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Now it is a very high racing engine on startup and I can't kick it down.
Whats the mechanism that controls that? Mechanical? VACUME?
Thanks for your time.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Rebuilt carb, replaced fuel pump, replaced catalytic conv, cleaned gas tank and replaced sock. Put truck on dyno with heavy load and ran perfectly.
Problem: Under these conditions engine will run but will lose almost all compression. Will have difficulty maintaining 35 mph. Driving 70 mph, pulling hill and facing headwinds, drizzle and 40F. Pull over look in carb, it is very dry with no icing. Let truck idle for 10 to 15 minutes and it will return to normal. Would appreciate any suggestions. This problem has stumped some excellent mechanics. Thanks for any help.
Check the heater hoses, I have not had any problems with my truck but I had a camaro that did the exact same thing and found that one of the heater hoses would collapse as it got hot.
Now I dont know if your model is equipped with this or not, but while your following the lines see it there is a heater control valve in line.
Thanks in advance
please email me at onlyjester@aol.com
with any help you can provide, thanks
The Firing order is:
1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2
Hope this helps you out
Thanks Friend
My dad worked for G.M. at the orion plant in MI. retired and moved up here in 90. He has passed on since, but he tried to get me in there to work, but instead I went into the Marine Corps, spent 12 years, fun.
Anyway sir, thank you for everything and hopefully this truck will run for me now. Ill talk to you later, Respectfully, Brett
Enjoy
Basically narrowed it down to an Evap problem. A mechanic told me not to worry about it and not to bother getting it fixed because it costs a lot and isn't something that will cause further problems.
Of course I don't quite trust this information and wanted some other opinions.
Will this cause future trouble? Does the cost to fix outweigh the benefits of having it working properly? Any opinons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
heeelp//////
thanks bob
thanks bob
I already tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset it all and that damn light was the first thing that was on when I started it back up and it stayed on. It was extremely frustrating because it was the second inspection appointment I've had to cancel. :mad:
Do I really need to invest $200 in a new catalytic converter just to get my check engine light to shut off so I can pass inspection?!? :confuse:
From what you described, are you sure its your cat that is causing the light to stay on? If you don't have a code reader you can take it to most part stores and they will read it for free. They won't clear it but they can read it and give you a better indication of whats going on. Keep in mind that some times the code isn't exact, its just a starter in that direction.
In order to clear the code you can use the technique you outlined or clear it with a code reader. However, before you can clear the code you first have to remedy the reason the code came up to start with.
Talk about frustration, I had to install a cat on my S-10 to get it to pass inspection. I used aftermarket and made it fit. I made new flanges and brackets and it all looked purdy when I was done. I was happy and patted myself on the back. One of the new brackets I made I mounted it to the bottom of the cab (bad move). It set up a vibration of which I miss-diagnosed as a bad transmission. After I dropped the tranny, had it overhauled, and re installed I discovered that wasn't my problem, it was the bracket mounted to the bottom of the cab.
That wasn't the dumbest thing I have ever done but I won't forget it for awhile. Sometimes you just got to have a since of humor.
Good luck :shades:
Has anybody else experienced air flowing through your vents, similar to if the fan was on low, when you have the knob on OFF. ??? any suggestions?