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Most auto stores will scan and give you a readout for free. It should tell you whether it is the front or rear sensor. Both are about the same cost and time to repair.
If you are not able to do it yourself you are at the mercy of the crooks. Maybe you can fine a local mechanic that is more reasonable. These sensors last about 100K miles or so, sometimes less. I replaced one in my Outback at 75K. This business of doubling the retail cost of the part for the job is ridiculous. Parts costs have nothing to do with labor costs especially with all the technology in cars today.
A smart mechanic could make a lot of money on these jobs cutting into the dealers ripoff prices! Good luck.
This didn't start until after I had some sort of oxygen sensor replaced (can't remember exactly what it was). After that I had a guy check it out and he hooked up the computer to it and said I needed to replace the throttle position sensor. Did that and no change. Had the Toyota dealer check it out and they say that I have the wrong spark plugs (have single ground, need double ground) and after-market plug wires that should be replaced. Also said I have an oil leak in one of the gaskets.
Could the spark plugs be what's causing the skipping? Any other thoughts? Thanks.
Also, the truck has a dull whining on acceleration and while idling, all fluids are full and clean. The Power Steering was low and i filled it, the noise isnt as noticable, but still there. Could this be the problem? Thank you!
My 1994 4Runner has 250,000 miles on it and I'm at the point now where i can keep it running but as soon as i fix one part, something else wears out. Here's how it started.....
I began noticing a constant ticking in the engine that sounded metal tapping on metal. The ticking sped up as the RPMs increased when i accelerated, and over the course of a couple of months it gradually got louder and more persistent, even at a mere idle.
As the ticking got worse, the engine started to lope when i accelerated. The RPMs jumped around while I accelerated and it felt like it was sluggish, skipping and misfiring and such.
Then, I was passing a Semi on the interstate using moderate acceleration and i heard a loud (ping?) under the hood and the ticking stopped completely, but then i noticed an immediate loss in horsepower. Thankfully, I reached my exit and made it home. I had been driving at highway speeds for about 2 hours at that point.
The next morning, after the engine cooled and the overnight temperature dropped into the 40's I tried to drive it again. It started right up, but the engine sounded horrible, like there were rocks banging around under the hood, and it was backfiring all over the place. I tried to accelerate and with the pedal to the floor it only wanted to go about 5 mph and it was barely able to accelerate at all.
The exhaust was thick and blue, and a neighbor (who seemed like he knew a thing or two) said he could tell by the smell of gas in the exhaust that it was an ignition problem.
I'm not sure if I've been describing symptoms of multiple problems, or if they're all related to one central issue. Also, I own the Hayne's Repair manual for this vehicle, but I am young and I only have basic toolbox tools, not mechanic's tools, and I don't even know where to start in the troubleshooting section because of all the symptoms. I was hoping someone out there could tell me where to check first for an issue, and whether or not anyone else has had this same problem.
I drive this 4Runner everywhere I need to go, including school and work, so a timely response to my post would be greatly appreciated so I can begin working on it.
Thanks Y'all
If these are not helpful, you need a knowledgeable mechanic. Maybe your neighbor can help with this as well. Royallen
I'll share the electronic problem.
Note that I first discovered an enormous coffee stain all over the instrument panel.
Basically, the lights on the climate control part of the control panel (the knobs and indicators for defrost, vent, recirc, etc.) don't work. And neither do the lights on the strip next to the shifter knob ( P R D 1 2). And neither does the "cigar lighter". The light in the ash tray doesn't work either. And neither does the light in the glove box.
The stereo works and so does the AC switch. And, all the lights on the right hand instrument panel ( MPH, coolant temp, etc.) work as well.
Any advice about troubleshooting and repair?
Thanks!
Solving problems beyond replacing a single failed bulb or two or blown fuse are likely to be beyond most owners ability unless you have the wiring diagram and considerable expertise or it involves something you installed like trailer wiring. Royallen
I am also close to needing new tires, a new battery, an oil change and new air filter. All of these items will run somewhere between $2,500 -$3,000.
I looked at replacing the 4Runner (thinking BMW X5 diesel) and have been offered $10,500 on a trade, which I think is close to fair (with tax savings that makes the vehicle worth $11,235 towards the purchase of the new car).
This 4Runner has been my absolute favorite car, ever. Other than routine maintenance, I have had no problems and have put no money into this vehicle. However, I am reluctant to pay the equivalent of 25% of the value of the vehicle just to maintain an 8 year old car with close to 90,000 miles.
With this in mind, is it time to say good by to my beloved 4Runner ("Daddy's Blue Truck") or should I do the maintenance and hope that I continue to experience the same go anywhere in any weather reliability that I have experienced over the past 8 years?
If you like it, I'd keep it.
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My 1998 4runner has 138000 miles and lately the shif handle it rattle a lot while I'm driving.
If I hold it with my hand the noise stop, is there any way that I could fixed my self?
Thanks.
Does anyone know which fuse controls these functions?