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1. The clutch on the fan is bad and the fan is not running at the right speed
2. The radiator is clogged with corrosion and the coolant flow is restricted
3. The water pump impeller is worn and not circulating the coolant
When your not in stop and go traffic there's usually enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool with out the fan running fast. My gut feeling would be to look towards #1 first, based on your description. There's also an electric fan but it runs when the A/C is on to assist in cooling the condenser in front of the radiator.
I found it was easier to take the front seats out. For the 15-20 minutes it took it was worth it. The steering column didn't need to come out, just dropped to the floor. I wish I had removed to console also (bucket seats) since the center support for the dash has a bracket that gets in the way when trying to set the dash back in. It would have been easier to remove it but the console would have to come out to do it.
There's lots of connections to de mate. The lower nut that holds the plenum assembly is very difficult to get to, I removed the right front wheel and the wheel well plastic liner to get to it. It's right behind the right head (the transmission dipstick tube is also there) but it can be done. The expansion valve connected to the evaporator core needs to be removed before the plenum since it has a bracket attached that won't go through the firewall hole.
The new core was an aftermarket and is slightly different in shape. The tabs down in the bottom of the plenum housing had to be modified. The instructions said to remove them, but I used a Dremel tool and modified them just enough to get it to fit. I was concerned it would rattle around otherwise.
Since it's necessary to discharge the A/C I also replaced the evaporator core ( I was advised it's a good idea) but the old one was just like new. New receiver/drier also, but that's typical when opening up an A/C system anyway.
No trouble reconnecting the A/C parts (use new seals and o-rings) and pumping it down. I haven't been able to fully charge it yet since I ran out of time and it really isn't warm enough out to do it right anyway.
The hardest thing was getting the two support bars under the steering column back in. They look like they're an afterthought anyway. Those instructions I downloaded didn't say anything about them.........
This isn't a job for the faint of heart. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't have the tools and experience of having done it to other cars before. Overall it took me about 10-11 hours total.
Here is a summary of my repairs, and some pictures I took at the end. My fix is very similar to the one that ncdodgeowner did.
Oxygen sensor wiring and description of the problem:The pre-cat OEM O2 sensor from Mopar has four wires: Heater+ (black), Heater/Chassis Ground (black), Signal+ (blue), and Signal ground (white). These wires comprise two distinct circuits: the heater circuit and the sensor circuit.
The colors on the truck side are: Heater+ (Orange/Dark Green stripe), Heater Ground (solid black), Signal+ (Light Green/Red stripe), Signal Ground (Black/Blue stripe). Note that the signal+ color is different for other engine sizes (Tan/white for the 5.2L and 5.9L engines).
The power steering switch shares a common splice with the heater ground on the O2 sensor. This is the source of fluid contamination at the O2 sensor. However, the heater circuit is not impacted. PS fluid is not a great conductor. The heater circuit is low impedance already. PS fluid has too much resistance to prevent the heater from working. My repair strategy relies on this.
The sensor part of the circuit has a much higher impedance. The sensor works by producing a voltage between 0.1 V (lean) and 0.9 V (rich). However, this voltage isn't very strong, and must be terminated with a high impedance load: such as a digital voltmeter or the high impedance input into the PCM. According to a few articles I found, a load of 10k to 100k ohms would be enough to load down an O2 sensor. Although PS fluid isn't a great conductor, it has a low enough resistance to intefere with this high impedance circuit.
My fixes: I decided on a course of action that I was capable of implementing, and that was likely to prevent the problem from happening again. I couldn't raise the front of my durango up very high, so I wanted to minimize my work from underneath. I also incorporated what I though were the best ideas from the various solutions. Here is a summary of my strategy :
Replace power steering switch. Click here to see picture
Clean up wiring harness with electrical cleaner as best I could.
Cut and resolder PS switch wires. I decided that I wanted a solder splice blocking a future PS switch failure and fluid leak. So I cut the PS wires and respliced with the heat shrink butt connector. I could have tried this approach at the oxygen sensor, but it was easier to do this up top under the hood.
Install new Mopar OEM O2 sensor (PN 56028233AA). Cut the two signal wires (blue and white) and run them up to the PCM in a separate wiring harness.
Leave the two black heater wires on the new sensor intact. Connect to the existing connector on the truck to complete the heater circuit.
I purchased these materials: 10 ft of black corrugated harness tubing
18 gauge wire (needed 12 ft total, bought 40 ft). Recommend buying two different colors.
18 gauge sealed connectors (red). Click here to see picture
18 gauge, heat shrink butt connectors with solder ring inside. Click here to see picture
friction tape.
various gauges of heat shrink tubing.
heat gun (didn't already have one, this was $59)
I already owned everything else that I needed.
Here are the steps I followed to re-route the signal wires:
Install new O2 sensor.
Prepared signal harness by cutting 6' of corrugated tubing, and fed through two 18 gauge wires. I marked one wire to identify it. I should have just bought two different colors of wire.
From below the truck, I snaked my fish tape up to the top, following the transmission dipstick. From above, I taped my new harness to the fish tape, and then pulled the tape back through.
I cut the blue and white wires on the new O2 sensor close to the connector. I crimped on the red connectors and tried to seal them up with heat shrink tubing.
Crimped mating connectors to the wires in my harness and connected them.
Re-connected the gray sensor connector to the mating truck connector. That connector will continue to close the heater circuit.
Up top, I snaked my harness behing the jumbo wiring harness and attached with a zip tie.
Sliced open the cloth wrapping around the harness and located two light green/red wires. One is for the oxygen sensor, and the other is for the transmission.
Picked one wire via coin flip, and shaved a little insulation off it.
Disconnected the C1 connector on the PCM. The PCM has three big harnesses coming into it. C1 is the rearmost, black, connector.
Pin 24 on the C1 connector connects to the wire that we want. I measured continuity between pin 24 and the wire that I shaved. As luck would have it, I guessed wrong. So I taped up that wire and repeated with the other light green/red wire.
Once I had the O2 sensor wire identified, I cut it. I soldered the correct wire from my new harness to the cut wire that heads to the PCM, and sealed it up with heat shrink tubing. The other cut end is left open. I tucked it up into the harness.
Inside the jumbo harness are several black wires with a light blue stripe. These all connect to signal ground, so I a convenient picked one. I shaved a little insulation off, and soldered the sensor ground wire from my harness to it. Note that you cant cut this wire. Whatever is downstream needs to still be connected. I taped up this 3 way splice with electrical tape.
I taped up the jumbo harness with friction tape, and secured my new harness.
Reconnected the C1 connector to the PCM.
I wish I would have taken some pictures during my repairs. But in reality, nothing went as smoothly as my list makes it appear. I did a number of things wrong. I have attached pics of the final outcome.
PCM and harness view
View of splice at O2 sensor connector. Not a great pic.
PS: If you tap into the wrong light green/red wire, your truck will function. But the shift indicator for the transmission will behave goofy (all gears will illuminate in park and neutral), and your check engine light will come on with P0132 exactly 4 minutes after starting the vehicle. Don't ask me how I know this.
2WD or 4WD?
I don't know if this will help you, but it only takes a second to find out if there is air in your lines. Don't purge the line over grass, it will kill that section of your lawn.
I have experimented actually turning off the overdrive when this happens, and it seems to take care of it (there is still some very very sporatic hunting that goes on). I also experimented with letting cruise control take over the other day, and that seemed to elimintate it all together (that was for about the remaining 12 or so miles remaining on my daily commute. I'm going to try it again for as much of the commute as I can; 32 miles).
I noticed in some other posts, that some folks had the same situation but it was happening more with cruise control on.
Does anyone have any thoughts on my particular circumstances? Help!!!
I went out and purchased another coil pack from the dealership today and installed it. I let the engine run for about 5 minutes and the same thing happened.
Why is this happening? How do i fix the issue? Any info would be greatly appreciated cause i don't know too much about engine repair.
Thanks.
It wasn't recommended but I also removed the front seats for better access, and the fender liner on the right side to get to the nuts that hold the plenum on the firewall easier.
This is not a job for a beginner.
Thank you.
Thanks,
Raul L.
all it was was a upstream O2 sensor { the front one on the drivers side}
that took cake of the problem. i think the part at the parts store was only about $30.00 and it fix it.
have fun
PS- it is on the y pipe coming down off the engine on drivers side and the closest one to the front
First of all, I hope I've posted this in the correct section. Forgive me If I haven't. I'm ok with it being moved to its correct forum section if need be.
Anyways, I own a 2000 Dodge Durango. This car has been great to me since I purchased it used from a buddy just over a year ago. It's fulfilled its job quite well, while sparing me any headache. However, just yesterday my car overheated on me. When I got home I inspected its radiator and found that this part was to blame. It showed signs of leakage and a majority of the fins were severely bent. I know that replacement is my only option at this point, but before I do so, I'd like some advice. I've decided to purchase an aftermarket version online, but don't know which companies are reputable. I've found two that I particularly like but before I buy from one of them, I'd like some sort of verification that they are a legitimate business. I almost never buy anything online so I don't know how to spot a scam, and I can't afford to be scammed.
Has anyone dealt with either of the following companies and can verify that they are a legitimate company? The parts on each site match the OEM number of the part I need.. Thanks in advance.
http://www.radiatorspot.com/dodge/durango/radiators.html#MjAyNjY
or
http://www.acpartshouse.com/showitem.aspx?id=122312&googwd368916
Also, if the heater core is original I'd check it for leaks also.
hammer
PO304 Cyl 4 misfire
PO302
PO306
Replaced all 8 spark plugs and direct coils.
Still have the same error messages (302,304,306).
In addition to the PO302, 304, 306, I also have PO300, PO351, PO352 and PO135. Can you help?