Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Would replacing the o-ring on the distributor help?
It seems your Altima stalled at idle (without my foot on the gas), then intake air leak is one of possible cause. The problem was due to a bad intake manifold gasket. If the problem was due to a bad distributor, then the car would stall at random and won't restart with no problem. Did check engine light come on? Ask that he identify any computer codes even if it didn't.
read http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Altima/2001/engine/index.shtml
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef06fa1/195!keywords=allin%3Amsgte- - - - - - - xt%20limit%3A.ef06fa1%20intake%201996#MSG195
read http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1997&make=Nissan&model=A- ltima
I agree, read http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Altima/1997/engine/runs_rough_until_warmed_u- p.shtml
Sounds very similar to your 1996 Altima, perhaps yours is 1997 model
I know the '01 has the same engine as the '96 (manufacture date of the car ws 1/96)but I don't know if the manifold was the same. The car has been very reliable unti now but I guess it is time to get rid of it.
a low battery i wait for one hour or so and it starts w/out problem.
i cleaned the connections and still the same, is ok for 2 or 3 weeks and it does it again
anyone have advice to fix this problem
thanks
If the lights dim very much, you have voltage drop, that can be caused by bad connections or bad battery. The next step is to check the voltage directly across the battery posts, using a volt meter or light bulb tester while having someone crank the engine. Low voltage measured from battery post to battery post (9 volts or less) means the battery is weak and should be tested. If the voltage is good at the battery posts (9.5V or higher while cranking the engine) you may have voltage drop in the connections or wiring. Check all connections at the battery, starter and everything in between.
If you don't have any voltage drop problem at the battery or wiring, it could be a problem in the starter. Connect a test light or volt meter at the starter, one lead to the starter motor terminal and the other lead to the starter case (be sure the starter is bolted tight and well grounded). Keep away from fans and moving parts and read the volts or watch the light as an assistant cranks the engine. The volts should stay at 9 volts or above. Good volts with poor cranking would indicate a problem with the Starter/Solenoid assembly.
Good Luck
E.D.
This stip is still attached, somewhat flexible, under 1/2" wide and the hanging part is about 3" long. One side is serrated, like, zigzagged, the other side straight. I can't tell what the rest of it is attached to. I'm at work in dress clothes and can't look too much further.
Any ideas what this might be? I took the car for it's first car wash this morning and had underbody spray with it.
http://www.fazmiclaw.com/nissanoil/
Did anyone have experience with the update? Is it worth it or are there any updates to the way GPS operates?
Thanx!
K
I don't think $6K is a realistic price if this is a 2.5S model---more like $4500 to $5K in the real world is all your car is worth. So really the car is totalled if you think about it.
The REAL question you should be asking I think is not about what your car is worth, but:
"What can I buy for the amount of $$$ I"m going to put into my car?"
If after $4K you feel you'll end up with a clean, good running car with NO OTHER PROBLEMS (like bad tires, other issues), then I'm thinking you can't buy much on the used car market for $4K.
But for $6,000 or so, there are some attractive used cars out there.
On the other hand, given the number of problems I have experienced with this car in the last year, I am not confident that the car will be entirely trouble free after $4k. With another used car, may be I can get it thoroughly inspected before buying, or buy a certified used car, or a car still under powertrain warranty and get some peace of mind. Even if the used car costs more than $4k, that car will probably have more residual value when I decide to sell it compared to my Altima, which will not sell that well given its repair history (and also the fact that it has an accident on record). Not sure what to do :confuse:
A new alternator is $500-600 installed, so I was hoping it might be a sensor or other less expensive fix. Any suggestions?
Keep in mind you are only measuring no-load battery voltage. You aren't testing the battery under load conditions. 8 flashlight batteries would give you the same readings, but couldn't start a car.
See messege #75 in the Nissan Altima Engine Failures Forum for more info on diagnosis and repair.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Thanks for any help.
What do you guys think? Is think normal wear and tear? I am mainly concerned about the rotors needing replacement so soon.
Brake wear depends a lot on how your drive and where you live.
Are there any Altima owners around Milwaukee with similar problem?? Those who have changed their rotors, at what mileage did you have to do it?
Eventually got above 15MPH and then car accelerated normally.
Dealer says this is the 2nd car they have with this problem and are waiting for the CVT Valve Body from Nissan to repair. Said Valve Body unavailable in US.
Can anyone shed some light on this situation?
Secondly, if I do buy one, would I have less problems by not getting the one with convenience plus package-moonroof and dual/digital AC control? Please need advise quickly. Thanks for your help!!
I agree with the other poster. Don't go totally by what you see on the forums as it's mostly those who've had issues that post here. It's definitely a good way to get some idea but doesn't always give the full, correct picture.
Is there any car in the world that doesnt have a problem? I heard so much about toyota corolla and I bought one for my wife and I was not really impressed. I am still with my altima Ultimate anyday anytime.
Make up your mind, get one and you will not regret it.
Chuma.
It has some cosmetic damage, supposedly it runs great it was his daily driver, he just purchased a newer car and it has around 175K miles on it.
I've looked at a few reviews, and most of the people that have these cars love them. Supposedly they run great but are a lil loud which is nothing i'm not used to ( my explorer had a whining rear end) and have a cup holder malfunction, which would just be the end of my world, j/k. They say that they are fairly cheap to maintain....
What im interested in is WHAT i have to maintain. Please don't be afraid to tell me because im getting it for disgustingly cheap price, so i'm preparing to have to do SOME repairs. The "time-fer's" i call them. time fer a new alternator, time fer a new rear end, ( im used to it, i had a ford. ) AT what mileage does it actually blow up? you know?
I wouldn't sink any real money into this car, as it is, statistically, at the end of its life---so anything could go at any time. This is not to disparage the car in any way--it's just at the end of a modern car's natural predicted lifespan.
Can a 80 year old man play tennis? Sure, some can. Would you be surprised if he collapsed on the court? Probably not. So the same applies here IMO. Keep your expectations realistic.