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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
Rgs, JLH
The hesitant running after changing tanks could be caused by air in the line as the result of a faulty non-return valve, or an intermittant electrical fault in the changeover unit, switch, or the wiring in between.
My personal knowledge pertains to the '93 model but the basics should be the same. I think I'd start by checking the connections and maybe changing out the switch.
I have had several other people with similar trucks that have had this problem. The mechanic at the dealer stated it was occurring. Called Ford and they deny it is a problem. Apparantly the 2006 trucks have a better boot on them to prevent moisture intrusion.
Symptoms are that the truck starts running a little rough especially on excelleration and it get worse until the check engine light comes on. It runs rough due to misfire and finally looses the cylinder power for the effected coil.
Has anyone else replaced a coil in these trucks???
I guess I'm here for advice on solving this problem, Calling the BBB?, or dealing with the dealership that prusured me into purchasing the contract.
Any help would be appretiated.
Josh
If they're auto, you could have a small vaccuum leak going to the actuators - check the vaccuum hoses going to the hubs, one or more is probably brittle or cracked. If you don't find a problem there, start checking all the rest of the vaccuum hoses in the engine, a leak anywhere could affect vaccum pressure enough to prevent hubs from engaging.
For manual hubs, possibly grease could've dried up. With 4x4 you should engage hubs once every month or so to keep everything lubed. Had problem on old F150, engaged manual hubs, then backed up to make them lock, but just kept hearing a chattering noise. Needed a trip to a mechanic to get them working again; he's the one that told me exercise the 4x4 once a month.
Good luck with your repairs. & watch out for the deer!
When I push the automatic button, all the air goes to the defroster. When I push the panel/floor button all the air goes to the panel. I ran the on board diagnostic by pushing the floor and off button at the same time and then the automatic button as Chilton suggests. The diagnostic ran, but no codes showed up. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be or how to isolate the problem? You help would be appreciated. :confuse:
Any thoughts on causes?
In addition, the signal side mirrors have lost their "silver," and it is difficult to see out of them. This seems to be common as I have seen it on other F-150s.
Can the lenses be changed out, or will I have to replace the entire mirror assembly?
Thanks for your responses!
i"ve been battling with my dealor they don't want to doing anything about the problem there telling me it's an alignment problem I think the the tires just suck!
My fan seems to run if I don't shut off the climate selector when I turn the truck off.
Can anyone give me some suggestions? Thanks,
Mike
If your coolant level is falling, however, it could be a sign of head gasket leak into the engine. Not very likely at 12K miles.
UPDATE I have had my locks work as much as 10 times in a row and then they stop again, I hear a clicking from the VSModule that I have removed to inspect. I am thinking of buying a new one, doe's anyone know if you would have to have it programed for sure? Ford never gave me a clear answer one way or the other.Thanks
Thanks PwrStrokin
Dual fuel tank switch kills engine when switching to rear tank. (Both tanks are full)
Lost speedometer & odometer readings, Over drive light flashes,
On dash 4wd. switch, hi-low range lights come on 5 seconds after turning off.
I checked headlight switch & harness for shorts and didn't
find anything. (Suggested problem by auto electric tech.)
Thanks for any help.
Thanks
I read some info on sticky actuators and also that they may get dirt/rust in them but I think it was addressing the 1997-2000.
Checkout www.f150online.com/forums
Shaking: :lemon:
I bought a 2005 150 in August, in Sept. noticed a "shaking" pulling away from a car wash. Stopped the truck, applied emergency brake and released. Drove a bit with horrendous shaking. Applied same procedure, no result. Applied parking brake slightly while driving forward, shake worsened. Arrived at home and next day, no shaking. 1 month later my wife and family were driving the "mystery machine" and had to pull over - thinking they nad a flat tire. Checked tires, no flats, resumed travel - shake-shake-shake and then it stopped. Wife couldn't exactly describe the shake, so we drove together and I applied the emergency brake lightly and shake-shake-shake. No response or repair by service department as yet.
Ticking: :lemon:
The "gutless" 4.6L engine has a ticking noise after it warms up. Went to service at 1,000 miles. They told my wife that "All 4.6L engines do this." Have listened to several and they do not "All" do this. Seems to become noticable after warm-up indicating that a hydralic lifter is not retaining pressure, also notice a slight miss while the engine is ticking. Anyone else notice this ticking, rocker noise after warm up??
actuator assembley.I took it apart but my problem is i cant
get the actuator assembley to go slide in .Can anyone help or have good picture of the column and acuator
THANK YOU
Has anyone else had this issue? I haven't had back to the dealer yet.
Been there, done that, and got the T-shirt to prove it!!!!!
When I'm starting the control of 4 wheel drive won't blink and shifting from 2wd to 4wd-high or 4wd-low isn't working.
Solenoid motor is good when i get external power supply it's turning ,but i can't shift it form a 3-pos switch on the board. Has anyone know where are going cables from solenoid motor (2 cables orange and yellow )...
It appears to me to be the limited slip differential or posi-traction rear end. The posi-traction rear end has clutch plates that are engaged when going in a straight line. On road curves and sharp turns one side of the clutch pack should disengage to allow free wheeling on one side. I think the clutch pack is not operating properly. This was an old problem with the old posi-traction rear ends (1955-65) but the new stuff is not suppose to chatter around corners.
I plan to take it to the dealer for repair under warranty. Either an oil additive to help release the clutch pack causing the chatter problem or a new clutch pack. The "Rice Burners" do not have this problem. Could this be a "Secret Recall" item from Ford?