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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Thanks
Phil
The dealership came back and told the the whole rack and pinion system needs to be replaced. Acoording to wha the Ford Dealer told, the vibration is as you expected in your question I read. It will be interesting to see if this fixes the problem.
This is a GREAT Forum for usable advice.thanks
I have a 2005 F-150 XLT 4.6L 4x4 that seems to pull to the left a lot and to right sometimes. The steering feels scratchy/grinding off and on (started around 3500 miles) and the truck has been aligned 3 times and has only 4600 miles on it. I think I have started to notice the steering wheel vibrate/shimmy very slightly on the highway around 60-65 mph. I don't have a good feeling about this anymore. What do you think?? Any advice , etc?????
Thank you very much ,
Bill
You may want to check front lockouts. These are vacuum actuated, and prone to have the seals go out and back side of hub (I replaced my twice, lockouts went out both times because of rust). I now keep an eye on them ( I was slow to catch on). This can cause the lockouts to go out but I also had the vacuum lines get clogged with rust. I also replaced the shift motor once, but it sounds like its 'trying' to work. Are you sure its actually moving, and not binding up in transfer case.
I have '02 XLT FX4 SC/flareside. I noticed my parking brake wouldn't hold as well, plus I was hearing a "clicking" sound at low speeds. Dealer pulled rear DS/checked u-joints, said everything was fine. A few weeks later (and about 500 miles out of warranty), went to use parking brake and pedal went to floor with no resistance. Went home and discovered both cables were off. Could hardly move the mechanism on backing plate where cable loops over. Pulled both rotors and found the mechanism that spreads the shoes was seized, plus the friction material was in pieces (clicking sound I was hearing). Was ticked at dealer for not finding and didn't feel like fighting, so I tackled this myself.
It's two metal plates that scissor the shoes out, bottom plate has a small pin that goes thru top plate. I disassembled, greased and got new shoes at Autozone for $18. Discovered the adjusting screw was siezed and I couldn't get it loose, plus rotor would not fit over new shoes. The toothed portion is more like a bolt. Couldn't bust it loose with PB blaster or heat.
Went to dealer, can't get JUST that part. They only sell entire backing plate assembly ($150), but said since I only needed the adjuster, that maybe they could knock a few dollars off (gee, thanks).
Found the adjuster at Advance auto, but it was a special order and took two days to come in. They were $5 a piece.
Hope this is helpful to anyone with parking brake hang ups. I have a friend who had same problem with his Expedition.
What size truck? What size engine? What drivetrain?
thanks
Joe
Many thanks to Jackaggie for supplying the TSB(See message #'s 1838/1840). I offered the TSB to the Dealer but they were familiar with the problem. Now checking for any leaks at the rear end. Ford is trying to offer reliable trucks but has a ways to go.
My 1991 F150 XLT Lariat, usually very dependable, would not start yesterday. There was no inside light and the gauges did not work. I took battery and had tested and then replaced. The truck started and ran for 30 seconds and then died. I started a second time with same result. This morning I went out and tried to start. This time, no lights or movement of gauges. I crossed the cellenoid and no sparks. Looking forward to help from someone with more knowledge of trucks than I possess. Thank you. Mike
Absolutely not! Read back through this forum to see your story repeated over, and over, and over, and over again! :sick:
I pulled one plug and found that it wouldn't spark while the truck was cranking, but would spark just as I stopped turning the truck over. At one point it actually started with the plug out. When I replaced the plug it wouldn't fire.
I changed the ignition module and she fired up. I got about a half mile from the house only to have the truck die. I pulled over, stopped, turned the key and it fired off and I drove to work. One of the quick connects on the coil was loose so I tightened it up when I got to work.
The next day it did the same thing twice coming home. Then last night it died in the driveway and would not come back to life. I swapped the coil, ignition module, ignition switch, harness from the ignition module to the distributor, cleaned the cap and rotor - no life. I've got power to the coil, but no spark.
It was cold and snowing today so I decided not to pull the distributor which would be my next move. The engine only has about 40K on it so the distributor is pristine inside.
Anyone out there gone through this drill?
Thanks,
John
So far they have replaced the Rack & Seal steering system and the drive shaft. Now the truck rides much worse than before. I left the truck with them and said that I won't pick it up until it's fixed correctly. The service department is treating me like some idiot giving me all the excuses that I should return their loaner car and pick up my truck. My wife was dealt with in a rude manner by the service representative when they contacted her instead of myself. The proper paperwork is being sent registered mail today to Ford Motor Co., the dealership and VA Consumer Affairs. This is the only way to get closure on this issue.
Ford engineers know of this problem and still haven't developed a fix. Stay away from Ford F-150's.
You are correct about this problem not being repaired. My truck has been in the shop for 28 days as of today. It has already met 1 of 3 criteria for the Lemon law in the state of VA, and Thursday it will meet 2 of the 3 criteria. I don't plan on dealing with Ford anymore with this problem except on getting my $$$ back.
So far they have replaced the Rack & Seal steering system and the drive shaft. Now the truck rides much worse than before. I left the truck with them and said that I won't pick it up until it's fixed correctly. The service department is treating me like some idiot giving me all the excuses that I should return their loaner car and pick up my truck. My wife was dealt with in a rude manner by the service representative when they contacted her instead of myself. The proper paperwork is being sent registered mail today to Ford Motor Co., the dealership and VA Consumer Affairs. This is the only way to get closure on this issue.
Ford engineers know of this problem and still haven't developed a fix. Stay away from Ford F-150's.
For ten years I drove a 1995 Nissan V6 4X4 pickup and the truck was extremely reliable. Practically nothing went wrong in 10 years and A/C was blowing just as cold when I sold it as on the day I bought it. Never touched it in 10 years! Now I am worried that I too have made a mistake buying an American truck. Only time will tell.
I never had larger picup truck/SUV Continental tires, but if the quality control is the same as on the passenger car tires, they must be awful.
Cars.com
Ford has all this new found religion for new product but that religion does not include customer support for what is out there.sad,real sad.
Evidently, head is thin, so that only 4-5 threads of sparkplug do all the holding. Talking to service tech at my dealer, he said "they get a handful each year for the past few years." Some were on low mileage vehicles, others with a lot.
Boils down to having the plugs installed at proper torque setting. (Don't have my shop manual at hand so I don't remember what they spec for my 6.8L, V10) If they're too tight, plug could tear the threads in the head. Too loose and plug backs off. Either way it could spit the plug. When that happens many times the head can't be fixed with a Helicoil, etc., so it's $$$ to repair.
Plugs are good for 100K, but that doesn't mean that they shouldn't be inspected and retorqued during that time. Probably should be done as part of normal maintenance on these engines. I did mine at 30K miles, all was fine, but it's tedious on a V10.
Anyone have this problem before?
Any thoughts?
f150 extended cab, 351w, auto
I'm having had the exact problem with my 2004 F150 4x2. This morning hopped in the truck and no reverse gear, its in the shop now, 37,000 miles so I'm probably screwed. I'll let you know what the dealer says today,