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At the private shop, the technician hooked up a SnapOn computer to watch while we drove around. He saw a maximum of 56 degreses of advance (that sounds like A LOT to me) but it never pinged at all during the test drive. He also saw the computer dial in some retard based on the knock sensors hearing predetonation. So that sounds to me like the knock sensors do work and the computer *is* responding.
So - I searched the forum expecting to find a lot of stories about ping but found little related to my situation. Has anyone else had this problem, and has anyone else had the problem *fixed*? It sort of sounds to me like a situation in which the computer is getting conflicting sensor readings - it *has* to be able to hear the pinging - *anyone* could hear it (I am not talking about subtle in any way) - so I wonder what else would be calling for too much advance and why the computer would choose to ignore the knock sensor inputs. I'm speculating here and may be completely wrong but want to try to spark some conversation. If there are any experts out there on the Suburban engine control computer, please I beg you, offer some advice :-)
A couple of things *seem* to alleviate the problem - one is to put super in the tank (I run Shell or 76 regular in CA which means 87 octane). But the dealer has flat out told me that I should *NOT* have to put super in the tank. The other thing that *seemed* to fix the problem for awhile was to buy a bottle of Techroline (spelling?) but the fact is that it may well have been cooler out after I put in the cleaner so the cleaner may really have had no effect at all.
Thanks in advance for any possible help,
Jeff
MAF measuring sensor wires can get dirty and lead to wrong readings. These small wires can be cleaned but I can't tell you what solvent to use. Rubbing alcohol perhaps?
MAF probably also has intake temperature sensor built-in to it like my '04 Tahoe has. Too high temperature reading would also lead to higher compression pressure than what computer calculates and cause the problem. Perhaps your problem is with the temp sensor as you say it seems to be temperature related.
A simple reason for trouble could also bee bad connection in the MAF wire harness.
--Arrie--
Anyway, I like your idea and it makes sense so I'll follow up with the shop.
Anyone else have any other ideas? Has anyone had this problem and had the dealer solve the problem? If so, what did they do?
Thanks,
Jeff
You can do this yourself too if you want to invest a $110 or so. You can purchase a CarChip data logger. It is a small data logger that connects to the diagnostic port in your car and you can select from about 10 parameters to monitor while you drive. To look at the data you need a computer.
I bought my CarChip from AutoZone.
--Arrie--
To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.
You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.
To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!
Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
It has 146,000 miles and it was "Serviced" at a vo-tech place w/ no records. What work/ service would you do on it now?
Paid $5000.00
Thanks...ed
Norm
When the car is placed in Park, all of my locks are supposed to open. However, the only one that opens is the driver’s side door. I have to manually open the front and rear passenger doors. My rear hatch does not have a manual opening from the inside and no key hole to open it from the outside. The only way the rear hatch can be opened is electronically, which is not working.
Do you think that there is a short after the drivers lock and before the next lock?
Also, you can set up through the DIC whether you want one, all, or none of the doors to unlock when put into park. Are you sure the setting hasn't been changed?
Did you ever find out what the problem was? I just bought a 2003 LT and could have typed that exact message. Thanks in advance for your help.
Any ideas on where to start to look for a problem?
2007 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL/Cadillac Escalade ESV
07 Suburban Vibration Problems
07 suburban.tv mod?can i play movie while driving?
I think there's another 07 specific Suburban discussion or two in the list (see them all by clicking on "Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe" in the You Are Here list at the top.
And if that doesn't work for you, sure, we can start one that only says "2007 Suburban."
Well I have fixed most of the problem, with my interior lights.
There is a fuse (actually 2 or 3) in the interior fuse box on the side of the dash on drivers side, labed TBC.
TBC stands for truck body controls, and could mean a great number of things. At any rate once I learned of it I pulled the relevent fuses and sure enough I had one out.
This fixed 85% of the problem. The main dome light between the first and 2nd rows still does not work, (I plan to check to connections, but haven't had a chance.) I honestly forgot to even check about the underhood light. I hope this helps, and sorry I took so long to get back to ya. CATAM.
Any ideas or things to check?
Thanks, MikeB
Also check the vacuum actuator, I'd bet you have a leak somewhere, just find it, and fix or replace the leaking part.
I have recently acquired an '88 GMC Suburban, who runs wonderfully, but be it 50 feet or 50 miles it eventually gets very weak, engine light pops on and bam she dies. I've changed plug wires, inline fuel filter, and am getting ready to change the distributor cap, but any suggestions as to what is causing this would be much appreciated as I'm beyond baffled at this point and ready to sell the thing for scrap!
Getting that out of the way, it still hurts the consumer. In many cases 2003+ models have an available upgrade through OnStar now (installed by dealerships) to fix the OnStar problem. But it also requires some sort of commitment to OnStar for at least a year (not up to date on the exact plan there). In other words, if you're willing to pay for a year or more in advance (even getting whatever special rate is in effect- so it's not costing any extra, just costing up front), you may be able to get your system upgraded at your dealership.
And for those thinking of trying to swap out their own system for one from a junked vehicle, it is likely possible. I've read of other people successfully doing just this with their own vehicles.
Good luck!
Also, do you mean the actual in dash buttons/switch, or the actual actuator on the transfer case?
thanks again for the info.
Can anyone verify this?
Thanks!
Randy