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Anyhow good luck with your new radio!
Goes in tomorrow am, will report in the pm.
I m really worried if this "4" position thing really hurt the engine or hopefully not at all. Please advice please.
thank you all very much
J.S
I even got paranoid after read my manual, especially when I start the engine, it makes a pretty loud noise than it was before. (when the engine warmed up, it goes quiet again) But it surely louder than before when it was new.
My RAV4 has a scratch - paint scrape on the interior of the cargo door on the vinyl/plastic part. I found some vinyl paints but I am not sure about the exact color match. The interior color code is FD13, which looks like a flat black or a medium charcoal -depending on the light. Is there any place I can find a color-matched paint or any other solution you guys know of? Toyota seems to have paint pens for the exterior but none for the interior...
Thanks in advance
If it is on any interior plastic,except on foam backed plastic dash boards ,there is a repair method that works. Unless the plastic has a very deep scratch this will work to hide,or in some cases eliminate the scuff or scratch. This will work with most theromplastic material.
Take a heat gun ,or propane torch ,and heat ONLY the scratched area. Be VERY careful not to hold it at the same spot. Wave the heat source over the scratched/scuffed area. The scratch in some cases will disappear . Only heat enough for the scratch to disappear,and not until the plastic gets shiny,as you are melting it then. Light colored plastics will yellow when heat applied,but darker colors will not. Do not touch the heated area because it will imprint whatever touches it,just let cool. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD ON PAINTED PLASTIC, ONLY MOLDED PLASTIC. Painted plastic should use touch up paint,and micro sand 600/1500 grit touched up area to blend in.
I use a propane torch with a pin point flame,quicker heat, narrower heat point,and easier to control . It's an old kayakers trick to clean up scratches on plastic boats.
As for protection I use 303 protectorant. Several applications give good scuff protection,and when applied to scuffs,will help hide them. Remove any protectorant before using heat method,as it will change color of heated area. Use rubbing alcohol to remove protectorant.
_________________
paraver
Thanks again for your help
Do you experts know where can I mail order one (Flint Mica color)in the States and how much will it cost?? :confuse:
Thanks.
Don't know if they need backing plate to attach them or if they have something other than the original system.
Make sure you order for 17-18" wheels. Price is about US $165.+ shipping. Email them for more info. Good luck.
Mine is a 2006. Good luck
Gil
Some people say that, in the long-term, 5W20 does not offer enough protection for the engine (since less viscous) and that car manuf use it only to improve their overall fuel consumption (since 5W20 offers slightly better fuel economy). Other people say new engine are tighter and requires a more "liquid" oil.
It's hard to judge but if I was you I would use 5W20 SYNTHETIC oil.
The tires are LOUD . The vehicle came with the optional 17 wheels.
Fuel mileage is 26- 28 which is fair considering all freeway driving on flat terrain.
Use 0-20 Mobil 1 and change every 5,000 miles.
BTW, the system is not very accurate - one of the tires was down to about 22-23 PSI (vs 29PSI normal) and the system did not come on. The newer direct sensor method (06 and later models) may be more accurate but also much more expensive long term.
The problem only occurs from time to time. I've noticed if I have not driven the car for couple of days, it works fine for up to a whole day.
I took it to the dealer and after ruling the electrical connections, they said it was the transmission. I then took it to another shop which said it was electrical (the check engine light had came on after the dealer visit) and replaced some solenoids but that didn't fix the problem. The check engine light came on again with the same error codes and replacing the solenoids a second time did not help.
Anyone experience this before? I don't want to spend any more money having people guess at what the problem is.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? Toyota is clueless... so they say.
For a purchase in the near future, I'm looking at a Rav4 and 2 other small SUVs (CR-V and Forester). The V6 Rav4 tops my list, but I read the threads on this forum about the droning noise and throttle lag issues. The reported problems seem to stop in Nov, however. Does anyone know if the issues have been resolved? Thanks.
The forester hasn't had such issues. And from what I've heard the CRV isn't doing too well this year either. Can be blamed on first year production, but it seems car makers are also having trouble into the 2nd year production cycle too. But that's what I'd do is to look more at the forester.
I can't believe your new RAV4 has this problem. My car is 12yrs old.
Thanks for all the responses. It is greatly appreciated.
To answer your question regarding the droning noise and throttle lag issues, I still have both. I have made 4-5 visits to the Toyota dealer where I have my 2006 V6 RAV4 serviced for the purpose of getting the droning noise diagnosed and eliminated and the noise has not been eliminated. After having replaced the fuel pump (that didn't work) and then on a different visit, the fuel pump assembly/housing, Toyota wanted to put a 4CYL fuel pump into my 6CYL RAV for diagnostic purposes (apparently the droning noise is not present in the 4CYL RAV4s) because the Toyota local tech rep said the engineers were stumped as far as coming up with a fix for the droning noise. They basically admitted to me that there is no fix on the horizon.
I have not even addressed the throttle lag issue because the droning noise has been so irritating that I've been concentrating on trying to get that fixed. I'm also having a problem with my JBL sound system in that the volume control knob only works intermittantly. There's also a rattling noise on the dashboard coming from the piece of plastic which surrounds the emergency flasher button and the driver's side visor also rattles - I think it's the mirror in the visor.
I have been wondering why the forum has not heard from the other folks who were experiencing the droning noise recently and the only answer I have been able to come up with is that maybe they have given up and just have decided to put up with it, but that is only conjecture on my part. Or maybe they requested relief under the Lemon Law, got that relief and were told to keep quiet as part of the settlement - Who knows.
I don't intend to give up until the droning issue with my vehicle is resolved one way or another.
I have been on the CRV forum checking out what people are saying about the 2007 and it seems that many of the first CRVs which came to the USA are having to have the rear differentials replaced - that doesn't inspire too much confidence in potential buyers. I have eliminated that vehicle from my list of possible replacements. The Forester seems to have no problems to speak of according to the forums and it handles quite nicely - The L.L. Bean model is nice and the Forester handles very well and is light on its feet.
Hope this helps. I will keep the forum posted.
I am continuing to pursue a solution and will not give up on the issue until it is resolved one way or another.
I suggest you ask the dealer to let you test-drive another one to check for the same condition. Call his bluff.
The only other "problem" I have is the same noise you have from around the hazard button to the right of the radio. That one is intermittent.
Apart from that, no complaints. I'm impressed with how solid the vehicle is overall. Too bad not everyone has had the same positive experience.
The braking assist system tries to determine if you are doing a panic, or severe braking stop, and actually jumps in and provides assistance to your foot in depressing the brake pedal.
You will often get more braking HP than you expected.
Not sure how it works, some say it responds to the rate at which you move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake, and others think it has to do with the rate at which you initially apply pressure to the brake pedal.
Maybe both...?
On the other hand do you mean that it feels as if the RAV4 just got bumped slightly from behind..?
Then in that case what you are probably feeling is 1, the O/D lockup clutch being released as you apply braking, or, 2, the upshifting of the transaxle as a result of a FULL lift-throttle event. Your RAV4 is FWD and therefore it can be somewhat dangerous in wintertime conditions to have engine compression braking on those front "drive" wheels.
If the roadbed happens to be slippery enough engine compression braking, even at the slightest level, can result in loss of directional control of your vehicle. The second issue, maybe even more important to your safety, is that engine compression braking can easily interfere with your anti-lock braking system and not allow the front wheels to turn freely even though the anti-lock system has fully released all braking pressure.