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Comments
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Todd C.
Houston,Texas
I see you've been working with somebody already to get this looked into - was it one of our GM dealerships? If so, we'd be happy to follow up on this for you. Please let us know!
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Now the motot starts, when it goes in Drive or reverse, The motor just stops and dies out. I can restart it and it Idles Fine in park
The minute it goes to Park, Dead it goes
Help !
Any solutions the dealer seems to to be out of them and my warranty is expiring soon.
Thank you for taking the time to post your concerns. I would recommend speaking with your dealer of choice to try to diagnosis your concerns. If you need assistance locating dealers near you please feel free to email me with your zip code and I am happy to locate dealers in your area. I look forward to hearing from you!
Christina
GM Customer Service
SocialMedia@GM.com
I'm sorry to hear that your radio concern has been so difficult for your dealership to repair. Have you ever established a Service Request on this issue through Customer Assistance? If not, please send the following information to us at socialmedia@gm.com: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership. A brief summary of your concern would also be helpful as sometimes it can be difficult to match up emails with forum posts.
Kind regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
thanks so much for your time and help!!!
1. the gas gauge went out in 2010
2. the car will stall at a stop light or drive through
3. the oil gauge went out April 2012
4. the truck is now idling low June 11, 2012
5. the speedometer went out June 22, 2012
I've taken my car to the dealership on two different occasions and they have told me that as it relates to the car stalling, they have no idea what is causing it. As far as the gauges are concerned I would have to have the instrument cluster replaced and it would cost me approximately $800. I took it to another shop last week and they told me I need a new ENGINE! This is my only means of transportation and I can not afford to replace the engine and have the instrument cluster fixed and whatever else is wrong with it. I have read many posts regarding this same problem and I'm curious to why GM has not had a recall for this problem? It is extremely hard for people to support "American made" if we don't take care of our "OWN!" I would appreciate any help you can provide me with this matter.
Thank you in advance.
My VIN# 1GNDS13S452119817
Mileage-141K (It was less than that when I took it)
Chevy Dealer-3707 West Colonial, Orlando, Florida
I can't speak for the stalling issue, but for the others they are most likely due to bad steeper motors in the instrument panel. You can have it rebuilt for around $240.00 on eBay... They require a deposit of $200.00 until you send them your old one back. They do excellent work and have a quick turnaround.
It is much better than the $800.00 the dealer wants..Good luck!!!
I know all this because I had the same problem with my 2005 Yukon XL.
Thank you for getting in touch with us here on the forum. While given the age and mileage of the vehicle we cannot promise any results up front, we are still willing to look into this situation further. Please send the following information to us at socialmedia@gm.com: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership (I realize you provided some of this information here, but it helps us match an incoming email with a post in the forum).
Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
TTT Family
Thank you for taking time to provide your feedback. Thank you for your loyalty. Do you still own the 1999? What about the 2004? I look forward to hearing from you. Please feel free to email me directly with any questions comments or concerns. Have a great weekend!
Christina
GM Customer Service
SocialMedia@GM.com
The last thing I'm going to do is pay a GM tech to guess at the solution. It's sad that a 60 thousand dollar vehicle just won't start....but not nearly as sad as a company which sees multiple happenstance of a problem with their product and makes no effort to mitigate the problem for their customers.
I still own 99 Yukon, it is my first big truck that I am in love with and just want to keep it for fun, my 2010 Yukon VIN 1GKUxxxxxxxx2696 which is Certified and Major Guard protection plan with GMC, I am enjoying it, if any one complain about GMC, think about Toyota or Lexus or even Mercedes is no difference, I own 07 LX470 as well as 08 ML350, Denali is much better car and better design, feel the difference internal cheap material in the Toyota, special Honda. or if you think about Mercedes/Toyota being built in US or mexico instead of import from Japan or German....etc, they are no difference than GMC, things break down and life goes on.
My 2003 Denali sat (unfortunately) for approximately 2+ years (maybe 2 years, 3 months) without moving. It was recently towed (flatbed) and then towed again to a mechanic my father (not me) has been going to for years.
I asked him to replace the battery (which I provided) as well as make sure it was ready to run after sitting for 2+ years. He did not mention lubing the o-rings or priming the cylinders (cranking without ignition) before, draining the 2+ year-old gas, etc., etc., ... which had me feeling dubious about his expertise and/or "caring" from the get go.
Anyway, he came back to me a couple of days later saying that the fuel lines were corroded and it is leaking all over the place. I found that quite hard to believe considering the Denali had ZERO leaks (not a spot below it from where it was towed -- either time). I mentioned this to him and he said the stuff their adding to the salt during the winter has caused a great number of these to show up over the last year or two. The thing is, again this car sat (part of that time in a driveway) and was not driven in the snow, and the real kicker is, my area has seen little to no snow over the last two years.
So am I just out of my league here, or is he potentially full of it? I would really appreciate any insight someone with knowledge in this area could share.
Thanks,
Tim
Anyone else had this problem?????
We're sorry that you're having some elusive difficulties with your Yukon. If you would like for us to check into this further with your dealership, please email more details to us us at socialmedia@gm.com including: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Thanks in advance!
I have an 05 as well.. The air condenser sweats when running and the condensation is what is dripping.. This is completely normal. As long as your air is cold and it is humid outside then this will occurs.
You may see this from the rear as well if you run the back AC often.
Hope this helps.
If you would like for us to check in on the situation with your dealership, please send us an email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Have you had this checked into by your dealership? If so we're available to follow up on your appointment with them. Let us know! We can be contacted at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, a summary of the situation, and the name of your dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Now for the 2003 Yukon. Mirrors do not adjust anymore, they will fold in and out but that is it, Passenger mirror does not defrost nor dim at night. Driver side does defrost and dim. Driver seat heat stopped working. Driver seat controls for fwd and back now work in reverse. So, to move the seat forward, you have the push the power seat button back etc.
I see there is a recall on my cluster because my gear selector and Tachometer do not light up. My Speedometer works 75% of the time. I use a Garmin GPS to monitor the correct speed.
Last week I had the transfer case rebuilt (pump vibrated a hole through the rear casing which is known for 2001-2006 trucks and SUVs). Trucks.com show even has a video out showing how the problems occurs and GM knew that is why the 2007 transfer case was redesigned... I also had the rear u-joints on the axle replaced do to vibration coming from the rear. Then I had the rear axle balance. I towed a boat today (3500-4000 lbs) which is the first real load since the transfer case, u-joints and axle were fixed and the truck vibrates like crazy from 35 mph up to 70 mph. I had the trailer/tow on and off to test and I was in 2 wheel drive. This is the same vibration I had on the 99' Suburban. I have 150,000 miles on the Yukon and we do not beat on this vehicle. We use to tow boats, snowmobiles and our 3 kids and 2 dogs. But why so many problems? Seriously? Any input on the mirror issues, the driver seat heater and/or severe vibration under load? We took a ride tonight with the whole family inside and the vibration is not there....I am really stump, do I have a lemon? :lemon:
Circuit/System Description
There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON.
System voltage is more than 5.23 volts.
The powertrain relay is commanded ON.
DTC P1682 runs continuously.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The ECM detects that the voltage level difference is greater than 3 volts between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits for less than 1 second.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
DTC P1682 is a Type A code.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
DTC P1682 is a Type A code.
Diagnostic Aids
This test procedure requires that the vehicle battery has passed a load test and is completely charged. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test See: Starting and Charging\Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Battery Inspection/Test
Special Tools
J 35616
Circuit/System Verification
Important: On the scan tool, the powertrain relay is referred to as the EC ignition relay.
If DTCs P0685, P0689, or P0690 are set, diagnose those DTCs first.
Ignition ON, engine OFF, observe both the Ignition 1 Voltage signal and the EC Ignition Relay Feedback signal parameters on the scan tool. Both parameter values should display no more than 3 volts difference between the 2 parameters.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
Circuit/System Testing
Important: You must perform the Circuit/System Verification before proceeding with Circuit/System Testing.
Testing the Ignition 1 Signal Circuit
Important: A resistance of 5 ohms or greater in the circuit will cause the DTC to set.
Ignition ON, verify that B+ is available to both test points of the fuse from the powertrain relay to the ECM.
If B+ is only available on one test point of the fuse, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit from the fuse to the ECM for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
If B+ is not available on either test point of the fuse, replace the underhood fuse block.
Ignition OFF, disconnect the ECM C1 connector.
Ignition ON, verify that B+ is available at C1-19.
If B+ is not available, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance condition. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
If all circuits test normal, replace the ECM.
Testing the EC Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit
Important: A resistance of 5 ohms or greater in the circuit will cause the DTC to set.
Ignition OFF, remove the powertrain relay from the underhood fuse block.
Ignition ON, connect a 3A fused jumper wire from B+ to the powertrain ignition 1 voltage circuit terminal. Verify that the EC Ignition Relay Feedback parameter displays B+ on the scan tool.
If the scan tool parameter is less than the specified value, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance or short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
Repair Instructions
Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification See: Verification Tests
Relay Replacement (Attached to Wire Harness) Relay Replacement (Within an Electrical Center)
Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement
Engine Control Module Replacement
Engine Control Module Programming and Setup (GAS)
If you would like for us to check into anything further for you regarding this, please don't hesitate to contact us via email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation so far).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
If you would like for us to document this situation through customer service, we'd be happy to do so. Please contact us via email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
fuel pressure regulator and pump. Any further tests to solve this issue would be greatly appreciated . Thanks
1) November, replaced battery (Dealer covered, but at 39K miles?)
2) November, CD/DVD player internal optical head moves when key is off and sitting. I noticed it early one morning when I opened the door.
Dealer said this could be normal. I don't buy it.
3) January (ish), Turn signal audible notification quit working, 1/2 radio speakers (only front) quit working intermittently.
4) March, hooked up boat trailer for the first time and brake lights on trailer did not work. Had to replace another computer. Replaced a $700 dollar computer.
5)June, Service AirBag Message is now displaying.
6)June, Volt guage reading 15+ volts.
Is this to be expected? I can't honestly think that this is common. If so very poor quality if there is nothing else going on?
Any thoughts or experiences with this year/make/model?
Purchased brand new, all service work completed from dealership. We have had major service work $$$. Takes a week or so for the Service Dept. to determine the problems. After reading this Forums - You would think they would be up front about how often these problem are.
Replaced Battery's -
Steering Column replacement
Rack & pinion assembly
Transfer case bearing
Front Differential
A/C motor Diverter
And in the morning it will be towed to the dealership cause of ELECTRICAL issues. Completely dead..... Nothing works. It's not the Battery! It can not be jumped.
Just wanted to let you know