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Hyundai Tiburon

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  • My daughter was given this car for her 16th Birthday. We checked it out throughly prior to purchasing it. It was brand new with 14 miles on it when purchased. There have been the typical recalls and repairs. Just 6 months ago (give or take a few) they replaced all of her asles because the car was shakin out of control. We had complained about this for ALONG time and finally there was no denying there was a problem.
    Today while on her way to college, 5 blocks from the house, her car went out of control at 40mph (as per witnesses) hit a center median and propelled its self into the air rolling 4 to 5 time landing on the sidewalk on the other side of the street.
    I am demanding and investigation of the front end of the car. My daughter sustained moderate injuries.
    BUT in defense of the car, it also saved her life. The passenger compartment of this car sustained NO DAMAGE, the side airbags deployed and I believe saved her head from hitting the pavement.
    Will I buy another Tiburon NO we have had to many steering problems.
    IF THERE IS ANYONE ELSE WHO HAS HAD THIS HAPPEN TO THEM Please I beg of you contact me. My daughter is 18 years old and by the graces of god she could have been taken.... please let me know if you have had these problems. email me at : momofteengirls@aol.com... thanks
  • I currently have an 2001 Ford Focus, which I hate- but it was the best option to build credit with the Hyndai, Izusu, Chevy dealership. I've had the car for a 1 1/2 years, and feel that its time for the dealership to allow me to trade. I really like the look of the '06 Tib, which is going for about 17,000 there. Does anyone out there know how great the car is. Been reading up on the forum messages, so I know NOT to get an '03 or an '04, and I also know the best way to go with these cars is an automatic. Any additional info would be very helpful. My Ford has been a nightmare, I'd like to wake up soon. THANKS!
  • I have a 2003 V6 automatic. First battery died after 13 months. Dealer replaced battery and alternator at no charge. Second battery died after 13 months. Dealer charged almost $50.00 to replace it, as replacement battery had only a 12 month free replacement warranty. Told it was HYUNDAI policy, not to be appealed. In addition, was warned that my front brake pads needed to be replaced immediately to avoid possible failure and need to resurface rotors. Diagnosis apparently based on mileage (40K), as wheels were not removed from car for inspection. Since I had spent the better part of the day waiting for the battery to be changed, I told the service manager I'd wait on the brake job until my next regular service visit. Took the car to my neighborhood PEP BOYS the next day. They took the wheels off and told me they'd be happy to replace the brakes if I insisted, but there was no reason to do so. This is my third HYUNDAI, and I love it, but it may be my last.
  • Its like im reading a post that i woulda of put if i still had my 01 focus .I just bought a 06 tib v6limited and traded in my focus your right they are a nickle and dime nightmare so many little things go wrong witht hem it an anoying car to own. but the tib is realy nice Ive been reading about the 03's.what a drag. i hope i dont have same problem but ill keep u updated if it dose . question why do u say automatics are the best way to go. ive owned 5 speeds and found that there the best way to regululate gas milage and performance is with manual.but just get rid of that heap u call a focus yuck!
  • does anybody know if the blower motors of the 05 have any problems? i had to take mine out cause of a clicking noise and didn't fine anything wrong w/it. would you please let me know if you have same problem
  • jck1jck1 Posts: 3
    I had that happen in my 04 last Fall. Took it to the dealer who said a leaf/twig had gotten into the fan. They cleaned it out and I was good to go.
  • dear sharkboy, thank you for the response- I waited forever for someone to get back with me. Some of the old postings state that Tibs have been terrible with transmission problems/clutches going out without warning- I myself enjoy driving a stick shift (I'm a busy bee), but it sounds like the best way to curb problems with these cars.
  • Yea thats what I thought too but I took it out at word and nothing is in there, i thought bearings or brushes but i think im going to take it in and have them look at it. I have another question, I have a small rust spot on my trunk under the lock cylinder and i'm a parts production manager at a body shop and the painter said he would take care of it cause he owes me a faver but if he does it will it void the warranty if i don' go the dealership first?
  • Help...My son's 2005 tiburon's clutch is out with only 3000 miles. The dealership is telling me it is not covered by warrenty due to his driving. They are going by the wear on his tires. I feel like a clutch should not go out on a vehicle with only 3000 miles. I noticed a burning smell when I first bought it, but thought it was just the new burning off a belt. When I was following him to the dealership I could smell the same burning smell. Please someone, give me some advise. :mad:
  • I also have an 05 5speed and had the burning smell as well although it is just the clutch breaking in, and i have 7000 miles on it and it still feels like new. the only thing that i can think of is that the problem is (dumping the clutch) to get the tires to lite up which also puts the clutch under a huge amount to stress causing it to go out. sorry if this doesn't help but its the only advise i have
  • bilhaibilhai Posts: 1
    I have an 05 tib and the clutch has burnt out now twice. It is a definete problem. The first one went out at 10500 and now the second one is going at 24000. This is just not right. The first one I was told had a defective fly wheel. I would demend they fix it. I don't beleive the clutch is high performance enough for the car.They are just looking for excuses.
  • Ok, I bought a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon right when they came out, I immediately had problems with the vacuum system leaking, 3 trips to the dealer and 6 months later i got it fixed, under warranty so its not that bad. Next, my CD player went out started eating CD's. The car was one year old when that happened. The dealership himmed and hawwed but replaced it no charge. This brings us to today. I have 25,000 on a 2003, I stored it for a year, and the clutch is gone. I've been driving manuals for 10 years and have a commercial stick shift truck for work, I know how to drive. The dealership refused to replace it and tried to charge me $1,500, I left. Took the car over to a local shop my friend works at, $650 later i had a new clutch. Now the fun part begins. If you reread i stated its a 2003, manufacture stamp says 11/20/2002 and carfax says its an 03. After taking it to a "unaffiliated" shop, the mechanic flipped out cause everything under the hood is `01! Im writing this in hopes that someone else had this problem, Its to late to start doing anything about it tonight, but first thing tomorrow im taking it in to the dealer. I know the 01's had clutch problems so thats why I bought an `03, if you had this problem or know of it, please, Im gonna need a lot of help here.
    Thanks
  • I know the clutches for the tibby aren't that good mine just went out over night no warning it is completely shot so I am ordering a ACT (advanced clutch technology) stage 2 clutch it is cheaper then going to the dealer they are outrageous pricing and with them they are putting the same old clutch back in. If u are going to get a new one go with performance and u will have a way better time and if u have the money put in a light weight fly wheel better acceleration and throttle response thats what i'm doin and it only weighs 9.5 lbs where the stock one weighs about 30 somethinbig difference and since the clutch isn't under warranty whats it matter it doesn't hurt the rest of the cars warranty just have it done by a certified shop and you'll be good.
  • dcox3dcox3 Posts: 1
    Really interesting. After reading all of the posts about this stupid car, the "2003 tiburon", I realized that once my front brakes went out twice, the 6-spd tranny went out, then the front windshield started leaking into the infinity stereo, which then stopped working only to send a screeching sound every once in a while all on its own, next the sunroof broke, oh, and the clutch went out as well, along with the gas tank recall. I went to the dealer only to get turned away, because after all was said and done "it was under warranty after all RIGHT! Well I spent hours upon hours from work dealing with this piece of crap. So, I decided to sue Hyundai Motor Corporation and the dealer that sold me the car. After 3 months they decided that it wasn't worth the cost and provided me with the Tiburon of choice which, I took up a 2005 SE with the package 10 option. So far after 2500 miles it seems to be doing just fine. But we will see....... www.consumerlaw.com is the place to go about the California lemon laws.....

    Wishing myself and everyone else LUCK....... :lemon:
  • your situation will be interesting to see if Hyundai has improved the Tibby. I'm thinking they have and your driving experience will smooth out a lot now. Keep us all posted, OK?

    2011 Kia Soul Sport 5-speed

  • I've looked everywhere for a polyeurithane body kit for my 2001 tib, but nobody makes them, they're all fiberglass. I welcome any suggestions, but remember I don't want fiberglass (I already have that one and hate how it fits)
  • After checking out the hatchback coupes at the Miami auto show, I still liked the Tiburon better than anything else currently available, at any price. This forum helped me realize that my 2003 Tiburon was probably not a "keeper", so I rationalized my way into buying a 2006, with beige leather interior, six-disc CD player, climate control, 17" wheels, etc. Same brand, different dealer because of my previous experience with the service manager. No regrets so far, in fact I'm delighted with my purchase.
  • I have a 05 Tiburon 5spd and I don't have any problems with my car. Mind you I only have about 9000kms on it but I learned manual on this car and I've grinded it MANY times and stalled it countless number of times. I also read other Tiburon forums and no one seems to be having any clutch problems on the 05/06 Tiburons. Maybe it's a defect.

    The car is great but I do have one little gripe. I noticed that there is a rattle that's coming out of my trunk that's sort of annoying. It may be due to the cold weather (Ottawa, Canada) but still, a new car shouldn't be rattling. Previously, I owned a 2000 Sonata with over 150K on it and it didn't have a single rattle. Overall, the Tiburon is an amazing car, though I love the new Sonata too. By the way, the new Sonata and Azera won the AJAC award in their category (Family car under $35K and over $35K)

    Steve
  • I have a 1999 Tiburon FX. (knock on wood) so far no big problems. Anyway, I recently left my lights on and my battery died. I got a jump from someone and everything has been fine except my car alarm. It's the stock car alarm. Since I got a jump, my car alarm does not work. The little red alarm light that is on my dashboard is constantly on. And the really strange this is now when I start my car, my doors lock, and when I turn my car off, the doors unlock. The locks never did this before and everyone is baffled. I know it is not the maxi fuse, because my car doesn't have one. Any suggestions? I've called dealerships and they have no clue, but are willing to work on my car at $98 an hour. :confuse:
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    When you jumped the car you probably damaged the ECM (Electronic Control Module). If you didnt jump it correctly (polarity) that could cause damage. The dealer would probably swap out the ECM, verify its fixed and charge you for a new ECM. You could also find one used for a few hundred dollars. Here is the troubleshooting procedure from the Hyundai Webtech site. At the very bottom in the alarm section they refer to the ETACS module. Its this module that controls most of the functions:

    SERVICE MANUAL
    Applies to: Tiburon 1998-2000
    GROUP
    Body Electrical System General

    TROUBLESHOOTING

    ALARM
    Symptom
    Possible cause
    Remedy

    The system is not armed
    (The siren doesn't sound)
    Transmitter faulty
    Replace the transmitter


    Receiver faulty
    Replace the receiver


    Damaged or disconnected wiring of door switch input circuit
    Repair the harness


    ETACS module faulty
    Replace the ETACS module

    The siren sounds in error when a door or trunk lid is unlocked by using the key while the system is armed
    Damaged or disconnected wiring of a door key cylinder and trunk lid key cylinder switch input circuit
    Repair the harness or replace a door key cylinder and the trunk lid key cylinder switch


    ETACS module faulty
    Replace the ETACS module

    Engine does not start in disarm state
    Burglar alarm relay faulty
    Replace the burglar alarm relay


    Damage or disconnected wiring of burglar alarm relay activation circuit
    Repair the harness


    Malfunction of the ETACS module
    Replace the ETACS module

    There is no alarm when, as an alarm test, a door is opened without using the key
    (The arming and disarming are normal, and the alarm is activated when the trunk lid or hood is opened.)
    Damaged or disconnected wiring of door switch (all doors) input circuit
    Repair the harness or replace the door switch


    Malfunction of the door switch



    Malfunction of the ETACS module
    Replace the ETACS module

    There is no alarm when, as an alarm test, the trunk lid is opened without using the key.
    (The alarm is activated, however, by opening a door or the hood)
    Damaged or disconnected wiring of luggage compartment light switch input circuit
    Repair the harness or replace the luggage compartment light switch


    Malfunction of the luggage compartment light switch



    Malfunction of the ETACS module
    Replace the ETACS module

    There is no alarm when, as an alarm test the hood is opened from within the vehicle
    (The alarm is activated, however, by opening a door or the lid)
    Damaged or disconnected wiring of hood switch input circuit
    Repair the harness or replace the hood switch


    Malfunction of the hood switch



    Malfunction of the ETACS module
    Replace the ETACS module
  • I also have been driving a stick for many years and the clutch went out on my 2003 Tibby V6 after 33000 miles (just under 3 years). I searched the forum (thanks to everyone who put out their messages) and found the info about the TSB that dealt with the clutch. Armed with that, I went to the dealership. First they said it was not covered showing the warantee info. But, after discussing the matter, the dealership decided to replace the clutch UNDER THE TSB at no charge. I'd suggest to anyone still under 36K miles/3 years to try and use the TSB as leverage.
  • I am wondering if there is problems with the clutches in all the newer models, I have a 2004 Tiburon and it only has about 28,000 miles on it and the clutch is now having to be replaced. there is a year warranty on it and I missed it by 2 weeks. I also have a 2000 Tiburon and haven't had any problems with the clutch, but I do have a problem with the break light always staying on, looks like I am always riding the breaks when I am not. does any one know what could be causing this? we thought it was the thing on the foot peddle but we moved that and found out that wasn't it, Please Help if anyone knows what could be causing this.
    Trish
  • Marsansin
    I have a 2004 Tibby and it has 28,000 to 29,000 miles on it. also like you when we took the car to the dealership they said the warrantee ran out on it. I was wondering what is the TSB is and how can I get the dealers to replace my clutch under this TSB thing? please reply
  • siinq8siinq8 Posts: 2
    I have the same rattle from the trunk of my 2005 Coupe. It almost sounds as if I have a chicken in the trunk, and it's driving me mad!

    I assumed it was the spare wheel, tools or jack rattling but even after removing those as well as unscrewing and removing the plastic lining from either side of the spare wheel well the noise remained. I also tried lodging some cloth into the gap between the tailgate and the opening to see if it was that but to now avail.

    Before I rip the whole back end to pieces, has anyone had the same problem and managed to solve it yet?
  • siinq8siinq8 Posts: 2
    I have the same rattle from the trunk of my 2005 Coupe. It almost sounds as if I have a chicken in the trunk, and it's driving me mad!

    I assumed it was the spare wheel, tools or jack rattling but even after removing those as well as unscrewing and removing the plastic lining from either side of the spare wheel well the noise remained. I also tried lodging some cloth into the gap between the tailgate and the opening to see if it was that but to now avail.

    Before I rip the whole back end to pieces, has anyone had the same problem and managed to solve it yet?
  • I have had a similar problem with my 01 honda prelude back in 2003. I assume those kinds of problems come from the fact that "sporty coupe" has a significantly rigid body. The rigid body tends to transfer more forces caused by "road imperfections" to the "weak components" inside the cabin.

    I have some suggestions :

    First: if you suspect the rattles are comming from the trunk lid rubber seal, then drive your car with the trunk partially open. In order to check clearly, you have to drive at night in a quiet place. If the rattles disappear, you can adjust the height of "trunk lid rubber fastener(stopper)" in order to secure the closing of the lid.
    It looks like a rubber cylinder with 1/2" dia. Two of them are located in right and left ends of trunk. You may put a thin layer of silicon grease(a few bucks at autozone) around the rubber lid, not the rubber fastener.

    Second, if you think the rattle comes from somewhere else, I probably search the sunroof first. This was my case. First, I thought that the rattling sounds came from the rear end. Later I figured out that the sunroof and its operating machanism were the culprits. If you drive hard or drive in a rough road condition, your car will endure a tremendous amount of stress; which leads to deformation of the weakest part of chassis. If you see some uneven gap between the sunroof rubber seals and the roof opening, this is the indication that you need to see the sunroof.

    After opening the inner roof penel, you see the power sunroof mechanism. It weights more than 50lbs in my case. In a quiet environment, by twisting each part individually, you can point out the culprit. In my case, the dual steel tubes and its rubber seals(which attach to the drainage) were rubbing each other. The rubber seals were already deformed so that they caused sequeaking sounds whenever I twisted the dual steal tubes.

    Finally, the tire pressure is very important. If a tire pressure is set too high, the car body tends to twist more because your tires tend to absorb less road imperfections.
    The best way to measure tire pressure is as follows:
    1. buy a dial tire pressure gauge with pressure release button and a portable tire pump. I bought them for less than 20 bucks at walmart 2 or so years ago.

    2. measure tire pressue in the morning before driving.
    inflate or deflate according to the manufacture recommendation. The recommended tire pressure should be re calibrated according to the ambient temperature. If your manufacture recommended tire pressure is 32psi and the ambient temperature is 70 degree, you can put 32psi. If the ambient temp drops down to 60, put 31psi. If 50F, put 30psi. After driving a while, you will see the tire pressure increases by upto 4-5 psi. You can feel the point that the chassis can't deal with too high tire pressure. High tire pressure is good for your mpg but bad for your chassis rigidity.
  • I have had a similar problem with my 01 honda prelude back in 2003. I assume those kinds of problems come from the fact that "sporty coupe" has a significantly rigid body. The rigid body tends to transfer more forces caused by "road imperfections" to the "weak components" inside the cabin.

    I have some suggestions :

    First: if you suspect the rattles are coming from the trunk lid rubber seal, then drive your car with the trunk partially open. In order to check clearly, you have to drive at night in a quiet place. If the rattles disappear, you can adjust the height of "trunk lid rubber fastener(stopper)" in order to secure the closing of the lid.
    It looks like a rubber cylinder with 1/2" dia. Two of them are located in right and left ends of trunk. You may put a thin layer of silicon grease(a few bucks at autozone) around the rubber lid, not the rubber fastener.

    Second, if you think the rattle comes from somewhere else, I probably search the sunroof first. This was my case. First, I thought that the rattling sounds came from the rear end. Later I figured out that the sunroof and its operating mechanism were the culprits. If you drive hard or drive in a rough road condition, your car will endure a tremendous amount of stress; which leads to deformation of the weakest part of chassis. If you see small uneven gaps between the sunroof rubber seals and the roof opening, this is the indication that you need to see the sunroof.

    After opening the inner roof panel, you see the power sunroof mechanism. It weights more than 50lbs in my case. In a quiet environment, by twisting each part individually, you can point out the culprit. In my case, the dual steel tubes and its rubber seals(which attach to the drainage) were rubbing each other. The rubber seals were already deformed so that they caused squeaking sounds whenever I twisted the dual steal tubes. When you put back the roof panel, be sure to all the spacers and fasteners are located correctly and functioning well.

    Finally, the tire pressure is very important. If a tire pressure is set too high, the car body tends to twist more because your tires tend to absorb less road imperfections.
    The best way to measure tire pressure is as follows:

    1. buy a dial tire pressure gauge with pressure release button and a portable tire pump. I bought them for less than 20 bucks at walmart 2 or so years ago.

    2. measure tire pressure in the morning before driving.
    inflate or deflate according to the manufacture recommendation.
    I do this every two or three weeks. The recommended tire pressure should be re calibrated according to the ambient temperature. If your manufacture recommended tire pressure is 32psi and the ambient temperature is 70 degree, you can put 32psi. If the ambient temp drops down to 60, put 31psi. If 50F, put 30psi. After driving a while, you will see the tire pressure increases by up to 4-5 psi. You can feel the point that the chassis can't deal with too high tire pressure. High tire pressure is good for your mpg but bad for your chassis rigidity. We need some compromise between them.
  • Where should I start ? Date of purchase 9/18/03 New 1st problem door accuator 2nd problem left side window motor replaced 3rd problem battery replaced 4th problem right side window motor replaced 5th problem 17 alloy rims re painted color faded away 6 th problem new purge control valve installed 7th problem alloy rims repainted 8th problem window mirrors repainted because of fading. All of these problems are happening just under 26 months. Now on 2/14/06 and just 23,000 miles I need a new clutch they tell me it's because of abuse and there is no warranty on a cluch unless the flywheel is broken then it's a warranty item. At my local Hyundai Dealer it's going to cost me $2300.00 I like the looks but it's a money pit indeed.
  • dbtibbydbtibby Posts: 1
    I just put new headers on my 04 Tiburon and there's not a place for my pre-cat o2 sensor. Going crazy looking for a o2 sim.Any ideas?
  • Take it from me...they have not improved the Tiburon at all. I bought a 2006 Tiburon on Dec. 31 2005. Today is March 17th 2006 and I had to have the car towed to the dealership!!! My car has automatic transmission and it wasn't switching gears correctly. It was basically undrivable and it only has 2,400 miles on it! I am so mad!! I called road side assistance and a tow truck came within an hour but I wasn't offered a ride home or anything. I called the dealership and gave them a peace of my mind. I plan to go in tomorrow morning and demand a new car. If they don't give me one, I plan to yell my story to all their customers in their showroom. Should be interesting.
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