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We are still getting ready to sell our 2006 Liberty with 16,000 miles on it. Our daughter really wanted it, but found 16 mpg was not in her real tight budget, so we got it back. It runs good rides ok, and I put the Goodyear Fortura tires on it, there are great tires and they are really high dollar. I just might put them on the Compass when it needs tires.
Hope you get the papers soon.
farout
On our most recent trip, I pulled out of a rest stop on Interstate 5 in Central California -- on a 102-degree afternoon -- and ran quickly up to highway speed, then backed off the accelerator abruptly. Then I noticed that the car would hold speed, but it would not accelerate, not at all. This was a bit unnerving, as we were approaching heavy traffic in Sacramento, CA. I drove until I could get off the highway easily, then parked, shut it down, opened the hood, and waited about five minutes for the motor to cool a bit. Then it was back onto the highway, without further drama.
Funny thing is that our Jetta TDI did the same thing on the same highway last year. I was roaring up a steep hill in the fast lane, also on a warm day. Once again, I abruptly took my foot off the accelerator -- it may have been a scary Police moment, though I admit nothing. The car immediately lost power and as everyone passed me, it was like we were sliding back down the hill. We eventually reached the summit, rolled slowly into a town and by the time I'd found a Jetta mechanic the problem had cured itself. I guessed then that the turbo wastegate had stuck open briefly.
The only moral to all this is that if you lose power like I did, it may be the same sort of self-healing temporary issue. It would be interesting if those more knowledgeable about diesels would weigh in with ideas regarding what happened both times. Wastegate, alien death ray, or ???
By the way, I usually run B99 biodiesel. The cars both start fine and run fine, even when our Pacific Northwest weather turns chilly.
With the common rail, if you are in this situation, the EGR's Airflow Control Valve will close the access to the inlet manifold when you turn off the engine. Oil leaks cannot get through and mix with air.
If this is not the case, perhaps your pedal sensor was stuck due to excessive pressure
Our dealer has done all the steps, but we still have the noise! Good luck
Driving long distances at 60 mph in top gear is not common practice in the EU and "leaves aside" the converter issue.
Unsolved powertrain+injection+EGR issues are scarce or not addressed to the public. Most EU common rail engines pour ribbons of black smoke when around 75,000 miles: they need new EGR valves. Since diesel fuel price is rising continuously, the "diesel mania" may be coming to an end. :confuse:
Next trip down the interstate, the gauge was doing its thing again and as soon as the speed limit allowed 75 mph, the gauge went nearly into the red. Other than the gauge reading high and the A/C stopping for a minute or two, the motor and transmission seemed to function fine. I did notice the tach would vary about 100-200 rpms, so I assumed the torque converter was having trouble staying locked. After about 45 minutes of 75 mph, the transmission appeared to let go. The motor was still running and as I pulled off the road, the motor idled roughly and stalled out. When I turned the key to start it, the starter sounded as though it was turning an engine with no compression. Obviously, it didn't start. I had it towed to a local dealership and they (we?) determined it was probably a broken timing belt. I figured the torque converter was toast also, but we couldn't make any determinations about the transmission until we got the motor running. The dealer quoted $850 to replace the timing belt and warned me that if the belt had broken at 75 mph, it probably would have bent a couple valves also. Of course that would cost another $2500 or so for the head work. At that point, I told them I'd seen a a low mileage replacement motor on eBay for around $3000, so it would be pointless for them to do any work. Interestingly enough, they did a preliminary diagnosis and determined the timing belt was indeed broken. My decision was to cut my losses and tow the Liberty home and work on it myself.
I found the motor I wanted on eBay and made the appropriate deal. At this point, I'm still thinking I've got a blown torque converter, so I looked into getting a more bulletproof transmission solution too. The appropriate solution seemed to be a Suncoast converter (1200 stall speed) with a rebuild kit for the rest of the transmission. Suncoast recommended the heavy duty clutches (and shift kit too) since the stock transmission would not tolerate the new converter for long.
Now I've spent close to $5000 in replacement parts and it's time to pull the motor and trans out of the Jeep. I disconnected the transmission and went to remove the torque converter bolts and guess what...turning the harmonic balancer isn't turning the flex plate. Even worse, I can turn the flex plate by hand through the starter hole. I'm not that smart, so at this point I figure the crankshaft is broken along with the timing belt. But, since I could turn the flex plate by hand, I got the converter bolts off and removed the transmission. Next I started to remove the engine (yesterday) and got underneath to attach a pull strap when I got many of the answers to my mystery. The flex plate was sheared off the crankshaft!
Now when I finally pulled the engine, I checked the timing belt and of course it wasn't broken. Turns out the dealership had done the recall (F37) back in February and replaced the torque converter too. Then they sold the vehicle to me, I drove it 4,000 miles and I got the benefit of a fatigued piece of metal that costs $20.
Now, I'm not angry or looking to blame anyone for this, I actually enjoy having a summer project like this. But I think it will make an interesting story as to how this new motor and transmission will work with the ECM/TCM settings
the dealership has stuck in my Liberty's little brain.
Anyone out there have any comments about this?
Are not at all concerned about possible pre-detonation when egr is disabled this way? Please explain your faith in the ORM to not cause premature engine wear/failure. I ask- this because I'd love to have the nerve to maintain the ORM (tried it briefly), but don't want to do it w/o reasonable certainty of what I'm doing Thanks..
F37 is the Antichrist !!
Let us know the results. (hope that you have the cd to do all of this work)
Nescosmo.
I disconnected the vacuum actuator of my EGR valve almost 2 years ago and simply forgot about it!
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/EGR_plug.jpg
As you can see on this picture, my truck uses the solenoid valve located behind the air filter housing to pilot my EGR valve because I don't have the variable vanes on the turbo and my EGR sits on top of the exhaust manifold. Yours is fitted on the other side of the engine.
When I took the truck to the dealership for a ball joint recall and to replace the front disk brakes, the mechanics checked the engine before taking the Jeep for a road test. They just told me they had less than 1% of customers like me and that I would surely enjoy the 300C station wagon. I didn't quite understand this statement because I used my truck to it's limits. Can the 300C CRD do more? I've never seen one working in the fields :confuse:
nescosmo: on this picture you could already see the low level of the steering fluid I had to replenish recently. It must have been a factory defect!
Nescosmo.
When I pulled trees out of a piece of land, the side walls were severely worn but did not peel off. They have scars but no internal damage.
The rim protection lip of the tire could be slightly more prominent. I had bark pinched between the rim and tire plus abrasion marks on the rims, but this is purely cosmetic
Last but not least: it took me more than a week to get a good grip with the BFG TA. I think the de moulding lubricant used by the manufacturer is the cause. Watch out on wet roads!
I have over 22K miles on my Liberty and the front end alignment is still in good order. It has never been touched except for the ball joint recall last year. The dealer did check the alignment and found it perfect.
The only two times the engine check light has appeared was at 682 miles and at 14K miles. The first took an update to fix and the second time required a new EGR valve.
On another note, my wife and I travelled to New York and back or about 540 miles total. FE for the trip was 29.5 MPG (calculated). Not to shabby.
Twocycle2
farout
Start with the dealer first and work your way up, but have in mind what you expect before you talk with anyone. Good luck.
farout
My opinion is there are two major factors with the CRD. One is that the fuel we have here in the US is not equal to the EU fuel. The use of non-uniform quality od Bio fuel. Bio fuel is unregulated as to quality, and long term storage of the fuel is effected by heat, length of time in stroage, and quality of making it, and the fact the labling of B-5 and above is not very accurate. Anyone of these issues can severelydanage the parts and runing of these CRD's.
farput
I believe DCX will attempt to help when they see there is a problem, but they made huge mistakes in the designing of the CRD for the US.
farout
thx
Twocycle2
Hope this answers your question.
farout
Thanks farout....if the vehicle is still within the original manuf warranty period, does the warranty still apply to these vehicles? This is just something I'm curious about....NO, I am NOT looking at buying another one. But in the case of yours, DCX never could fix it....why would they want to auction it off to another consumer and then have to continue doing warranty repairs? Or, does the manuf have the right to void the remainder of the warranty and sell the car "as-is"?
Thx for any info anyone can offer!
Twocycle2
What is rather interesting about this problem is that the engine check light did not appear, nor was there a chime of any kind to tell that there was a problem.
As to that code not appearing your repair manual, I have to guess that the engine controller in your 2003 is different from the one found in my 2005. There is a website that lists all of the codes associated with the 2005 CRD and when I get home I will send it to you. There is plenty of fuel in the tank, so fuel starvation is not likely unless the fuel pump failed.
Based on what you propose, I am wondering if the crankshaft position sensor failed or the timing belt failed? My CRD remains in the shop and the diesel tech should get to it sometime today. As so as I have a diagnosis, I will let you know.
I would still be happy to brag about my CRD. It is a bit of a bummer, but s--- happens!
Here's the interesting thing - the Volvo dealer surveyed two Jeep dealers and two non-Jeep dealers for trade-in value. The latter gave higher numbers than the Jeep dealers! I didn't do as much as I would like on the eventual trade-in price but the discount I'm sure was a factor.
Why did I trade? Well, comments on this board (I'm not complaining- thanks for all that, this is a great board) and the paucity of diesel mechanics in East Tennessee, let alone those who know the Liberty diesel. I didn't have the F-37 done because I didn't want a mechanic to learn on mine - there are only two CRD's in this area and the other didn't get the recall (plus service manager said, if it ain't broke, don't screw it up!). The car ran well after the harness replacement and I loved it for its ease of use and versatility (our other vehicles are Jags - both run well without problems) but I was concerned about the future for all the reasons expressed by others on the board.
Bona fortuna to all the CRD owners, including whoever buys mine! (Sorry for the length of this message.)
I know I've not been posting much in the last 6 months, but hopefully you'll remember me from my posts last year. My CRD isn't as bad as some people's experience but it is starting to make the dealership its second home, and I'm getting really tired of going 1-7 days without my vehicle on a fairly regular basis. At the moment it's in for a new right rear brake caliper/rotor/pads/line because the caliper apparently seized and damaged everything else. Not all my problems have been diesel-specific, but some have, and overall I'm just wondering if I can find something else more reliable. I'm at about 30,500 miles at this point so I'm still within basic warranty, but will be out of warranty in two-three months at my driving rate.
The service department of my dealership told me I would never need to buy anything to repair this truck. They were right all the way (now 4 years). Sad I can't make publicity for them, they deserve a solid reputation.
If the crankshaft sensor fails, you loose the tachometer and timing. If I remember well, there is no code in this instance.
If the timing belt fails, you get a dedicated code.
Have you tried to start the engine? You should be able to feel/hear the difference if the belt broke. The engine should not be able to be turned at a continuous pace.
I did try to start the engine. The starter did turn it over normally but it would not catch nor did it even try to catch. It seemed as if no fuel was getting to the engine. I tried this several times, each time the result was the same.
On a day trip through one of the Mark Twain national forests, diminished by farmsteads making the “forest” mostly only remotely visible, stopped at a local Quickie Mart and turned off the engine after a bit of turbo cool down. With the engine shut down the electric cooling fan continued to run. Don’t recall this ever happening before. Later returned to CRD and cooling fan was off. Engine started fine but overhead display showed blank lines on all reading but compass, temperature and distance to service. And, the air-conditioning refused to run even though the little light in the on-button was lit.
Drove 44 miles with no air and stopped again. Turned off the engine and cooling fan continued to run. Turned the switch to acc and back to off and the cooling fan stopped. Turned the switch to on and the computer came back. This time when getting back on the road the air worked fine.
Since the event I have been turning off the air-conditioning button prior to stopping the engine and the event has not repeated. Also, the transmission was shifting crudely and apparently back in learning mode - has since improved to normal.
Nescosmo....