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onyx black
Compass mirror
cargo net
moonroof
after ford employee pricing, price was $19k and something cant remember exactly.
Lease for 2 years 12k miles/yr, with 0-down, I will be paying $294/mo.
Although, they didnt have my car in stock, they are supposed to be getting it either today or 2morro. So all I believe I did was put a $500 deposit down to "hold" the car...but I don't believe I am in any contract as of yet...so maybe I can still negotiate the price lower?
I'm really bad at this stuff.
I don't know anything about leasing, so can't speak to that aspect...except it seems to me keeping a car for only 24 months is not exactly a money saving move .
I got the redfire metalic, auto., no additional options.
MSRP was 21,125. Oh, and I'm in Orlando, FL. Hope this helps someone else!
Were there any rebates included to get this pricing?
Edmunds site says the TMV is 20,122 minus a 1000 rebate.
I would appreciate any more info...
MSRP $20925
MF: 0.00113
Residual: 61%
Miles: 13500/year, for 24 months
The OTD price is $259/month, sign and drive (0 down).
best wishes
Good Luck
--jjf
I am in the market looking to get a 2007 Mazda6 i VE HB auto. Want to target a deal at about 8k under MSRP. Just wonder how possible it is? I am not in a hurry so I can wait until end of this year or even some time next year.
I checked kbb, an used similarly equipped 06 i HB auto is about $16k, add 15% will bring it to $18.4k. But I also heard in another forum one can get a $6k off MSRP deal for a 07 s model. If I can get a $6k off MSRP deal as well for my configuration, it will become $22k - 6k = 16k. Kind of confusing?
If that is a Hatchback auto sometimes the formula produces something like this if the manufacturer lowered the MSRP. I think nada publishes msrp for each model year. I thought the hatch was higher than 22k.
Good luck
--jjf
Here's the details:
Mazda6i Sport Value Edition Auto
MSRP $21,125
Negotiated price $15,988
Total cap cost $17,291
Residual $11,618
Base monthly payment $209.35 + $6.28 (tax) = $215.63
This is a 36-month, 12,000 miles per year lease with $0 down and $0 security deposit.
I love my 6 so far! Best of luck to everyone here and thanks for all the tips and advice I received!!!
What am I missing here? By the way, liked the seating better in the 6 than the 3s that the wife ended up buying in '05.
The Sandman :confuse:
The only advantages I can see is a car always under warranty and the ability to just walk away at terms end.
Plus, if you consider that residual as unrealistically high, then you are even farther ahead..
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There is a tax advantage (which is touted to the max by salesmen) to the lease if you use the car for business, but this may be (largely?) negated with the average mediocre lease deals.
I'm not saying there aren't deals to be had, but you have to do it the right way.
--jjf
You just answered your own question...
The only advantages I can see is a car always under warranty and the ability to just walk away at terms end.
Plus, if you consider that residual as unrealistically high, then you are even farther ahead
If I add the monthly payments (excluding tax) and the residual, and then figure out the approximate effective interest rate based on the $16K price, I get about 7.5%. That seems like it's in the range of the market rate for car loans. The difference is that you are spending more on interest because the interest is on a larger balance than with a purchase. If you end up buying, it is as if you had a loan with a large baloon payment at the end.
Really the only advantages are a lower monthly payment and a guaranteed trade in value, because if you want your car to always be under warranty you can do that by buying a new one every 3 years/36K mi or by purchasing an extended warranty.
The lease bank is taking all the risk on future value, not you. In the case of the 8, resale and trade values are in the toilet. If you had purchased the car and financed you would be upside down a long time on the car. With the lease, the car may not be worth the buyout at the end - so you just turn it in and walk away. The 8 may be the first car I have ever had to turn in, in all my other lease deals I managed to find someone to buy my car at or before the lease was up. I made anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand depending on the market and the car.
The key to any deal - lease, loan, or cash - is getting a good price at the start, then getting a good finance package (if not paying cash). If you get the car cheap with cheap money, you will usually come out OK.
The other thing "lease haters" don't get is the freedom of no trade in. I go get my new cars at cheap prices with no trade worries or hassles. Folks that hate (don't understand) leases probably also get ripped on their trade each time. If you do not sell your old car yourself, you are losing money - and most folks do not. So even if the lease cost is MORE than buying, losing thousands on your trade later will make that up.
Dennis
I have always found that if you go into the dealer knowing what you want intermsa of car and price, and you're patient, you will be satisfied at the end. We waited the dealer out for four weeks, and ended up very close to our goals for trade in value and price on a very good new car.
Heritage Mazda in Owings Mills, MD
Responses are very much appreciated
The Sandman
1. 17" Alloy Wheels
2. Side Sill Extentions
3. Body Color Sport Grill
4. Black trimmed tail lamp bezels
5. Black color headlamp housing
6. 8 way power driver seat
7. In-dash 6-disc CD changer
8. Leather wrapped sterring wheel
all for like 4 or 5 hundred bucks over the base.
Good Luck
--jjf
Got a quote of $23,990 from a dealer in St.Louis for a Mazda 6s Grand Touring style...the msrp was $28265. Is thia good deal?? How low can I go??
Good Luck
--jjf
What is the correlation between wholesale price of a used vehicle and the price of a new one other than "what you would WANT to pay"?
There are rebates, invoice, holdback, marketing support(manufacturer to dealer), and supply and demand to factor into determining a best price for a new vehicle.
With a rebate of $1750 and no manufacturer to dealer on the 07 Mazda6 i and s models it appears very unrealistic to expect a dealer to be over $4000 off in addition to the rebate.
Perhaps there is something I am failing to take into account?
There are too many nameplates etc and a worldwide oversupply of manufacturing capacity to do otherwise. Eating $500/mo for the 1st 12 months is maybe OK for a $45000+ MSRP luxury brand but not here.
Get 10 or so bids via email and Mazda website towards the end of month from dealers in a radius around your home on a vehicle close to your requirements. See where the bids fall and work with the best. This is the only way to find what is realistic.
You are correct that supply and demand is part of the equation and if you find yourself cornered with one dealer holding the only tangerine green touring with fancy red border leather seats within 500 miles you are going to need competing bids to beat him over the head with and work the best deal with a good poker face.
5000-6000 off MSRP is not uncommon on the 22000 special value 4cyl and such especially in August and go from there. The markup (and possible discount) should be better on the pricier model. Manufacturer to dealer cash is hard to gauge as much can be unadvertised and is obviously a card to be held close to the vest by the dealer.. The end of month gig usually flushes some of this out from a few.
Good Luck
--jjf
The 06 grand touring s wholesales for about 18000 now with about 16000 miles on it so personally I would want to pay about 21xxx ish for a new one.
Good Luck
--jjf
What is the correlation between wholesale price of a used vehicle and the price of a new one other than "what you would WANT to pay"?
There are rebates, invoice, holdback, marketing support(manufacturer to dealer), and supply and demand to factor into determining a best price for a new vehicle.
With a rebate of $1750 and no manufacturer to dealer on the 07 Mazda6 i and s models it appears very unrealistic to expect a dealer to be over $4000 off in addition to the rebate.
Perhaps there is something I am failing to take into account?
I bought my '04 6S sedan in August of '04, after carefully weighing it against the Legacy GT and TSX. So far, it's been close to three years and over 50K miles, and I still smile when walking to my car in the morning! The performance of the V6 and 5-speed manual has been excellent. The handling is spot-on, with excellent steering feel, brakes that won't quit, and great visibility. Gas mileage with the V6 averages about 25-27 MPG (75% highway), and dropping a gear (or two) makes passing a breeze, both on the highway, and on a twisty two-lane, which by the way are absolute fun!
The downsides? Few. The cloth seats aren't very durable, and look worn more than they should be (Mazda upgraded the cloth seats and material for '06, and I've heard that they're much better and more durable). The turning radius is big, making parking maneuvers a little more interesting than other midsize cars, but I've adapted. The only item requiring a trip to the dealer was a faulty gas cap that tripped on the "check engine" light, but was replaced under warranty. Other than that, I've only needed oil changes.
From a G20t, I'll think you'll appreciate the extra room that the 6 offers, while maintaining excellent performance and a slight penalty in fuel economy. Go ahead, get the 6!
You might want to post that question to the here: Midsize Sedans 2.0
But they are pretty in love with the Accord.
Here is a price reference for a Chicago dealer. I purchased a Protege from them several years ago. No recent experience.
Same engine as our 3s also, but I'd bet the mileage suffers a bit due to the weight increase of the 6 over the 3. The charcol gray and burgandy colors looked very stealth on this car also. Very impressive car. Funny though, I'd bet even the Sonata outsells the 6 in the U S by a large margin. Probably can't even compare the numbers that the Camcordima's sell here also. Still, I liked it!
The Sandman
3 and 6 pricing is not much different. They have been doing rebates and other incentives on the 6 but have not needed them to sell the 3.
Same engine as our 3s also, but I'd bet the mileage suffers a bit due to the weight increase of the 6 over the 3.
Difference is only 1 mpg, per new EPA rating. Old rating was 1 mpg different for city and same on hwy.
I tried to go drive the car today but as I was driving through the parking lot I had a salesmen try to flag me down (almost getting himself run over in the process) and then chase after me towards a parking spot. It was pretty upsetting to have that sort of pressure applied before I even got out the car, so I just drove on home.
List (true Sticker MSRP) Price was $29,440.00.
I paid $22,440.00 before tax, license and title, $57.00 doc fee.
$6000.00 in Dealer Discounts/Rebates and a $1000.00 Rebate from Mazda for Financing thru Mazda Credit. I made a couple of payments and paid the car off. So it did cost me a few bucks in interest.
Got a quote on a 07 Mazdaspeed6 Sport for $26,971, about $500 over invoice. That car has been for sale since mid-June according to CarFax. That's before the $1750, so we're about $3300 under MSRP right now. Seems like I'd be good if they'd do $25,833 which is invoice w/o the destination fee, or $4507 under MSRP with the rebate. Can't hurt to ask, huh?
I've been reading that about $1450 below MSRP($21,375) would be a good deal with the zero % financing.
Does that sound about right? thanks for your help.
Just to be clear. It's either a $1750 off OR the zero % financing right? We are going with the zero..
ws46
That's right. $1750 rebate or 0% for 36 months. Make sure you run the numbers because for the interest rates I've gotten the cash back is better.
Edmunds has a calculator to help you compare - http://www.edmunds.com/apps/calc/CalculatorController?pmtcalAction=intro_calc
I wish it would take into account the interest that I would be earning from setting aside the cash in a money market account and making monthly payments from it. Getting 5.25% interest rate on 30K over the 3 year period (but with around $850 subtracted from it every month) isn't bad.
Of course, things get more complicated with changing interest rates and inflation..
So, any price paid/experiences for for 2007 Mazda 6 5-door sport value edition?.. thanks!
ws46
--jjf
Hi, we are looking to purchase a Mazda 6 5-door sport value edition. Preferably a manual.
I've been reading that about $1450 below MSRP($21,375) would be a good deal with the zero % financing.
Does that sound about right? thanks for your help.
Just to be clear. It's either a $1750 off OR the zero % financing right? We are going with the zero..
ws46
There are between $1750 to $2250 in rebates depending on region.