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The outside temperature says -22°F outside, when it was about 70°F outside.
So I can't get the AC to work. Anyone else experience this and what the fix was?
My CEL light is also on again right after I had the dealer fix it for $500. Transmission might be going again as well. Only 70,000 miles.
Not sure if my next car will be another Nissan.
you can buy a honds accord, but don't think they are perfect. just read the threads written by those who purchased an 08 accord with automatic tranny.
they are screaming about enging surging due to the cylinder deactivation program. I'll take a stuck gas door any day of the week. in general, nissans with the v6 and cvt have been very reliable.
and yes, I have an 03 and i put up with a lot of repairs, e.g., recall on alternator, seat repair, clicking from front wheel (front wheel adjusting nut not tight enough) etc. still, given all the problems people have with cars, its has been ok, since the dealer has mostly been reasonable. I don't think that nissan corporate is worth a dam though. rr70
Thanks!
If you need a manual, check Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online for a link.
And please tell the world about your experience - visit Dealer Ratings and Reviews.
It's unlikely that Edmunds will set up a review service for our good neighbors to the north anytime soon; we're pretty US centric and unfortunately don't do TMV or invoice pricing for the Canadian market either.
But we can set up a forum where you can post the winners and losers and maybe save someone from getting jacked. Here's the link:
Canadian Dealer Ratings and Reviews
Lots of Canadians visit the various Prices Paid forums here to try to figure out what to offer for a new or used car - there's one of those for just about every make and model that's common to the US and CA.
See you at Timmy's?
I bough my Nissan Murano 2008 SL in October 2008. It took me a whole month of tweaking, re-adjusting, experimenting with the leather seats... Nothing helped...
The main problem I have identified is the seat design - it is slanted upwards, and you cannot do anything about it. There is absolutely no way to level the seat, so one keeps sliding towards the back of the seat, which creates pressure points on the lower back...
I took it for the service, they told me that the seats are fine. This is by design, they said, and advised me to use a back pillow (can you believe that?! I've paid in cash $5K up-front and am paying $460/mo, only to find out that I still need a pillow)...
I am trying to get used to the new seat design, but it gives me a lot of back pain...
And the most upsetting part about it is that it is a really great car!!! Such a pity that they could not design the seats well...
Pbergn, try an auto upholstery shop. A good one should be able to rebuild the seats with different types of foams (depending, perhaps, on any side air bags in the seats) or recommend a less invasive solution.
My wife has car fever and seat comfort is a concern. Seats that feel too firm initially sometimes wind up being great on longer jaunts. But unless you can get some long sit time in a car before buying it, it's hard to know how the seats are going to work out, unless they are really bad initially.
I've had to roll a T-Shirt up and stick it in the lumbar area on a couple of our cars. But if the seat length is wrong for your thighs, you may never get comfortable.
Another thing to watch out for is how the seat edge lines up with the floor pedals - if that's cockeyed, it can strain your legs.
Thank you for your concern and advice... By the way, I had a typo - it is murano 2009 and NOT 2008... The car is greate, I love it, it is just the driver seat that I am not able to get used to (the passenger one, and the rear ones feel not to bad)... The cushion is a little short and is slightly slanted upwards on the driver side. The seat cannot be entirely levelled... But I assume this is not a major flow. From what I understand, most of the people find the seat pretty comfortable, so it could be for some reason I can not get adjusted, or something... Can be an individual thing, I mean...
Anyway, slowly getting used to the new design... I repeat, it is a great car! Probably the best I have ever had, except for this problem...
Mo Hyde
Thanks
I'm new here.
I have a 2006 Murano thats covered 80,000 miles, and have a transmission shaft problem. Audible noise/rattle comes on at low speeds of around 40mph.
No noise during normal acceleration, but only when I put my foot off the gas/coast and start to step on the gas gently.
Problem is that the item is out of stock for the next month or so.
Will this problem damage the differential if not replaced soon?
Should I also change the bearing?
Anyway, I don't think NASA is developing transmission fluid for automobiles, but maybe they contracted with Pennzoil or some outfit for research and it spilled over into the Murano CVT fluid. (link)
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says to inspect the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles. I don't see a change interval for it. It doesn't wear out like motor oil.
The CVT oil needs to be replaced ~60,000 miles. You can do this yourself. The plug is on the bottom of the CVT case (like an oil plug). Remove the dip stick up top to allow air to flow through. Purchase the oil only from a Nissan dealer; use no substitutes. You will need about 10-12 quarts ($21.00 ea.). Drain out as much as you can (~6 qts.); replace plug; replace the same amount that you removed through the dip stick throat. Run the car for 1-2 days to cycle through the new oil. Repeat the drain & fill process (best if oil is warm). The 2nd change gets out the oil stored in the torque converter.
After doing all this I advise that you replace the car with a Toyota or a Honda; I am. Mine has been a maintenance nightmare ('03 Murano SE owner).
Good luck.
Thanks,
bj
Regarding the transmission issues I have been reading about, I have had none. "0". Maybe we were lucky, but we have changed the oil at 50K and will again since I am approaching 100K.
Unlike some writers, we have owned 3 Nissans and will own another one if we live long enough.
Ron
Took it in for service about a year and a half ago and spent nearly $2K. Was told "it's like a new car under the hood now - you shouldn't have any more problems." Within just a couple of months the warning light was back on. Took it in "can't replicate the problem." Long story short, when problem continued and my local mechanic got a reading on the computer about a possible catalytic converter issue I took it back to the dealership. They diagnosed a crack manifold but told me that when removing the manifold from the CC, the bolts are often rusted/damaged and sometimes the CC gets damaged during the process. Of course, this is what happened with mine. My $800. repair turned into $2K! Needless to say I am really unhappy - why should a design flaw be my responsibility to pay for?
Also, when a "check engine light" comes on, you check the codes yourself if you think the dealer is trying to pass the buck on the problem. Some auto parts stores (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, others?) will lend you a code reader (to plug into your ODBII port) to read the code and get the plain language description of the problem. I use a handy gizmo called a Carchip I bought on eBay which you leave plugged into your ODBII port, and then attach to your computer to read the codes and other paramaters it logs. Very handy.
--jayhawk
As one writer said, fix problem and then sell this piece of crap.
Murano = proof that the Japenses can build crap just like Detroit!
I'd like to get extended warranty. How? Where? Cost?
At end of 35 months, what items should be checked because they have great potential to fail soon after? I'd like to get any potential items checked and fixed under warranty.
Any thoughts or experiences?
I turned my engine 4 days ago and the 'service engine soon' light appears on the RPM instrument panel. Since then, it's always ON everytime I start my car. My car runs OK and don't show any problem and I'm up to date with my maintenance. Can anyone tell me what's causing this and how to turn this thing OFF.
Sorry
My mechanic cannot believe how many miles I have on the front breaks and they still do not need replacing. Just replaced the rear breaks at 77K. I am lucky that my mechanic employs a person that worked on Muranos at a dealership and he knows his stuff. Unless my mechanic says he cannot fix, I will not go to a dealer for repairs.
2 days nothing, and then just a light jerk, like fuel did not get through for a milisecond..They also did clean the air filter (dusty roads). Sometimes the revs drop low, especially if I drove at high speed and have to slow down. As i start to pick up speed, ussually then the jerking appears. Most of the times the vehicle is fine. But 15000 more k and my Maintenance plan expires, and then I sit with this. What can I do? It sounds like a small problem, but considering selling. But how can you sell knowing this happens.
Any advise would be appreciated?