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Lately I've noticed something interesting. I will be driving along at normal speeds, and on a fairly cold (40 degree) day. The temperature gauge will often fluctuate up to the high end of the temperature gauge (not in the red, but about 3/4 the way up the gauge.) but will then go back down after a bit, to normal. Then it will go back up again.
Is this something to worry about? Is this simply the fan coming on when the engine gets hot? Could there be a problem with the sensor that tells the fan to come on at a certain temperature? I just need to know since I will be going on a 1200 mile trip at the end of the month.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Matt.
Don't go on that trip without getting it checked out.
After driving home, I parked and left the engine on. The gauge went up to the high end of the thermostat as it usually did. I opened my door and popped the hood. Propped the hood up, and looked over the engine. The radiator fan was not running. I waited and watched for a couple minutes. No fan. I then went back, and the gauge said that the temperature was again in the normal zone. Odd.
Then I turned on the A/C. The air conditioner fan came on, and so did the radiator fan. The radiator fan would go on and off, while the air conditioner fan stayed on. Temperature stayed within normal range. I then turned off the A/C, and set the temperature right in the middle with a low fan setting. The temperature gauge didn't move. The radiator fan did not come on at any time while I had the A/C turned off. I turned off the car, and the radiator fan immediately came on.
So is this a bad thermostat, or something more severe? Thanks in advance for any replies. Sorry to keep bugging you guys! :P
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
U said EGR valve,piping,means??
whats the local name for it amongst the mechanics?
and i notoce on the streering there is a cruise and set accel button,what is it for,,i dont think its working,how am i to enable it back.
whats the best shock absorbers for this model- brand and the price each in RM since i am in malaysia.
As for the auto gear,,,every morning,when i first start the car,,when i set to reverse,it wont move....after abt 3 - 5 mins then only it starts reversing,als,,when on road,..exmple driving,,,at times the gear turm to like free but indicator is at d3 or 4,why,
any solution to this,?
The cruise control is on the steeering. That could be a problem with a fuse or the unit itself could have a bad control module. It would need diagnosis. If it is working, you just reach a certain highway speed and then press the "cruise" button and the car should maintain that speed without you touching the gas pedal. When you hit the brake pedal, it shuts off. Not sure this is very useful in Malaysia.
As for reverse gear, you should have the transmission oil changed and the transmission filter changed or cleaned, and see if that helps this problem. If not, then you have an internal leak in the hydraulic or a sticking valve, and this will require the transmission to be taken apart.
Is this a sign of a serious transmission problem, or could there be an easy fix (like adding some kind of fluid to transmission)?
Thanks a lot
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
Situation:
- Started the car up and got on my way to work. About 5 minutes into the drive, as I was stopping at a red light, the battery and oil indicators went on simultaneously (check engine did not). This behavior isn't described in the manual, but we obviously know what the lights mean separately. I turned the car off, then tried to start it again. It seemed to almost get running, but then quickly gave up. After that, cranks rapidly but no dice. Battery is new and OK.
- Tried starting with gas pedal half in, checked oil, tank was full up with gasoline. Cranks plenty, but still won't turn over, so I called for a tow. This took forever, so I poked around under the hood. Things looked OK, but I did take off the spark plug covers (didn't have tools, so left plugs in). In the third hole from the left, I found that the spark plug cover had a substantial amount of oil around the bottom, and I could see oil pooled around the spark plug that remained in the hole. There is oil in the car, but it's at the add line.
History, which I have no idea if is related:
- Recently, when it's cold and the car will start, the car starts fine. But when driving, it takes a lot of extra RPMs to get moving (low power when accelerating). For example, I have to rev up to 3k-4k RPM just to get 5-10 MPH, then it eventually shifts up. After it's been running for a while, it seems to run with an OK amount of power.
- It's also been doing another strange thing. If I'm making a bit of a short stop (i.e., the car jerks back a little bit after stopping), I notice something like a stutter. The RPMs seem to dip, and the electrical system may even slump, then it comes right back to normal in a second or two.
- The car has a known *exhaust* problem (cracks in the system, maybe from rust). It sounds really loud from the undercarriage.
- When opening the fuel tank cap after running down to nearly empty, I occasionally hear the brief sound of escaping or sucking of air (like a change of pressure in the fuel tank in either direction).
Any ideas? I have minimal tools, but this trusty car has served well, and I don't want to throw in the towel. I have virtually no money to invest in repairing it.
This is entirely normal. My 1996 and 2006 Accords both do this.
Sorry, I'm not much help on the other items.
TheGrad
When the car will not start, you need to figure out what is missing, spark or fuel. Next time it will not start, pump the accelerator a few times, remove a spark plug. Is the spark plug wet with fuel? If not, I would suspect either the fuel pump or the main (fuel pump) relay. If there is fuel on the spark plug, reconnect the wire to the plug, set it on top of the valve cover, and crank the engine, and check for spark at the end of the plug.
If you have any other questions about this, I will try to answer them. Good luck
Thanks for any and all feedback. I'm going to do all of this stuff this weekend, and I'll post updates. To be clear, the car won't start at all right now.
History:
- One thing I had meant to mention. The car used to do something strange after being started, driven for a very short distance, then stopped and put into park. The RPMs would fluctuate in a rythmic way, maybe from 1k to 2k. So from 1k to 2k to 1k would maybe take 2 seconds, and that would repeat. I never let it go for very long, because I found it disturbing. Driving it seemed to make it go away (if temporarily).
http://techauto.tripod.com/
It should simply slide up out of the holder. I don't think there are any screws or anything holding it down. Easy as pie.
It is Verrrry sluggish when it takes off , almost as if it bypasses 1st gear altogether . if we manually shift from , 1st gear it operates fine and the sluggishness isnt there
any help would be much appreciated ~
I checked the fuel pump, and it's working (I can hear it when tuning the ignition on, and I pulled the return line and gas pumps out when the ignition is turned on).
Then, I checked the spark, and it has spark.
I couldn't feel the injectors "fire" whine making a starting attempt, so I tried starting fluid- to no avail. :confuse:
I took it to a mechanic, and they said that they couldn't diagnose any further without replacing the distributor. There's no signal coming out of one of the sensors in the distributor apparently. They want $500 to do that, so I think I'm going to decline and try to do it myself. I did replace a distributor on my wife's Civic, and it wasn't hard. I also have a service manual, so I don't think it's going to be a problem.
Before I plunge down bucks on a new distributor, however, I'd like to hear if anyone has any other ideas that I should check first?
Thanks in advance.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
it was 2 hours ago ... i've looked thru page after page...any way to find it based on two hours ago
I really need that info to fix mine !
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
A mechanic says it's the ignition switch, but that's after he thought it was a battery connection.
Any suggestions or experience with this problem.
Thanks,
Tom
Sounds like you could use this link too. It has troubleshooting tips for most 4th gen Accords. It would be a good idea to save this link for the future.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
Tom
That definitely sounds like an ignition switch problem. If you start the engine, but don't let the key go all the way back, it may stay running. If so, the ignition switch is bad. I think you can change only the electrical part of the switch, and not have another key to carry around. Good luck
Thanks for your very useful responses.
Best regards,
Tom
The other said, it's a slow leak but someday it may suddenly let go and there goes your transmission. But, it's cheap to fix."
I said OK, fix it. Suddenly the entire radiator had to be replaced as part of the solution. Something about the transmission line connects to the bottom of the radiator and that's where there is some corrosion on the transmission line.
Am I getting a line, or does this sound plausible?
Thanks for any help understanding what's going on.
Regards,
Tom
I would think a professional could get the trans coolant line off without busting the radiator, but I could also see that plastic connection as being the failure mode itself.
Also, does anyone know of a link to step-by-step instructions with pictures? Thanks.