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This worked! I loosened the nuts to finger tight then backed off 1 turn. Drove backwards maybe 20 feet, braked, then forwards and I heard the wheels break free on the forward stop. I put synthetic grease on the rotor face before putting the wheels back on.
Thanks for the tip.
The mechanic says that they are fine & it would be a waste of money to change them. It has been some years since it was last done.I do not want to get stuck.
This may be helpful to you:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may/TECH2TEC.HTM
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I don't think so.
3.3 liter 6 cylinder with 12 valves
transmission: auto
Mileage 125k
Problem: Engine service light is on. I took it to autozone to be check for the error code and it came back with no error code. Do I need to just reset the light and if so how do I?
You can buy those readers relatively cheaply now (30-100 bucks, depending on the model), so I'd suggest either picking up one yourself, or taking it to a different parts store to have them try reading the code for you and then resetting it. If you really don't have an error code, then I'm guessing the first guy some how reset it without reading it, and your error will clear in a couple of weeks (assuming don't have any additional errors). If there is no underlying error, and your light stays on two weeks, then go get it read again to find the error that came back.
Call them for prices, they can tell you over the phone exactly how much the new key will cost, and the programming. I had extra spares made for my Toyo couple months ago.
If you are going to go to all the trouble to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, I would seriously consider putting in a new pump, rather than one from a vehicle with 60K miles on it.
You don't need to disconnect the battery, just have the key off. As for de-pressurizing anything... well... its gonna de-pressurize it's self the second you pull a fuel line loose, you just don't want it to de-pressurize the fuel right into your eye
So, find a fuel line section that you can crack loose in a controlled manner to let it vent. You should put a new fuel filter on with a new pump, so a good place to loosen the line might be at the filter.
I hope you can help me here. The other day I set off for work, leaving my
husband in the house watching the TV as usual. I hadn't gone more than a
mile down the road when my engine conked out and the car shuddered to
a halt.
I walked back home to get my husband's help. When I got home I couldn't
believe my eyes. He was in the bedroom with a neighbor lady making mad
passionate love to her. I am 63, my husband is 65 and we have been
married for thirty eight years.
When I confronted him, he tried to make out that he went into the back
yard and heard a lady scream, had come to her rescue but found her
unconscious. He'd carried the woman back to our house, laid her in bed,
and began CPR.
When she awoke she immediately began thanking him and kissing him and
he was attempting to break free when I came back. But when I asked him
why neither of them had any clothes on, he broke down and admitted that
he'd been having an affair for the past six months.
I told him to stop or I would leave him. He retired from his job eleven
months ago and he says he has been feeling increasingly depressed and
worthless.
I love him very much, but ever since I gave him the ultimatum he has
become increasingly distant. I don't feel I can get through to him
anymore.
Can you please help?
Sincerely, Linda
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Linda,
A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a
variety of faults. Start by checking that there is no debris in the fuel line.
If it is clear, check the clips holding the vacuum lines onto the intake manifold
for vacuum leaks. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the
fuel pump itself is faulty, causing low delivery pressure to the fuel injectors.
I hope this helps & Merry Christmas,
Ted
V6 & 3.3L
Auto
95,000
Problem: The front fan won't work most of the time. Also, the headlights warning "ding" won't work most of the time. Also, the intermintent wiper control doesn't work all of the time. I think it's a relay, but not for certain. I've had the alternator replace since this problem started. Anyone think it is a relay? Also, is there anyway to determine which relay without taking it to a dealer and paying (overpaying) to hook up the diagnostic computer? Thanks for any help?
I have a 2000 Altima, 4 cylinder, with 65K miles. Local mechanic says I need a new Oxygen sensor. How long can I go without making this repair.
Thanks,
-- Brian
If the mixture is running too lean, then the engine cylinder valves will burn. If the mixture is too rich, the catalytic converter will clog. Both of those jobs are multiple hundreds of dollars to repair.
How long? unknown what the mixture ends up as, as well as how many miles you put on your vehicle under what operating conditions.
-- Brian
Each socket wall would be thicker and stronger, to withstand the impact action. They typically would be 1/2" drive (the size of the square at the end, the size of the ratchet handle, and the size of the extensions).
A normal non-impact socket set would be typically 3/8" drive, smaller sets would be 1/4" drive, and larger heavy duty sockets would be 1/2" drive.
If you have a 3/8" socket set and he brings over his 1/2" sockets, you are out of luck.
Been there, done that.
Goodyear belts by length
Have you looked to see if the path works to just leave out the compressor? No interference? You might check a book to see if the no compressor option was available for your year and motor; there might be a belt length listed already at the parts stores. Otherwise try using a cord around the pulleys and moving the tensioner to its proper place in its travel to measure.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Just line them up side by side and you'll see what I mean.
I suppose on low power you could get away with it but sooner or later you're going to bust one sure as _____.