Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I got one on the internet for my wife's 2004 and the site specified which year I could order. Here's free "how to program" instructions: programyourremote
Castech is the manufacturer for the cylinder heads that can have a defect that shows up as a porosity leak and even a small crack (in the cylinder head). "ALL DATA" recommends replacing the cylinder heads, i.e., $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 (estimate) while GM shows no remorse or responsibility. If you have direct contacts with the GM reps, let me know the feed-back you get.
Thanks
I had the same experience with my 2004 Z-71 Tahoe back in June of this year. There were no visible signs of leaks or drips from gaskets or the water pump. After being jacked around by the the GM dealer that I bought the Tahoe from and being told that I needed to spend between $3,500.00 - $5,000.00 for new cylinder heads, I took it over to an independent mechanic and he went on-line to a website called "ALL DATA on Line" which appears to be a pay site & bam, there it was: "Engine - Coolant Loss With No Visible Leaks" This problem is not isolated to to Chevy Tahoes. Appears to effect several GM models and even Saabs from 2001-2006.
Castech is the manufacturer for the cylinder heads that can have a defect that shows up as a porosity leak and even a small crack (in the cylinder head). "ALL DATA" recommends replacing the cylinder heads, i.e., $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 (estimate) while GM shows no remorse or responsibility. I didn't want to put that much into a 100k mile vehicle, so we did a band-aid approach by installing some $4.00 radiator sealer that plugged the porosity leak. It's been running great for over 20K miles with no leaks.You will get no help from GM on this one.
Good Luck
Arrie
Mr. Shiftright,
I think that is exactly what I said in items # 471 & 478. I specifically referenced Castech as the manufacturer of the cylinder heads listed in the service bulletin from ALLDATA.My disappointment on this issue is GM's position on repair and warranty. The problem seems to be fairly common if it is in a service bulletin and GM simply blows off their customers that are putting out some very serious money for an upper-end SUV. If Castech is putting out an inferior product, it would appear that GM would make them stand behind their product or find a better manufacturer of cylinder heads. The mechanic that got me to try the sealant could have taken the low road and told me the same thing that the GM dealer did, but he didn't. GM simply said, "sorry you have a problem", not taking into account they had sold me and others inferior cylinder heads. Their only suggestion was to replace the inferior parts they installed using my money for about $5,000.00 to $6,000.00. I own my own business as well and I don't treat my customers that way. By they way, the Castech cylinder heads showed up in certain Saab models as well, (reference # 471).
So I see your problem as having two dimensionis here: a) did in fact your Castech heads fail the inspection or did they exhibit no evidence of porosity and b) even if they did fail, GM is not under any legal obligation to assist you other than "good will"--which apparently they did to 1/2 the price.
I know it's disagreeable, but IMO the situation turned out better for you than it did for a lot of people.
If I may at least suggest this: that you consider the use you got out of the heads in terms of mileage and that in a sense you got a "pro-rate" deal.
Mr. Shiftright:
I don't want to argue semantics or even perspective with you, all I'm saying is if GM is installing an inferior part on any of their cars and trucks that has been giving problems for a number of years, they should address it.Take better care of the people that have supported them through good years as well as bad. GM is trading today @ $6.46 compared to a year ago @ $42.84, maybe they can't afford to address anything, but keeping the ship afloat. By they way, I would not consider $5,000.00 - $6,000.00 to repair a defective part a 50% discount. I was quoted less than 50% of that by another mechanic.
It seems reasonable to me that you'd have the outside mechanic fix the truck. You can't buy a substitute for $2,500.
____________________________________________________________________
You are correct. Maybe I am old fashioned but I don't consider cylinder heads on an engine a service item....they should last as long as the engine block other than valve guides, etc. The heads themselves should not have defective castings that lets water seep through the metal. How the hell does this stuff happen? And why does GM not step up to the plate and take care of business on this stuff? I have an '06 Suburban approaching the end of factory warranty and I am now looking into buying an extended warranty to cover the vehicle for another 4yrs/40,000 miles because of all the transmission failures, $1,000 fuel pump replacements, etc. occuring on these late model GM units. My last new Suburban was a '92 and when I sold it it had 160K miles on it...with original fuel pump, transmission, engine, etc. As they say "they don't build 'em like they used to". Nowdays it is all electronic gadgets, nice interiors, fancy wheels, etc. I want an SUV with bulletproof power train and fuel pumps that last the life of the vehicle. Probably asking way too much.
Can anyone think of any problems if I replace my rear bench seat with 2 bucket seats?
I have a 2003 Z71 Tahoe, so you know. (with 140,000 miles on it!)
Thanks!
Alex
I just brought my truck in for a checkup before the winter. Its been making an odd vibration from the front left wheel area, especially when I turn right at highway speeds (65-75mph). We'll see what they come up with. Any thoughts?
Long story short, I had the tie rods replaced, alligned the front end, replaced the water pump and will wait on the brake pads. I lifted the truck when I got it back and rotated the tires just for sh*ts and giggles. The vibration is gone and it drives like it did when I picked it up in 03.
A
I take care of my truck (regular maint, oil changes, tires, etc) but its really getting up there in miles. I just flipped 140,000 miles the other day and was wondering if I should start being more proactive about maintaining it, with such high mileage.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
A
belts
hoses
certain fluids that may need refreshing (brake, power steering, differential, coolant)
age of your battery (if it's the original, it's getting tired)
nut and bolt tightening of critical parts
complete safety check
Thanks for any help you can give me.
craig johnson
Thanks
It is stated there.
There is another fuse box under hood on left side.
Arrie
Found it and replaced the fuse. Back to normal now.
Thanks for the help.
Steve
Make sure you fill your radiator before driving, you don't want to run your vehicle after/while loosing fluid, you could overheat and ruin your engine. You may have already done damage if you ran 30 minutes after the light came on.
No 'lemon law' applies, you have this vehicle well beyond the warranty period, this repair is on you.
I did for mine as I had the said coolant leak, which is quite well explained in this forum under coolant leak.
It seems like there indeed is a major problem with engine heads with porosity leaks, which GM of course denies. After overheating my engine and pouring almost 2 gallons of antifreeze in it I found the coolant leak topic and there it was. I immediately got the Bar's leak fix and first it seemed to totally correct the issue. Later I learned that a leak still exists as I was still loosing coolant but very little compared to what happened first.
Read under the correct topic, it is all there.
Arrie
Unless the rotors are warped, scored heavily, or below minimum thickness, they shouldn't require turning.
reservoir needed to be topped off. But frankly one could pour a couple inches into it everytime you lifted the hood. And no they didnt say the rotors were warped, or scored. Only that the rear pads were worned down. Im surprised that the front pads werent worn instead of the back ones. I think my shop might have stung me. Its to bad, I used to think they were good guys.
If you have to add two inches to the recovery tank often, then you are losing coolant someplace besides seepage at the w/p. Did they do a pressure test?