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gh
It got worse and the 2nd time they greased it which worked for about 1 week.
Now it is in the 3rd time and they told me that is normal noise that the vehicle makes and will only grease it.
I don't think a noise that sounds like someone rear ended you is normal.
Hopefully you have looked at "charlie4runner's" responses. He wrote one to me on January 31, 2007 which I plan on utilizing when I one MORE FRIGGEN time approach Toyota on getting this problem corrected once and for all. Charlie4runner gives very pertinent and extensive information on correcting this problem since he had the same issue.
I just cannot believe that Toyota had my vehicle for a week and still didn't correct the problem. Stick to your guns. This is a real problem that Toyota is obligated to correct.
:lemon:
Please consult a factory trained mechanic before replacing the original shock absorbers with a different type. The curve stability could be significantly reduced by the wrong set. If you check your shock absorbers the bad ones will show a little oil smear at the lower segment, a good sign to watch.
I check my shock absorbers by pushing down hard at each corner of the truck, if the rebound is "out of order" - I would replace all of them. If the rebound is OK, the problem is in the tire pressure.
A bad shock absorber would create scalloping (little dents) on one of the tire's running surface; in case of the 4Runner and Landcruiser the right hand side will go first.
Try to contact our host, "Steve", he always provides reliable advice! =Andrew
There was a great post here that got lost in the archives that I used to link to all the time. Maybe because some guy in Northern Idaho wrote it, plus he drove a Subaru.
Anyway the poster had worked as a car designer or engineer for Lexus iirc (and maybe some other outfit).
The upshot of his shocks/struts post was that the manufacturer spent a lot of time and money designing a shock specifically for the make/model and even the trim line for that make/model. The aftermarket places would design one or two shocks and try to make them fit a variety of applications and that a "universal" fit shock would never work as well as the one custom tuned for the car. So his suggestion was that you always stick with OEM shocks (unless you were going to do a lift perhaps).
Some companies do test their shocks to match a specific system - Old Man Emu supposedly does. Don't know about Bilsteins.
There's more over in the Shocking! Talk Shocks here! discussion too.
My final fix was a Lexus drive shaft. I belive it was a LExus G470 shaft that finally fixed it.
I read about it on the Lexus forum at another web site.
If you can believe thi. When I told my Dealer about the possible fix with a Lexus Drive shaft, He said " You Don't Hvae a Lexus" Duhh! I know that you wanta-be-Japanese Moron.
Anyways, the District Rep allowed him to swap the shaft.
The cluck feeling has completely disappeared. Believe me.
Good Luck- Insist they do it, especially since they can't think of any other good reason why the vehicle would do this. It is not normal!
1. How much was the part in Can $?
2. Was it hard to find and did you have to wait on it?
3. You had the dealer do the swap, correct?
I am sick and tired of the clunk and I have heard that this fix works from others as well. If you get around to it, please answer the questions. My email is rowe0075@d.umn.edu.
Thanks Charlie,
Matt.
Your email didnot work.
I belive the part was approx. $600 CDN. It was all covered under warranty. I've lived with the problem, a year after getting the vehicle.
It only take 10 min. to change the part
Anyway, I thought it couldn't be covered under warranty. I spose you sweet talked the dealer. But in any case, I'm going to start looking for one, I've heard the part is hard to find right now.
Thanks Charlie, for the info.
BTW, I can't get anyone here in the states to cover this under warranty or even do the swap. According to the brainless service advisors, the parts aren't compatible and may void my warranty. What??? What a bunch of idiots. Like they could tell if the driveshaft is Lexus or not.
From the manual - '99 4Runner 4WD "Use a grease gun to apply multi-purpose grease to the No. 1, 2, 3, 7 and 8 grease fittings. Apply molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No. 2, to the No. 4, 5 and 6 grease fittings (double cardan joint)."
Then I have bad regulation problems, with this I mean, brakes are too sensitive, to the point that it’s hard to slow down smoothly and this worsen when the pulsing problem is going on. When I sandpaper drums and pads, braking is nice and adjustable as needed.
And the other “problem” or “doubt” (I don’t know) I have is a horrible braking on wet floor, the ABS go off too fast, I could say The 4 Runner is unstoppable on wet floor in comparison with the Camry. Is this normal? Is it normal that a 4 door sedan brakes a lot better than a SUV or is this related to the others problems I have? Are all this problems related?
I hope some of you have the answer to this?
Thanks a lot
-rob
I'd have to say all your problems are related to one thing...the rear brakes.
It sounds as though the person who resurfaced your drums didn't know what he/she was doing.
When resurfacing drums or rotors for that matter, it needs to be done slow and with many cuts taking the least amount of material off per cut.
Poorly cut drums can and will cause a multitude of problems, just the ones you described. Sounds like you have deep cuts in your drums. When you clean the shoes up with sandpaper, you remove the uneven marks left on the shoes and then it's fine for a while, until they "seat" again the problem reoccurs.
If your drums are within specs, they might be able to be cut again...hopefully by another shop that knows what they are doing.
If not, just replace the drums, clean up the shoes and adjust to specs.
Good luck!
Thanks a lot for answering me, and for your reference the shop that resurfaced the drums is Meineke. They do brakes, maybe they don’t want to do just drums, or I don’t know, maybe they just had a bad day with my drums.
What I wonder is, if I did right with the shoes adjustment. What I did was closing them up to the minimum gap possible, avoiding that they touch the drum.
Thanks again.
Sounds like you adjusted them properly. I usually adjust them till the wheel "locks up" then back them off till there is no drag.
I posted this, but probably in the wrong place. I've an '03 4-Runner Limited whose dash temp gauge says it's 94 outside when it's really 110. Does anyone know where the external sensor is, and how to fix the problem?
Thanks,
Ray
When I come to compete stop it jerks forward like transmission is not disconnected. Do you experience the same problem?
Does anyone out there know the procedure to change the programing to be able to unlock all the doors with one click of the remote instead of having to press the remote button twice?
Also has anyone had success with the latest TSB where Toyota changes the driver seat frame to allivate the rocking problem and the noise the rocking makes when rounding a corner?