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Replaced the in-line filter first.no luck... Then the sparkplugs and wire..again no luck...then the distributor cap and rotor..yo guessed it no luck either. Like you I heard the pump come on when the key is inserted...so i dind't even bother to look at that. However, it was the fuel pump of all things.....
I found out after the vehicle left me stranded.... Save yourself the headaches and replace the fuel pump..Be sure and go with an oem one. Also if your gas cap is still the original one..replace that too... If it's getting old and the seal is no longer tight it will not allow the fuel system to build up pressure normaly.
91 Gmc Jimmy s-15, 4.3L throttle-body inj. 2 wd, 152K. Auto.
Car will start and runs great for 7-10 minutes. Then sputters and dies. Replaced plugs,
cap, rotor. Pulled in-line fuel line at t-body & it's pumping like crazy. Also...when it
dies, I can still see fuel squirting into the t-body. After it dies, I check for
fuel...plenty of fuel & plenty of spark> This makes no sense? I have spark /fuel, &
compression, yet it dies every 7-10 minutes.
Will not restart for 10 minutes or so...runs great agian for 7- 10 then the cycle returns!!
I did replace the fuel pump ,filter & pressure reg. @ T-body not to long ago. Whassup???
Thanks,
jon
I fixed it and here was the problem.
Quote:
check for any codes if you haven't already. It's an easy DIY on older GMs stuff:
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
The 12 code is just the computer saying hello. The code string starts and ends with 12, usually three times, with the faults in between, i.e. 12-12-12-34-34-34-42-42-42-12-12-12.
Lots of help here:
https://www.autozone.com/N,312755/in...cleSelect4.htm
Quote:
I then ran the codes .12-12-12-15-15-15-12-12-12
15=Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -27? F for 30 seconds after the engine has been running for at least 30 seconds.
Hmmm. replace the Coolant temperature sensor??
Put a new sensor in ($14.61 @ NAPA) and it ran for 35 minutes!!!!!!
Drove it last night with no problems
Thanks,
Kathy
EDIT: Should have been "there is gas in the oil"!!
Thanks,
Kathy
got in it just morning to sart it,turn the key on spun the starter tried to start at first.
then it just started to spin and would not fire up. sprayed ethier in it and poured gas in thru the throttle body but still would not fire up.any suggestions
symptoms:
-hard start in cold weather (5-10 attempts before start)
-won't start at all in really cold weather (like today!)
-marginal fuel economy
-marginal power
-intermittent sluggishness and stalling in warm/hot weather.(summer time) It will happen without warning and will fall on it's face so-to-speak and will drive under very little throttle/load but anything more than that will cause it to spudder.
-NO DTC CODES! :mad:
There is no pattern for these symptoms other than temperature. In the fall, when the temp was nice, it ran just fine.
What I have done:
-OEM fuel pump installed 11 months ago along with new filter
-Air filter, PCV, plugs, wires, cap, & rotor 5 months ago
-57 PSI at schrader valve with key on, engine off
-can hear relay
-Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner
I have read about replacing the spider assembly, getting the upgrade for it, throwing another pump in it..... all as ways of trying to fix it. I am a single college student. I can't afford to just keep throwing parts at it. Any other ideas that I havent thought of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
it sounds as if you have a problem with your
pressure somewhere the vortec v-6 needs at lest 60psi.
did you put a completely assemble fuel pump or just a pump
it sounds as if your fuel pump is leaking off after it sets awhile
www.automotiveforums.com there is severl post on there that mjght help explain it better.you can register for free ifyou want to post a question
I've got to the point that I'm assuming the fuel pump is faulty, and the fuel tank had just been filled; however, when trying to stick a siphon tube down the filler tube, but can't even get it wet - is there a screen preventing the siphon from going all the way into the tank? If so, how can I drain the tank other than shooting it with my .44 magnum?
Advice, help, etc., would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
RUNS FINE ( WHEN RUNNING ... ) STARTS FINE ON COLD DAYS BUT WILL NOT START AT ALL ON WET , DAMP MORNINGS ...
jonny
8-)
I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy which has been having some issues. For about a week I have been driving it with some RPM Issues. I finally made an appointment with the mech. when it died on me while I was driving.Unable to start back up. They replaced the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Fixed my no start problem but my RPM's are still fluctuating like mad! When the Mech. test drove it they didnt notice any problem. But as soon as I started it they where jumping. While driving it jerks a little while I accelerate and cruise. Has not stalled at all yet except for the one time when my Distributer cap was messed up. Any Ideas???
Thanks
I do know that when an engine "hunts" (RPM's fluctuates) , one "fix" is to tap on a sticky Idle Control Valve (ICV). Then remove it and clean it with the appropriate cleaner.
I don't know what your engine has, but it's ONE thing I know that causes "hunting".?
j.
My daughter drives the Jimmy and has complained about it stalling for weeks (maybe months). I finally drove it once and it did stop. Just as I was slowing down to make a left hand turn. It started right back up. When it stopped I did her a distinct buzzing that lasted maybe 3 seconds and sounded like it was coming from under the hood in the middle of the firewall.
We do have a check engine light condition. Code P0442. small leak / no flow condition. The car has been to the shop 3 times, first time "loose hoses", 2nd time, new gas cap, third time, replaced Evap vent value per a technical service bullentin. The light continues to come on. I reset it once at Autozone, it was back on later that day.
I am guessing I have two problems. From all the postings I think I have a ignition switch problem, or is it the harness that causes the stalls. Should I try replacing the ignition switch? btw, my daughter has a key chain with lots of "crap" hanging from it. Could the aggravate the problem? For now I told her to drive with just the single key in the ignition to see if that makes a difference. (Note: I was using her keys when it happened to me).
As for the check engine light, should I try replacing the vent solenoid? Is that solenoid on the purge tank behind the drivers side rear tire well?
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Engine cranks does not fire.
I replaced Cap and Rotor and fuel filter.
There is spark at the plugs.
I tried spraying carb cleaner into the intake and there was no firing.
Fuel Pressure to the CPI before start is 55 - 58 PSI. During cranking pressure falls to around 40. When I let off the starter the pressure spikes to 55 - 58. If I do not crank it I hear the pump relay click off and the pressure slowly drops to around 20 or so and stays there. Does this indicate a bad pump?
Thanks
I tried the carb cleaner thing again and got some response. It was trying to fire.
Vehicle info: 1994 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 CPI VIN code W stock condition AT
SES code 32....EGR. This is intermittent.
Thanks
not even sure if the jimmy has the same thing but the problem was (if i remember correctly) the ignition module. i remember it was a small black electonic module that sat on side of the distributor. easy replacement and fixed the problem.
I had the fuel pump replaced about 2 months ago... still having problems with starting after it gets hot... Mechanic just replaced the wiring harness for the iginition switch, and it starting throwing codes right and left... mechanic thinks the main computer brain for the Jimmy went out.. will post as we know more.. just wanted to give an update... Good Luck
My '91 jimmy would start and run until it got up to temp....then die and not restart until cool. I pulled the codes and it said something about the "temp. read -15 degrees" or something to that effect.
I replaced the temperature sending unit to the ECU (brain) and all is fine.
jon
1. Purge or vent solenoids defective
2. Check connector and wiring
3. Fuel Saturated vapor canister
4. Failed EVAP vent solenoid
They said it could be one of the above. My question is how much does replacing/repairing any of these costs? As you know, auto shops are charging anywhere from $49.99 - $89.99 to check to see why the "check engine light" is on. I don't want to be charged for that since I already know what the problem is. Also, they may try to incorporate that cost into the repairs anyway if they knew that I didn't know how much it costs to repair in the 1st place. I've been going online but still can't find assistance with costs.
Thanks, Sue