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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
...chris
Regards,
Richard
Jim
We bought the truck brand new. No previous owner.
Has anyone heard of this happening a lot?
Is this every time you accelerate, or is it just the first time you get started in the morning after the truck has sat overnight? Some times brake pads stick a little, and move a bit when you start out and because the small amount of play they make a clunk as the fully release.
to whine. I took it to the local Lincoln dealer at 800 miles and they
had a service bulletin on it. Replaced the ring pinion gear.
It doesn't do it if I hold my foot on the brake and accelerate only when it starts moving. That kind of sounds brake related doesn't it.
Thanks, Richard
The following is my notes on this issue, I’m not sure what to do, I’m just keeping notes for now and I will drive the truck home today to see for myself what its doing.
--------------------------------------------
7-14-05 Dexter informed me that he brought his truck to a local dealer. Once he was there he informed the service writer (David) the vehicle recently started vibrating really bad between 60-70 when he hits a bump.
He said david informed him there is a TSB out on that problem and that he has had several in for the same problem.
I called david @ 1:00 he said the same thing and added that the sheriff office has three that has already been in his shop for the same thing. All three came in that the TSB said to check steering adjustments that they adjusted the lash in the steering box and that two of them keep complaining of the same problem.
He mentioned that its only on F-250 4x4 gas trucks and that ford is waiting on their engineering department to come up with a fix.
I asked about the TSB, that I looked on Alldata and the only one I seen that was even close was a shudder/vibration at acceleration. He said alldata isnt updated fast enough that it must have just came out. I asked what does it say, he said he will print it and fax to me. He put me on hold came back and said its no longer in the system that ford must have realized there was no current fix.
At this time the driver refuses to drive the truck and the dealer is not sure how long the truck will be downed in his yard.
7-18-05 called David, ask if he heard anything, he said nothing yet. I told him I will send someone to pick it up and I will drive it myself.
well good luck
jaime">link title
**Does anybody here works or has work for FORD (mechanic)before and can explain this flaw?Can ford just install an electric fan? Is ford doing this trick to save on compressors? What is going on?????
Thanks in advance
MG
He has had it to the dealer twice to correct the loss of control and vibration in the front end when going down a dirt road at 30 to 40 mph.
He also just about lost it on the highway at 65mph and nearly swerved off the road.
Jacked it up and got the wheels off the ground and can not find anything loose.
Taking it back to dealer today but has anyone else experienced front end problems and loss of control with this model?
I finally found a blown fuse #45, a 10amp mini and replaced it.
All fine until another rough road trip the next morning. Same routine.
Worked fine for a few days then blew twice in one morning on a smooth city street.
I checked under the vehicle to see if a loom was pinched anywhere, especially near the suspension.
I also checked the cab ceiling circuits and brake lights as I had just added a Confer rack to the top. All of those circuits seemed okay.
Any ideas on where to start a more detailed search or where to get a detailed electrical manual for this truck?
Thanks in advance,
Chuck
also there have been some discussion on vibration and such. i do know that the rear differential was causing some probs. i think that it has been such a prob that there is talk of a possible recall on them. i know that they are fixing them in my area free of charge. my bro has a 04 as well and he had his done. also he has had probs with his 4wheel drive system. i hope this helps a bit. any help would be appreciated. thanks.
Usually if the battery has been disconnected, it will take a few drive cycles for the OBD system to "re-learn" and once that happens, the emissions codes will be "ready".
The oil is visibly dripping from the plug with the allen wrench mating hole in it, located right behind the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper on the underside of the engine (near the front) and has coated the steer axle frame.
Ford ran a diesel leak diagnostic and replaced the CAM position sensor, and I was informed the ICP was not leaking after this repair. Well, the leak in the plug is still there.
Has anybody else had this problem? I'm pulling my hair out trying to get a resolution from the dealer and have fallen into the cycle, take it to Ford, Ford keeps it for 2-3 days and says the problem is fixed, and returns it still leaking. Going on 1 month and 3 visits to the shop.
Any ideas?
Cliff
Thanks
Dealers aren't cheap when this happens, I've heard them charging as much as $600-$700 to fix this and then to add insult to injury they charge you an "Environmental fee" to dispose of the gasoline. You can fix this yourself, but it's still gonna cost you
a bit of money, and fair amount of time.
You've obviously got to get the gas out of the tank. You're gonna have to get a bunch of 5 gallon gas containers to hold the fuel. Don't drain it onto the ground, you can blow yourself and the truck up. Don't dump it either. You can save the gas and run it in another vehicle or save it for your lawn mower.
You won't be able to siphon the tank out because our rigs have a "Rollover Valve" that prevents fuel from pouring out after an accident. It blocks a siphon hose. One way to drain the tank without dropping the heavy fuel tank: you can disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel pump, attach a piece of hose to the pump and run it into your gas cans. Turn on the key, the pump will run for about 20 seconds then you'll have to turn key off, then on again. Repeat as needed till empty. It's TEDIOUS, but will eventually empty the tank.
Put the fuel line back on. Now drain the fuel filter via the water separator valve. Add a few gallons of diesel to the tank. Pressurize the system, drain and cycle the key until only diesel is coming out. Now put a new fuel filter on it. Refill it with fresh DIESEL. Add a healthy dose of Diesel Fuel Lubricant to the tank. Run the truck and cross your fingers. After a few hundred miles I would change the fuel filter again.
My buddy did this a couple years ago and has had no problems down the road with injectors failing, but every truck and circumstance is different. Good luck and hope it works out in the cheapest way for you.
Have the truck towed to the dealer and explain what has happened. They will have to drop the tank as well as flush the fuel lines... you also need to have the injectors and pump checked.
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