to let him know if it comes back on. Said the computer might have registered a problem with the torque converter once and turned on the light...but that the light should have turned back off once the truck went through five or six clean trips with no problems. We drove it long enough that he registered ten clean trips, so he just said it should have gone off already...so he turned it off and told me to let him know if it comes back on again.
gr
I have had this no bus problem the last two weeks. It has died on me at idle and at 70 mph. Then the No bus comes up. Usually i can res tart it but some times i have to wait a little while before re starting.. I tried the diag and came up with no code or errors. Comes up clean. Checked for lose wires, etc. Nothing seems bad. Has anybody come up with a real fix as of yet.. It is driving me nuts
and i dont feel like giving the dealer another 1,000. How much does a used PCM go for? I just dont want to spend the $$$ for something that is not going to fix it. Any help would be great.
Bob
harts1 :confuse:
Somewhere I read someone mention using what ever filter a person desires.
While this is mostly true, Chrysler released a service bulletin regarding oil filters and damage to the Cummins engines.
Engine - Some Oil Filters May Cause Damage
NUMBER: 09-004-01
THIS BULLETIN INVOLVES 1989-2001 MY 2500 AND 3500 RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH THE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE.
DISCUSSION:
Customer may complain of high oil consumption, grey oil smoke coming out of the exhaust or breather tube, or mechanical knocking. Neoprene compounds used internally in the manufacture of oil filters not recommended by DaimlerChrysler may separate from the filter, lodge in the piston cooling nozzle, and can fail the engine.
NOTE: THIS IS NOT AN ENGINE DEFECT.
NOTE: SECTION 2.7 OF THE TRUCK WARRANTY MANUAL STATES "DAIMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR FAILURES RESULTING FROM IMPROPER REPAIR OR THE USE OF PARTS WHICH ARE NOT GENUINE DAIMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION / MOPAR OR DIAMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION / MOPAR APPROVED PARTS." DAMAGES CAUSED BY THE USE OF OIL FILTERS NOT APPROVED BY DAIMLERCHRYSLER MAY NOT BE COVERED BY THE NEW VEHICLE WARRANTY. DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECOMMENDS THE FOLLOWING OIL FILTERS. DO NOT USE ANY OIL FILTER CONTAINING NEOPRENE. PLEASE SHARE THIS WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS.
RECOMMENDED OIL FILTERS FOR USE WITH CUMMINS 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE:
Mopar 05016547AC
Fleetguard Stratopore LF3894
Fleetguard Microglas LF3552
Fleetguard Cellulose LF3959
Cummins Cellulose 3937695
Motorcraft Cellulose FL896
Purolator Cellulose L45335
AC Delco Cellulose PF1070
Regards,
Dusty
dodgegirl: this is not to take anything away from your husband's talent, but draining the tranny and changing filter usually only changes about 3-4 quarts, I believe, of fluid...the remaining 10-12 quarts in the torque converter stays old and dirty...now that we have backflushing, they can change ALL the fluid by backflushing...you do not need a tranny-only shop, any repair shop has the equipment...Goodyear/Gemini shops are full service, and many tire shops or muffler shops have expanded into offering fluid changes...ask around, but do get it backflushed...then have a nice trip... :shades: :shades: