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Is there anyone out there that loves their CRD? Are you happy you have it?
I replied with a yes to both questions.
Why are you responding to me with an angry face? :confuse:
The CRD is a pretty good car, but it has really shown that DCX (and it is DCX, not Cerberus Chrysler, that created it) really didn't give it the support it should have. My dealer has pretty good techs, but even though we're in a major market just 90 miles from Detroit itself, he has trouble getting parts in a reasonable time frame. I am very pleased with the mileage and power of the CRD, and it is a good vehicle in other respects too. But I do wonder about long term support, parts availability, and post-warranty repairs. For me it won't be too long before I sell it to someone who is in love with diesel (as several others here are, and I was in my first year of CRD ownership) and hopefully who has a bit more mechanical skills than I do, or closer proximity to a competent dealer (I now live 25 miles from the dealer I bought it from and still use for service). One of my biggest issues is the outrageous cost of dealer maintenance, like the $12.75 PER QUART they charged me for engine oil last time. If you can do maintenance yourself, this issue is pretty much eliminated, and parts should be easy to find online for quite a while.
After reading so many worried people's comments here and on several other forums, (sometimes the same people) I thought it was important to make my comments. Based upon my own experience on forums ranging from cars to string line trimmers I know they can create unnecessary anxiety. Heck, I needed a Prozac after buying a Stihl chainsaw and then finding a forum filled with people who had horrible experiences with the engines. (extremely rare) I have also been misled into buying the wrong product for my needs. Forums can be excellent for learning, for giving heads up, for providing creative solutions and new ideas as well as a sense of community etc.. but like any community, the truth can sometimes get a bit muddy and I think it is important to remind ourselves of that from time to time.
"Why are you responding to me with an angry face?"
I hit that button by mistake (it is right next to the smiling one)....but then thought it looked cute so left it. This one is cute too: :shades:
Further good experiences and things I like about both my CRDs: They burn 100% American-made biodiesel, Good turning radius, decent stereo with an actual nob for the volume, clean & functional dash layout, good ability to crawl over nasty terrain without revving the engine, good road view, easy to park in tight spots, fits my 6' frame perfectly, can tow my motorbike trailer. It is also the only available small 4X4 that can run on biodiesel. Then there is the child seat access: With my Subaru Outback (which I really liked) I had a choice of straining my back or bumping my kid's head when placing him into the car seat - that is no longer an issue in the CRD. Oh, did I mention the biodiesel thing? Close to being carbon-neutral, grown by Washington farmers, brewed and distributed by Washington companies - easily obtained.
Yep, all in all a pretty decent vehicle.
Transmission, 3 week lead time, still waiting.
torque converter (non F37)
flex plate (non F37)
transmission pump (non F37)
turbo charger assy
EGR
anti shudder valve
alternator
battery
fuel rail line (they broke it?)
Recalls-blower, rotors, ball joints
All this and 2 dealers have given up trying to repair this thing. This kind of problem is happening to the CRD in numbers that are NOT being posted on forums, I hope you never need parts as they will be hard to procure and become very expensive when the warranty runs out. As it is, things are hard to find, transmission $5000.00 and 3 week on dock.
Nescosmo...
Problems:
One transmission failure, fuel filter [non-permissible content removed]'y failure, EGR Flow Valve, Torque Converter recall, F37 and disconnecting the EGR valve. Last winter cold starting was difficult, I think that the glow plugs are not lighting after the engine starts, something I will have to play with.
I think it is starting to break in as the mileage has come up recently. Getting 24-26 now.
Since the EGR was disconnected it runs great, is quick off the line and has not died once.
If it will hold up like it does recently, I will run it until the wheels fall off and then glue them back on.
Overall I think :confuse:
Hope you CRD do better.
Nescosmo....
It does turn on the MIL unless you put a a relay & resistor on the intake temp sensor to fake out the PCM.
By doing this the engine will get noisier but smooth, the mileage will increase and the soot will end and the oil will clear like a gasser. In some state this is elegal because the Nox will increase but with the new ULSD maybe will not. THESE IS WHAT WE CALL THE ORM.......(Off road modification).
Nescosmo.
I am pleased that so many on the forum have had much better service than we did form our CRD. And to be honest the fact that some CRD have no problems and a good number do, that makes me ":MAD" at the factory that did not have consistent quality checks and more uniformity in th engines and the service persons. So enjoy your CRD but do not lump those with huge issues as making you ":mad"!!!
farout
Farout
When we use clean diesel fuel we can accidentally breathe our exhaust fumes without coughing, including when the ORM transformation is done.
Nowadays in countries where Common Rail Diesels are used the quality of air is getting better; this is mainly due to a clean combustion (absence of vaporized and unburned fuel) :sick:
People are sensitive to diesel particles because they rapidly feel lung irritation. The next step might be the filtration of our exhausts in populated areas.
I just changed my air filter for the first time - it was a bit overdue, but the filter wasn't as dirty as I had feared. Got a NAPA Gold replacement filter for about $14. Only problem was some dumb engineer decided to route the AC line directly over the filter housing, making it difficult to open enough to get the filter out.
If you have a workbench and metal vice it's really easy to do and you have a chance to inspect the gaskets for cleanliness. What I find most important is to have sufficient light.
But it runs better, does not pour out smoke off the line, and gets better mileage.
Therefore, I have improved the emissions by disconnecting faulty equipment.
Also, no one out here looks.
Disconnect the fuel hose, take the two screw out the fire wall, bring the filter up and take the wire off from the bottom fo the filter. Take a clean oil pan and take the bottom plug off, take an oil wrench and loose the filter, take the filter off, clean the filter housing with a clean rag in case there is some dirt or foreign materials. Take the new filter and take off the bottom white plug, put the plug that you took from the old filter and screw it on the new filter, put some oil or diesel fuel on the new filter gasket, screw the new filter in and after stop, give it a quarter turn more to the filter, go back to the truck and install the wire on the bottom of the filter, reinstall the filter on the fire wall, install the two fuel hoses.
Now the best way to do the fuel filling of the filter is:
Take the primer and pump it until you feel pressure then open the primer screw ( make sure that you put a rag under the primer screw) and open it, you will see air coming out, close the screw hole and pump again and do this until you see solid fuel coming out of the screw hole, close the screw, take the rag out and fire off the engine and you are done.
the job will take you about 30 minutes if you take your time.
Nescosmo
SemperFi06
Semperfi - I think the purpose of the EGR valve is to reduce NOx emissions by minimizing lean combustion. Lean combustion avoids smoke (particulates) but also increase NOx, the nasty cloying smell you get from diesels before 2000 or so, and a major air pollutant. I would have thought that limiting particulate was at least as important as limiting NOx, but I guess it didn't work out that way. I wonder if it's merely a sign that the EGR valve system doesn't work well in this setup. I have personally noticed less smoke since local stations switched to ULSD, and I also notice even less smoke if I'm running either "premium diesel" which is supposed to be higher cetane, or if I'm running B5-B20 biodiesel mixes.
Personally I'm going to put up with the EGR valve for now, but if I still have the vehicle post-warranty and have an EGR valve failure... well, I'm going to write down whatever resistor spec I need! I would think the EGR valve would be covered under the federal emissions warranty, which goes longer than the 3/36 and I think more miles than the 7/70 I have on a 2005. I know that when my original EGR failed around 25k miles, the CRD drove at least as well as usual, maybe slightly better, and apart from the annoying check engine light there was nothing wrong with it from a driver's perspective.
Thanks for the reply. I am able to fill up with B5 most of the time, and I have noticed that our CRD runs a little quieter and smoother than when I run on any other diesel. I also suspect it lubricates better than straight diesel, and may be part of the reason I haven't had an EGR failure.
SemperFi
If this came from a wiring or an ECU problem, you would get an error code. It seems your controller is just waiting for the boost pressure to build up.
Biodiesel has excellent lubricity and should be good for the fuel pump, as long as it isn't contaminated with water (which would be very bad for the fuel pump). The lubrication is irrelevant to EGR valve life, but the higher cetane and lower sulfur of biodiesel should reduce particulate, as you've noticed, and reduced particulate should help keep the EGR valve from clogging and failing. I have seen fewer posts lately about EGR failures, and I think the availability of ULSD since last fall may be the primary reason. Isn't owning a test market car fun?
Nescosmo....
addresses the potential problem with lubricity.
The site is: http://www.ethosfr.com/ScientificLinks/Lubricity_CanolaBasedFuel.html
I have been using the canola additive but my numbers don't
show a significant increase in mileage.
With low sulphur diesel in Europe for quite some time
I am wondering if the fuel pumps supplied have been
modified to address the lubrication problems or
would the additive be a good measure?
Getting 1 litre (1000 ML)for $12 and only uses 75ML per tank
No bio around British Columbia that I have seen. Talk
about the far north.... eh?
regards,
SemperFi
2. I live in MN and have started my CRD on the first try without plugging it in at -22F. I normally plug it in when it goes below -10F just to be nice to it.
3. Day after Loveland Pass, I entered Death Valley National Park. It was 111F at 200 feet below sea level. I discovered that I had not had the TSB done to recalibrate the temp gauge. The vehicle never overheated but the needle climbed. Took a 4x4 only trail from bottom of the Valley to Campground, up a rutted rocky trial to 8100 Feet. No problem. The torque in that little 2.8 was .
4. I don't know anything about the ORM
5. I lose 20% mileage in winter but haven't a clue how to change that. With fuel for where I live reformulated for winter to flow and burn at temperatures to -40F, I suspect the winter blend is the culprit.
Love my CRD!
My CRD starts right up down to -10 outside (and unplugged) but it runs rough for the first several minutes. For the first 30 seconds it sounds like it may not even be firing on all cylinders.
Winter blended diesel has a proportion of #1 diesel which has about 15% less energy content. Combine that with more short trips and more time with the engine below its operating temperature and a 20% loss of mileage is no real surprise. I only lose about 10-15% of mpg in winter, but I have a longish commute (20 miles) and our Michigan winters are milder than Minnesota.
What is a reasonable expectation for city & highway FE numbers?
Is towing 4500-5500 lbs a reasonable event with the CRD?
If I buy one used should I expect the tranny to fail within ??k miles?
I like diesels but don't want to buy something with poor reliability.
Thanks.
KP
Last winter it did not want to start below the teens.
It acts like the glow plugs do not heat after the engine fires. If plugged in-no problems.
I am waiting for the weather to cool so I can run some tests. I may put in a manual glow plug switch for cold weather starts.
What else can you ask.
Depends on if you are a lead foot or not. I live in the metro Washington D.C. area and get 21 to 23 MPG commuting. On the open road, 28 to a touch over 30 MPG (if I keep it under 65 MPH).
Is towing 4500-5500 lbs a reasonable event with the CRD?
Maximum towing capacity is 5000 pounds. Tow more at your own risk.
If I buy one used should I expect the tranny to fail within ??k miles?
Depends on how well the original owner cared for it and if the original owner subjected the trans to any abuse. I am expecting at least 100K before I think about rebuilding.
I like diesels but don't want to buy something with poor reliability.
As some have stated in this forum, there are some who have had lots of aggravation with their CRDs and they tend to be quite vocal about it. I have had good luck with my CRD. A big plus is that I have a really good dealer to help me out. If you buy a used CRD, make sure you have a very competent dealer/tech to help you in the event you have issues. Also, consider purchasing an extended warranty for piece of mind.
I do not know if to buy the D or the E. The load range E is stronger, do I need a tire like that, will the ride be harder than the range D, will the E last longer. What do you think....
Nescosmo.
It cost about $75.00 and there is a list going on now, If you want to be in let me know and i will tell you how to get there....
Nescosmo...
I've finished my job but there is a price to pay concerning the transmission as well: the silent blocks of my front differential are worn and I get a CLINK-CLONK sound when I rotate the drive shaft. I use all the power available from my truck but during short periods. This is my main argument for using Light Truck rated tires. But the drive line is not Light Truck rated :sick:
The tread width of the REVO 235x65x16 is not wider than that of the BFG A/T 225x75x16. Over here, SUV owners who have REVOs don't leave the pavement much. They should be good quiet tires for equivalent people :P
I was going to trip the glowplug relay manually to keep from frying things.
I know there has been several discussions on the forums regarding this problem. Did DC ever resolve the problems?
I'm in the middle of of a cross country trip pulling a 3500lb trailer to the Nevada desert. I'm having to turn on the heater wide open to help cool the engine, no AC and OD turned off...still climbs into the red...no chime...no transmission overheating light. It's been a very stressful trip having to watch the temp gauge like a hawk.
the Needle has stayed in the middle on flat drives except crossing the Salt Flats where it climbed slightly passed center, but pulling some serious 5% grades it went into the red pretty quickly
I'm completely over this Jeep and seriously considering ditching it for something else. My dealer's service dept is the worse I have ever dealt with...completely clueless. My Jeep has spent WEEKS in the shop and I've only had it since Sept 2005.
I have had problems with glow plugs going out. tail light bulbs blowing and signal circuit board problems. The service guys have broke parts that have taken weeks to replace. I'm at my wits end with this vehicle and my dealer. I have drove Jeeps all my life..every automobile I have owned and I'm 45...4 jeeps total. I was thrilled to get a diesel model...but it has given more headaches than all my others combined.
If I could use the Lemon law I would in heartbeat. I'm contacting my attorney when I get home to see what i can do.
....But in the meantime...anybody got any suggestions or updates on this overheating problem? :lemon: