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Where there any sparks? If not, it sounds like a design issue and I sure hope that the audio CPU is not ruined. You should ask the dealer to check the Service Manual to see if there is a protective diode in the power circuit for the Audio controller PCU.
Once upon a time I reversed polarity on my Isuzu Axiom while doing a battery jump... sparks flew and fuses blew, but there was no permanent damage. From the sound of one posting, this might not be the case with the Pilot. Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
We have taken the car to the same dealership for all our services plus we just bought a Ridgeline from them a few months ago...
Thanks
The Secret Warranty - Understanding After Warranty Assistance
Odie
Odie
bjader
See:
http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/crank-oil-and-piston/where-is-the-kn- ock-sensor-on-a-2003-honda-pilot/
bjader
Anyone out there had any issues like this one?
Please help me..
Melrican in Puerto Rico
I have seen other posts about hard bumpy rides, and the suggestions of adding an Acura vibration pilot subframe brace, changing the old BF Goodrich's to something that is more suitable for off road, ie, Michelin LTX M/S, or swapping the Shock Absorbers, and hopefully improving the ride. Any users with suggestions about solving the hard ride issue, any problem solvers welcome. Thanks
Previous to the Pilot purchase, I suffered with ride issues for years with an Isuzu Axiom SUV, and the entire problem boiled down to the OEM shock absorbers and the Intelligent control system attached to them. I ended up ripping all that crap out and putting in some Monroe Sensatracs and was happy, after years of having a crappy ride, no matter what kind of tire was installed on the SUV. Other Axiom owners used Biltsteins or other high end shock absorbers for the same reason, and there are many postings about this on the Edmunds Axiom forum...
The bottom line is it's all about the shock absorbers IMHO, unless there is some mechanical problem with your vehicle.
Odie
So far, I already replaced all 4 tires (at $800, ouch). The front rotors and brake pads have to be replaced, but I haven't done that yet, and was quoted $450-$550. I probably need to replace the rear ones soon too. Besides these, what else do I expect that are not covered under warranty?
By my calculation, the difference between keeping this 2009 vs. purchasing a new 2012 Pilot is $7,000. This means, if I don't spend another dime on repairing the 2009, I'm $7,000 better off with my old car. But if the total repair cost in the next 3 years exceeds $7000, then I'm better of buying a new car (of course, factoring in my time at the shop.)
As to your question, you did not say if you wanted to trade in on another Honda Pilot, or a different vehicle, which makes a big difference in the answer. I say that because Honda is offering 0.9% financing on the 2012 Honda Pilot for up to 60 months right now, which is a FANTASTIC deal if you can find a dealer that is offering a decent price on the new 2012 Pilots, as well as a good trade in, or if YOU are a great haggler. Anyway, as you no doubt realize, 0.9% is like getting a loan from the Federal Reserve! Also, they are offering 0.9%>1.9% on Ridgelines, which if I had to do over, I might have bought instead of my Pilot, since I treat mine like a pickup anyway.
While there are a lot of things about the Pilot that I really dislike, it does have a lot going for it: good mileage for its size (I get 18-21 mpg), roominess, safety, resale, appearance, sturdiness, and towing capacity, to name a few. If those matter to you, then you may want to stick with what you have and save the $7K
Back to your question: what repair costs to expect? If you have the same extended warranty that I do, then you should only be paying for wear and tear items, not warranty problems. I have had mine to the dealer for failure of the left front transaxle seal, which would have cost me $700, but cost me nothing! Also, a minor trim problem with the body that they took care of.
To save bucks, I learned how to do my own fluid changes. So, I do my own oil changes, differential fluid changes, transmission fluid changes and so on. For the last two you have to buy pricey Honda fluids only. But, it was not that hard to do, and there were video tutorials online. So, I have changed my tranny fluid and the differential fluid recently. Both had magnetic drain plugs and both had some tiny metal particles attached to them and both fluids needed to be changed. So, if you are not willing or able to do this yourself, you should pay someone to do it for you, probably the dealer, since the tranny and rear end differential REQUIRE Honda fluids. Put another way, don't go to Iffy Lube to get it done, or you will void your warranty by using non-Honda fluids.
If you had a mechanic buddy, with an air compressor and air ratchets, and the know how, you could change the front rotors and brake pads yourself, but it is a difficult repair if you have not done it before. I would also point out that you can get this done at any competent mechanic, not just the dealership, so a Firestone or reputable tire place could do this for you instead, perhaps at a lower price. You should shop this one around.
One odd thing is that it seems premature to be replacing rotors. Are they warped? If so, why didn't the Honda warranty cover that if it is premature? Your Honda rotors should not warp, and if they have - your dealer should be forwarding your request for assistance to the regional Honda office if your warranty doesn't cover this! IMHO the warranty should, because the rotors should NOT warp. If they are just worn and not warped, rotors can be turned and reinstalled, (as you may know) and you can get another 40K miles out of them. So, this task warrants a 2nd opinion IMO.
Last, but not least, i would say that just because you are replacing the front rotors, it doesnt mean you have to replace the rear ones. In fact the rear brakes get a lot less wear than the front. Quick stopping causes the problems with the front disc brakes, as the weight of the vehicle is transmitted to the front.
So, unless some mechanic has told you otherwise, (and I would question whether the dealership is setting you up if this IS the case), then you should not need rear disc rotors replaced. Pads at the most, and I am even dubious about that.
IMHO, it's too early to do the trade-in, because of the loss of value you mentioned. But, if you do, it's a great time to do it! Also, if you keep it, do the tranny fluid and diff. fluid changes, which are the two big ticket repair items, and are inexpensive maintenance tasks. Use synthetic oil in the engine at all changes and change it when prompted or on time, and you should not have that many problems. Or only minor ones that the warranty should cover anyway.
Hope that helps.
However, my 2011 Pilot was not affected by this recall, but when I noticed an odd popping noise coming from the left front suspension and took it in to be checked out, it turned out to be premature failure of the front axle seal, an issue fully covered under the warranty (Otherwise a $700 repair). So, that's a possibility, too. Either way, you'll need to put it on a rack to figure it out, so a trip to the dealer is probably in order, because it could be a safety issue.
Post back with the outcome.
1. My pilot is less then 3 yrs and I also got hondacare extend warranty, is this repairing covered by the warranty?
2. If not covered, should I bring my car to honda dealer or other auto shop for better price?
3. The estimate of the cost?
Thanks
I did not do it tdy because they charged $150, is that a resonable price?
Thank you so much
My impression was that this was a common and well known problem with the 2011 Pilots, possibly already documented on a TSB. If they give you some nonsense to the contrary, it's time to ask to speak to the Regional Customer Service Manager, just to be sure, because it's a $700 repair.
Now, of course, I do not know if yours is the same situation, but if there is a defect, it should be covered. In fact, they may be avoiding a recall by fixing it for customers who complain. Think of how many might not!
Does anyone have experience in not replacing belts until much later than usual?
Thanks-
Rich
That being said I was surprised they had timing belts, I think most manufacturers have chains.
tom
Odie
I have had two Pilots 4wd, 1993, the first I drove for 180,000 + miles, and my current Pilot has 95,000, also a 4wd.
Aside from normal maintenance, more cabin filters, than usual and a blown rear speaker, I have had no mechanical issues whatsoever.
I live on a Ranch in California, and both have been driven hard, hi rpm, low rpm, dust dirt, rain, mud, long idle times, pulling trailers (for hay and motorcycles) long distances.
Never have I had an issue with a Catalytic Converter, and I don't understand how you possibly have gone through 4 CC's unless there is something fundamentally wrong with your Pilot mechanically.
You could not be much rougher on the machine that I am.
Please advise an old cowhand. Thanks
Welcome to the world of ISUZU!! At least since yours wears a Honda name tag, you can get it serviced at the Honda dealer!
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/review.aspx?year=2006&make=Honda&model=Pilot&c- p-documentid=434872
The Honda Passport was the re-badged Isuzu..
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Odie
If he presses the unlock botton on his keychain FOB, it then allows the car to start. Sometimes he has to do this several times.
This issue happens with all 3 of his mechanical keys. It seems as if there is a solenoid in the steering column that is having trouble disengaging.
Wondering if any other Pilot owners have/had the same issue or if someone has an idea on what needs to be done.