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I'm wondering why a business that makes money selling items to consumers is any more likely to be reliable than other members here? Surely a business would never attempt to steer a consumer to an item that has a higher profit margin than another... nah... I trust Tire Rack, but multiple opinions are generally useful.
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At the risk of sounding like a pole dancer, my OEM tires are Bridgestone Turanza EL41's. I've been very pleased with them but I'll still do some shopping when the time comes to replace them. I sure can't complain about how they've held up. And my gas mileage has been great too.
I remember reading the reviews on Tire Rack several months back and they were quite varied. I think the other OEM tires from Michelin were even rated a couple tenths of a point higher.
But who knows, those anonymous Tire Rack reviewers may have been borrowing their dad's computers too.
I understand that you may not find this Forum useful - there's no one-size-fits-all forum for every person, and it's almost impossible to diagnose a mechanical issue to perfection, every time, on a forum, or to give pricing estimates for every problem, fixed by every mechanic, in every area of the country. However, there are many instances in which this forum has saved others money or hassle. If you don't like the advice or appreciate the assistance in this forum, that's fine, but no one is welcome to stick around here and make posts for the express purpose of denigrating our other members.
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buying tires is diagnosing a a mechanical issue.? And are you reading me the riot act... I feel so special.... find your tires yet.... I believe 2 people including me said Bridgestone.. I said Potenza, he said Turanza.. case closed. we seem to both like Bridgestone. Is that enough for you aor are you waiting for the holy grail of tires.
Having said that, the OEM battery is a little small for us in the Northern Plains. I am in a small town and I do a lot of 1 mile trips or less. Real tough on a battery to constantly start a cold car and not get much time to charge. To make it worse it gets extremely hot in the summer and I have a dark colored car.
I replaced it with a group 35 from the V-6 to get a little more reserve. I am also avoiding the rear defroster as much as I can to help the battery charge faster in town.
Dealer didn't say anything though, so I guess it's not a big deal. I wasn't really worried for being so over. If my math is right, I was a bit under 8500 miles and in my old '04 accord, per the manual, you could go 10k miles in between oil changes - not even on synthetic oil.
I'm planning on doing a used oil analysis on the next oil change. I'm hoping to start doing my own oil changes soon and I would then get the oil myself.
As far as the inspections went, pretty much everything was fine:
- Interior/Exterior (headlights, interior lights, windshield wipers, parking brake, horn)
- Under hood (fluid levels: oil, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, windshield washer, automatic transmission), external drive belts and radiator hoses)
- under vehicle (brake lines/hoses/parking brake cable, shocks/suspension/tie rod ends and bolts/steering, exhaust, oil/fluid leaks, drive shaft boots/velocity boots and bands)
The tires are all fine at 7/32 all around (These are still the original tires - the car was bought new in late september 2010)
The brakes weren't looked at and there are no comments on the air filter and cabin air filter which is fine because I just changed them recently last september.
The big thing mentioned was the battery which is at a replace mark. They said replacement was highly recommended. They did a test on it and it was 12.75V 310 CCA.
I'll get into the battery more in my next post. I wanted to reply to that separate.
Regarding the other parts that I need to make this battery work with my '07 accord i4 , I believe you had mentioned the hold down, upper, and lower covers? You had mentioned the diagram here:
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?catalogID=65&productID- =5&yearID=38&doorID=4&gradeID=487&areaID=2&transmissionID=7&originID=-1&colorLab- elIDs=-1&colorLabelID=-1§ionID=5&idAndImageID=11980%20465815&isBigPicture=Fa- lse&pageName=Battery%20%28V6%29
Sorry if this is a dumb question but would you mind telling me which parts specifically I would need? There's a lot of items in the diagram. This will be my first time attempting to put in my own battery so I'm really not familiar
I can't get past the fact that if it was a defective SRS unit, why would it only cause a problem for the first few minutes when it is cold, and then consistently be fine after that? Any suggestions other than having it replaced?
Thanks much for any help!
The group 35 from the V-6 will fit with no mods if you remove the plastic battery covers. The top bracket will still hold the battery in place, but it is an awkward fit. It should probably be replaced and is part number 3. If you want to cover the battery you would need parts 5 and 6 or one of the two would offer some protection.
I have left mine as is so far. Too cold to work on the car right now - have not been above freezing in over a month.
But again, I've had no reason to question the maint/minder system.
Should I?
I do use syntheticc.
Told them I needed parts #3 (PLATE, BATTERY SETTING (70D)) , 5 (BOX, BATTERY (70D)) , and 6 (COVER, BATTERY).
At first he told me the price was going to be $80-something and that he had none of the parts in stock. But that was around double what I could have gotten from the hondapartsnow link. So he adjusted the price down to $54.93 total and that seemed fair. I'm not sure what shipping was for all the stuff I needed from hondapartsnow.com anyways.
Here's the breakdown of the parts I ordered, the cost at hondapartsnow.com and the price the dealer gave me:
#3) 31512-SDB-A01 PLATE, BATTERY SETTING (70D) USA 1 $6.87 $4.98
#5) 31521-SDB-A10 BOX, BATTERY (70D) USA 1 $21.90 $15.88
#6) 31531-SDB-A00 COVER, BATTERY USA 1 $23.05 $16.71
(It's funny, the price that's crossed out on the hondapartsnow.com website is the exact cost of the parts that the dealer went down to.)
Anyways, the parts will be here on Wednesday. I still haven't picked up the battery yet, plan to try and get tomorrow. Need to go through your posts dudleyr to finalize the other tools I need for this install. I hope to have the better battery securely installed in my wife's car by the weekend
My 2006 accord is doing the exact same thing. Were you able to determine what the problem is?
On my the next oil change I'll push the oil around the same amount as I've been doing and send in the oil for a used oil analysis. I'm guessing I've had 5 oil changes now, all at the dealer, and I believe each one was decently past the maintenance minder.
I mentioned this before - in my '04 accord i4, as per the manual, you could go 10k in between oil changes, 20k in between oil filter changes. In my '08 IS 350, the manual says 5k in between oil changes but many threads in forums for the car/oil say you can go 10k miles there too and be fine. That's why I've always never taken the maintenance minder seriously. I like set schedules.
I'm planning to start doing my own oil changes soon and would like to start using Mobil 1 synthetic (it's what I use in my '08 IS 350 and my '04 Accord i4). I just hadn't gotten around to start using it in the '07 Accord i4.
Anyone have any hands on experience with doing this? I stumbled across this thread on clublexus.com which involves DIY brake fluid change for the second generation Lexus IS. I'm planning on following the instructions on here to do the change myself on my '08 IS 350.
I did a search on brake fluid and found the following posts:
#5165 of 5566 Re: - [dudleyr] by elroy5
Feb 06, 2010 (7:34 pm)
Replying to: dudleyr (Feb 06, 2010 6:26 pm)
...and a hand -held vacuum pump is a one-time purchase.
could you elaborate a little bit on the hand-held vacuum pump (I assume used to suck out the current fluid). I was planning on just using a turkey baster
If you want to get real fancy, there are electirc machines designed for the job that shops use. That would make it a eal quick process, but probably not cost effective!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?s=c6dfe522d4e8366ab0582cc264c0af7f&p=44- 496896
http://shahryar.net/2011/01/30/installing-a-v6-battery-in-2007-i4-4-cylinder-acc- ord/
Hoping to do the install later today
Going to wait for the responses to my questions before I get started with the install, specifically on the need for the 32600-SDB-A00 CABLE ASSY and not the 31531-SDB-A00 COVER, BATTERY USA 1
Between your initial post here: and this post is all the information that someone needs to put a V6 battery in an i4 accord. thanks for all your help
Multi-Reflector Halogen Headlights: with Auto-off
I think the lights have been turning themselves off when I get out of the car in the past 5.5 years, but they may not be now and they may be draining the battery. Note that there is no Auto setting on the steering wheel light stem.
Hope that clarifies that statement.
Lambanlaa
I believe they stay on for about 30 seconds to a minute. I would suggest that you just wait outside your car and watch them. If they are still on after 5 minutes, something is wrong.